71' Gran Coup Gen III

[CudaA39]

Looks fantastic

Thank you!  Not professional by any means but just trying to clean up what I have.  Just finished the HVAC controls last night.  Again, disassembled the switches and the HVAC control, cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled.  JoAnne Fabrics paint pens have been really accurate colorwise IMO and let me bring some new life to these items.  One more thing bubble wrapped and packed away.

Next on the table is the gauge cluster.

[CudaA39]

I'm sure it's been done before but I figured I'd share.  I'm deep into the dash update for my Gen3 swap and into the gauge cluster.  I want to keep everything as OE as possible while also improving the functionality, so I converted my ammeter to a volt gauge by retrofitting an autometer gauge into it's place.  It was pretty straight forward, but definitely a must with my new 160 amp alternator.  My next move is to convert the blank plate in the next section into a true oil pressure gauge using the same concept.

I was able to disassemble the autometer by just working the crimp in the bezel until it freed itself from the plastic backing cup.  From there everything disassembled without issue.  The plastic retaining wings matched almost perfectly to the original gauge rivets, which I drilled out from the original plastic ammeter.  A little epoxy, and some calculations for the needle position, and everything lined up as well as it probably could have.  I dissected the autometer face to add a little guidance to the original face.  I think it's subtle enough to not look overdone in my opinion.  Can't wait to see it all back together.

[CudaA39]

Been focused on out home build, gathering parts, and doing little odds and ends not worth mentioning.  This year was big for knocking out some much needed parts, both on the restoration side and the customization side.  I was able to pickup a hard headliner from SE headliners at the Nats this past year, a part that has alluded my family for almost three decades.

My latest focus is on getting the top of the engine squared away.  As others have done, I'm going for a "what would it look like had Ma Mopar had a G3 in 71" look.  My car doesn't have a shaker, don't want to drop the coin on one, so my plan was to use an oval Hemi air cleaner setup and stuff it under a stock non shaker hood.  As I understand all Hemi Cudas had Shakers, but Hemi challengers did not, so technically it's not THAT far off.  Add in the Hemi correct graphics, the right paint, and the correct wing nuts and it should look decent.  The question now is, will it fit. I plan to do some test fits this weekend, I'm optimistic.  The base took a considerable amount of modification in order to get the 4150 to sit high enough up inside so that the total height was shortened as much as possible.  Not idea for Max HP, but when I go to the track I'll run a basic K&N drop filter, maybe mess with front mount duct work if I wanna get fancy.

4150 TB is from Wilson Manifolds thanks to a perfectly (too perfect) timed Black Friday deal, Prefix fuel rails, and Prefix stands.  Should hide the FI stuff pretty well.

[RacerX]

Been focused on out home build, gathering parts, and doing little odds and ends not worth mentioning.  This year was big for knocking out some much needed parts, both on the restoration side and the customization side.  I was able to pickup a hard headliner from SE headliners at the Nats this past year, a part that has alluded my family for almost three decades.

My latest focus is on getting the top of the engine squared away.  As others have done, I'm going for a "what would it look like had Ma Mopar had a G3 in 71" look.  My car doesn't have a shaker, don't want to drop the coin on one, so my plan was to use an oval Hemi air cleaner setup and stuff it under a stock non shaker hood.  As I understand all Hemi Cudas had Shakers, but Hemi challengers did not, so technically it's not THAT far off.  Add in the Hemi correct graphics, the right paint, and the correct wing nuts and it should look decent.  The question now is, will it fit. I plan to do some test fits this weekend, I'm optimistic.  The base took a considerable amount of modification in order to get the 4150 to sit high enough up inside so that the total height was shortened as much as possible.  Not idea for Max HP, but when I go to the track I'll run a basic K&N drop filter, maybe mess with front mount duct work if I wanna get fancy.

4150 TB is from Wilson Manifolds thanks to a perfectly (too perfect) timed Black Friday deal, Prefix fuel rails, and Prefix stands.  Should hide the FI stuff pretty well.

That is a nice looking intake...   Didn't know it existed, but looking at it on their website I see an issue...   it is too tall.

I went with the OCP intake for my 71 cuda with G3 hemi as I am trying to stuff the motor under a stock shaker setup.   The
OCP is one full inch lower than this one and it is still tight.       Luckily these throttle bodies are shorter than a four barrel carb
is!

[CudaA39]

Then intake + complete air cleaner setup did fit under the hood when I first got it.  I removed the air bell from the pan, and added the TB, so I'm hoping still clears.  Will be close, thankfully I have solid mounts so engine rocking should be eliminated.  Worst case, I can technically move the base pan down a bit lower using a drop base, but you start getting too close to the underside of the lid.  Hoping to know for sure tomorrow.

The OCP is a really nice intake, but man is it pricy.  I figured I'd give this a go first

[cuda hunter]

Subscribed.  Great thread. 

[CudaA39]

Finally had a chance to test fit.  Using the OE filter style, along with my modified base, the Wilson 4150, and a basic carb gasket, it clears with probably an inch to spare.  Very very relieved, I measured for this over a year ago and just waited on parts to come through.

[Filthy Filbert]

Nice to see that it clears.    I'm going G3 hemi on mine as well, and wanted to do a similar intake to what you're using, and then use a shaker hood and let the bubble cover all the EFI stuff.    However, that's like a $2000 investment to switch over to a shaker hood buying all new re-pop stuff.

I could get a fiberglass AAR hood a lot cheaper, as long as it all fits.

[YellowThumper]

Very nice.
In for the details of this build.
Nice work.

[CudaA39]

Got the car to my new shop and blew it back apart.  Took the motor and trans back out, brakes removed, and all aftermarket suspension.  It's heading to Bob George Racing in January for a chromoly 8pt cage with removable door bars.  I added in the OE seats and have the interior panels ready so the cage can get fit nice and tight. 

HVAC box is back together.  Car only had 15k miles or so and it was it good shape.  Everything salvageable, pressure tested the heater core and just gonna roll the dice with AC.  Sandblasted all the metal doors and repainted.  I didn't repaint the actual box, it had original markings on it and was in good shape. 

I'm now onto polishing the trim using Cody's YouTube videos as a guide.  They seem to be ok but I did find I'm missing the rear window top trim if anyone has one. 

Once the cage is done I'll be adding weld in frame connectors, painting the underneath, and hopefully be taking steps forward at that point on.  I'll be using basic hod rod black from the pinch welds, and coating the wheel wells.  It's going to be a driver, and I want it easy to clean.

[Filthy Filbert]

Bob is a good dude, and his crew does top notch work. 

[CudaA39]

Finally finished sanding and polishing the trim.  Downside is by the time I got done with the last piece, my technique had gotten so much better that I'm gonna have to go back and redo the first one or two that I feel could look better.

I moved onto reassembly the dash.  I bought my pad from ABC and it's been nothing but issues.  Upper defrost vents are bowed, speaker cover didn't fit, vents didn't fit, disappointed but I'll make due. 

I reused my wiring but I wiped down every wire and the look and it looks new, still flexible.  I disassembled every connector and cleaned them inside and out.  Any connector that was corroded, I'd soak in a cap of CLR and hit with the Dremel wire wheel.  I had to replace a few, but had them from when I did the other harnesses.  Finished them up with some socket lithium grease and reassembled.  I disassembled the entire fuse box and sanded/wire wheeled every single contact point.  Typically you can score old packard56 terminals cheap online, the ones for the fuse box are like 8 for $40 online for mustang repairs.  I called Del City, Waytek, and several other supply houses with zero luck for replacements.

The dash was powder coated satin black last year and everything went back relatively smooth thanks to the dozens upon dozens of photos I had.

I scored an NOS defrost switch on here, which didn't have a colored dot.  I used a drill bit, largest I had, and using just my hand dug in the indent and painted it red to simulate what it would have had.  I drilled out the blank, which was actually damaged anyway, and integrated the wiring into my existing harness thanks to some old schematics I found also on here.

The new LEDs probably change the color, but it's definitely brighter and not as hot. Those incandescent bulbs from 1971 get smoking hot, thankful the housings were in good shape.

[ebodyproducts]

Nice work!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CudaA39]

Car went to Aj at Bob George Racing to get an 8pt chromoly roll bar, two swing outs, and seat belt anchors.  Turn around time was fantastic and I'm very happy with the quality of work.  He knew what I wanted the car to be when done so he did a great job getting the rear down bars and swing outs tight in the existing structure.  After hearing about the damage to one of the F.A.S.T. cars at Indy last year I didn't want to skimp on this, as I could have easily forgone a bar until I was told by track officials.

[anlauto]

I call "shotgun".......... 'cause I wouldn't want to sit in the back seat