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1970 Barracuda Reanimated.

Started by Marty, December 13, 2020, 04:02:31 AM

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Marty

The bumper brackets finally relented, and the bumper was reinstalled :banana:

dodj

Looking good Marty. My favourite restoration thread. I don't post in it often...but I'm watching.... :bigthumb:
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Marty

Quite a compliment. Thank you.


Marty

Removed the rear and the leaf springs for paint.

Marty

#154
It's obvious that this rear is not OE but it fits the bill for the final product. Just the same here's some light info that I found out about it in case anyone was curious.  :dunno:

603717-12
Dana 60.
Traction lock/4.10 (Will change to 3.54.)
1976-1977 Ford F-250 3/4 Ton.
4x2 pickup.

MoparCarGuy

She's a beaut, Clark!
Following intently.

Marty



larry4406

Quote from: Marty on April 27, 2022, 03:44:02 AM
It's obvious that this rear is not OE but it fits the bill for the final product. Just the same here's some light info that I found out about it in case anyone was curious.  :dunno:

603717-12
Dana 60.
Traction lock/4.10 (Now has a 3.54.)
1976-1977 Ford F-250 3/4 Ton.
4x2 pickup.

I like the rear discs!  Any details on them?

Marty

Sorry, I have no info on them. They were already installed on the axle housing when I bought the car. I see now they're missing a few items. I'm going to have to match up some brake parts now to make them functional.

Marty

Now for some Spring cleaning. :smile:

Applied some paint stripper to the leaf springs to remove the manufacturer's paint that is used for rust control. Once applied, I wrapped them in painter's plastic so that the  :thumbdown: EPA-approved stripper will work better and let them sit for a day or so.

The stripper did ok. I removed the softened paint using razorblades, wire brush, red scuff pad, and lacquer thinner. A nice surprise is that these are like new leaf springs. The bushings are pliable and are in really nice shape. I decided to keep the natural finish of the springs instead of painting them. I could clearcoat them using an adhesive promoter, but due to friction and flex, I don't think it would last. Using a flex additive is out. Flex additive is temporary (30 days) and is used for the assembly of parts only.

I decided to use RPM. Rust Prevention Magic. I cleaned the springs with Acetone first. Used a heat gun set on high and worked the wax per instructions. It applied easily enough. I liked the way it looks on the steel. It just darkened it a bit. I'm good with it.

I had to pay attention to where my hand was, it was easy to get it in front of the heat gun now and then. I scorched a couple of chip brushes too. Once I got a routine down, it was all good.



1) Wrapped with stripper. 2) Natural finish.  3) Top w/o RPM. Bottom w/RPM. 4) Completed w/RPM.

soundcontrol

They look nice like that!
Should anything be done to prevent rust in between the blades?
Thinking some thin oil, or maybe WD40, or similar.


dodj

I believe RPM needs to reapplied from time to time?
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Marty

Quote from: soundcontrol on May 02, 2022, 12:34:11 PM
They look nice like that!
Should anything be done to prevent rust in between the blades?
Thinking some thin oil, or maybe WD40, or similar.

:iagree:

I wouldn't think there's not much you can do to prevent rust in between the blades due to the constant friction going on while driving. Most anything you apply (disassembled to apply of course) would eventually be worn off. I applied the RPM thicker along the sides of the spring pack to seal up the blades but other than that...  :dunno: Fortunately, these cars are cared for so much better now I don't think it'll be much of an issue as it was in the '70s,80's and so on.

Marty

#163
Quote from: dodj on May 02, 2022, 04:17:00 PM
I believe RPM needs to reapplied from time to time?

I read that it should last up to a year before reapplication. It's so easy to apply, that it probably wouldn't hurt to touch up the springs once they're installed. I barely put a dent in the 4 oz I have.

Marty

Cleaned off the housing by removing junk paint. There was a bit of oil on the bottom to clean off but that was it as far as gunk. It was good to see that all the gear oil that was leaking out has been fresh and clean.

Once the casing was presentable, I reinstalled the calipers so that I could line everything up to weld on the hose brackets, fit the brake line and flare them.

Shortly I'll do a heavy prep and refinish the brake parts and housing.