what paint?

[Cuda Cody]

These are the steps I use...

https://www.e-bodies.org/how-to-paint-a-show-car-step-by-step-guide/

That was after it was all cured and sanded.

@ Cuda Cody is that from the gun or has there been any color sanding?   If from the gun it looks like it laid down really nice....

[7E-Bodies]

I'm also using the @Cuda Cody recommendation that he links above. I've printed off his entire write up, including the manufacturers spec sheets that he includes as links. I 3 hole punched it and placed it in a binder in my shop. It's my strictly followed go-to. I know there may be other techniques and brands, but he took the time to spell his all out in layman's terms. Much appreciated. I'm working with F8, btw.

[tparker]

Just talking out loud here.

Earlier posts were talking about the most accurate paint, but a couple things strike me as interesting. I'l start with an analogy. In the guitar world people hunt for the best tone, and often point to some of there favorite guitarist, say like, Eric Clapton with the Blues Breakers. They try to get the same amp, put the same NOS tubes, capacitors, etc in the amp and pay thousands for this sound. Many will even argue with other people if they are using different components or new parts. But when Clapton played his rig, it was all brand NEW. Over 50 years of time has changed the speakers, tubes, and capacitors. Its not the same. Close, but not the same.

So when we talk about paint, why do we care how "accurate" it is? We use a two stage urethane paint today, which does not look like paint from the 70's. We don't have lead in the paint. That is a pain when painting Yellow and some other paints. No doubt the white primer under Yellow is going to have a different look than leaded Yellow. Then what are we trying to be accurate with? A 50 year old paint job that has wear and tear? Maybe lead a hard life or perhaps one that was garaged most of it's life? It's paint will still be aged. Or do we try to be accurate to how it rolled off the assembly line? But is that possible with todays paint, and is that accurate cause that paint job doesn't account for the 50 years of wear?

My thought, is go nuts however you want. But I personally feel a good close paint is good enough. I good mixer should be able to color match any sample regardless of the brand, assuming they have the paint formula and a decent eye. I think the difference in urethane and 50 years will nullify a PGP and another brand as far as color go. Someone mentioned painting with better paint/clear so it goes on better. I would probably agree.


Just my two cents. LOL

Tom