Small block vs big block: Any handling differences ?

[ClarkWGrizwald]

Since the big block weighs more, is there a noticable difference in the handling characteristics between the 2?  If you were making a car to run a road course, would you avoid a big block for any handling reason? 

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

[Chryco Psycho]

You already know the answer removing 200 lbs has to help handling .
You can do it with alum blocks or heads with a big or small block . A stroker small block can be built into a killer as well .
There are a ton of other factors as well , chassis stiffening , spring rates , carbon fiber springs , shocks , sway bars & almost 50% of handling comes from tires & wheels alone !
How far do you want to go ?

[HP2]

I wouldn't necessarily avoid the big block but would step up rates to better support it. A 318 to 440 is about a 22% increase in weight. To step up wheel rates 22% would be going from .88 to 1.0 torsion bar. Going up from there in t-bar sizes will yield some improvements  in track handling but require a significant step up in shock capability to maintain street manners.

Above 1.0, t-bar options rapidly narrow.  1.06, 1.12, 1.18, 1.24 are all that's available in larger diameters.

You could, however, look at modular front sway bars as a means to better tuning front roll couple over using changes spring rates. Its also possible to build a greater range of leaf spring rates than it is to find t-bar variety. Mopars are a bit handicapped in that regard compared to our coil spring competition.

[dave73]

You can get a big block close to stock small block weight by going to aluminum heads, intake, water pump. But you could also do those same upgrades to a small block...

[RUNCHARGER]

Move the battery to the back and buy aluminum heads, WP and intake for the big block. You can do the same for a small block yes but big blocks are addicting.
I just like the easy torque of the big block along with the dry intake manifold, easily accessible oil pump, bigger exhaust studs, front mount distributor etc.

[Brads70]

I'm quite happy with how mine works....

[dave73]

I'll never not have a big block now. The 318 is a distant memory 

[ClarkWGrizwald]

Lol you guys are great!
Obviously i have pooch of a 318 and am going to upgrade. It will be an AAR clone body wise,  but it's a 74 so other than an AAR strobe stripe on a cuda and side exit exhaust, everything else is up for grabs. I dont plan to build 2 engines so right from the start, it's gonna be THE ONE. If a big block isnt an overwhelming pig in the handling department, then a big block is not off the table. Which kinda sucks because now I have more options! And big block is gonna cost more I'm sure. I'll need a trans either way so I guess that shouldn't count in the cost dept.  I certainly love the sound of a big block with a big cam and higher compression ...lope lope lope....lope. 
If I go small block I get to keep my A.C.!
big plus but adds weight and can reduce cooling. I will take it to the road course but just for fun.  Not looking to get into class racing or anything. Just like to find the weak links in my car. Road courses tend to do that for you. Like to use the car as an AAR was meant to be used. And if the car can handle well there, then it outta be great on the street.  And that's my goal. Look good, sound good, perform good.
I see these optima street car challenge cars that are resto mods and kick serious ass on the road course and the autocross-- would love that!! But probably too much $$$$ and a bit overkill for my needs. But they certainly fit my 3 criteria!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

[Chryco Psycho]

I agree with Sheldon
BIg Block rules , better engine design also ....  but everything has a cost weight wise
DO a 230 400 block to 451 & you have about the strongest engine you can build with a stock block ! Add Trick Flow heads , Street dom intake & about 900 cfm or better with EFI & you have a serious kick ass machine 

[ClarkWGrizwald]

I agree with Sheldon
BIg Block rules , better engine design also ....  but everything has a cost weight wise
DO a 230 400 block to 451 & you have about the strongest engine you can build with a stock block ! Add Trick Flow heads , Street dom intake & about 900 cfm or better with EFI & you have a serious kick ass machine 

A 230 400 block? Im New , whats that mean? I know the 400 blocks are beefy but not sure that 230 means.

I do have a precision  76mm turbo on the shelf..... :-) maybe a blow thru carb setup would be fun!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

[Chryco Psycho]

230 casting , 71-72,  Strongest factory  block
If I get around to doing Turbos I will use multiport EFI

[RUNCHARGER]

If you keep the A/C you can shed weight using a Sanden compressor and brackets. A big block will cost about the same or maybe less than a small block to work over.

[Wayne]

I would really consider a low deck 400 block.  They are about 60 lbs less than a 440 block when built.  You can get plenty of cubes if you stroke it.  With aluminum heads, intake, water pump and housing it will weight about the same as an iron head s/b

But if your goal is 450 or hp that can be done easily with a s/b and weigh less if you put aluminum heads on it.