71' Gran Coup Gen III

[CudaA39]

Decided to create a YouTube channel with my buddy Dan to help document some of my progress.  At the very least it'll help document the build for my kids one day.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTus_wQu8POADHEeJNJp2nr4NMHEyB9EK

[CudaA39]

Finally got another opportunity to make some headway.  Installed the Wilwood master cylinder and proportioning valve by ways of an AR Engineering adaptor plate.

I was able to find all of the original parts (master, distribution block, lines, stiffening plate, all fasteners) but didn't want to attempt a rebuild on the master.  I had a basic two bolt aluminum unit with the plastic reservoir on my Coronet and it never sealed right and was always damp.  I didn't want a repeat so I upgraded to the Wilwood with the bolt on lid.  It's significantly lighter and should work well to compliment the front brake setup.

I was surprised to see how little room was left between the proportioning valve and the fenderwell.  I'll have to do some custom bending from the distribution block to the valve but it shouldn't be and issue with the engine out.  However, I was disappointed with the bad the "Right Stuff" lines fit for the other sections.  I added Wilwood flex lines to the calipers so the front is pretty much done.

Next up will be finishing the power steering install.

[ec_co]

However, I was disappointed with the bad the "Right Stuff" lines fit for the other sections. 

can you elaborate the issue?

[JpRngr]

So, don't know if it'd help or not, but Wilwood has a brake line kit to mount the proportioning valve on the other side of the master. May make things fit better. Did on mine with hydro-boost.

Corey

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I was surprised to see how little room was left between the proportioning valve and the fenderwell.

That section is extremely tight on my car as well


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[CudaA39]

However, I was disappointed with the bad the "Right Stuff" lines fit for the other sections. 

can you elaborate the issue?

Neither caliper lines were close.  The firewall line was short on the passenger well side, and was probably 18" off on the distribution block side, requiring some significant messaging.  The driver side front was also short on the well side and long on the block side.  After talking with others about their results from other companies, I decided to send it back and get in touch with another vendor.  The lines on my car were OE and I knew when they came outta the box something was wrong.  Pics below, I don't know why some of my pics are 90* out.

I was surprised to see how little room was left between the proportioning valve and the fenderwell.

That section is extremely tight on my car as well


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Yeah, it's tight but I'd rather it be to keep it outta the way.  The knob is still very accessible, so I'd actually consider it a perfect situation pending the short lines go smoothly.  I posted a video in YouTube that gives a better idea of the clearance.  I could use some short flex lines but would rather not

Goody, I stumbed upon your FB swap page and was glad I did because much of my build, aside from some suspension and transmission parts, will be similar to yours.  Gave me a great guide to follow.

[CudaA39]

After looking at various power steering options, I decided to go a fairly common route of using a GM type 2 pump.  I had the original pump from the 6.4, but noone at Mopar could tell me what the psi or GPM was and I dont want to risk damage to the Borgenson unit.  I know many have used these pumps successfully, but being that this came off of a 5500, I wasn't sure if the vanes or governor were different.  Mopar couldn't even tell me what their crate motor pumps were rated at. 

The install was delayed because I couldn't decide what pump I wanted to go with.  I was weary of aftermarket plastic reservoirs outta fear they would eventually crack.  Thanks to 90racing.com, a local high performance parts vendor, I decided to go with a Jones Racing Products pump and their tig welded reservoir.  I was worried it may look too flashy (I'm not a huge fan of chrome or alike), but I think it looks good.  I also have a 6.000 pulley also from Jones.  It's a CNC unit anodized black, which I'll post up pics once it's mounted.

Special shout out to Goodysgotacuda for helping me get the bracket made.  Using some 6061-t6511 and his design as a guide, I was able to finally get it mounted using some basic hand tools and my trusty taps.  Gonna pull it back off tomorrow, do some trimming and grinding, and eventually get it painted black to somewhat hide it. 

[CudaA39]

Finished product.  Stainless steel hardware heading in from Bolt Depot.  Next focus will be an alternator bracket to use a CS style alternator housing.

[Swamp Donkey]

I've subscribed to this build.  You are doing almost everything I plan on doing to my car.  Already watched the first video and will be watching the rest.  This is an awesome resource, having various members trailblazing the way.  I'm pumped to start my car.

[CudaA39]

I've subscribed to this build.  You are doing almost everything I plan on doing to my car.  Already watched the first video and will be watching the rest.  This is an awesome resource, having various members trailblazing the way.  I'm pumped to start my car.

Heck yeah, glad to hear it!

I agree and that's why I'm trying to share as much as I can.  I intentionally try not to make my videos appear instructional because I don't necessarily feel I'm someone to give direction, but I'm glad that it's helpful.

[Shoooter]

With the price original parts being so high for ebodies how does the restomod parts compare in price?

[CudaA39]

With the price original parts being so high for ebodies how does the restomod parts compare in price?

It's hard to say, as it depends so much on what you're going for.  $1 to $1 after market seems to be more expensive unless you really get into the nitty griddy date code NOS parts.  However, when you're paying for originality, especially with these cars, you're foregoing performance most of the time.  I'd much rather spend $8xx on the Wilwood disc conversion than spend $400 to redo the original drums.

With so many people selling their old cars for new Challengers, I really wanted to avoid that situation in the future.  I figure with a modern engine, good disc brakes, modern electronics, with the old school look, j could have the best of both worlds.  I'm hoping these upgrades eliminate most of the problem areas I won't want to deal with in forty years.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Finished product.  Stainless steel hardware heading in from Bolt Depot.  Next focus will be an alternator bracket to use a CS style alternator housing.

[CudaA39]

Haven't had a chance to do much with everything going on, but needed some car-time today so I decided to finally install the new Hotchkis front sway bar.  My car didn't have one from the factory, and considering how terrible my Roadrunner rides even with one, I wasn't willing to forego the upgrade.

The Hotchkis unit is made in America, comes with the end links, polyurethane bushings, and they even offer LCA adaptors for non equipped cars.  Installation was fairly straightforward, just need to final weld the LCAs.  I was a little concerned about how I would determine the actual location of the LCA brackets, but I installed everything, made sure the car was level, and they positioned themselves which made it easy.

More detail on my YouTube but the kit looks great.

[CudaA39]

With the craziness going on in the world, I figured now is a good time to step away from some of the "custom" stuff (if you wanna call it that) and get after the actual restoration side of things.  It's a great time to build an E body with the aftermarket support, and so I started going through the dozens of boxes in the basement to figure out what I can use, what I can restore, and what I need to buy. 

With the help of the MMC hardware book, I'd sneak down to the garage during nap times and start bagging bolts and components together.  So far, I'm pretty sure I'm the only thing I'm missing are the exterior door handles and the windshield (which may have been broke since day 1).  I'm going to hopefully hit some of the larger shows this year and see if I can find some items in better shape than what I have, and then going to start ordering replacements.  Once I'm ready to do the amateur level component restos, I'll pickup MMCs other book and see where it leads me.  Not going to spend a whole lot extra to do little things "assembly line correct" but if it's manageable I'll take the extra effort.

Big hurdle coming up is getting the transmission figured out.  I've decided to go against using the 727 because I want a street strip setup.  My 440-6 Roadrunner has 4.10s and it makes for long days on longer trips.  This need led me to a AOD GM unit, either a 4l60+ or 200r4.  Either way it'll be a DIY full out drag race build with a trans brake.  This will give me a small case OD unit with a steel 1st gear and the ability to still run something steel out back.