Wilwood 4 Disc Conversion

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Id be tempted to lose the stock prop valve. This is what I am going to use. This splits  the front and serves as the distribution block as well.

How much dive are you getting on the front? It may need dampening adjusted as well, you may be transferring too much weight to the front and unloading the rear tires too much. No matter what you do, the rears will lock in that condition very easily.

The whole car may need some dialing in for the system to work, I'm not sure what all you have tried, but I wouldn't condemn the brakes just yet. The car likely has ~55-60% of the weight on the front statically, even worse under typical braking conditions. You need to try to keep some weight on those rear tires during braking if you want the tire to grip and help slow the car. 







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[xx88man]

 

[303 Mopar]

Id be tempted to lose the stock prop valve. This is what I am going to use. This splits  the front and serves as the distribution block as well.

How much dive are you getting on the front? It may need dampening adjusted as well, you may be transferring too much weight to the front and unloading the rear tires too much. No matter what you do, the rears will lock in that condition very easily.

The whole car may need some dialing in for the system to work, I'm not sure what all you have tried, but I wouldn't condemn the brakes just yet. The car likely has ~55-60% of the weight on the front statically, even worse under typical braking conditions. You need to try to keep some weight on those rear tires during braking if you want the tire to grip and help slow the car. 

That looks like a nice set up, but I do not think I have enough room between the M/C and inner fender so it would have to mount lower where the stock distribution block is now.  I'm not getting much of a front dive at all and the rears are doing the majority of the work.  I talked to another e-body buddy here with the Wilwood set up and he said he just removed the proportion valve spring out of the stock distribution block and it made a world of difference.  That may be the first step.  Another round of bleeding brakes...

[bc3j]

I might be wrong here, but doesn't the Wilwood MCs have their primary port (front brake) to the front and secondary at the rear, where the stock style MCs have the primary (front brake) to the rear?  Could that be the problem?  Just thinking.

[1 Wild R/T]

7

I might be wrong here, but doesn't the Wilwood MCs have their primary port (front brake) to the front and secondary at the rear, where the stock style MCs have the primary (front brake) to the rear?  Could that be the problem?  Just thinking.

Just did some reading on the Wilwood website & while it's buried in the tech info & hard to find this is correct....

[303 Mopar]

I might be wrong here, but doesn't the Wilwood MCs have their primary port (front brake) to the front and secondary at the rear, where the stock style MCs have the primary (front brake) to the rear?  Could that be the problem?  Just thinking.

Talk to me Goose.....

Yes, the front res/line is for the front brakes and rear is rear.  Right now, the front line connects to the top of the distribution block and the rear to the side-front port.  Does anyone have a pic/diagram of the correct routing?  I looked online and could not find anything.

[Brads70]

I plumbed one in on my set up , but never used it, its wide open all the time. I'd add in with the things to try, is to use more aggressive pads in the front if the rear is locking up first. Sometimes the problem with the adjustable p valve is it limits fluid going in, but it also limits it going out, sometimes causing they to stay on longer than the fronts when the pedal is released. Another old circle track trick is to use different diameter lines to regulate pressure. Cars in the street stock utilized this trick when they were not allowed aftermarket p -valves. 

I might be in the same boat as you as I just swapped out my front pads to a stock pad from yellow EBC pads as they didn't work so well cold. ( Viper calipers front, DrDiff mustang calipers rear)

Also... what size master are you using?

I'm using the Wilwood master that came with the kit.  I mounted a simple adjustable proportion valve by the frame rail.

Do you still have the stock distribution and stock proportion valve?  That may be causing the issues with mine.

No I removed/deleted it

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Id be tempted to lose the stock prop valve. This is what I am going to use. This splits  the front and serves as the distribution block as well.

How much dive are you getting on the front? It may need dampening adjusted as well, you may be transferring too much weight to the front and unloading the rear tires too much. No matter what you do, the rears will lock in that condition very easily.

The whole car may need some dialing in for the system to work, I'm not sure what all you have tried, but I wouldn't condemn the brakes just yet. The car likely has ~55-60% of the weight on the front statically, even worse under typical braking conditions. You need to try to keep some weight on those rear tires during braking if you want the tire to grip and help slow the car. 

That looks like a nice set up, but I do not think I have enough room between the M/C and inner fender so it would have to mount lower where the stock distribution block is now.  I'm not getting much of a front dive at all and the rears are doing the majority of the work.  I talked to another e-body buddy here with the Wilwood set up and he said he just removed the proportion valve spring out of the stock distribution block and it made a world of difference.  That may be the first step.  Another round of bleeding brakes...

I haven't mounted it but a quick hold against the firewall, it looks like I have plenty of clearance.


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[HP_Cuda]

I have the same setup as Brad on the pvalve and it works fairly well.

The downside I have now is not enough vacuum at idle. So either hydroboost (which is backlogged for 6 months) or vacuum pump.

ughhhh

[303 Mopar]

The downside I have now is not enough vacuum at idle. So either hydroboost (which is backlogged for 6 months) or vacuum pump.
ughhhh

Hydroboost all the way.  You do not want a vacuum pump, trust me on this one.

[HP_Cuda]

Yeah I hear ya, looks like I have to put in my order and wait.

[Chryco Psycho]

The reservoir nearest the firewall is always the front brakes & the one away from the firewall is rear you want approx 70% of the pressure to the front brakes
I used the same Master Goody is using on 1 build it never worked right pdal would go to the floor on the first application every time , added residual pressure valves ,tried everything  finally tossed it in the trash

[GoodysGotaCuda]

The reservoir nearest the firewall is always the front brakes & the one away from the firewall is rear you want approx 70% of the pressure to the front brakes

Not quite








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[303 Mopar]

The reservoir nearest the firewall is always the front brakes & the one away from the firewall is rear you want approx 70% of the pressure to the front brakes

Not quite

  On the Wilwood M/C the front res is for the front brakes.  BTW, I ordered the Wilwood distro/proportion valve (wilwood 260-11179) and will install in a week or two.  And will bleed the brakes again   

[GoodysGotaCuda]

This setup is close to the inner fender, may require two 90° fittings for the front lines, but that's not too bad.


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