Shooting the breeze. What’s the 1/4 mile time of a 340 challenger?

[kawahonda]

Cool. I automatically thought that I should let my friend replace them since they are pressed in. He has a machine shop and would probably spend way less effort than me!

He could also polish up the end of the driveshaft to remove any markings (the part that goes into the transmission).

Figured I'd just need to owe him some beer.

[kawahonda]

Dropped off the axles and the driveshaft at a local reputable shop.

Driveshaft: install new u-joints, balance, paint.

Axles: install new tapered OEM-style bearings.

Since I've gone this far, I might as well install:

(1) Tail-shaft seal (which I hear is just a dust seal). Worth replacing this? Does anyone know the part # for NAPA for this? Should I get the one that has a dust boot or without? Here's options:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ATP14581
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ATP11424
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ATP12049

(2) Axle seals. I'm having a heck of a time finding this. Is this what they call a "wheel" seal, which has both and inner and outer? Anyone have a NAPA Part # for this? "Axle seal" brings up nothing in the search.
Here's an "inner" wheel seal: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOS15460
Looks like that's what I'm replacing. My NAPA wants $20 for it, so I'll probably shop around. Grey RTV before driving it in?

(3) Axle retainer gaskets. I found this at NAPA online (fel-pro) brand. Do I install these dry or use some grey RTV?

[Skid Row]

#1, That's a toss up? #2, Pretty sure it's the "Inner" ( Easily damaged putting them in)Thin layer of silicone, #3, I sprayed both sides of mine with "Copper Coat"

[1 Wild R/T]

Use this  https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ATP14581  tail shaft seal

And yes shop around but thats the right axle seal...

[kawahonda]

Thanks randy. I got under there and Checked. It’s the long shroud type.

My seal looks good and it doesn’t leak. Is this more of a dust seal?

They are likely going to polish the yoke. The yoke wasn’t all that bad at all. There was another 1970 challenger yoke there today that was completely rusted. This really is a good car.

Worth replacing (ordering since Napa doesn’t have it) or just run with what I have and stop fixing shit that isn’t broke?

[kawahonda]

Let me know what to replace. Nothing leaks now back here. But yes, I made some changes.

[kawahonda]

Also, did Dodge use Monroe shocks? They still work fine.

[1 Wild R/T]

If the lip area is still pliable I'd leave all three of those seals alone.....  It's easy to do more harm than good....

And the trans seal is definitely a seal.... With an outer dust boot..... 

You offered three seals as the trans seal, any one would work... One was a basic single lip seal with no dust boot... The second one was a single lip seal with a dust boot & the one I said to use is a double lip seal with a dust boot....

[RUNCHARGER]

I prefer the original look of the output seal with dust boot, you'll probably notice it has a drain hole in it that is supposed to point down.

[kawahonda]

Thanks guys. I'll likely leave all these seals alone.

Shipping my dizzy off for a recurve. Staying original, and staying with points.

I'd imagine with 3.73s and a more advanced/curved ignotinon id expect to now be in the 14s easily..

[kawahonda]

Got my axles and drive shaft back. $477..ugh! Well, at least I'll probably never have to deal with them again.

So yet again I'm tempted to replace my axle seals because they gave me a set.

What is so scary about replacing them? I'm assuming you use a seal puller, clean up the area, use some grey RTV, and use a seal driver to drive it in, and whol-a. Is there something about it that does harm vs just leaving in what I have? Just wondering...

Other than that, I'm ready to start bolting everything back up this weekend.

[1 Wild R/T]

To remove I use a large wrench 1" or larger, hook the seal with the longer side of the open end & use the housing as a fulcrum to lever the seal out....  New seal, fill the back side of the seal with grease, that prevents the garter spring from popping out when you drive the seal....   Clean the axle tube throughly, use a driver that is within 1/16th of the outer diameter of the seal... If your driver is to small the seal will collapse inward.... Driver the seal in till it hits the step, if you don't drive the seal in fully it will rub on the bearing retainer ring either damaging the seal or preventing the axle from sliding all the way into the axle....

It's not hard but there are things to look out for & I've seen more done wrong than you would believe.....

[kawahonda]

Thanks Randy. It seems like it's an EASY thing to replace in the future if there is a leak, especially since i'm not replacing my brakes yet. No harm no foul.

I'm thinking to keep the new ones in storage. Use what I have. Replace when needed.

The mopar guy made fun of me at the shop for reusing the tapered bearings.

I told him "stock, baby".

He said "have fun adjusting them!"

In all fairness, he said it's not hard, but the green bearings are better hands down. We agreed it's too late for that, since my third member is already installed.

[RUNCHARGER]

Nope: The greens are junk. The 48 year old tapered bearings are far superior to the ball bearings. The tapered are designed to accept side loads all day long and look how much bearing area there is supporting the load compared to the little ball bearings. Clean them, grease them and then spend about 1 minute adjusting them. Totally superior.
Just another case of Superior Chrysler engineering.

[1 Wild R/T]

I agree with Sheldon... FWIW I worked for a major bearing supplier for a few years, anything industrial that sees significant loads will have tapered roller bearings....  Green bearings might be easier for people that can't figure out the process of setting endplay/preload but they are not equal to and certainly not better hands down...