Rebel's Fix Thread

[Rev-It-Up]

If I can help while I am there next week I am happy to 

  Wow, that's incredibly generous of you. Thanks for the offer.

If I was in Savannah with my car this week, I might take you up on it. I'm actually in Monroe until the 4th.

He will be in Loganville starting on the 4th. Do you have your car in Monroe?

[rebelyell]

You know.. I think I knew what he meant. I don't know what I was thinking when I replied. I knew he was going to be up here. Anyway.. sorry to say that my car is in Savannah. Let me look around a bit to see where/when you guys are meeting and I might be able to drive by.

[rebelyell]

I screwed up the intake gasket install this weekend. Put on the gaskets with the belly pan in between the four of them, put rtv on the block, bolted the pan in place, put rtv on the top of the gasket, and when I went to set the intake on the car I noticed that the new belly pan gasket was different from the old one.

See how there's a hole in the middle on each side? WEEELLLL, the one I just bolted to the car didn't have it.


Cleaned off the (dried) rtv as best I could, used the old belly pan gasket, slapped some more rtv on there and bolted it up. Needless to say the car won't run right anymore, so I'm going to take it apart again when I get the new gasket in. Seems to have developed a miss and the exhaust just sounds wrong. Time consuming lesson learned in checking parts before bolting them on.

Since I have to replace the gasket again, I'm considering buying one of these...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7193/overview/make/dodge


Also, I have to drill and tap the head for a new valve cover bolt seeing as the previous owner broke that one. But it's ok... it's in the back up under the firewall.

[RUNCHARGER]

You can usually re-use those gaskets, maybe it's been done before. Had you considered drilling the new one? It sounds like the heat crossover passage was missing, that is a common mod for warm climate cars but the automatic choke won't work correctly.

[rebelyell]

That's exactly what it was. Heat crossover passage was missing. I've read that it almost needs to be blocked off for an aluminum intake and it essentially makes it a warm weather motor. Didn't know it affected the auto choke.

I used the old belly pan gasket to get it back together, but it doesn't run right.

[RUNCHARGER]

The choke well coil is heated by the air in that passage, when it gets warm the coil expands and pulls the choke off. I would just drill the hole in the new gasket but it sounds like you have one coming anyway. Did the old gasket you took off use the paper gaskets? I wouldn't bother with them if it didn't use them before.

[rebelyell]

I'm going to pull the paper gaskets, RTV the hell out of everything, and reuse the old gasket.

Old gasket was just RTV, but it leaked.

[Chryco Psycho]

That is exactly why I gave you that part # it blocks the heat crossover & the engine will run better except got eh first 2 minutes while it warms up , you can use an electric choke if you feel you need a choke .
I basically always block the crossover , it is hard enough to get these car to start with todays junk fuel  when they are warm anyway without overheating the carb with exhaust heat running below them .
Also silicone is not good around fuel either , I will use a little below the ports to keep the oil out but do not go crazy

[rebelyell]

Guess I freaked out over nothing. That's good information to know. I had read somewhere that an aluminum intake gets the most from blocking that off. I'm tempted to just spend the 315 and get a new intake, but then I have to make sure the rest of the setup is matched to it when all I want to do is put in a new hemi. May just buy another gasket and be done with it now that I know it's supposed to be that way.

[Chryco Psycho]

Sorry I did not give you more info upfront , I gave you the part # because that is what would work best but if you do not understand why I made the mistake .
If you need help installing a 3rd gen Hemi I have done that & I am glad to help .

[rebelyell]

Nothing to be sorry about! I appreciate the help. Looks like I'll get the new gasket next week and get to it a few days after that.

[rebelyell]

This week is going to be installing the new temp gauge and tachometer as well as replacing the intake gasket. Here goes nothing. 

Also edited OP

[rebelyell]

Temp gauge installed and functional. Tach kinda installed (need to fab a bracket so I can mount with a hose clamp) and functional.

I think the valve cover gaskets were the source of my oil leak. I'll run them through one more heat cycle tomorrow on the way to work and tighten everything down at lunch. Everything is working great and I'm having a bit of fun now. Turns out the "miss" was one of my spark plug wires grounding on the exhaust manifold. 

Now I'm going to Fix the water leak on the windshield and trunk while saving for the Dakota Digital rallye gauge conversion (new dash wiring harness?) and maybe get the shifter rebuilt.

Edited OP again.

[rebelyell]

I'm going to go ahead and tackle this problem. Drove the car yesterday and again noticed that when I come to a stop, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero for a few seconds. After the oil has a change to settle back down, the gauge comes back up again. Outside of getting a new oil pan and pump, do yall have any idea how to fix this? The dipstick still reads on the high side of safe, so to keep from getting the pressure drop I fill it a little higher than usual.

[Cuda Cody]

It's normal for hot oil pressure to drop to a lower PSI when idling compared to running at higher RMP.  Before you change anything mechanical, are you sure the oil pressure gauge is accurate and you have the correct dip stick length?