Subframe connectors look ugly

[nsmall]

I don't have the tools or time to build my own subframe connectors and I wanted a quick fix.

I'm going to leave the name of the company I bought these from out of this post.

My first mock-up they seemed so incredibly off I am sent pictures with measurements to the company and asked them to confirm that they sent me the right ones. They said they did and I needed to cut them up to get them to fit.

I know I cut too much in one area but they have to be twisted pretty hard to get them to fit outside of the torsion bar.

Is it me or does this look horrible?  Maybe these are for a Camaro

Thanks

[nsmall]

I cut off the end that's hanging off and angled it so it looks way better but I don't have any pictures of that right now. 

Thanks

[Chryco Psycho]

I usually notch the middle & reweld  it so it sits tight to the floor

[Brads70]

Here is how I did mine if it helps?

[RUNCHARGER]

Those don't look terrible, from what I can see they need slight trimming and they should fit. I hate the dang things but they do firm the car up.

[anlauto]

I think they look ugly period.

[soundcontrol]

US Cartool has the least ugly ones I think. PITA to install. I would not do a car without them after installing on my convertible, made such a difference. Unless its a OE resto, of course.

[Brads70]

I think they look ugly period.

Maybe, but not as ugly as doors that don't fit/close , warped sheet metal etc.... 
I get it for your OE type restorations though. 

[Topcat]

Since were talking frame connectors, what is the easiest, fastest way to get U.S. Cartool connectors spot on ready to weld on?

Has anyone ever made cardboard templates of them and then modify their brand new U.S. Cartool connectors so they're spot on ready to weld?

Or is there a faster way?

Maybe add a video CODY to how to do it section you have. 

[Cuda Cody]

They are not easy to install and to make them look right it will take a lot of work.  But if you're handy with a welder and have a few days to work on it then you can make them look pretty good.  It was easy to start from scratch and make them. 

Also remember you have to account for the e-brake cable.

Since were talking frame connectors, what is the easiest, fastest way to get U.S. Cartool connectors spot on ready to weld on?

Has anyone ever made cardboard templates of them and then modify their brand new U.S. Cartool connectors so they're spot on ready to weld?

Or is there a faster way?

Maybe add a video CODY to how to do it section you have. 

[HP2]

Since these are more universal and fits both Cuda and Challenger type of SFC, yes they need trimmed to fit best. Challengers are longer than Cudas, so you will have a couple extra inches to  deal with on a Plymouth.

Have  you looked down the length of the connector to confirm they are twisted? Twist is not a deal breaker to rigidity, but I can appreciate you wanting them to look square. If they are twisted, they should be  capable of being twisted back, but it may be a bear to do so.

The saddle fit seems to be a concern as well. if you have not cleaned all the undercoating off the seating area, they will be tight and not want to slide in easily. You could also spread the saddle some to gain working clearance and then clamps them back together for welding.

Or is the issue about the saddle not seating all the way up? If the connector tube is up flush against the floor but the saddle is not all the way up, then that may be as far up as they get. 

[soundcontrol]

That looks so good Cody, like it came that way.

[nsmall]

@Cuda Cody @HP2

Cody, 
Looks stock, awesome work.

HP2

The saddle has a gap towards the rear end on the passenger side as I have to bend the subframe connector some to avoid the torsion bar.  I could always trim that area and bend and weld the saddle and it should work out. That way the twist would be gone.

I would like the saddle to go up which means more cutting will be necessary.  I have an inch or two before I hit the floor boards.  The problem is I will be cutting where the connector connects to the saddle and that area is nice and strong now so I might lose some of the subframe connectors rigidity so maybe I should be content with them hanging lower than I thought they would.

I was planning to have the car media blasted so maybe they will fit a little better then.  I am assuming its best to weld these in after media blasting as the underside will be easier to get to when it comes to welding (the leaf spring shackles are in the way right now)????

Another option would be to tack weld them in for now as I am assuming it is better to have them installed with the car sitting in its natural stance before its stripped????

Thanks folks

[Spikedog08]

Wow awesome job Cody!  A talent I don't have . . .

[Chryco Psycho]

As I said i notch the connector where the bend needs to be & to lowest point of the floor & bend it to get it as  tight  as possible to the floor & reweld the notch , why be content with them hanging low at all ?
I would install them after blasting the body.