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Interior Plastic Restoration Journey

Started by kawahonda, October 21, 2020, 05:57:24 PM

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mopar jack

I just dyed (painted) many interior panels on my 71 road runner with the tan paint listed from Herbs and it worked great. I recommend you test spray for correct color match on the back of the panels as they are usually not faded and close to correct, of course they are 50 years old.

kawahonda

#31
Quote from: mopar jack on October 27, 2020, 08:22:23 PM
I just dyed (painted) many interior panels on my 71 road runner with the tan paint listed from Herbs and it worked great. I recommend you test spray for correct color match on the back of the panels as they are usually not faded and close to correct, of course they are 50 years old.

That's what the pictures show. Sprayed on an area that got zero sun, which is same color as backside.

Either way, doesn't matter. I am painting over a black or white retextured surface.

Herbs will not work.

Many will be spraying white or black Metro (or injection molded panels). Herbs will not work, at least for this specific color either for the same reasons!

Let me say it this way. Spraying herbs DIRECTLY on your factory colored stuff seems to be close (still not exact --again, it's a darker shade or two, and it doesn't have any sheen). I am not spraying on factory panted stuff. I am restoring the panels. This is a restoration thread fellas, not a "spray paint on stuff and see what happens thread" :)

This thread isn't for people that want to see results of spraying dye on damaged panels. I do not do that type of work. This thread is finding a method to make panels complete and solid again, retexturing and releveling AND with correct color on top the textured substrate.

We wouldn't need this thread if it's about "Can herbs dye match when I spray if over my current color"? The answer is "mostly", but the answer is "NO" when you retexture!

My textured chip resembles the exact materials and processes that I will use to recreate these panels. The chip is what matters, not the panels.

If I get the chip to show 95% or better match, then we are there fellas. Right now, herbs is not even in the same ballpark. Herbs will NOT work for this restoration process, which is the first posted that I've seen any mopar site.

Stay tuned.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

This is the best case I can do with my texturing.

I will spray it with paint shop's plastic/vinyl mix tomorrow to see how it compares to "herbs"

1970 Dodge Challenger A66


soundcontrol

@kawahonda, Since english is not my first language, speaking of the texture, exactly what do you mean by "knocking it down"?

dodj

Quote from: soundcontrol on October 28, 2020, 02:16:33 AM
@kawahonda, Since english is not my first language, speaking of the texture, exactly what do you mean by "knocking it down"?
Means a very light sanding to 'knock down' the peaks in the texture.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

kawahonda

#35
Sprayed out my custom mix today. It is MUCH closer than herbs. It even has the correct semi/satin sheet to it, where Herbs is flat.

I'm going to have her add more yellow. Considering to just spray the next revision since it's pretty close right now. I may however go through and make another chip to assure. The idea is to get it close enough to where you wouldn't know if...you didn't know. I feel like the latest chip is sort of approaching that category. Just a little too red.

Happy with the fine texture too. It's not OEM correct, but again, nice!

Btw, this stuff covered well in only 2-3 coats.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

Cuda_mark

It looks like you pretty much nailed it on the color/finish.


Mopar5

What is the paint system? 2K Urethane with flex additive? Or something different?

Yellow71Cuda

  :cheers: What you are doing by going through this process is really to be commended.  To share each step with us the way you are is that much more amazing. 

I really appreciate your desire to figure out a process to restore these interior panels to a level most of us would be more than happy to achieve, as we all know perfect reproductions are not in existence...at any price. 

I know I speak for all here when I say Thank You for starting this process, starting this thread, and posting your hard work and progress.   :cheers:   

kawahonda

I dropped off the seat back, my chip, and the sample paint to the paint store. She's going to dial it in to exactness. Just like a thought-add a little more yellow. Supposedly with this dye-stuff, when you spray, it's advantageous to use as much of it as possible. My initial plan of doing a couple panels at a time isn't optimal as doing them all at once. Basically, it's a non-hardening paint/dye, and the colors (red oxide and yellow) will want to separate, so you have to constantly mix and stir.

The purpose of interior dye/paint is to penetrate the substrate, so it really isn't a "paint coating." This theoretically means once it's correctly applied, if you "scratch" the panel you should not reveal any other color than what you died it with. I'm planning to test that out with the paint chip when I get it back.

No interior paint/dye to my knowledge comes in 2k. Supposedly it doesn't need it, so you can feel safe to use a quality SEM rattle can. :)  I'm buying a quart using a different system than SEM, so I will be using my paint gun to spray it. Price is pretty high at $100 a quart. I'll post details on it later, and perhaps share the correct burnt orange color formula.

I removed the worst offender today which is my driver's door panel. It's the worst offender not necessarily for it's caulking, but because there is a warped area on the bottom (which I'm sure is common). First thing is I want to solve that. My gut check is to use a heat gun, give it pressure, and let it cool all the way down. My passenger's door panel bottom section is straight.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

Mrbill426

https://www.semproducts.com/product/texture-coating/39853#product-videos


Quote from: mopar jack on October 25, 2020, 11:48:48 AM
not sure what he is using but there are texture paints available. I bought this one but haven't tried it yet. This one should give an organisol type texture.


kawahonda

Been busy.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

Mrbill426


kawahonda

#43
Ebody panels use an inverted, or sunk in texture. It is impossible to replicate it as I've mentioned.  SEM instructional video will also imply it.

You just want something that's close. By close I mean anything that is "fine" will work. My last post showed the lightest drop texture yet where I didn't sand much. It's a little too fine, but not far off. e-body panels are flat...you will want to sand a little bit more during "drop" texture phase...somewhere inbetween this chip and last chip. it will never look right, keep in mind. But you will retain original panels...Texture isn't noticeable unless you look for it.

More importantly, I wanted you guys to see an amazing mix of the latest Burnt Orange. Can't get closer than that!

The last chip is the closest possible you will ever get. But keep in mind that's a 3" chip. There is simply just a "chance" occurrence when using a rattle can when spraying the whole thing.

Stay tuned. I will provide more instructional things. You guys are seeing the sausage making.

I have no problem right now saying that texture won't match OEM. I've accepted and stated this from the start. Most won't care. You keep your original panels and you save thousands of dollars and I think I'd get plenty of thumb's up stating that....
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

All panels are finished.

Dry fitted the panel I straightened on car. Seems fixed.

I'm in the process of cleaning right now.

If I stay on schedule, then these will be in epoxy tomorrow.

Texture Monday

Dye on Tuesday.

I am worn out.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66