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Are there any 'mistakes' you prefer over correctness?

Started by Flatdad, May 21, 2020, 06:24:03 AM

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anlauto

Quote from: Skdmark on May 25, 2020, 12:29:54 PM
Plated trunk catches that are installed after the decklid is painted.
Don't care for painted trunk catches especially when they are adjusted after painting, leaving a bare color paint spot on the underside of the decklid and\or latch.

I agree with what you're saying but I found this on an original paint AAR Cuda. :dunno:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Skdmark

I have a decklid off a Challenger with the early 70 jacking instructions that appears to be in original paint in my parts stash. The catch on it is also plated. However, I have seen numerous other original paint cars and references to it being painted.

The ICCA judging guide says the trunk catch can be either unpainted or painted.
Maybe it depends on which factory and/or SPD.   :dunno:
You are not entitled to your opinion. You are entitled to your informed opinion. No one is entitled to be ignorant.
-Harlan Ellison

(O OI====II====IO O)    (O O{]{]{] ][ [}[}[}O O)
:stayinlane:

Flatdad

Question

When Chrysler sent out a car to make its rounds for the press to review, did they make sure stuff like decals were perfectly straight, no overspray, no inspection marks, etc.?


Mr Lee

Quote from: soundcontrol on May 25, 2020, 06:22:27 AM
I have yet not seen any restorations duplicating the factory welds!  :)
Wow!   Ya think that's factory?  Looks like they were Mig welding there.  Wonder why


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soundcontrol

Quote from: Mr Lee on May 26, 2020, 04:55:25 AM
Quote from: soundcontrol on May 25, 2020, 06:22:27 AM
I have yet not seen any restorations duplicating the factory welds!  :)
Wow!   Ya think that's factory?  Looks like they were Mig welding there.  Wonder why


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Maybe not, but nothing is repaired in that area, and I know previous owners back to the early 80's, and they didn't do it...


Mr Lee

I'll add another to the list.  As far as incorrectness goes...

I saw a Challenger at Carlisle last year that had super shiny stainless window trim.  It made the car really catch my eye and draw me to it.  I don't know what it's "supposed" to look like, because on every Challenger I've had the trim was beat up, but I doubt it ever came from the factory shiny like a mirror.   

(And I don't think anyone has mentioned paint jobs.  Most of us don't want a paint job with orange peel and runs in the paint.  I think the paint jobs of today are quite a bit nicer than 50 years ago)

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dodj

If you go to the main site 'home', go to the 'how to' videos and you will see three videos by Cody that show you how to polish up that window trim....
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill


Mr Lee

Quote from: dodj on June 07, 2020, 07:04:44 PM
If you go to the main site 'home', go to the 'how to' videos and you will see three videos by Cody that show you how to polish up that window trim....
Yup.  Thanks.  Saw them already and have put them to use.  Been polishing trim for days.  Just about done now.


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Mr Lee

Remember, wherever you go, there you are.

dodj

"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

RUNCHARGER

Good job: I go against the grain in that is one of the jobs I really enjoy (other than the mess it makes).
Sheldon


Burdar

I'm in the middle of polishing stainless as well, however I don't have the patience to sand all the way to 1500 or 2000.  I've been doing 180,220,320,400,600,800 and 1000.  Then the gray polishing compound followed by the green.  The first piece of trim had a very long, very deep scratch almost half way along the piece.  Sanding that out almost drove me insane.  It made me appreciate just how nice my Challenger trim was to start with.  This Dart trim is really scratched up. 

Yesterday I bought some fine roloc discs and fairly aggressive sanding discs for my small angle air grinder.  I sanded out a deep scratch and feathered it out with the air grinder before starting the hand sanding.  That made life SO much easier and quicker.  You have to have a light touch though so you don't take too much material off.

dodj

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on June 08, 2020, 07:23:17 AM
Good job: I go against the grain in that is one of the jobs I really enjoy (other than the mess it makes).
I could send you a box full?
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Mr Lee

Quote from: Burdar on June 08, 2020, 08:43:23 AM
I'm in the middle of polishing stainless as well, however I don't have the patience to sand all the way to 1500 or 2000.  I've been doing 180,220,320,400,600,800 and 1000.  Then the gray polishing compound followed by the green.  The first piece of trim had a very long, very deep scratch almost half way along the piece.  Sanding that out almost drove me insane.  It made me appreciate just how nice my Challenger trim was to start with.  This Dart trim is really scratched up. 

Yesterday I bought some fine roloc discs and fairly aggressive sanding discs for my small angle air grinder.  I sanded out a deep scratch and feathered it out with the air grinder before starting the hand sanding.  That made life SO much easier and quicker.  You have to have a light touch though so you don't take too much material off.

Yup.  I agree. I dont think you need to go to 1500 either.  1000 is fine.  Like you, I also got some 2" sanding discs for the die grinder.  Smart move.  The hard part (for me) is getting all the scratches out from the previous grit that I used.  It was driving me mad.  They kept showing up and then I'd have to go back. 

Check out this site.  They make some nice 1/4" mandrels with 2" round sponge backing pads with velcro and these fiber sanding discs that don't clog up.  Wonder Weave discs.  they make grits up to 3000 I think.  Cool stuff and reasonably priced I think.
https://woodturnerswonders.com/
Remember, wherever you go, there you are.

jamesroney

Quote from: Flatdad on May 21, 2020, 06:24:03 AM
There's certain restoration & paint mistakes I think look better than original & would probably do on purpose.
(...snip)
Are there certain mistakes that you like that make the car look better in your opinion?

Fender tags. Back side should be painted off the car, then installed.
Hood Hinges. Entire hinge should be painted off the car in both open and closed positions.
Master Cylinder. Should be painted in cast iron grey prior to installation.
Dash pad, cowl, and back of dash.  Should be painted prior to assembly.
Trunk striker. Deck lid should be painted prior to striker installation.
Door interior.  Inside and bottom should be shot in epoxy primer.
Seat frames. Seat springs, and frames should be painted prior to buns.
Headliner rods. Paint them.
Instrument light bar. Paint both sides.
Door hinges. Epoxy primer off the car, especially the back.

There's a theme here. I know it's not concourse correct...but for an everyday car, every exposed metal surface should have some kind of corrosion resistant covering.  It drives me crazy that my Cuda started to rust after it left the paint shop.  I know that MOPAR was saving cost by leaving some surfaces unpainted...but rust is never charming.


BS23N0E