Sheetmetal gurus help me get started

[Jocigar]

I just got my car back from reso shop, the floors are done as is the firewall and inner fenders.

I need to finish the back end; roof, trunk floor, quarters and dutchman.

The car is currently sitting on its suspension.

For those that have done this before, where would you start... 
I'd like to start with roof but the quarters go under roof so maybe I can't do that?   
I was also thinking of doing one side/quarter at a time, and installing floor once I have a quarter removed.

Floors and rails are solid as are the tail panel and trunk lid gutters.   If possible, I would like to leave tail panel and gutters attached but only because I lack confidence in the alignment of everything.

So I need some guidance:
-leave on suspension or jackstand on torque box locations.
-Start with roof or otherwise.
-Do one section at a time or rip it all apart and fit and clap the entire assembly back in place at once.
-Where and when should I apply any bracing if needed.

Sorry million questions!  I want to hit the ground running, so far I started drilling out spot welds, have all AMD sheetmetal ready and waiting.   thanks!!

[RUNCHARGER]

I like keeping them as intact as I can. In your case I would replace the trunk floor first keeping everything else intact. Then one quarter and trunk extension (making sure your trunk lid and everything else fit correctly), then the other quarter and extension, then the dutchman then the roof skin. You can cut out the trunk floor with the quarters intact and slip the new one in from the back end underneath the tail panel.
You'll probably get 20 different opinions though.

[dodj]

From where I'm sitting I'm not sure why you are changing the quarters and dutchman. From the pics they look pretty decent.

[Filthy Filbert]

From where I'm sitting I'm not sure why you are changing the quarters and dutchman. From the pics they look pretty decent.

Looks pretty thin to me...

[DeathProofCuda]

I like keeping them as intact as I can. In your case I would replace the trunk floor first keeping everything else intact. Then one quarter and trunk extension (making sure your trunk lid and everything else fit correctly), then the other quarter and extension, then the dutchman then the roof skin. You can cut out the trunk floor with the quarters intact and slip the new one in from the back end underneath the tail panel.
You'll probably get 20 different opinions though.

@RUNCHARGER Does the added ease of replacing the trunk pan without the tail panel in the way not justify removing/reinstalling the tail panel?

[torredcuda]

There are probably a number of different opinions on procedure to do this but I`ll give you my thoughts. First I would make sure you door/quarter gaps (leave you doors on) , take lot`s of measurements and /or make marks for window openings, locations, gaps etc. Next I would rough cut the quarters off - think billboard stripe outline -  to facilitate getting the trunk pan in and welded. I would then finish cutting off the quarters, cut off the dutchman panel and roof skin and attach the new panels with clamps, clecos or self tapping screws getting all your openings and gaps where you want them using the doors, trunk lid and measurements you made. Once you are happy with fitment weld away.

[Dmod1974]

I don't think you can slide the trunk pan in from the side with a quarter off unless you have the wheel house out too.  With a quarter and the tail panel out it should go in ok.  I had the whole rear frame section dropped out of mine when I did it, but I do distinctly remember trying to rough fit the trunk floor with everything in place but the quarter and that was a no go due to the wheel house which hangs down alongside the frame rail.

[torredcuda]

OK wasn`t sure about a full trunk on an E-body, when I did mine years ago I did a two piece as that was all that was avaialble aftermarket.

[johnr]

About a year ago I replaced the trunk pan in a 1970 Challenger. It was a full floor from Classic Industries. I did have the panel between the rear window and deck lid off the car, but I was able to maneuver the floor into place through the opening with the quarters still on the car. It did take me awhile to get the right angle to the dangle, but I did get it into place without the extra work of cutting it in half. Patience & Persistence being the key.

[SRT392]

when i did mine i knew up front that i was going to replace the tail lite pnl so if you remove about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of the bottom of the tail lite pnl then you can leave everything else intact and slide in the new one piece trunk floor, nail it all down then remove the rest of the drop offs and replace them. Don't tag the drop offs to the quarters until you replace the quarters. After the trunk floor and drop offs are in then go after the Dutchman / Deck Filler pnl. then cut out the rest of the tail lite pnl and replace it.  Then one at a time the quarters. probably should lock it down to a frame jig for the quarters but some say its not required. i did and it all went smoothly considering aftermarket sheet metal. This procedure keeps everything tied together and only replacing one piece at a time it keeps the alignment of parts intact.  less to go wrong..  FWIW

[dodj]

From where I'm sitting I'm not sure why you are changing the quarters and dutchman. From the pics they look pretty decent.

Looks pretty thin to me...

I didn't notice that...

[jimynick]

I'd drill out the rear body panel, remove it and then install the one piece trunk floor, checking the fit against the rear body panel. Once that was in, I'd cut both 1/4's off as well as the upper body panel and the roof as well. Keep the car on it's suspension, but don't be too shy about using some 3/4" angle iron for some diagonal bracing. As mentioned, take approximately 2,000 photos and measure (and record) all panel measurements that you can think of. Obviously I'm exaggerating, but not much. The trick is to support the car in it's natural fashion and then mount all your sheet metal and try to achieve your panel fits. You will amass a nice collection of vice-grips and a box of Clecos and thewir pliers won't come amiss either as you juggle, swear, bend, swear, trim, swear, readjust and swear a wee bit more on your journey to E body Elysium. LOL Good luck! 

[Jocigar]

Can't thank you guys enough 


I'm absorbing the information appreciate you sharing your thoughts and knowledge.

How do I remove the spot welds on the inside corners, where the tail panel meets the quarter? its tight and a spot drill will not make it in there?   I can post a picture later.

I like the idea of removing the tail panel and doing floor and re-install using quarters as guide.

I think I was hoping to keep tail panel and side gutters in place...   The trunk pan has the 1/2" lip that attaches to tail panel.    Could I hammer the lip flat shove it under tail panel, then bend it back up without entirely removing tail ?   is that even worth the effort?  that would allow me to leave the gutters attached to tail panel.

[jimynick]

Since you're going to replace the 1/4s anyways, just cut yourself a window in the rear of the 1/4 to allow you access to drill out the rear body panel. My car is a Challenger, but I don't think the gutters are much different and there aren't all that many spot welds to drill out. If you don't already have one, a Blair rotary cutter is an effective tool for spot weld cutting. They have double-ended 3/8" bits and use a spring loaded centre pin. An easy way to guide them, is to drill a small 1/8" or less pilot hole in the centre of the spotwelds and that does away with most of the scittering you may otherwise encounter. Some of the guys are now using small rotary belt grinders as well, but they're tough on panels that you want to reuse. I wouldn't flatten the rear flange and hope to reestablish it once in. It'll be one of your biggest PITA moments in my opinion. Look at the job as a large, metallic jigsaw puzzle and you'll be well on your way to solving it! 

[torredcuda]

Part of the reason I mentioned rough cutting the quarters off is to gain easier access to the seams. Use an air hammer ( I like this type - https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=651935789000231&set=pcb.3126368347452560 ) , cutoff wheel, snips etc. to cut off the majority of the panel and around seams to make room for a drill with the Blair cutters jimmynick recommended.