What did you do with your ebody/Mopar today?

[chargerdon]

Went to a montly car cruise sunday as the Weather was warm and sunny.   Noticed going and coming that the steering felt "looser" than normal and wander on the road.    I also noticed and had been noticing that the steering wheel was no longer straight.    When i got home I rechecked the tire pressure and it was good.   

So, i jacked it up to do a visual and hands on check and noticed that the Idler arm could be moved up and down about 1 1 1/2 inches at the link bar.   So, got out the wrenches and tried tightened the big bolt buy about a full turn, lo and behold it tightened up.   Now with that better decided to reset the toe-in while straightening the steering wheel surely it has to be off.   ( learned years ago how to set the toe in using just a pair of strings from the rear wheel to the front wheel..might not get it perfect but within a 1/8 of an inch  )   Turned the wheel to straight then set the toe in for each front wheel.   

Took the car for a ride and huge difference, but, still more SLOP than i would have liked.   So, when i go home i turned the big sector nut screw on the top of the power steering unit 180 degrees clockwise  and took for another ride.    Much, much, better...   wheel now straight, steering much much less slop and feels better...   Don't know how all of this occured cause 5 years ago had a professional alignment done, but i guess it did over time or something.

Now the big issue i have to check is that big bolt and nut on the idler.   Realized that i was able to tighten it without removing any carter pin and surely there should be one there as all of the other suspension bolts have carters...   So tomorrow will jack it back up and check the bolt to see if its a standard nut or castle...  if castle get a carter pin and put it in.   sigh... 

[jimynick]

Wow, what a story and good for you before the idler arm fell off. I've never seen a proper nut for that to be non-castellated, nor one without a proper cotter pin! Did the "professionals" who did your previous alignment leave the cotter pins out of anything else? I'd be going over all of it were it mine. 

[jimynick]

On a lighter note...after ordering the parts I think I need from Cass @ Dr.Diff last night, today I went over to Georgetown to see the Excelsior of E bodies, Alan Gallant and he generously fixed me up with a 23 spline diff yoke for the diff rebuild that I've got to get done soon because the pooch is pregnant it appears! Sigh. Alan's got a beautiful '70 Charger in (just barely) his garage with a Gen3 392 in it. A very nice car! He said he's got about 7 cars on the go and his basement looks like a Mopar parts department circa 1970. The man does nice work and he's got a secret little AAR project that if and when it comes together, should be fab! Thanks again Alan! 

[Dakota]

Does life get in the way sometimes? Finally, 27 years after building this 67 440 ,(All old school parts} First start/cam break-in was successful!  WOW! Hope to keep the momentum going and add all the parts I've collected over the years. Many thanks to all of you for getting me here.

Congrats on getting the motor running.  I know from personal experience that it's a unique and joyous moment.

[chargerdon]

Wow, what a story and good for you before the idler arm fell off. I've never seen a proper nut for that to be non-castellated, nor one without a proper cotter pin! Did the "professionals" who did your previous alignment leave the cotter pins out of anything else? I'd be going over all of it were it mine. 

It gets worse.   Checked all of the other suspension bolts where castle and carter pin should be used and their all ok.    However, after looking in the service manual i can see that the bolt/nut for the idler arm should be installed with the bolt on the top, and the castle nut on the underside.   Mine is backwards, i.e the bolt is installed on the bottom pointing up and the NON castle nut on the top.    In that position i cant even see if it is a bolt for a castle nut (hole for carter pin in it).    Also, the bolt itself is a 13/16 and the nut on top is 7/8th...sign what commie pea brain did this !!!     I cannot find in the service manual a specification for the bolt itself only that it should be torqued to 70 ft lbs.   Does anyone know the specifications for this bolt/nut and does anyone have a spare as im sure ill never find it at a auto parts store !!   Maybe my local Chrysler dealer, but, they do not have manuals/parts books that go back this old.   

[Challenger in NC]

Does life get in the way sometimes? Finally, 27 years after building this 67 440 ,(All old school parts} First start/cam break-in was successful!  WOW! Hope to keep the momentum going and add all the parts I've collected over the years. Many thanks to all of you for getting me here.

Congrats Sid!

[Challenger in NC]

Finally reunited the dash pad with the frame & gauges 15 years after sending it out for restoration.

[MoparCarGuy]

Installed the front framerail splash shields I removed back in 1998 with 5/8" large head rivets (3/16" Diameterx 5/8"L).
Before and after pics below.

[Spikedog08]

Building a new rallye dash for the convertible! 

[Spikedog08]

Finally reunited the dash pad with the frame & gauges 15 years after sending it out for restoration.

That looks great!   

[Skid Row]

  Looking good Chris!

[Cudajason]

spent a little time out in the cold, and got my break lines together, and pulled a part the steering pump to fix a leak.

progress is progress.

[blown motor]

A few weeks ago I put a new Champion radiator in the Charger and it put the shroud an inch away from the rad which looked like crap and I felt it would let the fan draw air reducing the amount going through the rad. I had a guy make a filler piece and today I fit it, painted it and installed it. Here's the before and after pics.

[blown motor]

Oil change is done. This car is ready to rumble. 

[Challenger in NC]

Car looks great. That is one clean garage!