Header and idler arm clearance

[usraptor]

1970 'Cuda 440, stock rebuilt front suspension, QA1 non-adjustable shocks, new motor mounts, TTI 1-7/8" headers.  As can be seen in the attached pictures, my idler arm is rubbing/hitting my TTI headers.  TTI doesn't say anything about interference issues on their web-site.  Before I take a hammer to the headers to dimple them, does anybody have any suggestions as to how to increase the clearance between the two?    In doing an internet search, I see that while not a common problem it is also not an uncommon one either.  One of the most common suggested solutions is to use a Moog idler arm which is what I have, yet they still hit.  Is there any suspension adjustment I can make to solve this issue? 
Any and all other suggestions are welcome.  I really don't want to take a hammer to my new headers.   

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Instead of using a hammer, i have successfully used a ball joint press or similar large "C" along with a half-moon from an exhaust clamp to move tubes. It's easier to do on the car, if you can get to it...those headers are thick and take a hard hit to dent with a hammer.

[screamindriver]

 I'm looking at an idler arm in the pic you've posted but the title states pitman arm is the trouble... Are they both hitting ???  If it is the pitman arm hitting you're committed to massaging the tubes...First check the drag link and  see if it's level between the pitman arm and the idler arm...Ideally it should be dead level but depending on the aftermarket parts it might not be...
      If it's the idler arm giving the trouble you can possibly adjust it down a touch by loosening the bolt and trying to get some clearance then re-tighten.. If it's got the washers for the shaft you could get different washers and offset the arm that way to gain clearance also...And as a last resort to NOT denting the header I've seen where some have filed the mounting hole so you can adjust it down but as I've stated earlier you don't want to create a situation where the drag link is too far from level when  the link is centered...

[usraptor]

I'm looking at an idler arm in the pic you've posted but the title states pitman arm is the trouble... Are they both hitting ???  If it is the pitman arm hitting you're committed to massaging the tubes...First check the drag link and  see if it's level between the pitman arm and the idler arm...Ideally it should be dead level but depending on the aftermarket parts it might not be...
      If it's the idler arm giving the trouble you can possibly adjust it down a touch by loosening the bolt and trying to get some clearance then re-tighten.. If it's got the washers for the shaft you could get different washers and offset the arm that way to gain clearance also...And as a last resort to NOT denting the header I've seen where some have filed the mounting hole so you can adjust it down but as I've stated earlier you don't want to create a situation where the drag link is too far from level when  the link is centered...

Scremindriver, you are correct, I got the two mixed up in my old age.  It is the idler arm that is hitting, not the pitman arm. Corrections made to my post. Thanks for the heads up. 

[1 Wild R/T]

Another thing to look at is the condition of the motor mount, the passenger side mount is often compressed, a new mount might raise that side a little & thats all you need is a little....

[Chryco Psycho]

you can take a die grinder to the lower hole for the idler oval it slightly towards the K frame & tip the idler arm down away from the header 

[1 Wild R/T]

you can take a die grinder to the lower hole for the idler oval it slightly towards the K frame & tip the idler arm down away from the header

You can... It will effect steering geometry.. Whether it effects it in a good or bad way would require more study...LOL.... If you do choose to do this the normal way to make sure the slotted hole doesn't allow the bolt to slide is to add a washer & tack weld the washer to the K member...

[HP2]

Yes, but re-angling the pitman an equal amount to restore geometry is easily accomplished with shims, whereas re-angling the idler requires grinding.

In fact, depending on how close the idler is, and it looks pretty minimal, it might gain just enough clearance by dropping the pitman angle instead. It isn't ideal, but I've seen plenty of stock mopars with these angles that don't match and it has a minimal impact on normal street driving.

In the thought of a new motor mount, you could also shim the engine block up slightly with the mount on that side. Add a washer or two to one of the isolator bolts.

[usraptor]

Another thing to look at is the condition of the motor mount, the passenger side mount is often compressed, a new mount might raise that side a little & thats all you need is a little....

1Wild R/T, both the motor mounts are brand new, as are all the front suspension parts.

Thanks for the suggestions.  what if I ground off 1/32" to 1/8' off the idler arm itself where it hits the header.    :thinking:I have no idea if this part of the idler arm is solid or hollow.  Just a thought.   

[1 Wild R/T]

Reangling the steering box only makes the effect equal from side to side it doesn't change the fact the geometry has been altered....  But as mentioned before it's possible the geometry will be improved... (not likely)  Bringing the drag link down means in order to set the Toe to spec the tie rod needs to be shortened... Typically on Mopar's the tie rods are already to short which is why a bump steer correction kit will give you a way to drop the outboard tie rod location which will lengthen the tie rod...

[7212Mopar]

I had to hammer one tube to gain clearance to the Milodon road race pan. Totally understand your hesitation in banging up brand new shinny and gorgeous looking header. But sometime you have to bite the bullet if no way out. I touched up the area with high temp silver paint for exhaust pipe.

[usraptor]

Still looking for an answer regarding grinding off 1/32 to 1/8' off the top of the idler arm as shown in above post/pictures.

[1 Wild R/T]

Shim the motor mount... I wouldn't suggest grinding on the idler....

[usraptor]

Shim the motor mount... I wouldn't suggest grinding on the idler....

Easier said than done.  Any suggestions on what to use for shims and how do I keep them in place?

[303 Mopar]

Shim the motor mount... I wouldn't suggest grinding on the idler....

Easier said than done.  Any suggestions on what to use for shims and how do I keep them in place?

Washers are easy and cheap.