Engine Oil

[chargerdon]

Buddy of mine says that we HAVE to use 10W-30 or heavier oil WITH zinc additive such as Valvoline VR1 with my 74 Challenger and its 360 hyudraulic flat tappet valves, or risk ruining the camshaft.  Now that stuff is expensive!!  Especially with a 7 qt pan. 

Now, maybe i'm stupid, and i know that oil from the 60-70's had zinc in it, and today's modern oils do not.   However, it would seem to me that today's modern oils especially synthetic oils without zinc additive will protect as well if not better than the stuff made in the 60's and 70's.   Surely technology on oil has improved !!   

I have been using NAPA's own synthetic oils in a 10-30w blend.   

Opinions??   

[Shane Kelley]

New oils are formulated for newer engines and have roller lifters.  It's more a EPA thing taking the zinc out. Flat tappet
cams need the zinc to survive. Your taking a big risk running it without. Like the commercials say "it's the lifeblood of the engine". Look at it this way. How many miles are really going to drive it a year and how many times will you need to change the oil? Probably twice at most. Put you some good high quality oil with high zinc in it along with a quality filter. Not worth the risk of having a cam go down. I run Lucas Hot Rod oil or Driven HR1. Both have high zinc and Wix oil filters. 

[Jay Bee]

Here's a thread on the topic in case you missed it.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/lets-talk-oil-and-filters/2903/

The shop the rebuilt mine recommended Rotella T and 1/2 bottle of Comp Cams Engine Break In Additive. Not that expensive an oil change especially since it"s done only once a year. With your deep pan, maybe use a whole bottle of the additive.

[70 Challenger Lover]

I know a guy who builds a lot of racing motors in addition to his regular auto parts store. He swears by using oil with high zinc in older engines. I use Kendall in all of my stuff and love it. Little extra expense but I'd rather not risk any problems down the road.

[Chryco Psycho]

The best oil to use is SJ rated , the last oil that will keep the cam alive is SL , anything SM OR SN will kill the cam
20-50 w oils are still SL rated & will work but they are too heavy IMO , it robs HP & the engine shoould be built with slightly more brg clearance using 20-50
One trick is to use agriculture oils , if it is for offroad use you have a lot of SJ or SL oils available in all weights .
Personally I use 10-30 or 10-40 weight oils but try to always find SJ oil , the other option is using cam additives as above or using specially formulated oils such as Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs oils , I used to distribute Z-Alt too but it is no longer made unfortunatly 

[Flatdad]

The only things I know for sure are what has worked for me.

In a 440 with stock valvesprings and a mild summit hydraulic flat tappet cam, I ran the cheapest farm store oil I could find. 10k miles later, pulled the cam and lifters, they're still like new, getting reused in a 400 build.

In a 360, similar cam and springs (i didn't build it), also ran cheapest oil available. After about 10k miles and neglecting to change oil for 5k miles it never wiped. Sold car, its still a runner driver as far as I know.

In a Hemi, semi-aggressive beehive springs, mild solid flat tappet cam. Ran strictly VR1 for the first couple oil changes. Recently, I cut it to half cheap oil, half VR1 and it hasn't made a lick of difference.

Because of these 3 experiences, I'm of the opinion that for near-stock cams and springs that are already broken in, the level of zinc compound just doesn't matter very much.

I had a hydraulics professor in college tell me the purpose of the zinc compound (zinc-phosphorus?) in motor oil was to help the oil cling to the smooth machined/polished surfaces. The reason It has been reduced so much is it ruins the catalyst in the catalytic converters if it goes through the exhaust.

BUT, as some have already said, running the "good" oil isn't THAT expensive, and its cheap insurance in the long run.

[Chryco Psycho]

 
Expensive oil is cheap compared to an engine !!

[Shane Kelley]

Expensive oil is cheap compared to an engine !!

[303 Mopar]

I have a .535 Lunati cam and run Lucas Hot Rod 10-30 high zinc oil - https://lucasoil.com/products/hot-rod-high-performance/hot-rod-classic-car-10w-30-motor-oil

[Roadman]

Valvoline VR1 is the same price, give or take 50cents, than all the other stuff on the shelf here. Been using it for years, never had a cam fail.    Protect your investment.   

[Topcat]

Joe Gibbs oil was on sale on Summit recently. $7.99 a Qt.
Brad Penn oil is a little more $.

[RUNCHARGER]

I like the Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn as well. You need zinc in a flat tappet engine. 10-30 is what I like to use as well. The Comp Cams additive gets thrown in as well. A lost cam lobe means an engine teardown at best.

[redgum78]

As others have said I think good oil is cheap in the long run.
However if your are chasing a cheap high zinc alternative, fleet type diesel engine oil might be worth looking at.

I wouldn't run it in an expensive built engine but I do use it in any older flat tappet engine that I get my hands on (say I pick up an old car with a running engine in it).

[Flatdad]

Who HAS wiped a cam? What doesn't work? THAT is the most useful info we can have in a thread like this.

Sometimes I think this "high zinc oil" business is the classic car enthusiast's version of Brawndo. I'm not going to buy into it being beneficial until I see some scientific testing done.

[blown motor]

Who HAS wiped a cam? What doesn't work? THAT is the most useful info we can have in a thread like this.

Sometimes I think this "high zinc oil" business is the classic car enthusiast's version of Brawndo. I'm not going to buy into it being beneficial until I see some scientific testing done.

Good question.
What exactly is "lost a cam lobe"? Just some wear which effects the lift or duration?