69 Barracuda Fastback G3 Hemi Father Son Project

[cudaragtop]

Something like this?

[Chryco Psycho]

Yup except in my case the master was below the Calipers so I needed residual valves to keep fluid in the calipers at all ,
If you remove the brass inserts in a stock master with a drywall screw & vice grips the residual valve is behind the brass insert [flare]
Disc need 2 lb , drum need 10 lb so be aware of that also

[cudaragtop]

Today's progress report. Actually feels like progress!
Rear end bolted up. 14" rallye wheels I have for rollers don't fit with rear calipers. 
Had to put the 17s on.
A little touch up paint on the springs in the family room first.

[Bullitt-]

Looking fantastic Randy     

[GCragtop]

Looks very nice. 

[anlauto]

Rear end looks fantastic in there, but why is it going back together before paint ? Is this just a mock-up stage?

[bluespruce]

Looking good

[cudaragtop]

Rear end looks fantastic in there, but why is it going back together before paint ? Is this just a mock-up stage?

My thoughts are to get the drivetrain and engine bay fitted together before paint. From the radiator, 6.1, front accessories, Vintage Air, 727, GVOD, to rear. Lots of test fitting expected. None of it was ever in this car. Would be different if I already knew it all fits without modification.
Will go to final paint after I know everything fits. May have the engine in and out a couple times before then.
Not sure if I will paint with the engine in or out...  Will discuss with my painter. Overspray sucks but removal and re-installation sucks too.
The full rear assembled is only 12 bolts to drop. 8 bolts to put the dolly wheels back on.

What does everyone else do?

[Shane Kelley]

"What does everyone else do?"

People who do quality builds do what your doing. Do a complete build then tear it all apart for paint. The final install go go fast once it's painted. I would recommend painting without anything in it. As you said "overspray sucks" and it's damn near impossible to prevent 100% and the places it creeps is always the hardest to get to. Your building a incredible car. What's another 100 hours at this point?

Hacks will build the body and paint the car. Then butcher their way through the rest of the build.

Retro fitting modern drive train into a existing finished car is a different story. You just have to deal with what's there and do the best you can.

[1 Wild R/T]

Every time you apply there brakes the calipers move slightly but also you need to be able to remove the calipers to service the brakes

[Cuda Cody]

It's looking fantastic!!!     Nice job so far.   

[anlauto]

"What does everyone else do?"

People who do quality builds do what your doing. Do a complete build then tear it all apart for paint. The final install go go fast once it's painted. I would recommend painting without anything in it. As you said "overspray sucks" and it's damn near impossible to prevent 100% and the places it creeps is always the hardest to get to. Your building a incredible car. What's another 100 hours at this point?

Hacks will build the body and paint the car. Then butcher their way through the rest of the build.

Retro fitting modern drive train into a existing finished car is a different story. You just have to deal with what's there and do the best you can.

Totally agree...you've got the right plan....

[cudaragtop]

So, long time no update... I do most of  my project updates on FABO and it's a bit time consuming to update in multiple threads but wanted to bring this thread up to date.
I put a pretty long semi-holding pattern on this while I played with the Go-Mango 70 Challenger which I recently sold so now I'm back into the 69 Barracuda mode once again.

So going back a bit to fill in some blank space...

September 2018
Wanted to use Jeep SRT Manifolds but they didn't quite clear the steering so TTi Headers instead. Love how they look and fit.
TTi Thermal Lined with polished ceramic coating. They look even better in person.
Going to change out the rubber mounts with Poly-Locs and still may end up shimming/adjusting the position on the K-Member.
09-10 5.7 Jeep manifold left.





Feb 2019
Not much progress lately. Cold in my outdoor shop. Got a little more progress on the engine, QA1 K-Member, 727, Headers, Starter, Steering and Suspension parts test fitted.
Then came Snowmageddon...



My engine is under the patio cover covered with a plastic bag on the right side.
My other outdoor shop since the garage has a Cuda and Challenger already in it...
14" on the patio cover in this picture. Received close to 2' total in 2 weeks.
It's all melting now.





Also Feb 2019
Been working on the Gauge cluster. Needed to make the 5" holes into 4.5" holes...
Bought a couple small 1/8" sheets of ABS and used my router to cut discs to fill the opening and fit to the back of the cluster. Used a rabbit bit to put a step into 2 discs glued together for additional thickness then used a roundover bit to roundover the back side to give it a soft curve. ABS cemented the discs in place and test fit all the Speed Hut Gauges.

Before:


Original Dash Frame was too rusty. This one from Wildcat was better but still needed some work.




Close up of one of the rings I made to make the gauge hole smaller for the Speed Hut Speedo and Tach.

[cudaragtop]

July 2019

Eliminated the "Clock Springs" for the hood hinges.
Modified the existing hinges for Gas Struts.

One of the original springs broke and the hinges were very sloppy causing them to rub against the painted surface of the fenders as they would bow outward...
Ever heard one of these compressed springs let go? I have, you don't want to be anywhere near one when they do.

I drilled and through bolted the bottom brackets with the 10mm ball studs on them and installed a ball stud in the hole where the rivet was drilled out to removes the factory springs.
Very happy with how well they work.
Quiet, smooth, no deflection at all and nothing holding the hinges on yet. Just bolted to the hood and slid the hinges over the pivot/posts on the body.
The lower mounting points in the corners and the ball stud on the hinge have zero flex or twist under load. Thought I would need bushings on the pivot/posts to prevent deflection but looks like that won't be needed. Just the stock keepers that slide on over the posts will keep them secure...



I have since moved up to 200# struts... Started with 150, then 180 and now 200... may go up to 220lb. but keeping the 200 for now.
Will see after installing the hood insulation and hardware...

[cudaragtop]

September 2019

Belt Routing
One of these is the way March Performance says to route the Belt and the other is the alternative I routed it. I think both will work. Called March and they say there has not been any issues with their routing. They did extensive testing.
I may try both after I see how it fits in with everything else the engine bay.
Hmmm...



Ordered another idler for the top center. Will have to drill a hole and tap it for the additional idler.
I will route the belt under the new center top idler to shorten the long span on top.
Less likely to flap or jump off the alternator while bringing the belt down and more out of the way and less of a human hazard... Looks I'll have to order yet another belt...




And the winner is...
This is what I ended up with after drilling, tapping and installing an additional idler pulley to the center for the top span to shorten the span and pull the belt down and more out of the way.
By far the most contact area on each drive pulley with this routing.

There will be no belt slippage or belt flapping here.