Show Me Your Sub-Frame Connectors and Torque Boxs

[Odin]

Show me your sub-frame connectors and torque boxes.

My 71 Challenger was originally a 318 car, but I've added a strong 440 magnum during restoration.  It came with the 440 already in it, but I recently rebuilt it.  It already had the heavier torsion bars installed.  I bought torque boxes and sub-frame connectors from Classic Industries almost a year ago.  I am getting close to the point of installing them, but hope to see some examples and hear from others first.  Show me what you got and send me your thoughts and advice.

[Chryco Psycho]

Not sure what you are looking for really , the parts you have can only go in one way .
I have always used a piece of 1"x 2" x.125 wall tubing , cut a notch to clear the floor pan & welded it onto the trans crossmember & the rear frame rails fast , simple & cost effective , sorry I don't have a picture .

[1 Wild R/T]

Classic sells Hotchkis subframe connectors....

I would suggest taking your car to a shop that has a wheel lift type hoist... Typically a Muffler shop is a good choice, they have the right lift & they know how to weld....

Raising it on a frame contact lift like in you picture causes the center of the car to raise while the outboard ends droop slightly..... If you weld in the subframe connectors with the car lifted that way it can cause issues.....

[GoodysGotaCuda]

What I have, I wish I went with through-the-floor connectors, however.

[jimynick]

Are the Classic bars conformal or just straight tubing? I installed the US Car Tool conformal ones and there was some fitting and grinding to get a tight, weldable fit. However, they fit in and up pretty well and welding them in the length of the floor pan surely does help rigidity. I also installed their torque boxes and frt inner apron reinforcements and it makes a difference in the cars ride and body movement. Don't know if that'll help, but good luck with it! 

[Odin]

Thank you. The tubing is solid ant won't fit with the floor pan. I wondered if I was going to need to notch them. You've helped

[Odin]

Thank you as well. There are several lifts at the shop where I'm restoring the car. There are two experienced welders there as well. Your advice is appreciated. I posted this question so people like you can give me that advice and knowing I only get one real shot at doing this right

[Odin]

The connectors from Classic are straight and boxed, not conforming. I'll have to notch portions of the top in order to get it up closer to the floor pan. I doubt I'll be able to get it conforming enough to weld the entire length.  I'll probably be limited to welding each end and a couple of spots along the sides.

[1 Wild R/T]

These are the contoured design connectors...

http://store.uscartool.com/70-74-E-Body-frame-connector-dodge-challenger.html

You might look around that website, they offer allot of products for stiffening your Mopar

[Topcat]

The connectors from Classic are straight and boxed, not conforming. I'll have to notch portions of the top in order to get it up closer to the floor pan. I doubt I'll be able to get it conforming enough to weld the entire length.  I'll probably be limited to welding each end and a couple of spots along the sides.

@Cody did it the easiest, years ago by making US Cartool cardboard templates.

After trial and errors/adjustments and then modifying; he was able to make precise connectors that would be easy to weld without issues.

I learned the hard way....On and off a 100 times. I made felt pen markings first that told me where to position off and on.

You will run into: how the brake cable will go thru on them on 71'-74' set ups.  70' was unique.

[jordan]

I rented a plasma cutter for a day to make the small adjustments to the contours.  The job went much faster than grinding.  Also, the connectors are much thicker than the floor pans, so drag the puddle from the connector to the pan to help prevent blow through when you are welding. 

[Chryco Psycho]

I notch the tubing at the lowest part of the floor bend the tube to conform to the floor & weld he notch closed & then weld each end to the frame rails

[Brads70]

I used Neil's advise on the 1x2 square tubing, but added 1" tubing every 8" . It made a significant increase in torsional rigidity.  I first clamped the tubing in my bridgeport vise and then at the end used a large adjustable to test the twist, it did twist some, I then added the round tubing tried again and couldn't move it at all . Lots of strength for the little weight added. Material cost was pretty cheap, 20-30 bucks?

[303 Mopar]

I notch the tubing at the lowest part of the floor bend the tube to conform to the floor & weld he notch closed & then weld each end to the frame rails

Mine is similar to this but we notched the subframe and slid the steel tube inside the subframe and welded them in. You can see in the pics how we notched the connector.

[rhamson]

I got mine from US Cartool and they fit pretty well. I also put in the upper wheel well supports and core support.