A.G.A.R. This just in....THE END !

[anlauto]

The only thing I'm curious about you welding up is the holes for the heater.  I'm also wanting to do the vintage air A/C in my car.  I just assumed that would use the existing holes.  I will follow along and see how it's done!


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Yes..The ClassicAir and VintageAir kits include a "block-off" plate for the existing holes in the firewall whether you have a factory A/C car or not.
The last 71 Cuda I did used a ClassicAir system....I don't recommend that brand whatsoever. It came with a cheesy plastic cover that covers the existing large hole and gives you four new holes for the new AC system.

My plan is to NOT use an ugly block-off plate, but now to just drill the four new holes in the location "I" want. I once did another car using the bulkhead connectors shown by Mr. Thumper, and pushing the new AC box all the way over to the PS ....and ran the hoses in the wheel well.

[anlauto]

Here's the plastic "block-off" plate included in the ClassicAir kit for a NON-AC car. I'm not a fan.
This car came to me painted, and the customer supplied the kit, so I didn't have much input.

[Swamp Donkey]

Thanks.  Those pictures really help explain everything.


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[anlauto]

Thanks.  Those pictures really help explain everything.


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Yea, so even if I install the new box in the same location as the purple car above, it will look much nicer with just four clean holes drill in my nice new flat firewall instead of using the provided plate...in my opinion...

[soundcontrol]

Yep, don't look good with the included plastic cover. Need to weld up my hole also. @YellowThumper, do you know if those bulkhead connectors fits the Vintage air kit direct?

[YellowThumper]

@soundcontrol I do not know explicitly.
However they are Vintage Air pieces so I would have to assume they have a proper one for it.

@anlauto I concur with the not recommending classic air.
Don't know specifically for an Ebody.  But I installed their system on a 68 Mustang. A car that is massively generic.
I had to modify EVERYTHING to make it fit and work.
Every engine mount bracket. Firewall cap (cheesey) was not proper. All hose connections under dash had to be reformed. Even the controls were crap. I modified my factory piece to work.
Their customer service blamed the engine fit issues on it being modified. Every part of setup is factory. Nothing aftermarket.
Then they blamed hole mismatching on my heads being milled from rebuild. Once they stated that load of tripe I hung up on them and vowed never to talk well of them again.
Some holes were off location over 1/2". Had to add 3/8" thick washers to several brackets for proper alignments as well.
!@#$%^&*()

Sorry Alan
Back to your thread.

[anlauto]

Absolutely the worst job ever, but a very necessary step in my opinion...before any restoration starts, after you strip the car apart, you need to have it media blasted....HOWEVER BEFORE it can be media blasted, you should remove all that old grungy factory undercoat....I was so fortunate to have a car that came with the optional factory undercoat...that means having to scrap the entire floor pan after about ten hours with a propane torch and a scraper over about five days...it's finally done...

Found that the car before it in the paint shop was orange...cool 'cause the car is going to be orange

[soundcontrol]

Whats holding the car at that angle?

[anlauto]

Magic 

[Swamp Donkey]

I'm almost to the undercoating removal stage now.  I thought that could just be media blasted off.  Going to see if I can track down a rotisserie today. 


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[anlauto]

I'm almost to the undercoating removal stage now.  I thought that could just be media blasted off.  Going to see if I can track down a rotisserie today. 


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Yes, it likely could be media blasted off....but if your media blaster charges by the hour, look out, it will take twice as much time to blast it and it will cause a great deal of heat build up.

If you plan is to do it yourself, I think you will quickly learn how much extra time and media it will take.

[JS29]

  Better to remove it by hand.   

[Brads70]

I just did a pile of undercoating removal on my Javelin project. What a horrible job. I found this wire wheel on a disc grinder to work really well.  Works well at seams also as you can turn it sideways and really dig in and make it work.. 

https://www.kbctools.ca/itemdetail?itemcode=1-619-49639

[RUNCHARGER]

This came of so fast it made my head spin and no mess. Might not work at 30c but it sure works in 10c and under.

[Cuda Cody]

Maybe don't waste the magic on holding the car and instead use the "magic" to get the undercoating off?      

But really, how are you holding it up like that?  Is it safe?  Or at least somewhat safe?

Magic