Old vs New ignition switch connections

[Mrbill426]

Trying not to make this too complicated... I am trying to sort out whether the replacement ignition switch I have will work.  There is an added small gauge black wire that the original does not have and using a OHM meter it does not seem to have any purpose, meaning no matter the switch position there is no continuity between it and any other lead on the switch nor the switch housing (ground?).  The corresponding (male) end of the dash connector does have wires (2 bundled orange) that connect to it, but as I said the original switch connector had no such wire for them to connect with.  The wires on the two switches connect to its back in different places but testing shows the switch functions the same for all the leads.  What is that black wire for?  Do I leave it there or remove it at the switch connector end?

Yes this harness was once repaired with a connector bypass for the black and red power leads, which I am going to do again.  I am also going to use the bypass (ammeter) system for the alternator/battery circuit.  I have installed a volt meter under the dash.

Thanks

[MoparLeo]

Why aren't you just using the correct switch instead of trying to adapt something different and then wondering why it doesn't just work like the original ?

[Mrbill426]

Maybe I miss-wrote my question and did complicate things afterall.  I am  not wondering why it doesn't work, I am wondering if it will work with the differences I am pointing out.  When I bought it, it was indicated to me that it fits my car amongst several other year and model cars.  If I have to remove or omit a wire so be it, I just want to be sure before I put my column back together as it is a pain in the neck.

Thanks.

Why aren't you just using the correct switch instead of trying to adapt something different and then wondering why it doesn't just work like the original ?

[Rbob]

I bought what looks to be the same / similar,  my concern is it may not fit into the steering column with that giant round sleeve...

Description says "identical in every way. Plug and play - no modifications"

[Mrbill426]

@Rbob  so then I am not alone 
I did a trial run and it fits but yes that sleeve makes it tight.

I bought what looks to be the same / similar,  my concern is it may not fit into the steering column with that giant round sleeve...

Description says "identical in every way. Plug and play - no modifications"

[Mrbill426]

@Rbob does your dash harness connector look like mine with the two bundled orange leads, and did your original switch harness not have that small gauge black wire?  Mine is a '72 with a Rallye dash and key light, what year is yours?

I bought what looks to be the same / similar,  my concern is it may not fit into the steering column with that giant round sleeve...

Description says "identical in every way. Plug and play - no modifications"

[Rbob]

I will take some pics in the morning, I know it does not have that small black wire .  Mine is a 1970 and no key light.

[Rbob]

Pics:

[Burdar]

I ran into the exact same issue.  The replacement switch is meant to fit multiple car lines.  The E-body(my 73 anyway) didn't have that small black wire.  Maybe A or B-bodies do?  I assume that wire is a ground...grounded to the body of the switch.  The two orange wires on the other side of the flat plug have power.  If that black wire is a ground, it will be big trouble if you plug it into those orange wires.  I just tapped it out of the way.  It's not needed for the switch to function.

[Mrbill426]

@Rbob yep looks the same as my switch and connector.  Well at least before a prior owner or a shop removed the heavy red and black wires from the connector and butt connected them to the dash harness.

Thanks.

Pics:

[Mrbill426]

@Burdar that is what I suspected, more "universal" than a direct OEM replacment      I thought maybe the black wire was a ground too but as I mentioned I found no continuity between it and any other wire in the switch harness regardless of switch position, and not the switch case either    Seems the bundled orange wires at the dash connector is more of a junction than anything else.
I will use it but remove that black wire.

Thanks.

I ran into the exact same issue.  The replacement switch is meant to fit multiple car lines.  The E-body(my 73 anyway) didn't have that small black wire.  Maybe A or B-bodies do?  I assume that wire is a ground...grounded to the body of the switch.  The two orange wires on the other side of the flat plug have power.  If that black wire is a ground, it will be big trouble if you plug it into those orange wires.  I just tapped it out of the way.  It's not needed for the switch to function.

[chaps70rt]

Just a thought ..... perhaps the black wire is for a column shift automatic light??   But then, it probably should be orange to match other
switched lights in the dash.    Another Mopar mystery .....

[Mrbill426]

@chaps70rt maybe so 
My rear speakers were wired backwards...
 

Just a thought ..... perhaps the black wire is for a column shift automatic light??   But then, it probably should be orange to match other
switched lights in the dash.    Another Mopar mystery .....

[realn96]

I'm in the same boat with this right now.. bought a new old stock borg warner ignition switch.  It has the extra black wire! What was the out come? Leave the wire ? Or disconnect it?

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Remove the small black wire from the ign switch Molex. Used on C-bodies only, grounds while cranking, used to light the brake waring light while starting, bulb check thing I assume. Leaving it in place will result in the blowing of the illumination fuse the first time the car is started with the lights on. Yes, orange wires are the illumination circuit, column shift automatics would have the gear selector light connected there. Highly recommend by-passing the Molex connector on the large gauge red & black wires as well. Or replace the Molex connector altogether with something that can handle normal ignition switch loads.