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Sheetmetal gurus help me get started

Started by Jocigar, February 14, 2022, 08:17:22 AM

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jimynick

Mike, you're chasing the door/rocker in and out fit at the front of the rocker, right? You won't get all of it from one source, so it's likely you'll need to take a sledge and a block of wood and "walk" the inner rocker flange outwards. As long as it isn't getting too extreme, that's the way I'd begin. That way you can blow out the front end while not taking the whole rocker with it. I'd only cut the rocker as a last resort and I'd see if I could get a wee bit by moving the door in as well. You've had the hinge pillars loose and it's only take an 1/8" at the bottom to throw things off. Remember the mantra " if it doesn't fit, why doesn't it fit and what do I need to do to make it fit" and you'll make progress. Rome wasn't built in a day and nor shall be your car. Look at the glass as half full!  :drinkingbud:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

c1968man

Just looking at what you are going through to replace your panels got me thinking when i go to start on mine id better wait until all my hair is grey that way no one will notice i aged 10 years in the few months it takes to get er done :haha: at any rate i am paying attention and taking notes you seem to be making excellent progress in a short time  :twothumbsup:

ebodyproducts

Have you made any progress on the rocker?


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www.ebodyproducts.com
606-481-9014


Jocigar

thanks for asking, I have not been able to put in as much time as I would like but did play with rocker.

I am convinced there is no quality control in the least at amd, no go-no-go gauges, no measurement verification, no visual inspection.

Made adjustments (hammer and dolly) to front of rocker, both bottom and top were off.   

Replacing outer wheel well is next in line.

jimynick

So padawan, I see you have learned the mantra, well! good job Joe! :twothumbsup:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

HP_Cuda


Always remember the base from which you start from affects all downstream pieces.
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

jimynick

Quote from: HP_Cuda on July 28, 2022, 09:11:05 AM

Always remember the base from which you start from affects all downstream pieces.

Yep and that 1/16th gap? 6 gaps later it's 3/8ths. Good advice and I do believe the man is getting it now.  :bigthumb:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"


johnr

    I am impressed. Patience& Perseverance is worth it's weight in gold.
--  johnr  --

anlauto

I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Jocigar

Hey guys thanks for the encouragement!   

Kids came home from college, workers decided to take 5 week vacation, and we got a heatwave where it was 80f even at midnight.     So I tapped out mid July  :Thud: and decided I will start up again in September.     

I managed to get all the panels on which felt good seeing complete car, but then it all had to come back off  :bricks: for sanding inside e-coating, and drilling 1 thousand  5/16" holes in prep for plug welding.

Hope to regain some traction after labor day   :cheers:

jimynick

Looking good Joe, looking good! I guess it's a wee bit late to mention hand punches, eh? Sorry; it may have reduced the number of holes to be drilled to 500 or so. Best stock up on MIG wire too! Cooler temps and cooler workers and beer will make the difference, I'm sure.  :bigthumb:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"


soundcontrol

Good work!
I stopped drilling or punching holes for spotwelding, now I just drill a bit, almost thru the first panel, I find it way it's easier to
get a good spot weld and and can use welding primer under without cleaning in the hole first. Dosen't work in all places though.

Jocigar

I'm trying to get back into this project after covid-round 2 and shingles recovery  :Thud:


Any input/suggestions on addressing these areas appreciated.  (see arrows)

-Gap at trunk lid to dutchman a little large at center but closes near edges. 

In order to get hood gaps correct, I had to adjust fenders in and out, and then lost my gaps on fender to door.
   
- Driver side top of fender touching door. (will need to cut and bend lip i'm guessing)
- Passenger side, gap too large (i guess this will need 1/16" rod filler) weld rod to door not fender ?

-fenders near center body line do not follow door profile (pinches in)

Door to qtr gaps look good to me, so its only door to fender adjustments.

Thanks!

ebodyproducts

Quote from: Jocigar on December 15, 2022, 10:58:45 AM
I'm trying to get back into this project after covid-round 2 and shingles recovery  :Thud:


Any input/suggestions on addressing these areas appreciated.  (see arrows)

-Gap at trunk lid to dutchman a little large at center but closes near edges. 

In order to get hood gaps correct, I had to adjust fenders in and out, and then lost my gaps on fender to door.
   
- Driver side top of fender touching door. (will need to cut and bend lip i'm guessing)
- Passenger side, gap too large (i guess this will need 1/16" rod filler) weld rod to door not fender ?

-fenders near center body line do not follow door profile (pinches in)

Door to qtr gaps look good to me, so its only door to fender adjustments.

Thanks!

Make sure the hood is on the car and aligned.  You can't start to get everything aligned without all of the pieces together.  Also, make sure you have the door latches on so the post will locate the back of the door.  All these things create changes.  Don't cut or weld anything until you are aligned.

E-Body Products
www.ebodyproducts.com
606-481-9014

Dmod1974

I'd also add that you need to install the hood, door, and trunk bumpers, strikers, and latches along with the door weatherstripping too.  Add weight to the doors as well.  If you don't account for the bumper heights you may be spending a lot of time adjusting after paint, or even worse, reworking those panels to line up correctly.