Hellcrate Swap!

[anlauto]

Okay...found the numbers....do you think that set-up will give an accurate reading with an aftermarket oil pan, or will it have to be calibrated you think ?

[Spikedog08]

Glad the new motor arrived quickly!  Great news!  Enjoying this thread!   

[Dmod1974]

Okay...found the numbers....do you think that set-up will give an accurate reading with an aftermarket oil pan, or will it have to be calibrated you think ?

I don't see why it wouldn't if using a stock throw crank and windage tray gasket, but I plan on verifying on my pan nonetheless.  The max oil level on any engine is set by keeping the oil level from coming too close to the crankshaft.  That distance doesn't change regardless of pan shape and depth, only the amount of oil to reach it does.

[anlauto]

Thank makes sense I guess if that tube was designed to go in the block in that location....

On my last 392 build I used the tube/stick in that location that came with the crate engine (designed to go in the pan) like you mentioned....it had to be calibrated   

I really like the look and location of this set-up

[anlauto]

@Dmod1974 I'd like to take the time again to thank you for doing the research and coming up with the dipstick/tube part numbers, I picked up mine yesterday and got everything in place today. Works fantastic with the TTI headers, no worries there... My project is only a  little 392, not the Hellcat....but it works great...thanks again...

[Dmod1974]

@Dmod1974 I'd like to take the time again to thank you for doing the research and coming up with the dipstick/tube part numbers, I picked up mine yesterday and got everything in place today. Works fantastic with the TTI headers, no worries there... My project is only a  little 392, not the Hellcat....but it works great...thanks again...

Awesome, I'm glad to hear it worked!  I'm still waiting on mine to ship since the main bolts and stud were on backorder.  Out of curiosity, did the exhaust stud have any kind of greenish yellow Loctite on it?  I noticed the factory Hellcat manifold bolts did.  Everyone says those stock bolts and gaskets are the best to use even with headers to prevent leaks.  If the stud doesn't come with any I'll just put some on myself I suppose.

[anlauto]

I actually never thought to reuse the factory gaskets and bolts (yes they had sealer on them) when installing the headers, so I didn't order the stud, only the tube and dipstick.....I used all the bolts and gaskets that were supplied by TTI

[Dmod1974]

I actually never thought to reuse the factory gaskets and bolts (yes they had sealer on them) when installing the headers, so I didn't order the stud, only the tube and dipstick.....I used all the bolts and gaskets that were supplied by TTI

Gotcha.  Well, I should know next week (hopefully).  I plan on reusing the factory gaskets since they came off perfect with no tears and the MLS layers still springy.  Not sure if I will reuse the bolts or order new OEM ones yet, but the late model Charger/Challenger guys swear by that combo to prevent header leaks.  They have a lot of issues with bolts coming loose and having leaks and the stock stuff actually seems to hold up the best so I plan on running that.

[anlauto]

Yea...I'm SO new to this game, and there's SO much to learn... I don't hang around any other forums except this one, so I really appreciate your input as well as others playing with these Gen III's

[Dmod1974]

My dipstick parts finally arrived and I got around to fitting the Stef's center sump oil pan.  Really nice fitting piece!









I clearanced the block for starter fitment, and had to grind the pickup tube flange a little bit to clear the shorter Hellcat timing cover.

I also installed a UPR catch can onto the engine.  I figure I might as well keep the intake tract oil free right out of the gate.  It has a mounting bracket with quick disconnect features and OE style PCV hose connections.





Next up: setting this beast down onto my powertrain dolly and dialing in the bellhousing (again) to the new engine block.  Fingers crossed I got my mounts welded in right when I did the mockup last spring with a junk engine block!

[Dmod1974]

I worked on this thing most of yesterday and finally got the engine set back down on the subframe along with dialing in the bellhousing again, installing the twin disc clutch, setting the CSC cushion distance, and stabbing the trans.  The trans was a bear to get lined up and I ended up installing it with the bellhousing bolted to the trans already.  After I did that it went in just fine.  Trying to line up the input shaft with two discs and the pilot bearing, finagle the CSC, spacers, and hydraulic line, compress it, and get the dowels lined up was just too much.

I'm probably going to use some 1/4" spacer plates between the motor mount brackets on the block to space the engine up a little more.  When I initially welded the mounts with the junk 5.7 block and truck pan I was paranoid about setting the engine too high for hood clearance, so I obviously went a little too low when I welded them in.  Raising it a hair will reduce the trimming I need to do on the oil filter adapter drip flange too.  That should keep me busy until the TTI headers arrive in the next month.  Then I get to see if I need the manual trans truck starter or can reuse my existing one.

This was after installing the adjustable dowels.  Spec is < .005", so I'm less than half that.  Should shift real smooth!


Installing the floater ring and 1st disc.  The inner disc MUST be loose and have play at this point.


Pressure plate and 2nd disc installed.  I always wiggle the alignment tool in a circle to ensure everything is centered before tightening the bolts down too much.

[Dmod1974]

The body shop is cranking away at my car again; I think it'll be done end of next month since they are currently sanding the build up primer before it gets final prime before paint.  As always with these swaps, more stumbling blocks.  I ended up having to cut out and reweld my mounts.  It sits higher now and I have plenty of clearance, though I hope the same can be said about my trans tunnel clearance to my Tremec Magnum, and my drivelines angles...

Anyways, I finally received my 2" TTI headers and got them installed.  I used factory Mopar gaskets and Loctite patch bolts since the late model guys swear by that combo.  Apparently most aftermarket bolts and gaskets are leak prone. 

They look and fit great, though I did find out that my old Mopar gear reduction starter doesn't play nice with them.  I ended up installing the late model Gen 3 hemi manual trans truck starter (P/N 56029274AA).  It fits perfectly!  I bought a brand new aftermarket one for like $75 shipped from Amazon.  The starter and solenoid are tucked up nicely to the block, and there is boatloads of clearance to the headers.  The motor has at least 2" clearance if not more, and the closest the starter comes to the pipes is still more than 1" at the mounting flange that isn't even heat damage susceptible to begin with.  I thought I got carried away with my block grinding, but it turned out that it was just enough to clear.










My wiring has just as much clearance too.  Some of the angles are deceiving, but the knock sensor wiring is over 1" at it's closest from touching the motor stud, and it's loomed in a way where it will not hit it.






Another fitment issue that I found is that if you are using the factory windage tray gasket like me, you have to trim off the front most large bolt hole at the back on the passenger side or it will touch the header.  This is one of the 4 large bolts that none of the aftermarket oil pans use to begin with, and the ones you'll have to trim off of the block on the driver's side.  I found that out after torquing it down and had to remove the header to trim it with a Dremel tool. 

Last gotcha and I think I'm finally caught up until the body comes back - you'll need O2 sensor harness extensions for the O2 sensors to reach the Mopar Performance harness connectors with long tube headers.  This is par for the course on late model stuff, but it totally slipped my mind and TTI had no notes about it either.  I have BBK P/N 1114 on order for about $70.  You can spend more, but they're literally just jumpers and already overpriced...

[Dmod1974]

Here are some videos I made on how to build a bench programming harness for the Gen 3 Hemi ECM's, as well as what I'm doing for electric cooling fan control.  I'm using HP Tuners and their MPVI2+ programming cable to change the cooling fan control temps and settings to a single 2-speed fan instead of the single fan control is configured for from Mopar Performance.  Naturally, this also required reworking the crate engine control harness.  It was a cheap and simple mod at least! 

Also, the O2 sensor extensions worked perfectly!

[RacerX]

@Dmod1974 I'd like to take the time again to thank you for doing the research and coming up with the dipstick/tube part numbers, I picked up mine yesterday and got everything in place today. Works fantastic with the TTI headers, no worries there... My project is only a  little 392, not the Hellcat....but it works great...thanks again...

I ordered this dipstick setup for my 6.4 and it fits nice and I like the out-of-the-way routing.

But...  it is very difficult to remove and re-insert the dipstick.   So much so that I am concerned that it will
get bent or kinked.

You guys notice any difficulty with the dipstick or do I have a dud?

[Dmod1974]

@Dmod1974 I'd like to take the time again to thank you for doing the research and coming up with the dipstick/tube part numbers, I picked up mine yesterday and got everything in place today. Works fantastic with the TTI headers, no worries there... My project is only a  little 392, not the Hellcat....but it works great...thanks again...

I ordered this dipstick setup for my 6.4 and it fits nice and I like the out-of-the-way routing.

But...  it is very difficult to remove and re-insert the dipstick.   So much so that I am concerned that it will
get bent or kinked.

You guys notice any difficulty with the dipstick or do I have a dud?

Mine was that way when it was bone dry but went away after I put oil in the engine and pulled it a few times.