Torque Wrench Recommendation

[Daveh]

Hey guys,

I'm looking for a new torque wrench recommendation .  I've always had a mechanical torque wrench but see that the accuracy and price point on digital torque wrenches is pretty good.  Anyone have any thoughts on either?  I'm thinking of sticking with the tried and true mechanical mainly because I don't have to worry about keeping the battery fresh and the times I use it have it corroded or dead.  What do you think?  Thanks

Dave

[kawahonda]

For a mechanical torque wrench, this is said to be the best one for the money. It's the OEM snap-on unit and is made in the USA. I LOVE the fact that you don't have to reset it each time because it isn't a spring type. The head can also swivel a little to allow you to get into tighter areas. It is the king of value IMO and is mechanic-grade.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC2FR100F-Wrench-Torque/dp/B000YOX568

Digital ones are all the rage these days. They however seem to outsmart me. I haven't really sat down and tried to read the instructions, but I probably should. I'm sure there's an easy way to set the torque value, and then it should buzz and play a sound when you're there. I only spent 5 minutes to fiddle with it, but couldn't figure it out. If you want to go digital, I will sell you this one at a discount. I think I used it one time before deciding I'd rather have a mechanical one:
https://www.amazon.com/Summit-Tools-BMS2-020CN-S-Adopter-0-74-14-75/dp/B07H35NFRS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Summit+Torque+wrench&qid=1561499776&s=automotive&sr=1-3

[RUNCHARGER]

I can't help you. I still use a 50 year old beam torque wrench for my finicky stuff. I do have a Snap-off click style I bought used though that I use on lugnuts and such.

[JH27N0B]

For a clicker type torque wrench, I was watching a YouTube video recently where a guy did a lab test of a Snap On versus a Harbor Freight premium brand called Icon, and the $99 Icon was as accurate as the the Snap On that costs over 3X as much.  I've had in mind buying an Icon torque wrench ever since, though truth be known, I use torque wrenches rarely enough I'm in no hurry.  I use my Craftsman beam style to torque lug nuts and haven't had much further need for one in recent times.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Once my Craftsman died a few tears ago... I've been using Harbor Hack's ..... no issues...

[kawahonda]

For a clicker type torque wrench, I was watching a YouTube video recently where a guy did a lab test of a Snap On versus a Harbor Freight premium brand called Icon, and the $99 Icon was as accurate as the the Snap On that costs over 3X as much.  I've had in mind buying an Icon torque wrench ever since, though truth be known, I use torque wrenches rarely enough I'm in no hurry.  I use my Craftsman beam style to torque lug nuts and haven't had much further need for one in recent times.

Careful with these though! While out of the box new they may perform great, the real question with torque wrenches is how long they last, and how long they can stay calibrated. For $99 for the HF brand one, why not just pay the extra $10 to get the OEM snap-on one?

I rock a harbor freight 1/4" torque wrench, only because I've had to use it once in the past 4 years. I don't really know how much I trust it anymore! In-fact, I believe it's starting to get a little finnicky, but I should verify.

My $100 Craftsman clicker failed after 6 years. It's a terrible design, pissed me off many times, and I never threw something away so hard before in the trash.

There are some harbor freight tools that are absolute most owns though. Maybe that's for a separate thread!

[rtgreen]

I have a few at work and needed one for home. went to a pawn shop. got a deal on a snap on one. then took it to a local place and had it calibrated for 50 bucks. worked out great

[RUNCHARGER]

Ha, ha: Before I bought my used Snap-On I purchased a click type from our local tool company that styles themselves after HF. I used it on Main Caps on an engine in the car (that's why I didn't use my Beam Style). I made a couple of pulls and that was all she wrote. Sure I got my money back but I like buying stuff I can depend on when I need it at 2AM on a Sunday.

[Katfish]

Beam type, most reliable and lowest priced.
You can get a Craftsman for <$20

The bending-beam torque wrenches are inherently more accurate than the click type and, unless the beam gets seriously corroded, will remain accurate forever or until the beam snaps.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Using basic craftsman clickers that I've had for years. Assembled the Hemi, differential, suspension, etc without issue.

[jimynick]

Beam type, most reliable and lowest priced.
You can get a Craftsman for <$20

The bending-beam torque wrenches are inherently more accurate than the click type and, unless the beam gets seriously corroded, will remain accurate forever or until the beam snaps.

Rick Erenburg had an article in a mag where he stated exactly that and he said that you can use one to check a clicker. You get a socket that fits both and lay the beamer on it's side with the handle on a piece of wood and set a given value in the clicker and crank one against the other observing where on the beamer that the clicker snaps. Pretty simple and I'll be checking my Dad's old Snap-On against it before too long. 

[Dakota]

Over the course of 10 years, I went through 2 Craftsman 1/2" drive torque wrenches.  In both cases, parts started falling off of them and there was no more "click" to be heard.  They are relatively inexpensive but turned out to be one of those "you get what you pay for" things.  I ended up buying several from Matco (they're based not far from where I live).   Maybe overkill for my needs, but I wanted something I could rely on.   I figure one of my sons will appreciate them some day.

[Racer Dave]

As mentioned, the old beam style is good because it never needs calibration. From an engineer's perspective, the elastic modulus of the steel beam will never change within the temperature range it will likely experience. The main cause of inaccuracy with these is parallax error from looking at the pointer and scale from an angle; and in some places you can't see the scale straight-on like you need to.

Click types are good where visibility is limited, but need calibration from time to time. To prolong calibration set the wrench to its lowest setting after use and during storage.

Dial-type are deemed the most accurate overall, but again you need to be able to see the dial as there is no audible cue that you've reached the desired torque. They are also the most expensive.

The chief benefit of digital is the ability to change measurement units easily, which is good if you work on both old-school and modern or import stuff.

For optimal accuracy use a torque wrench in the middle of it's range, maybe 10% away from the highest and lowest settings. That may mean owning more than one. And pay close attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding fastener lubrication, as this can make a huge difference in accuracy.

I have a bunch - from dial-type inch pounds for auto trans work to 1/2" drive click type for engine and rear axle work. My favorite brand currently is CDI, a division of Snap-on, without the Snap-on price.