PINK AAR CUDA

[HEMICUDA]

That stand brings back memories.  A shop in Michigan rebuilt my T/A's engine and ran it on a stand that looked much like that one.
And it turned out the date coded water pump I'd found and sent to someone in CA to rebuild several years earlier started leaking. 
The engine sat for a year or more because the restoration shop in MI the car was at wouldn't make any progress.
So I finally made arrangements to move the car out of that shop to a established well regarded shop here in IL, and before we traveled there to MI retrieve everything from 2 shops, my engine guy Ron said he'd paint the engine for me, and the shop in IL said no, we will do it, don't let him paint it!
So after I got the car painted and partially reassembled to a "roller" at the IL shop, and finished the assembly in my garage, it finally was time to try to start the engine in my car!
So me and several buddies including Mopar Mitch here were playing around trying to get it started, I'm in the drivers seat turning the key while Mitch and another buddy made adjustments under the hood.
After a few minutes I notice a reflection on the engine and said hey wait a minute, and we look closer and the intake manifold runners have pools of gas in them!  The damn lines are leaking at the carbs. 
We are cleaning up the gas, and I notice that paint was lifting on the manifold where the gas had pooled. 
We tried everything without success to get the lines sealed to stop the leaking.  Finally I called Ron the guy who built the engine, and he says put red grease on the fuel line fitting threads.  I'm like, can't be that easy... he said try it.  So I did, worked like a charm! I mentioned the paint problem, and Ron said, Jesus, don't tell me your shop didn't use fuel resistant paint on your engine??
I apologize for the long story, but reading these threads on cars Mike works on and how well everything goes with customer projects and his happy customers, in contrast with all the hell I dealt with with shops on my restoration, makes me very envious!
I'm still fixing some odds and ends the shop in IL did.   

Thx for that, that's one thing I learned years ago doing my own cars, the red 6bbl Cuda I own leaked at every single fitting at the carbs on first start up and soaked everything.  That was over 20 years ago, I learned my lesson.  I have never used SS lines again on anything and run every motor before I have to lean over fenders to fix things that would have been much easier outside of the car.

It seams there's always something leaking somewhere and I hate leaks of any kind no matter how small it is, it's so much easier addressing any issue out of the car.  I know for certain when I do the initial start up in the car and if it doesn't start, it's always something to do with spark and not the engine.

I've been fortunate, when I run the motor first, I haven't had any issues once it in the car other than a leaky power steering pump.

[JH27N0B]

My fuel lines aren't stainless steel.  Other than the water pump, I'm sure my engine had no leaks when run on the stand.
The shop in IL removed the lines, carbs, distributor etc to paint the engine.
We made the classic distributor rotated 180 degrees mistake when we first tried to start the engine.
I guess you get a 50% chance of that happening.
As far as the red grease on threads trick, how it was explained to me, the threads often have little burrs or imperfections on them, so when you tighten the lines, they feel tight but the fitting might be hung up on a burr not fully seated.  A little grease on the threads allows the fitting to thread past the burrs and fully seat.  Easy peasy!
Don't try that on brake line fittings though, I'm not sure if a little trace of petroleum grease getting in the brake fluid would be enough to damage EPDM seals, but I wouldn't take the risk!

[HEMICUDA]

My fuel lines aren't stainless steel.  Other than the water pump, I'm sure my engine had no leaks when run on the stand.
The shop in IL removed the lines, carbs, distributor etc to paint the engine.
We made the classic distributor rotated 180 degrees mistake when we first tried to start the engine.
I guess you get a 50% chance of that happening.
As far as the red grease on threads trick, how it was explained to me, the threads often have little burrs or imperfections on them, so when you tighten the lines, they feel tight but the fitting might be hung up on a burr not fully seated.  A little grease on the threads allows the fitting to thread past the burrs and fully seat.  Easy peasy!
Don't try that on brake line fittings though, I'm not sure if a little trace of petroleum grease getting in the brake fluid would be enough to damage EPDM seals, but I wouldn't take the risk!

I've never thought of that on a fitting, thinking the line is seated, that makes total sense.  It's amazing what can be learned from guys that have been doing it for any period of time, I learned something new and valuable today, thx.

[HEMICUDA]

Here is the parking brake assembly going into this car.  I powder coated the bare metal and the black in a 2 step process.  I also had to make the "ratchet" spring since it was missing.

[Aar1064]

Truly inspiring! Makes me want another car just to try all the things learned here. Well I always want another car but having one is a bit different.

Go Mike and Company!

Love it Live it!

[HEMICUDA]

What a great car!  Love following your projects Mike, first class.  Plus I am sure to learn something following along

I'll tell you what Wayne, you have any questions or need help with anything, don't hesitate to call me brother.  Over the years, I've screwed up everything at least once and figured it out from trial and error and help from others. 

330-725-3990

[signsgonebye]

Why do I see some Cudas with the cowl black and others body color? I have a 340 1970 Vitamin C  Cuda and it doesn't look to ever have had a black paint on it?

[JS29]

 

[signsgonebye]

Anybody know?????

[6bblgt]

1970 e-bodies in all colors except EB7(dark blue), EF8 (dark green) & TX9 (black) are supposed to have cowl & core support "blackout"

there are known cars in the above colors with "blackout" & I'm sure there are original paint cars missing the treatment, but it is NOT the "norm"

[signsgonebye]

Thank you!

[71REDCUDA]

Beautiful work Mike.

[chris NOS]

1970 e-bodies in all colors except EB7(dark blue), EF8 (dark green) & TX9 (black) are supposed to have cowl & core support "blackout"

there are known cars in the above colors with "blackout" & I'm sure there are original paint cars missing the treatment, but it is NOT the "norm"

i think there is a time change in production in 1970 , but somebody more educated will have to confirm when.

[JS29]

@chris NOS  I remember hearing that as well. 

[JEJJ]

Mike-Mike-Mike, I am not sure what I should say because I am afraid with any additions to this thread you will not be able to find any off-the-rack hat that would fit the melon sitting on top of your neck but.... 

You/your shops restorations attention to detail, ACCURATE detail, is fantastic. To see the work you and your crew turn out, and knowing what other options are out there,aside from a few others that could match your completed projects, I would have to believe there is no shortage of people that  would be looking to have you preform your magic on their cars.

Over the years I have been lucky enough to see in person many high end "OE" restored cars (as well as great surivors), cars done to the highest standards and by some of the best restoration "authorities" and yours is in lock step with those shops. What truly impresses me though is the amount of correct restoration of parts used that are done IN SHOP!!!

To know when a customer gives you restored parts to put on their car that are not up to your standard,that you have "re-restore" them correctly and then don't charge the customer, that speaks VOLUMES to the pride of workmanship and the quality of an end product you intend to deliver. I can assure you, most shops would either tell the customer that there will be a an additional cost to correctly re-restore those parts, or, they will just use the parts the way they are because "those are the parts the customer gave them", without mentioning the parts are sub-pare.

Enough fluff though, your ego doesn't need any help,this is just my honest opinion as much as it pains me to say it . 
There's no denying your love for the cars and your willingness to take a moment to help ANYONE with a problem or question is something to be admired and respected.

I can tell you this, if the day comes when I decide it's time to restore my Cuda convertible from driver to that level, I will ask you (to use your words) if you and your team would polish that turd into a diamond.

Until then,keep up the great work Mike.