73 Challenger, going to be a long journey I think.

[jimynick]

The frame rails on these things are a composite box. The best way to repair them, and listening to you, the cheapest way to repair them, in my opinion, would be to either cut or drill out the welds for the upper covers and remove them to allow a proper repair. You'll likely have to slit them across the top in the repair areas, but that's not a huge deal. With them out and using your specs you should be able to measure out and determine if there's any length or sway issues. We used to use wire hooks and string plumb bobs back in the day and you could too. Then, get inside the now opened rail and hammer/dolly out the dents (if you don't know how, look up some You Tube videos on shrinking metal before you get stuck in); repair any rust issues and rustproof them and then either straighten and replace the original tops or make some new ones from 16ga steel with a simple brake-bent lip and weld 'em in. Not much fun, but not really hard to do either; just take your time and pay attention to how it went together. Lots of pics before, during and after will help the medicine go down, too. This is all predicated on you being willing and able with the requisite tool selection, of course. Good luck. 

[soundcontrol]

Maybe it's cheaper for you to buy from the Moparshop in Germany?
http://store.moparshop.de/en/home/

Check out this guy, he changed one framerail and both inner fenders on a Cuda, (and about everything else except the roof!)
all in his garage, no frameshop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaY10Pyp5R4&list=PLM-zSocgGpd_Y-db5v74okMRK8S3b0VGR

[MoparDave]

Welp. Looks like a challenge for sure but not a lost cause by no means. It can be fixed. I wouldn't be surprised if the left side of the cowl top has a kink in it as well. Unless the inner fender took all the energy when it folded.

we ship parts on a regular basis, but it isn't cheap as everything has to go air unless ocean shipment is set up ??

I can save you some money on the parts. But I can tell you now the the LEFT rail assembly from dynacorn posted earlier is no longer available, I would have to get you the components.

if these were purchased individually it would actually be cheaper on shipping to the UK.

LMK if I can help.

[Premix]

Maybe it's cheaper for you to buy from the Moparshop in Germany?
http://store.moparshop.de/en/home/

Check out this guy, he changed one framerail and both inner fenders on a Cuda, (and about everything else except the roof!)
all in his garage, no frameshop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaY10Pyp5R4&list=PLM-zSocgGpd_Y-db5v74okMRK8S3b0VGR

Thanks for the German link and the Cuda video, wow that thing was rotten. Very inspiring to watch though and I'm hoping mine isn't anywhere near that bad!

[Premix]

Thanks for the offer MoparDave, I do have a guy that I use for shipping large stuff, he gets a container from NY leaving every 2-3 weeks.

Yes you were right the front rad support took a hit , the bottom support is quite bent and a bit rotten. The top support I've been having a play with some heat and a hammer and dolly, it's not looking too far out now plus it has the body numbers on so I'm reluctant to change it.

[Premix]

The frame rails on these things are a composite box. The best way to repair them, and listening to you, the cheapest way to repair them, in my opinion, would be to either cut or drill out the welds for the upper covers and remove them to allow a proper repair. You'll likely have to slit them across the top in the repair areas, but that's not a huge deal. With them out and using your specs you should be able to measure out and determine if there's any length or sway issues. We used to use wire hooks and string plumb bobs back in the day and you could too. Then, get inside the now opened rail and hammer/dolly out the dents (if you don't know how, look up some You Tube videos on shrinking metal before you get stuck in); repair any rust issues and rustproof them and then either straighten and replace the original tops or make some new ones from 16ga steel with a simple brake-bent lip and weld 'em in. Not much fun, but not really hard to do either; just take your time and pay attention to how it went together. Lots of pics before, during and after will help the medicine go down, too. This is all predicated on you being willing and able with the requisite tool selection, of course. Good luck. 

Thanks jimynick, some great advice there. Got me thinking now...

[Premix]

On a brighter note, the bolts arrived today for the engine stand 

[torredcuda]

If you can a good frame guy they can do amazing things. When I was doing collision work I watched the shops top frame tech take a completely rolled, wrecked and twisted SUV and straighten it good as new. These cars are unibody which means the frame rails are just boxed sheet metal - easily straightened, repaired, spliced or replaced. I think most of that can be saved with a couple days on the rack and some welding and look good and more importantly still be strong and safe.

[Cuda Cody]

   Step one is to talk to a good frame shop / guy.   

[chal340]

@Premix, maybe you can see with Hauser or Robinson in UK. I know they build race cars but can repair your frame or give you an advice to find a shop.
https://www.hauserracing.com/
http://www.robinson-race-cars.co.uk/

[Premix]

@Premix, maybe you can see with Hauser or Robinson in UK. I know they build race cars but can repair your frame or give you an advice to find a shop.
https://www.hauserracing.com/
http://www.robinson-race-cars.co.uk/

Thanks Chal340, Hausers are not too far from me, I had them build the axle on my mustang and put in IRS. Only downside is they know how to charge! I will be calling Hausers or Andy Robinson and seeing if either of them are up for a challenge 

[Premix]

Ok, I cut the top damaged portion off the LH framerail today. The channel was half full of damp mud! A bit more poking and found a wasps nest, that's the third one on this car and a mouse nest!

Another thing I noticed, does that torsion bar look right? Apart from the double nut it seems a funny angle.

[soundcontrol]

Yes, the pivot pin looks kind of strange, they usually are in line with the T-bar. Take it out and check it.

[Cuda Cody]

Look at you go!     Nice!

It might bethe angle of the camera, but the torsion bar does not look right.  Maybe it's the pin in the K Member?   

[jimynick]

"A bit more poking and found a wasps nest, that's the third one on this car and a mouse nest!" LOL! NOW, you're REALLY a E-body guy! Mickey and his pals ate my roof insulation and headliner, so I can commiserate! Take a piece of steel welding rod- or an old straightened cloths hanger and put a small hook into the end of it and go "fishing" down that rail and see what else you find. Good work on opening that rail and now you see where you're at. These cars were pretty symmetrical and I'd get under it (while safely on good stands) and do some length and cross measurements and see if anything glaring hits your eye. You've got the spec chart. so use it and see if the butchers who did that last repair actually got things dimensionaly correct. If they did, then it's cosmetic rail repairs and count yourself lucky. As for the torsion bar, there's a real easy way to find out. Pull the rear C clip and if the torsion bar will move in and out of both the torsion bar crossmember socket AND the control arm one, you should be pretty good as there bloody little leeway in the first place. Do all this while muttering "caveat emptor" 16 times and then go have a nice soothing pint.