And The Journey Begins

[SRT392]

icing is thinner than regular polyester filler and is used for leveling and feathers out very very fine. marvelous stuff but keep it thin and for leveling. it spreads real nice and is self leveling to a degree..  similar to Glazing putty but a little more course

[Ifixmycarmyself]

ok, so this week in preparation for removing the drivers 1/4 pnl i built up this frame jig to hold it in place. Used a laser level to get a level ref line on the 8 posts so now will level the body and then check all the dimensions to make sure its still straight then lock it down and remove the 1/4 and replace with new one.  Frame jig is fully adjustable for any car.... most of the steal came from my scrap pile but i did have to get 25 ft of 2x2 1/8 wall. wow 25 ft is now $250.....  i'd hate to see what lumber is doing....

I'm planning to build a similar frame jig. Did you use factory measurement to build and adjust the stud or did you adjust them to the body? How well did it line up? I measured on 3 different cars and they all differ 1/4- 1/2". Did you have to pull down the body or was it strait. One of mine were kind of twisted somewhat but straightened when quarters were removed. Sorry for all the questions but I'm starting a new project this winter and was inspired by your jig. 

[SRT392]

the jig is universal and fully adjustable. it is level and dead on square. so i used the frame dimensions from service manual and other posts here and set it up to see how close it was. mine was actually close enough that it pulled down tight and was only 1/4 to 3/8 out on a couple of the points. Reset those and pulled it down tight. after removal and replacement of the 1/4 pnl it all stayed in place by about 1/8". i also have a couple of large "I" beams i can slip under the two long sides of the frame jig and using the "U" bolts clamp to the "I" beams for anything that is stubborn. It seamed to work fine as the deck lid which came from a 72 parts car fit real well after 1/4 pnl replacement. The AMD new trunk lid not so much. I have been real lucky on this one as it was never wrecked. It  was beat up a little hear and there but nothing that went deep to the frame rails or core. It had the usual rust in the trunk floor (that got replaced) and the tail light pnl was messed up real good from a previous life break in with a crow bar. With the tail light pnl needing replacement that made the one piece trunk floor an easier task.

[Ifixmycarmyself]

the jig is universal and fully adjustable. it is level and dead on square. so i used the frame dimensions from service manual and other posts here and set it up to see how close it was. mine was actually close enough that it pulled down tight and was only 1/4 to 3/8 out on a couple of the points. Reset those and pulled it down tight. after removal and replacement of the 1/4 pnl it all stayed in place by about 1/8". i also have a couple of large "I" beams i can slip under the two long sides of the frame jig and using the "U" bolts clamp to the "I" beams for anything that is stubborn. It seamed to work fine as the deck lid which came from a 72 parts car fit real well after 1/4 pnl replacement. The AMD new trunk lid not so much. I have been real lucky on this one as it was never wrecked. It  was beat up a little hear and there but nothing that went deep to the frame rails or core. It had the usual rust in the trunk floor (that got replaced) and the tail light pnl was messed up real good from a previous life break in with a crow bar. With the tail light pnl needing replacement that made the one piece trunk floor an easier task.

Thanks for info! funny you mention the aftermarket trunk lid. I replaced the quarters and adjusted to an old lid. Gaps were fine but when i installed the new lid the gaps are wider. Didn't wanna bondo up the gaps so I have to be ok with a somewhat wider gap 

[SRT392]

don't have to accept the gap if you don't want to.  go to page 3 on this thread and look at the first pic of the door. the edge might look a little funny as i needed a little over 1/32 to tighten up the gap in that area so i added a little over a 1/16 by welding directly on the edge. go slow and move around and because its arched it won't warp.  when i'm done with the door i'll put it back on and grind the gap where i want it.  good luck..

[SRT392]

finished up the basic repairs on the drivers door today so put it up and ground off the welds to get the gap where i want it. got some contour blending to do between the door and the 1/4 pnl so that will be next..

[SRT392]

finished the major work on the right (pass) door so i put it up and started setting and fitting the rear gap..  actually coming along ok.. starting on the pass fender this week. will take some work but def salvageable...

[SRT392]

Been working forward. So the pass fender took a good bit of work to straighten out and i had to put a patch panel on the lower rear section but it is going to be ok in the end. here is the first fitting to check the lines and see how close i got the gap "readjustment" welding. one piece at a time...

[SRT392]

and now with a lot of work i finished up the left fender... lines are good and it took some edge welding to get the gap consistent but it is very close now.. next is the front valance. it actually looks in  decent shape so i hope it fits..

[SRT392]

Finishing up the front valance and will have a pic of that in a few days. Needed to put it through the planishing hammer to get it back but it is coming along. Also fitted rear window louvers from Dales Cuda Shop. nice unit.. Also am in need of the measurements for the front windshield trim clip holes.  i had to replace most of the lip and am missing where the holes were. if someone could measure from the the center detent over it would be greatly appreciated      Thanks

[SRT392]

Ok,  working forward and got the front valance fitted and it came out ok. Put the Hood on to see where we are and will go after fitting it as required this week.. After everything is fitted then I'll take it apart and start going after all the internal painting and sealing and the seam sealer.... Thanks again Floyd,  got the front, top windshield channel drilled and the roof/pillar seam re-leaded and finished off...

[YellowThumper]

Deep appreciation for you guys that step so far into these bodies.
Looking good.

Mike.

[SRT392]

thanks Mike....    glad i'm doing this for me. I would hate to watch my bank account tank with all the labor going into this....

[anlauto]

I know it's likely in this thread somewhere, but I'll ask again.....What colour is going on these beautiful straight panels ?

[SRT392]

Hasn't come up yet here but at home its killing me..  here are the ones i'm thinking about..  what's the vote here?  and to add to these the original color was B7.  But since i didn't get the original motor it's getting the crate 392 SRT