Main Menu

A.G.A.R. This just in....THE END !

Started by anlauto, December 05, 2020, 01:26:32 PM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

cudaragtop

Quote from: anlauto on February 01, 2021, 01:01:17 PM
Next up was the unit itself....again, just fab'd a mounting bracket with two mounting studs and plug welded it to the transmission crossmember...and two more studs welded through the floor. Drill an access hole for the wiring in the cross member and the floor right above...

It now sits level with the rocker and maybe an 1/2" lower them the pinch weld...I figure the exhaust will be a lot lower...

Looks Good Alan!

I was looking into changing the Parking brake in our 69 project car to a hand brake on the floor next to the driver's seat and also looked at the E-Stop but have not pulled the trigger on either yet...
Three questions:
1. Is the E-Stop as loud, slow and sound as annoying in person as in their videos? The beeping would drive me nuts.
2. Does the light in the button stay on even after you turn the key off?
3. Does it draw current when parked and the E-Brake is on and the key is off?

Thanks,

Randy

- Randy D. 1970 'Cuda 340 4-Speed Convertible
69 Barracuda G3 Hemi/8HP70 Resto-Mod Project Album: https://goo.gl/photos/XjsAsx4LDo7psimU8

anlauto

1. I have no idea how loud, but the speaker is a separate piece...I'm thinking some tape over it should quite it down, if not wire cutters will for sure work. :rofl:
2. You wire it to power on with the key, so I can't see the light staying on :thinking:  I think one of the videos said the light goes out.

3. After it's engaged, I don't believe it draws any more power to stay engaged.

Your guess is as good as mine....I'll know a lot more when the car is finished. :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

dodj

Quote from: cudaragtop on February 03, 2021, 10:47:23 AM
Quote from: anlauto on February 01, 2021, 01:01:17 PM
Next up was the unit itself....again, just fab'd a mounting bracket with two mounting studs and plug welded it to the transmission crossmember...and two more studs welded through the floor. Drill an access hole for the wiring in the cross member and the floor right above...

It now sits level with the rocker and maybe an 1/2" lower them the pinch weld...I figure the exhaust will be a lot lower...

Looks Good Alan!

I was looking into changing the Parking brake in our 69 project car to a hand brake on the floor next to the driver's seat and also looked at the E-Stop but have not pulled the trigger on either yet...
Three questions:
1. Is the E-Stop as loud, slow and sound as annoying in person as in their videos? The beeping would drive me nuts.
2. Does the light in the button stay on even after you turn the key off?
3. Does it draw current when parked and the E-Brake is on and the key is off?

Thanks,

Randy
The 'beeper' can be muffled or disconnected.
The light turns off
It draws no current after it locks in place.

Looks good Alan. You have it mounted quite similar to mine other than the brackets on mine are off the frame connectors rather than the crossmember. And mine is on the passenger side. I removed the cigar lighter and put the estopp button in it's place. Perfect fit.
I ordered Lokar cables to go from the estopp to the brake assy. They come 8' long and you cut to fit. They come complete with the attachment hware needed to attach to the backing plate.
If you didn't do it already, install a 10 amp inline fuse on the +ve feed to the control box.
:alan2cents:
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill


anlauto

Copycat ....Copycat !!! :P
The location of my heater hose bulkhead may look familiar...I stole the idea from member @cudaragtop and his Barracuda build.
Randy was also nice enough to supply me with not only the part numbers, but a link as to where to buy them as well :worship:

Unlike Randy's A Body, the E Bodies have plenty of room inside the cowl....So I plan to hide the rest of the heater hose along with the electronic water control valve for the Vintage Air inside the cowl. I figure it won't be the easiest to assemble, but it will be uptight and outta sight once finished 8)

Just looking at my welding job on the firewall.... :'( thank goodness for "body work" yet to come  :haha:

Also made a platform along side the condenser to mount a bulkhead for the two AC compressor lines...Chrysler was kind enough to put the AC compressor down low on the driver's side  :crazytalk:  Just looking over these pictures I realized I have to notch the radiator side brace as well :headbang:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

anlauto

Got the marker light assembled today too, with the housings I bought here from member @70vert   :worship: and a fresh coat of paint...
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Shoooter

what colour and brand do you use for the side markers?

anlauto

The marker lights themselves come from PG Classics...
The rear housings were glass beaded and sprayed with RATTLE CAN Tremclad satin Clear.
The front housings were glass beaded, sprayed with RATTLE CAN Dupli-colour GOLD followed by the same satin clear.

Of course there are plenty of better ways to finish these housings, either with the proper plating or even powder coating....but I like cheaper simpler methods...the fronts will get blasted with undercoating on this particular car anyways.

Thanks for asking  :drinkingbud:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


anlauto

Each housing has six little barbs to aid in the grounding of the light. I mask up these areas and leave them bare metal. :alan2cents: (you can kind of make it out on the fronts)
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

cudaragtop

Quote from: anlauto on February 05, 2021, 03:58:26 PM
Copycat ....Copycat !!! :P
The location of my heater hose bulkhead may look familiar...I stole the idea from member @cudaragtop and his Barracuda build.
Randy was also nice enough to supply me with not only the part numbers, but a link as to where to buy them as well :worship:

Unlike Randy's A Body, the E Bodies have plenty of room inside the cowl....So I plan to hide the rest of the heater hose along with the electronic water control valve for the Vintage Air inside the cowl. I figure it won't be the easiest to assemble, but it will be uptight and outta sight once finished 8)

Just looking at my welding job on the firewall.... :'( thank goodness for "body work" yet to come  :haha:

Also made a platform along side the condenser to mount a bulkhead for the two AC compressor lines...Chrysler was kind enough to put the AC compressor down low on the driver's side  :crazytalk:  Just looking over these pictures I realized I have to notch the radiator side brace as well :headbang:

It's a beauty way to go eh!  :twothumbsup:

- Randy D. 1970 'Cuda 340 4-Speed Convertible
69 Barracuda G3 Hemi/8HP70 Resto-Mod Project Album: https://goo.gl/photos/XjsAsx4LDo7psimU8

soundcontrol

Quote from: anlauto on February 05, 2021, 07:43:37 PM
Each housing has six little barbs to aid in the grounding of the light. I mask up these areas and leave them bare metal. :alan2cents: (you can kind of make it out on the fronts)

Do they really need grounding? Isn't one of the leads to the bulb a ground?

anlauto

Quote from: soundcontrol on February 06, 2021, 02:29:33 AM
Quote from: anlauto on February 05, 2021, 07:43:37 PM
Each housing has six little barbs to aid in the grounding of the light. I mask up these areas and leave them bare metal. :alan2cents: (you can kind of make it out on the fronts)

Do they really need grounding? Isn't one of the leads to the bulb a ground?

YES you are correct, one of the leads at the front is a ground. I just like to be well grounded  :rofl:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


cudaragtop

Grounds or lack of, on these cars are notorious for wiring/electrical issues...
Since the rear markers are just one wire bulb sockets I added a ground wire to insure a good ground.
You can't have too many good grounds.

Not to be confused with dead shorts!


- Randy D. 1970 'Cuda 340 4-Speed Convertible
69 Barracuda G3 Hemi/8HP70 Resto-Mod Project Album: https://goo.gl/photos/XjsAsx4LDo7psimU8

anlauto

I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Shoooter

are the cuda marker lights prone to the same issues?

anlauto

Quote from: Shoooter on February 06, 2021, 08:33:46 AM
are the cuda marker lights prone to the same issues?

They all depend on the housing to ground to the body. :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration