Replacing quarter panel on a Cuda or Challenger

[JohnP]

Hi I am new to this so forgive me if I am making a stuff up. I live in Durban South Africa. I purchased a 1971 Cuda with a 6.1 Hemi which had been in a front end smash,Ouch. I have stripped it down and believe it needs everything to the fire wall including the upper fire wall. The alterkton front suspension and Hydraulic steering is also damaged. I think it would be safe to replace this. Any suggestions on best suspension and company for the body parts. I have attached photos so you have an idea of the damage. I may have to send in 2 messages. Driver side rail is damaged right down to the securing point under the fire wall.
Cheers John

@7E-Bodies asked for some tips on replacing a quarter panel.  I'm guessing he's not the first nor will he be the last could benefit from some tips on replacing an E-Body quarter panel.  Since drilling out spot welds and plug welding sheet metal is already covered in a lot of other places I thought this would be a good place to focus on some other tips and tricks for hanging a full quarter panel.

Here are some of the things that I think make the job a little easier:

• I prefer to do the quarter panels on a body dolly that holds the body from frame rail points near where the suspension bolts on.  Uni-body's can flex when sheet metal is removed.
• Before you remove the old quarter panel, start by rebuilding the door hinges and install the doors (if they are empty shells add 52 pounds of dead weight evenly inside them at the bottom to pre-load).  The doors will sag about 5/8" (+/- 1/8").  Adjust and line the doors up perfectly with the old original quarter panels making sure the gaps are good and everything fits flush.  Install the front fenders, hood, and deck lid (if they are not still on the car).  Line everything up and make sure the gaps are where you want them.  By having everything in place you can be sure that the quarter panels will be installed in the correct spot and fit perfectly.
• After the doors and deck lid are lined up and bolted down good (with all bolts in the door hinges), you can remove the hood and fenders if you want, but leave the doors and deck lid on with the catch pins.  Make sure you have the deck lid torsion bars installed too.  Keep them on during all body work as they change how the deck lid is spring loaded and how it sits.
• Remove the lead from the joints on the quarter panels
• Do 1 quarter panel at a time.  You'll need to punch or drill holes in the new quarter flanges if you plan to plug weld.  This is where you have to evaluate each car and determine how much other sheet metal you need to replace and how you're going to weld them on.  Most of the time you'll be doing a trunk floor pan and lower trunk extensions so be thinking of everything you can do without taking more sheet metal off then you absolutely have to.  Full trunks pans should be done while you have the quarter off as they do not fit through the trunk opening with both quarters on.  Sometimes you have to take a little more metal off to get to everything.  But as long as you leave the doors and your alignment points in place you should be able to get everything back perfect.
• Test fit the new quarter panel.  It's a good time to make sure your rear valance fits good too.  Most likely you're going to need to do some metal work to get the body lines to fit perfectly.  Use the door and deck lid to show you exactly where it needs to go.  Get the gaps perfect.  Good gaps is what really sets up a car for a perfect paint job.
• Use metal screws or Clecos to hold things tightly in place while you make all the adjustments and metal work.  Do not weld anything in place until you are 100% it's exactly where you want it.  Then only remove as much as you need to weld.  Use vice-grips and or anything else to make sure it does not move while welding.
• If you're doing a Challenger, you really should test fit the gas cap as the reproduction fuel filler holes have been known not to fit very well.
• Test fit your marker lights (and tail lights) plus test install your rear window.
• Now is a good time to test fit your window trim.  It's easy to line it up and make little bends while the car is in metal.  Once it's painted you'll not want to scratch the new paint.  You don't need to polish the trim yet, just make sure it fit well.  You might need to make changes to the metal to make it fit well.  If it's a 1970 Cuda or Challenger you'll want to drill your trim holes (I think they are 1/4"?). 1971 and up use the pins instead of holes.

Please feel free to suggest any other tips or tricks or anything that I missed.

[Cuda Cody]

Hope nobody was hurt.

@JohnP  As bad as that looks, it's very fixable.     Can you post some more photos?  Just click the "more attachments" under the "Choose File" to upload up to 10 photos.

[MoparDave]

@JohnP
I wouldn't be surprised if the front floor was buckled also with the firewall. But that will have to be seen when it is torn down.  TO say what you will need is a guess beside the obvious. You will have to tear it down and then see what all you are willing to repair vs what will need to be replaced. Rosevillemoparts can get you ALL of the parts for this and the Alterkation suspension parts.
We ship pallets of parts world wide so to minimize the expense it is in best effort to buy as much as you can and to put into one shipment. Other wise it will be vary costly to ship piece by piece. Feel free to contact me once this is torn down. email at parts@mikeriehls.com

[JohnP]

The good thing is that no one was hurt. I just removed the motor and gearbox tonight so will take more photos as I go along. Cheers John

[Cuda Cody]

After the sheet metal was removed it's looking pretty good for as much damage as there was.  I see there was some extra bracing installed prior so maybe that helped.  @MoparDave  can get you some good prices on AMD frame rails.  You should consider putting it on a frame rack to get everything straight again.

Please post some more photos as you go. 

[JohnP]

Cheers

I have the panel shop coming tomorrow to check out and let me know when they can fit it in for the chassis jig. I have some chassis measurements but seems to be very sketchy,

John.

[MoparDave]

@JohnP

this may help with measurements if you don't have.

[JohnP]

First one down loaded but the second one said I was not allowed to this area.

Cheers

[74CudaChief]

From all the hours of research I have done on the 3M Automix Panel Bonding Adhesive - 08115 (Now permanently cross-eyed)LOL.

There is no problem using it on any body panel. The auto manufactures and auto body repair shops have been, and are, using it everywhere!
A body shop had used it on a repair to a BMW and it came back some time later having been hit again in the rear quarter panel. The insurance company totaled it this time however, the body shop owner decided to cut it open to see how the Panel Bond held up. It held up just as well as the welded sections and in some places better than the welds.

The only place that they (3M) recommend using it along with welding is on rear quarter panels. 3M says to spot weld the rear quarter panel where it meets the sail panel and also where it meets the rear tail light panel, then use the 3M Panel Bond everywhere else.

3M also makes a weld thru seam sealer.

No, I am not a rep for 3M..Lol

[JohnP]

Thanks allot

Have a nice day.

Cheers

[soundcontrol]

Ouch! Can't even imagine putting all that work in the Cuda and then get into an accident. Good luck with the repairs, no rust at least...

[74CudaChief]

Dmz73,

"Strip and prep the tail panel- if you are like many people, you might be replacing the trunk floor, trunk extensions and tail panel all in one shot. Take note- there is a sequence to stick with that guarantees success. If you have to replace the tail panel at the same time as the quarter panel and trunk floor, and can keep the trunk gutter, it gives you something to reference. Take measurements!"

Fantastic info and pictures, thank you!  I do have a couple questions from your quote above because I'm going to replace both rear quarter panels, trunk pan, and tail panel. Once I dig into it I'm sure I will have to replace the trunk extensions as well.

Question 1. What is the specific sequence (for the items I am replacing) to stick with that guarantees success?

Question 2. What is the trunk gutter?  Is it the space around and or between the trunk seal and other body panels?....

Question 3. What specific measurements do I need to take?  From where to where?

Thank you for your time and patients.

[JohnP]

That is true no rust just allot of panels and hours. As it was before so lets see if I can get it back to this standard.

Cheers

John

[Cuda Cody]

I have not used the panel bonding adhesive so I can't help much there, but maybe @Dmz73  will chime in.

Dmz73,

"Strip and prep the tail panel- if you are like many people, you might be replacing the trunk floor, trunk extensions and tail panel all in one shot. Take note- there is a sequence to stick with that guarantees success. If you have to replace the tail panel at the same time as the quarter panel and trunk floor, and can keep the trunk gutter, it gives you something to reference. Take measurements!"

Fantastic info and pictures, thank you!  I do have a couple questions from your quote above because I'm going to replace both rear quarter panels, trunk pan, and tail panel. Once I dig into it I'm sure I will have to replace the trunk extensions as well.

Question 1. What is the specific sequence (for the items I am replacing) to stick with that guarantees success?

Question 2. What is the trunk gutter?  Is it the space around and or between the trunk seal and other body panels?....

Question 3. What specific measurements do I need to take?  From where to where?

Thank you for your time and patients.

[Cuda Cody]

   WOW @JohnP  that was one super nice Cuda!!!!