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[MikeMikeMike]

 Thanks @anlauto !

[MikeMikeMike]

Just got my date correct thermoquad 4973s back from @ScottSmith_Harms . Looks AMAZING. My only problem is that its too pretty to cover with an air cleaner! Nice work getting that sheered screw out.
Thanks Scott 

[larry4406]

Just got my date correct thermoquad 4973s back from @ScottSmith_Harms . Looks AMAZING. My only problem is that its too pretty to cover with an air cleaner! Nice work getting that sheered screw out.
Thanks Scott 

And no pictures? We like pictures.

[Convertcuda]

Which weather stripping are you looking for?

Ken

[ScottSmith_Harms]

Hi Mike,

Thank you! I really appreciate your business and trusting me to restore your rare carburetor, I'm glad you like it!

[MikeMikeMike]

Ta da. before and after...
Should be noted that @ScottSmith_Harms  swapped out some incorrect parts with harder to find, date correct parts and offered to replate (for free) some parts that were badly pitted if I find better examples. I kinda like the pits though, like my steering wheel, it shows some history and age while still looking bright and sharp 

[MikeMikeMike]

The piece that rides above the drivers door glass... here is the pic showing the passenger side... Thanks.

[MikeMikeMike]

After years of using Eastwood rattle cans I tried zinc plating a few months back and it was kind of a pain for a novice like me to get right and even and the chromate is pretty nasty stuff so I decided to try powder coating. I gotta say I wish I had started doing this years ago. I wish I had more parts around that needed to be black gray or clear. Parts below are satin clear, semi gloss black and "chrome" which isn't a bad match for zinc plated.

[larry4406]

Nice!  Show us your powder coating setup please.

[MikeMikeMike]

Will do. In the mean time basically I bought the Eastwood 2 phase powder gun and about 8 bottles of powder to mess around with.

I went to harbor freight and got a couple in line filters and a regulator with a gauge. Already have an air compressor.

Got an old toaster oven off the appliance graveyard shelf in my barn.

Got a cheap IR thermometer off amazon. 

Its pretty easy once you zero in on the proper temp for the toaster. I have my eye out for an old kitchen oven so I can start doing bigger parts. I love that I can bolt the part on about an hour after painting it. Also I have basically had no issues where as rattle cans sometimes don't dry completely, react with base coats badly, drip or run, etc. If I was better with a can I'm sure I'd have fewer issues but for me this method is easiest. Heck, I might blast parts I've already painted just to do them in powder.

Tomorrow I also will be installing the convertible top frame so I'm getting excited for that.

Also, I just got back my tail lenses today that the painter tested the gibson restorations organosol on them. Here's how they compare with the hood of an AAR that the owner told me was sprayed with an original organosol mixture a few years ago. Didn't know paint would survive that long on the shelf, but anyway... the original looks a bit rougher but I may be being just too anal about this also.

@Cuda Cody maybe you can post a close up of your method that you posted on youtube to compare? Maybe your method looks a little closer. My painter watched your video too and isn't used to all these mopar grill and tail colors I keep throwing at him. 

[MikeMikeMike]

Also, if you are thinking of doing zinc plating here's some results... brake part top = wire brushed rust, middle = electrolysis rust removal filled in pits a little, bottom = zinc plated (no chromate).
Convertible pins, after plating and after buffing with chrome polish (fine abrasive).

I found it extremely difficult to get even coverage on anything that 'cast shadows' on itself because the zinc liked to travel a straight path to the surface. Also didn't work well on large parts because the distance from the electrode was too extreme in many areas. And finally, didn't match the original zinc sheen the same. It was fun to experiment though.

[Tunis]

The flow of the current in the bath is important. Stirring the mixture should help get better coverage if I understand it correctly. Also putting more anodes (or cathodes?) in there should help to create more currents to make it cover the part better. I have never tried but will do so when I'm at that stage in my restoration.

Per

[MikeMikeMike]

What I ended up doing is switching to a small round container with an aquarium bubbler agitating and lining the inner walls with a ring of zinc flashing. It worked ok but still won't reach inside a tube or something like that.

[Roadman]

The piece that rides above the drivers door glass... here is the pic showing the passenger side... Thanks.

               Searching, begging the WORLDWIDE WEB.  I betcha @CudamanTom  has one, but he's MIA.   

[MikeMikeMike]

Powder coating setup pics... nothing fancy here... the booth has a vent fan but works better without. The paper makes cleanup easier so powders don't mix on the part.