What did you do with your ebody/Mopar today?

[70chall440]

Tried unsuccessfully to get the drivers door lock to work.

[blown motor]

I introduced my sleeping, not-really-beauty, to her new wheels and tires. she was too excited for me to put them on her, but that'll happen pretty soon. Got the roller cam and the piston pin clips, too. They've still got great wings at Goodfellows in N.Falls, NY. The GD tax man put a nearly $300 dent in my skull as well. Hope this works out! 

[303 Mopar]

It was nice enough here to take the Cuda out for a quick spin!   

[YellowThumper]

If it is the key lock not functioning. Most likely the little pin tumblers have worn out. They are little round brass bars at fried lengths to match up with your key pattern. I had same issue way back in past. Went to the salvage yards and pulled a bunch of locks to take apart. They are (were) common amongst chrysler for many years. However now days I expect you could buy something to re-key them. They disassemble easily.

Tried unsuccessfully to get the drivers door lock to work.

[moparcar]

Mines still on the rotisserie and jack stands but built some 2 x 4 cribbing stands like DSE (Detroit Speed and Engineering) uses. I'll use these for some mock up work and eventually some raised work.

[70chall440]

If it is the key lock not functioning. Most likely the little pin tumblers have worn out. They are little round brass bars at fried lengths to match up with your key pattern. I had same issue way back in past. Went to the salvage yards and pulled a bunch of locks to take apart. They are (were) common amongst chrysler for many years. However now days I expect you could buy something to re-key them. They disassemble easily.

Tried unsuccessfully to get the drivers door lock to work.

I should have been more descriptive. The lock turns ok, but it will not fully unlock the door, it stops short like either the turn plate is worn or something else. It acts like the rod is too short which I know is not the case. I played with the inner rods some and there is definitely some friction there, I suppose the rod could be bent or something.

I did manage to get the window stainless in.

[YellowThumper]

No problem
Let's go another way. The small swivel plates that mount on the back of the locks are left and right in orientation. Could you have them reversed. Proper orientation for the rod connection could be off needed location. Rods would seem too long or too short..

Good luck

If it is the key lock not functioning. Most likely the little pin tumblers have worn out. They are little round brass bars at fried lengths to match up with your key pattern. I had same issue way back in past. Went to the salvage yards and pulled a bunch of locks to take apart. They are (were) common amongst chrysler for many years. However now days I expect you could buy something to re-key them. They disassemble easily.

Tried unsuccessfully to get the drivers door lock to work.

I should have been more descriptive. The lock turns ok, but it will not fully unlock the door, it stops short like either the turn plate is worn or something else. It acts like the rod is too short which I know is not the case. I played with the inner rods some and there is definitely some friction there, I suppose the rod could be bent or something.

I did manage to get the window stainless in.

[benlavigne]

Got a couple of tires mounted! Waiting for some F60's for the front from @smallhurst ... and nice weather!

Ben

[340challconvert]

Got a couple of tires mounted! Waiting for some F's from @smallhurst ... and nice weather!

Ben

Always loved the look of the Goodyear Polyglass Tires!
My car came originally with the E-60 - 15's long ago!

[benlavigne]

Went to see my new engine on the dyno! You might recognize the setting...
It's a 75 400 block with forged 383 internals and a slight overbore, a mild cam, just a basic rebuild, did not want to go the 452 stroker route. We were shooting to best the basic 383 Magnum numbers from 1970, 335HP 425TQ, hoping for U-code-like 375HP...
Base test done with Nick's trusted Holley doublepumper and headers yielded 440-6 numbers, 394HP, 470TQ!
We then set it up with my own freshly restored AVS, which, at 630cfm, costed about 20HP and 32TQ...
And then with HP manifolds, with final numbers at 359HP @5200, 428TQ @3600RPM. There was a slight miss, so Nick will do some further testing with my ignition setup and timing adjustments.
Overall I'm happy, this will give me plenty of reliable power and torque to spin the Polyglas, pump-gas friendly at 9.5:1 CR, with a slight lumpy cam.

Ben
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[RUNCHARGER]

Decent results. Hard to install the manifolds and little carb though.

[cudaragtop]

Got the cuda out and took it for a drive. 44* and Sunny.

[Crash520]

Fitted Caltrac bars, work as required, a little noisy but I can shim most of that out, and now it's holding pinion angle tighter I've got a slight vibration so I'll throw a couple of degree shim under the spring perch's and should be good to go

[dodj]

Got a couple of tires mounted!
Ben

I love the sound of polyglas in a burnout..

[YellowThumper]

Moved stuff to get to other stuff. Desperately wanting to get back on pictured stuff soon.