What did you do with your ebody/Mopar today?

[YellowThumper]

Reclaimed it's rightful parking spot in garage for the first time in 3 years.
Finished the other one and it is heading up to Washington St.
6 year build is complete. First time on road in 37 years.
Looking forward to Challenger progress again.

[chargerdon]

Ever since i had my 360 rebuilt while stroking to 408 ive been concerned about its oil pressure.   Cold its fine, but once driven over 5 miles and come to a stop at idle in drive, it will drop on my mechanical gauge to as low as 8 PSI.   On the road cruising in OverDrive at 50 i only turn about 1600 RPM and pressure will be about 25...   It has a new stock oil pump.  Ive been told you only need 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM so its above that still...   

Ive always used premium oils with high zinc and 10W-30.     Today i changed the oil and filter and used valvoline racing with high zinc and 20W-50.   Wow the difference.   Now cold at idle i get 60 PSI and fully hot after driving 5+ miles, i still get 20 ad idle in gear, and on the road 35 in OD at 1600 RPM...   So it basically increased oil pressure across the board by about 10 PSI or more.   Now i feel more comfortable.   

[MoparCarGuy]

Replaced my factory throttle cable with a Lokar XDP-1000HT DuoPak throttle cable. It has black, stainless-steel braid and includes the bracket for the corner of the carb/throttle body. Looks great with the Holley Terminator X throttle body. I do not have a transmission kickdown because I am running an early B&M ManualPak-modified valve body on a TCI Street Fighter 727B transmission. The Manual Pak allows a forward pattern using the factory Slap-Stik shifter and console.

[dodj]

Nice. 

I've had a lokar throttle cable on my car for a several years now. Really like it but it's silver. I may go get one in black like yours to match my QuickFuel Black Diamond carb.

[Gripper]

Modified Vintage Air bracket to move ac compressor so 2 belts can be run on ac and alternator.
Installed original water pump and crank pulleys.

[tparker]

Put my Engine in.  30 years in the making.

[jimynick]

Got a phone call from an old schoolmate and the guy who sold me my '72 340 4 spd Duster, that there was an informal meet at Grand Bend dragway, and I moved 3 cars and sundry Ka-ka and got the Challenger out. Drove it to the Bend and the place was busy! Turns out the track was rented for dragging and a huge motorcycle race weekend that my own son was in. Turned out that my sister and BIL were also there! A nice afternoon with $6 hamburgs and $5 beer. The only downside was the $70+ in gas toing and froing, but at least it's full now. Can't take it with you. 

[YellowThumper]

Gave it some lift in preparation for new exhaust.
Finally get to fire up build thread again.

[blown motor]

Got a phone call from an old schoolmate and the guy who sold me my '72 340 4 spd Duster, that there was an informal meet at Grand Bend dragway, and I moved 3 cars and sundry Ka-ka and got the Challenger out. Drove it to the Bend and the place was busy! Turns out the track was rented for dragging and a huge motorcycle race weekend that my own son was in. Turned out that my sister and BIL were also there! A nice afternoon with $6 hamburgs and $5 beer. The only downside was the $70+ in gas toing and froing, but at least it's full now. Can't take it with you. 

I think the group dragging was the one from Stratford.

[chargerdon]

I drive the 74 Challenger with its 360/408 engine and automatic in the Christmas and New Years parades here in Raleigh and Apex, and even tho i have a 26" radiator rated for 500HP and the 7 blade water pump fan with a shroud, driving it for 4 miles at less than walking speed so in idle and the NC temps it would get much hotter than i wanted.   The parade from start to finish lasts about 60 minutes, and  I want to stick with the normal driven fan.   I do not want to have to put in a Pull Electric fan that consumes 20 or more amps, and need to fully upgrade my alternator and heavy duty wires.   

I already swapped out the 12 gauge wiring to 10 gauge and bypassed the amp gauge with a volt gauge and swapped out its 41 amp alternator with a 60 amp alternator that does better at 750 RPM idle in gear.   

The grille side of the radiator with air conditioning evaporator is a tight squeeze barely having two inches between the evaporator and the radiator support structure in the middle so a big pusher fan is out of the question.   So, after some research and measuring i found a pair of 7" fans that i could install as a "helper" to the big 7 blade nose fan.   Being only 7 " they fit on the drivers side stacked one on top of each other...and while rated at 5-7 amp together they are drawing 5.3 amp.   

Im hoping next parade it makes a difference.   

[jimynick]

Many of them no doubt were, but did you see the orange Henry J, the black Vega wagon, the red ragtop Camaro with the blower, the Fury HT, etc etc.? All Walkerton or area boys.. Most of them are old friends and schoolmates. The Bruce County mafia is far flung. 

[Jay Bee]

Actually yesterday, troubleshooting electrical. Switch title lamp stopped working, ignition light just fine. Both fed from the same delay circuit. Had me stumped until the ignition(key) light also stopped working. Traced to left door switch. Apparently there was enough of a connection made for one light to work and not the other until the terminal fell off completely. Luckily I had one spare switch left.

Just posting because, who knows, it might be useful information down the road to someone.

[blown motor]

I finally woke up the beast and took it out for its first run of the year. I had put a new rad in to deal with a cooling issue and it ran cool under heavy load which is what the trouble was. I had also sent the original speedometer to Redline because the aftermarket one that was in it was junk and it behaved flawlessly. 

[jimynick]

That's it Murray, rub it in! Damn that thing's pretty! Glad to see you got 'er out of the barn. 

[70_440-6Cuda]

The previous owner on my '70 Cuda could not figure out how to wire up the MDS electronic ignition, so they put a toggle switch where the road lamp switch used to be for ignition to the MDS and called it a kill switch...... gotta love dimwits,

Anyway, I could never remember which way was "on" and kept killing the battery so I rewired it to start with the key about a month ago. Of course after that I had intermittent starting problems.  Friday pulled the car in the driveway and could not get it to start to put back in the garage.  Yesterday I  I dug into it and found original wire terminals for the ballast resistor were almost completely severed.  Took the terminals off, redid the connections, rewired it up and presto starts first time every time.

I also found that the under dash wiring looks fairly unmolested and in really great condition, AND I found the speaker fader switch hanging under there as well so there is a plus!