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Steering column parts list?

Started by challenger3406pk, December 19, 2021, 07:11:33 AM

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challenger3406pk

I know Cody did some great videos on steering column restoration. Is there a list somewhere  of all the parts needed? I want to order them all and have them ready for the rebuild.
THANKS!

anlauto

I usually replace the ignition switch, signal switch, lower column bearing/bushing/seal.....whatever they call it... the foam gasket, and a coupler rebuild kit....that's about it  :dunno:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

challenger3406pk

Is there a list of part numbers so I can search for them? I already have an NOS ignition switch. As far as the turn signal switch, being a 73, do you know what number I need, or will the repros work?


anlauto

Most people will tell you when it comes to the electrical switches, you can't beat original Mopar parts, either used or NOS if you can find them, but if you can't....

OER now offers a signal light switch now
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

70 Top Banana

I don't know of a list at hand but if you Google "Ebody steering column rebuild" you will see all the videos Cody did and it will walk you through the rebuild, tell you the parts he replaced and where to get them.

Good luck!

R/T's 4 R/P

I realize this is a little bit older posting but because I am working on another steering column I thought I would tag on and add a few details.
Above was asked about a complete list of items needed for a rebuild. Here's what I came up with:
- Firewall gasket from DMT
- lockout seal/O-ring from DMT pn 360638116312
- the white nylon bearing for the lockout tube and clip from DMT
- The upper bearing and seal- looks like DMT also sells these. (a few years ago I got that bearing from Roseville and there were few Mopar bearings left)
- lockout tube foam seal from DMT
- turn signal switch available from various aftermarket and member "slotts" rebuilds them
- The lockout tube arm Grommet and sleeve is available through and ebay store. Does anybody know who the supplier is?
- ignition key lock
- Key cylinder
- turn signal arm from Tony's parts
- coupler rebuild kit and seal from Roseville, part number 4443436AC+741

Obviously there's the painting and refinishing.

What is the expected lifespan on an ignition switch? I've never had one go.  I question whether they need to be replaced.

I know that there are Mopar original turn signal switches from the 70s/80s that have additional wires and that were retrofit parts, but don't have all of the related part numbers.
Can original turn signal switches be merged with newer/ aftermarket parts?
My original switch is still good so I am thinking of using it. Is there a way to test them out of the car?

Do key buzzer switches wear out? I'm planning on reusing mine.
70 R/T 440 6 Pack
70 T/A
70 SE R/T 383
2015 SRT

tparker

I bought a new turn signal switch and it is dodgy. ooh, is that a pun? It isn't very solid when you engage the single, but the worst part was the spring wire in the back didn't make proper contact. The spring routes the electricity when the hazards are turned on. I had to tear apart the column a bit to pull it out and bend them back a bit to make contact. It wasn't obvious there was a problem. I would check turn signal and hazard functionality before buttoning everything back up if possible. Else kept that in the back of your mind incase you have a problem and are troubleshooting.


fc7cuda

Quote from: R/T's 4 R/P on January 03, 2023, 04:46:29 PM
I realize this is a little bit older posting but because I am working on another steering column I thought I would tag on and add a few details.
Above was asked about a complete list of items needed for a rebuild. Here's what I came up with:
- Firewall gasket from DMT
- lockout seal/O-ring from DMT pn 360638116312
- the white nylon bearing for the lockout tube and clip from DMT
- The upper bearing and seal- looks like DMT also sells these. (a few years ago I got that bearing from Roseville and there were few Mopar bearings left)
- lockout tube foam seal from DMT
- turn signal switch available from various aftermarket and member "slotts" rebuilds them
- The lockout tube arm Grommet and sleeve is available through and ebay store. Does anybody know who the supplier is?
- ignition key lock
- Key cylinder
- turn signal arm from Tony's parts
- coupler rebuild kit and seal from Roseville, part number 4443436AC+741

Obviously there's the painting and refinishing.

What is the expected lifespan on an ignition switch? I've never had one go.  I question whether they need to be replaced.

I know that there are Mopar original turn signal switches from the 70s/80s that have additional wires and that were retrofit parts, but don't have all of the related part numbers.
Can original turn signal switches be merged with newer/ aftermarket parts?
My original switch is still good so I am thinking of using it. Is there a way to test them out of the car?

Do key buzzer switches wear out? I'm planning on reusing mine.

Thanks for adding to this post.   :bigthumb:

Jay Bee

Quote from: R/T's 4 R/P on January 03, 2023, 04:46:29 PM

What is the expected lifespan on an ignition switch? I've never had one go.  I question whether they need to be replaced.

I know that there are Mopar original turn signal switches from the 70s/80s that have additional wires and that were retrofit parts, but don't have all of the related part numbers.

Do key buzzer switches wear out? I'm planning on reusing mine.

After 51 years the key-in buzzer actuating lever broke on my ignition switch (just sayin'). The switch still worked otherwise but the brass tumbler pins do wear with time. Also I don't care for the fact that ALL the repops are shiny chrome.

2947905 - 1970 E body only
2947509 - 1970 A & B body
2947503 - 1970 w/cornering lights (that's the extra wires). I'm sure it's NOT referencing fender mounted turn signals, I have those and the "905" switch and everything works fine. My "guess" is it's for C bodies.

My original 1970 key-in buzzer switch still works 100% fine and I couldn't find any noticeable wear on it. Obviously you should still inspect yours.