73 Challenger, going to be a long journey I think.

[Premix]

To be honest Cody, it doesn't look as bad in that picture as it really is

I like your style jimynick, I'll have a poke around tomorrow with a bit of wire. I was thinking maybe I should blast the jet washer up there now I've got a opening. I'm going to pull the car out the garage on Friday to get the gas tank out. Then I'll put it on stands, drop the wheels and have a measure everywhere of course while muttering "caveat emptor". Then onto the 16 pints you mentioned  

[Premix]

Had a go a stripping the paint off the block today! On the sides that are behind the headers it breaks off mostly but the rest is a real PIA, any tricks or special gear I can use to help, or just elbow grease?

The engine stand tried it's hardest to kill me today to! I went to turn the motor on it's side, it got to just past upright and bloody flew around 180 degress! I looked up expecting to see the motor on the floor, luckily it was still intact but now the stand is slightly bent but still ok. What a piece of crap and it's rated at 2000kg!

[Premix]

Help needed!

While stripping the paint from the motor today the wire brush kicked back and took a piece out of the head oil feed Yes I should have removed them and blocked off the holes but I didn't.

Anyone know if these a standard Indy item I can buy?

Thanks

[Premix]

Welp. Looks like a challenge for sure but not a lost cause by no means. It can be fixed. I wouldn't be surprised if the left side of the cowl top has a kink in it as well. Unless the inner fender took all the energy when it folded.

we ship parts on a regular basis, but it isn't cheap as everything has to go air unless ocean shipment is set up ??

I can save you some money on the parts. But I can tell you now the the LEFT rail assembly from dynacorn posted earlier is no longer available, I would have to get you the components.

if these were purchased individually it would actually be cheaper on shipping to the UK.

LMK if I can help.

Hi MoparDave, can you give me a price for the parts you showed, with shipping and without please?

Thanks a lot.

[Cuda Cody]

A hydraulic hose company should be able to make that hoses really easy.  And pretty cheap.  We have them made for our fork lifts whenever one breaks.  I'm not saying this company is the one you should use, but it's who we use.  They are close to us and I figure there's got to be a company like them near you too.  Do a google search to find a similar business near you.

http://nwtubesnhoses.com/

Help needed!

While stripping the paint from the motor today the wire brush kicked back and took a piece out of the head oil feed Yes I should have removed them and blocked off the holes but I didn't.

Anyone know if these a standard Indy item I can buy?

Thanks

[Burdar]

Sorry the project isn't going the way you'd hoped. When you get frustrated, just take a step back...take a break. It's just a car. Start working on it again when your head is clear.

I would suggest holding off on purchasing any body panels right now. Since there is a lot of damage in the front, chances are there will be some surprises in the rear. If I were you, I'd take the rest of the car apart and have it blasted/stripped. Then you'll know exactly what you have to work with. At that point, you can buy all the panels you need and have them shipped all at once.

This car is going to take a lot of work. Your in the right place though. You'll find a lot of helpful people here.

[MoparDave]

Welp. Looks like a challenge for sure but not a lost cause by no means. It can be fixed. I wouldn't be surprised if the left side of the cowl top has a kink in it as well. Unless the inner fender took all the energy when it folded.

we ship parts on a regular basis, but it isn't cheap as everything has to go air unless ocean shipment is set up ??

I can save you some money on the parts. But I can tell you now the the LEFT rail assembly from dynacorn posted earlier is no longer available, I would have to get you the components.

if these were purchased individually it would actually be cheaper on shipping to the UK.

LMK if I can help.

Hi MoparDave, can you give me a price for the parts you showed, with shipping and without please?

Thanks a lot.

Sure I can price them for you. What the address that they would go to.?

[Premix]

Bit more stripping this weekend, still finding nasties 

Discovered the rear quarters have been put on top of the old rusted out ones  (another wasp nest down there also)

The front frame rails are level and the rad support is level with the cowl. I'm not sure the rails aren't bent but I don't think they are tbh.

However the K member is def slightly twisted so that'll have to be replaced.

I can't get the nut undone on the LH pivot pin as the whole thing is turning in the rubber bushing.

The RH pivot pin that looked bent is very bent! Does anyone know how they are removed from the K member?

[Burdar]

Remove the nut on the end of the strut rod. Then try pulling the LCA off of the bushing. Since the pin is spinning inside the bushing, you might be able to just pull the LCA off. Then you can put some vise grips on the end of the pin and remove the nut.

[MoparDave]

I figured the cowl top would have a wrinkle as well. Fixable but still an issue.

[Cuda Cody]

You are doing a great job!  man, it's going to be super nice and straight when you get done.  You might consider looking at the Control Arm a little bit closer.  It looks more bent then the Pin to me.  Maybe it's the angle of the photo, but that control arm looks tweaked. 

Bit more stripping this weekend, still finding nasties 

Discovered the rear quarters have been put on top of the old rusted out ones  (another wasp nest down there also)

The front frame rails are level and the rad support is level with the cowl. I'm not sure the rails aren't bent but I don't think they are tbh.

However the K member is def slightly twisted so that'll have to be replaced.

I can't get the nut undone on the LH pivot pin as the whole thing is turning in the rubber bushing.

The RH pivot pin that looked bent is very bent! Does anyone know how they are removed from the K member?

[Premix]

You are doing a great job!  man, it's going to be super nice and straight when you get done.  You might consider looking at the Control Arm a little bit closer.  It looks more bent then the Pin to me.  Maybe it's the angle of the photo, but that control arm looks tweaked. 

Thanks Cody, yeah it does look like it's bent to, the pin is very bent but only seen when you roll it. In my last post I asked how to remove the pin from the K member but I meant to say how do I remove the pin from the control arm, lol. My list of parts is getting longer 

Someone has moved the rear springs inboard to run huge back wheels, this also looks like a (not) quality homemade job with some lovely pidgeon sh*t welding! The axle is 10mm out of line from the LH to Rh side. The guy was a clown, should have stayed in the circus!
As the car isn't going to be a all out drag car I'm thinking I might move the springs back to the original position, so at least everything will be inline.

Found a pic of what the car looked like when it first came over.

[Cuda Cody]

They did a nice job making it look nice.  To bad you're having to fix a lot of their mistakes.   

[anlauto]

No shortage of hood pins 

[Cuda Cody]

Use a press to get the pin out of the control arm.  Here's what the manual says:

4) Place lower control arm assembly in an arbor
press with torsion bar hex opening up and with a
support under outer edge of control arm.
(5) Place a brass drift into hex opening and press
shaft out of lower control arm. The bushing inner
shell will remain on shaft.
(6) Cut and remove rubber portion of bushing from
control arm shaft.
(7) Remove bushing outer shell by cutting with a
chisel. Use care not to cut into control arm.
( Remove bushing inner shell from pivot shaft.
Cut off if necessary.


Sometimes I weld a washer on to it so I can press it out.  If you don't have a press, you'll need a machine shop or friend to help you.