Main Menu

removing steering box

Started by mjb765, January 21, 2017, 12:55:27 PM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

mjb765

Pulling the p/s boox on my 70 Cuda and trying to disconnect the column. I am guessing the inner allen head is suppose to loosen up to release the coupler's hold on the shaft, but it won't move. Am I correct???  Any ideas on how to break it free?? Heat???

mjb765

here is a closer look

Cuda Cody

I've never seen a couple like that on an E-Body.   :huh:  The ones I'm use to seeing use a groove to hold the coupler on with a pin.  Since the one on your car used an allen bolt to squish the splines it might be bound on there.  But if you are sure the allen bolt is loose, you might have to pry it off?   :notsure:  You can see in this photo of a stock coupler the hole where the pin goes through to lock in the groove on the steering box.


Cuda Cody

Do you have the steering column loose?  It needs to be free so you don't collapse the steering shaft.

Cuda Cody

Not a great photo, but here's the groove I think your allen bolt is pressed against to hold it in place.  Will the allen bolt come completely out?

mjb765

the allen bolt is not loose.......wanted to be sure that was what had to happen. I tried and it's on there pretty tight. Felt like I was about to break the socket first. If that is what needs to happen I'll get the damn thing off if it kills me :pullinghair:

Roadman

Aftermarket coupler. First remove the lock nut on the allen head, then remove the allen head. Spray a little WD or what ever you have in the hole. Start tapping it with a hammer as you turn the steering wheel while pulling on the column.
Do not heat it, could cause problems with seals in the box. 


Cuda Cody

Yes, like Roadman said, that lock nut needs to be loosened or come off completely before the allen will come off. 

mjb765

Quote from: roadman on January 21, 2017, 01:22:20 PM
Aftermarket coupler. First remove the lock nut on the allen head, then remove the allen head. Spray a little WD or what ever you have in the hole. Start tapping it with a hammer as you turn the steering wheel while pulling on the column.
Do not heat it, could cause problems with seals in the box.

That's what I needed to confirm...that outside nut is a locknut. As far as causing problems with the box.....the thing is leaking like crazy which is why it is coming out and getting replaced with a Firm Feel unit.

Thanks for the info everybody!!


303 Mopar

Quote from: mjb765 on January 21, 2017, 02:20:22 PM
the thing is leaking like crazy which is why it is coming out and getting replaced with a Firm Feel unit.

Going stage III I hope.....   :andyangel:

mjb765

Quote from: 303 Mopar on January 21, 2017, 04:03:41 PM
Quote from: mjb765 on January 21, 2017, 02:20:22 PM
the thing is leaking like crazy which is why it is coming out and getting replaced with a Firm Feel unit.

Going stage III I hope.....   :andyangel:

was thinking stage II.....should I re-think?


303 Mopar

Quote from: mjb765 on January 21, 2017, 04:09:04 PM
was thinking stage II.....should I re-think?

Yes, go Stage III!  I did it on my Charger and it is a big difference and not too tight at all.  I've heard several guys that went with Stage II and wish they went III.    :bigthumb:

anlauto

Another vote for Stage III  :perfect10:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

A.Gramz

Has anybody taken one of there stage threes apart and compared to a stock box.   What do they do to the worm gear and react springs?   

anlauto

I believe it's just done with shim washers....John Stuart Power Brake in Stoney Creek ON say they can do the same thing, but they need two boxes to make one :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration