Picked up this 1971 Challenger today, I haven't even looked inside of it yet....but it appears pretty solid....
You have to squint along side of me on this one :rubeyes: ....This turd has one heck of a recipe for one heck of a car.... :drooling:
In point form:
2017 Ignition Orange Paint 2019 Pitch Black Paint
Black interior
Black 71 side stipes
Black vinyl roof
Rear Window louvers
Front & Rear Spoilers
Shaker hood w/pins
New 392 Crate Hemi
5speed Tremic transmission
Front & Rear coil over suspension from RMS Altercation
6 & 4 piston Wilwood brakes
17" YearOne Rally Rims Nitto tires
Custom leather seats
Leather Tuff Grip
Dakota Digital Dash
Vintage A/C
I can't wait, and I'll likely be asking all kinds of questions of our Gen III Hemi owners.... :help:
I "see" a 71 T/A clone that never was with a pro-touring touch ........
Looks like a great restomod project Alan!
Quote from: Brads70 on December 05, 2020, 01:42:28 PM
I "see" a 71 T/A clone that never was with a pro-touring touch ........
Odd you mention that, that idea was on the table, because at first he wanted an AAR clone, but Barracuda donors are too hard to find...this car was in my backyard
Cool plan except I would ditch the shaker hood idea. Pretty much need to do a shaker on a Cuda but they're more of PITA than they're worth on a Challenger and the Challenger R/T hood looks pretty good.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on December 05, 2020, 02:53:34 PM
Cool plan except I would ditch the shaker hood idea. Pretty much need to do a shaker on a Cuda but they're more of PITA than they're worth on a Challenger and the Challenger R/T hood looks pretty good.
:iagree:
This is going to be a super awesome car! Can't wait to see this one cometo life. :popcorn: :woohoo:
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on December 05, 2020, 02:53:34 PM
Cool plan except I would ditch the shaker hood idea. Pretty much need to do a shaker on a Cuda but they're more of PITA than they're worth on a Challenger and the Challenger R/T hood looks pretty good.
Could you give me a heads up on the Challenger shaker issues?
For me it's just the expense of everything. I did two within a couple of years and I swore I wouldn't do it again$$$
I agree about the shaker vs rally hood, but EVERYBODY wants a shaker, even though this will basically be the bubble/seal sitting empty on top of the 392 :dunno:
Quote from: anlauto on December 05, 2020, 07:24:25 PM
I agree about the shaker vs rally hood, but EVERYBODY wants a shaker, even though this will basically be the bubble/seal sitting empty on top of the 392 :dunno:
It can be done in a functional and OEM "appearing" way... you need to ditch the "barrel" style intake though and go with a more conventional dual plane EFI manifold with aftermarket throttle body.
Really looking forward to this one. What's the transmission going to be?
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on December 05, 2020, 06:18:15 PM
For me it's just the expense of everything. I did two within a couple of years and I swore I wouldn't do it again$$$
$$Can't argue with that.$$
Quote from: Shoooter on December 05, 2020, 08:44:14 PM
Really looking forward to this one. What's the transmission going to be?
Tremic five speed.
Looking forward to seeing LOTS of pic of the build.
JS27
Well week one is behind us....as I've said before, I like to start a project by taking the car apart 100%...no screw/nut/bolt goes unturned...
This car is pretty solid, I think next week I'm going to try my hand at welding...I've watched enough "Bad Chad Customs" now to know how to weld :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
What is with the hole in the trunk floor?
Fuel cell?
Your guess is as good as mine :looney: :dunno:
Looking forward to seeing your progress Alan. :twothumbsup: So what are you going to be welding on the car or were you just kidding. :huh: I keep thinking I need to learn, but have pulled the trigger yet.
Quote from: usraptor on December 11, 2020, 03:07:44 PM
Looking forward to seeing your progress Alan. :twothumbsup: So what are you going to be welding on the car or were you just kidding. :huh: I keep thinking I need to learn, but have pulled the trigger yet.
I was going to weld up all the holes in the firewall...I used to do a lot of welding years ago, but it became much easier to just give the work to my metal guy Keith Sim....in this case, he's already agreed to fix my phuckups :rofl:
I wish I was building my car at the same pace as you are doing this one. I'll try and follow your steps as you go. Just at a mic slower pace! What timeframe do you think you will have it back to your customer?
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Quote from: Swamp Donkey on December 11, 2020, 05:12:33 PM
I wish I was building my car at the same pace as you are doing this one. I'll try and follow your steps as you go. Just at a mic slower pace! What timeframe do you think you will have it back to your customer?
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We're aiming for 225 days from now.....We'll see what happens...I don't guarantee that will happen. :fingerscrossed:
Are you welding up all the AC holes? Is he going with aftermarket AC or none? Looks pretty solid
Quote from: Shoooter on December 11, 2020, 10:07:52 PM
Are you welding up all the AC holes? Is he going with aftermarket AC or none? Looks pretty solid
YES...that's the plan. :bigthumb: I just snapped a picture and counted 43 holes that I want to fill :o
Success !!!! :banana:
I welded up over 60 holes in the firewall and inner aprons. :bricks: Now after the car goes for media blasting, with a bit of body work the firewall look nice a clean...mind you, I still need to drill holes for all the new parts going on, like AC, hydraulic clutch, 392 wiring, etc...but hey...gotta start somewhere :D
Nice. A Pro Touring build! I thought you only did original.
Following for sure.
60 holes in 3 days? Damn, you are fast!
Guess I will be doing the same. Please slow down a bit on this build. I can't keep up.
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Quote from: soundcontrol on December 15, 2020, 03:01:56 PM
60 holes in 3 days? Damn, you are fast!
about ten hours total...a lot of grinding :headbang:
Quote from: anlauto on December 15, 2020, 03:55:24 PM
Quote from: soundcontrol on December 15, 2020, 03:01:56 PM
60 holes in 3 days? Damn, you are fast!
about ten hours total...a lot of grinding :headbang:
I guess your'e using a MAG, get a TIG, very little grinding, and softer welds.
Looks like a great project.. Nice progress so far.. I will be watching this, hoping to learn a little..
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on December 11, 2020, 12:49:56 PM
What is with the hole in the trunk floor?
In tank fuel pump? :dunno:
Did you weld up the upper shock mount hole? :('
Quote from: dodj on December 16, 2020, 02:00:59 PM
Did you weld up the upper shock mount hole? :('
Yup, it's not used with the RMS Altercation front suspension. :bigthumb:
Quote from: anlauto on December 16, 2020, 03:27:55 PM
Yup, it's not used with the RMS Altercation front suspension. :bigthumb:
Ah, Ok. :bigthumb:
Also welded up the battery tray mounting holes, because the battery will go in the trunk to make room for the air cleaner set-up..
Looks like a great project. Good to see a build thread from you again! :bigthumb:
So, end of week two....still waiting to get the car media blasted, Christmas Season, isn't the best to get things done :headbang:
So while the car is still here I thought I would pick away at more welding....
Alan, that's cool that you're doing more of the work yourself. Don't you have a problem with the smoke/smell getting into the rest of the house?
Quote from: blown motor on December 19, 2020, 06:51:57 AM
Alan, that's cool that you're doing more of the work yourself. Doesn't your wife have a problem with the smoke/smell getting into the rest of the house?
Fix it for you... :rofl: :rofl:
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This build is screaming to be FC7. :bradsthumb: :ohyeah: :Stirring:
Quote from: YellowThumper on December 19, 2020, 09:28:00 AM
This build is screaming to be FC7. :bradsthumb: :ohyeah: :Stirring:
I hope you're kidding....if I build one more purple car my head will explode :bricks: :stop: :pullinghair:
I think ten is enough http://www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com/PAST-RESTORATIONS.html :grouphug:
The only thing I'm curious about you welding up is the holes for the heater. I'm also wanting to do the vintage air A/C in my car. I just assumed that would use the existing holes. I will follow along and see how it's done!
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Quote from: anlauto on December 19, 2020, 10:05:44 AM
Quote from: YellowThumper on December 19, 2020, 09:28:00 AM
This build is screaming to be FC7. :bradsthumb: :ohyeah: :Stirring:
I hope you're kidding....if I build one more purple car my head will explode :bricks: :stop: :pullinghair:
I think ten is enough http://www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com/PAST-RESTORATIONS.html :grouphug:
Yes a joke.
Quote from: Swamp Donkey on December 19, 2020, 10:31:30 AM
The only thing I'm curious about you welding up is the holes for the heater. I'm also wanting to do the vintage air A/C in my car. I just assumed that would use the existing holes. I will follow along and see how it's done!
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FYI they sell bulkhead connectors in a straight line. These will fit thru the firewall off to passenger side that let out into the inner fenderwell.
This is how my eventual setup will be.
Quote from: Swamp Donkey on December 19, 2020, 10:31:30 AM
The only thing I'm curious about you welding up is the holes for the heater. I'm also wanting to do the vintage air A/C in my car. I just assumed that would use the existing holes. I will follow along and see how it's done!
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Yes..The ClassicAir and VintageAir kits include a "block-off" plate for the existing holes in the firewall whether you have a factory A/C car or not.
The last 71 Cuda I did used a ClassicAir system....I don't recommend that brand whatsoever. It came with a cheesy plastic cover that covers the existing large hole and gives you four new holes for the new AC system.
My plan is to NOT use an ugly block-off plate, but now to just drill the four new holes in the location "I" want. I once did another car using the bulkhead connectors shown by Mr. Thumper, and pushing the new AC box all the way over to the PS ....and ran the hoses in the wheel well.
Here's the plastic "block-off" plate included in the ClassicAir kit for a NON-AC car. I'm not a fan.
This car came to me painted, and the customer supplied the kit, so I didn't have much input. :headbang:
Thanks. Those pictures really help explain everything.
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Quote from: Swamp Donkey on December 19, 2020, 11:34:17 AM
Thanks. Those pictures really help explain everything.
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Yea, so even if I install the new box in the same location as the purple car above, it will look much nicer with just four clean holes drill in my nice new flat firewall instead of using the provided plate...in my opinion... :drinkingbud:
Absolutely the worst job ever, but a very necessary step in my opinion...before any restoration starts, after you strip the car apart, you need to have it media blasted....HOWEVER BEFORE it can be media blasted, you should remove all that old grungy factory undercoat....I was so fortunate to have a car that came with the optional factory undercoat...that means having to scrap the entire floor pan :pullinghair: :headbang: :headbang: after about ten hours with a propane torch and a scraper over about five days...it's finally done... :console:
Found that the car before it in the paint shop was orange...cool 'cause the car is going to be orange :cooldance:
Whats holding the car at that angle?
Magic :))
I'm almost to the undercoating removal stage now. I thought that could just be media blasted off. Going to see if I can track down a rotisserie today.
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Quote from: Swamp Donkey on December 29, 2020, 10:21:08 AM
I'm almost to the undercoating removal stage now. I thought that could just be media blasted off. Going to see if I can track down a rotisserie today.
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Yes, it likely could be media blasted off....but if your media blaster charges by the hour, look out, it will take twice as much time to blast it and it will cause a great deal of heat build up. :o
If you plan is to do it yourself, I think you will quickly learn how much extra time and media it will take. :alan2cents:
:iagree: Better to remove it by hand. :alan2cents:
I just did a pile of undercoating removal on my Javelin project. What a horrible job. I found this wire wheel on a disc grinder to work really well. Works well at seams also as you can turn it sideways and really dig in and make it work.. :alan2cents:
https://www.kbctools.ca/itemdetail?itemcode=1-619-49639
This came of so fast it made my head spin and no mess. Might not work at 30c but it sure works in 10c and under.
Maybe don't waste the magic on holding the car and instead use the "magic" to get the undercoating off? :pokeeye: :rofl:
But really, how are you holding it up like that? Is it safe? Or at least somewhat safe?
Quote from: anlauto on December 28, 2020, 04:17:05 PM
Magic :))
Quote from: dodj on December 31, 2020, 12:32:53 PM
Quote from: soundcontrol on December 28, 2020, 04:13:47 PM
Whats holding the car at that angle?
:popcorn:
I went back and looked in the shop today and the car is back on all four wheels :dunno: it's magic...
New transmission kit from Silver Sport showed up today :)
Got the floor figured out...Great instructions and a paper pattern :twothumbsup:
Hey Alan, would you mind taking a measuent from the front floor pan seam to the end of the shifter tunnel, I am curious to see if what I made is similar to the sst setup in size.
Yes thanks !
....YEA...IT'S GOTTA HEMI IN IT..... 8)
No longer a "crate" Motor :D
YAAAAH....Instructions ! :banana:
Just like IKEA :D
Looks sweet Alan! How about I stop by on the weekend and we drop that hemi into my challenger! You can use the engine from that snow blower (sitting in the corner of your garage) for your customer's restomod. :ohyeah: :ohyeah:
Yaay! spare belts.... :haha:
You went with the Mopar Performance controls kit, huh? Any chance you can post up some details on how the A/C compressor is wired/controlled along with the CAN Bus Interface module? I'll be using the same on my car, and I've read the crate engine instructions, but they don't cover anything for those two pieces and must be in supplemental manuals that I can't find online.
I need to figure out how I'm integrating my new harness, Vintage A/C, and a Dakota Digital dash cluster to work with the crate engine modules. Anything you can share about how those work and are wired up/controlled would be awesome!
Quote from: Dmod1974 on January 08, 2021, 04:17:00 PM
You went with the Mopar Performance controls kit, huh? Any chance you can post up some details on how the A/C compressor is wired/controlled along with the CAN Bus Interface module? I'll be using the same on my car, and I've read the crate engine instructions, but they don't cover anything for those two pieces and must be in supplemental manuals that I can't find online.
I need to figure out how I'm integrating my new harness, Vintage A/C, and a Dakota Digital dash cluster to work with the crate engine modules. Anything you can share about how those work and are wired up/controlled would be awesome!
I have no frickin idea...that's a bridge yet to be crossed... :headbang: I'll keep you posted as I go....if anybody else want to lend some education, I'm certainly listening... :help:
Quote from: 70rag383 on January 08, 2021, 02:34:02 PM
Looks sweet Alan! How about I stop by on the weekend and we drop that hemi into my challenger! You can use the engine from that snow blower (sitting in the corner of your garage) for your customer's restomod. :ohyeah: :ohyeah:
We can talk about "upgrading your car" next if you like... :D
Got the doors back from Techno-Strip today, other than a couple of dents they are nice rust-free doors :banana:
Wow, thats the cleanest doors I ever seen. Dipped? You know what they used?
Quote from: soundcontrol on January 12, 2021, 11:24:39 AM
Wow, thats the cleanest doors I ever seen. Dipped? You know what they used?
I'm not sure the chemical they use, but it's well worth the money as far as saving time goes, I've been using them for years.
Hey Alan, another question. Would you know if their process removes bondo/body filler. My original 1970 Barracuda rear valance is filled with it and I'd like to see if it can be made useable whenever my car gets to that point.
Quote from: Jay Bee on January 12, 2021, 12:28:35 PM
Hey Alan, another question. Would you know if their process removes bondo/body filler. My original 1970 Barracuda rear valance is filled with it and I'd like to see if it can be made useable whenever my car gets to that point.
YUP 100% cleans everything right off...you might not like what you find though.... :rofl: bondo can hide a lot !
I found 17 ugly patches just like this one in the pair of fenders the customer swore were in "great" condition... :drunk:
...and this was the good side :rubeyes:
Another excellent bondo hiding story (sorry Doug)
Alan, i like dipping but for the hood would it remove the adhesive they used to attach the skin to the inner frame???
Quote from: SRT392 on January 12, 2021, 04:34:04 PM
Alan, i like dipping but for the hood would it remove the adhesive they used to attach the skin to the inner frame???
Yes it would remove that as well...unfortunate, but you can replace it with carefully placed gobs or seam sealer. :alan2cents:
Got the car back from the blasters today....no real surprises.... :)
This is the ONLY way to start a project :twothumbsup:
Looks to be in good shape Alan. Usual suspects with the rust in the quarters etc. but the structural components look very nice. :ohyeah: :ohyeah:
Huge money saver starting with a shell like that.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on January 13, 2021, 04:16:52 PM
Huge money saver starting with a shell like that.
Yea for sure, we're actively looking for a similar condition 70-71 Barracuda to build a resto-mod out of... :takealook: if you know of anything even out your way...
So.... is that pure bare metal? Or did they give it a quick spray of primer?
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Quote from: Swamp Donkey on January 13, 2021, 05:26:02 PM
So.... is that pure bare metal? Or did they give it a quick spray of primer?
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That's bare steel....It's at the body shop getting epoxy primed right now.... :bigthumb:
Lots of parts media blasted too :)
OKAY...OKay...okay....I know what you're thinking ....
Back on page one where I laid out the details of the plan, the owner had asked for 2017 Ignition Orange.....so why the black epoxy primer ??? :drunk:
Well about a week or so ago...the owner's wife got wind of the project....and she DID NOT approve of the orange idea and insisted it be painted black...
So the new plan is 2019 PX8 PITCH BLACK 8) That will make it a quadruple black car....Body/Vinyl top/Interior and stripes.... :drooling:
Neil's Autobody did a great job with the coverage of the epoxy primer... :bigthumb:
You never thought to do the driver's side orange and the passenger's side black? :D
Quote from: blown motor on January 18, 2021, 03:36:29 PM
You never thought to do the driver's side orange and the passenger's side black? :D
or Black with orange stripes :bigthumb:
How about Vanta Black?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCI2KYhC8vk
Quote from: dodj on January 18, 2021, 04:16:44 PM
How about Vanta Black?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCI2KYhC8vk
My son showed me that video the other day...pretty cool... 8)
Customer wanted a "kill switch" So I ordered this one from Summit... Plan on putting the battery right behind it, close to the seat braces....
Tried out my "fabrication" skills to....I made my own mounting bracket :clapping: :haha:
As part of the "mock-up" phase, I got the battery where I wanted, cut and made the cables to fit and welded a nice 3/8" ground stud to the frame. Gas tank and fuel lines will be next...
Are you gonna make a hatch so you can get to the pump from inside the trunk?
Thats what I'm doing.
Quote from: soundcontrol on January 21, 2021, 02:43:20 PM
Are you gonna make a hatch so you can get to the pump from inside the trunk?
Thats what I'm doing.
I don't think so.... :thinking: It is a consideration though... :brainiac:
Why drill a hole through the trunk floor and then pass the wire through to the underside of the car? You could just bolt it to the trunk floor. You are still electrically grounding to the same piece of structure. :dunno:
Quote from: dodj on January 21, 2021, 04:25:20 PM
Why drill a hole through the trunk floor and then pass the wire through to the underside of the car? You could just bolt it to the trunk floor. You are still electrically grounding to the same piece of structure. :dunno:
You're absolutely correct :worship:
I just thought the "FRAME" would be better then the flimsy floor panel, but I agree, it likely didn't make a difference. I also want to incorporate a rubber grommet around the hole, which is just added work. I could also be able to use that ground stud for the fuel sender and the fuel pump. :dunno:
This is my first attempt at re-locating a battery :drunk:
I'm watching everything you are doing on this build. Going to be doing almost everything you are doing. Only at a much slower pace!
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With the battery in the trunk where you have placed it will a spare tire still fit?
Quote from: larry4406 on January 23, 2021, 05:53:17 AM
With the battery in the trunk where you have placed it will a spare tire still fit?
Already discussed this with the car's owner...He feels he doesn't want or need a spare tire, or a bumper jack :dunno: Feels these "details" have no place in a resto-mod ...I think there would be room for a collapsible spare mounted in the rearward position...but, that's something you would never use either, so what's the point ?
Quote from: Swamp Donkey on January 22, 2021, 11:13:11 PM
I'm watching everything you are doing on this build. Going to be doing almost everything you are doing. Only at a much slower pace!
Thanks Mr. Donkey ;) but please keep in mind that this is a learning experience for me as well...Being a modified car there is no right or wrong way of doing things, but there certainly can be a better way....The ideas I've been using have come from pictures I've seen on the internet, some great advice from members here and also from local builders who have done this Gen III swap before....
I do appreciate everyone's comments in this thread....
maybe I shouldn't have gone through the floor with the ground cable, :headbang: or maybe left room for a spare tire, :thinking: but moving forward, hopefully I'll get a chance to do more modified cars like this one and I can learn from others suggestions....afterall, that's what this great website is about :grouphug: :drinkingbud:
With a tremendous amount of advice from the Gen III crowd here, I think I got my fuel system figured out and everything test fit....I welded a mounting stud for the fuel regulator/filter set up and another small ground stud...(can't be grounded enough ;) ) My only slight concern in the vent, it's above the top of the tank, but not very high....I think it should work okay, I can run a vented cap as well :dunno:
I might consider fabricating a shield to protect and cover the lines and regulator/filter....but that crossmember has such an odd shape to it :thinking:
Got the fans assembled to the "Frostebite" rad today too...thing is huge, I hope it fits... :fingerscrossed:
FWIW, a kill switch should be readily accessible.
Imagine your car burning down because of electrical or something and you need to get your trunk keys out.
Just sayin....
Quote from: HP_Cuda on January 25, 2021, 01:28:32 PM
FWIW, a kill switch should be readily accessible.
Imagine your car burning down because of electrical or something and you need to get your trunk keys out.
Just sayin....
Yea...another excellent point, thank you... :worship:
I had a good conversation with the owner about why he wanted one installed. His answer had to do with every time he parked his other classic cars for any length of time the batteries would always die...he wants to be able to easily disconnect all power when he parks it... :dunno:
This is not a "race car" so not having immediate access to the kill switch without opening the trunk is really no worse then having to open your hood and try to disconnect your battery under the circumstances you mentioned. :alan2cents:
Gotcha, kill switch means something to old racer guys.
No worries if he really wanted a cutoff.
Restored the grill and tail light panel this week along with a ton of small parts...
Oooh: 71 Challenger trim is rad for sure.
E-Stopp install...At first I had a grandiose idea of counter-sinking the whole unit in the floor pan, then running the cable INSIDE the car through a tube welded to the floor etc...etc...but then I thought that it's so hard to get material with all of our stores in a Covid lockdown. We can't just walk into a store anymore to grab a piece of pipe...it has to be ordered on-line and curbside pick-up etc...etc...PITA
So first off...the control box came with no way whatsoever to mount it....so I fab a bracket...and made it fancy with some wrinkle paint :haha: :haha: it's also foam lined in case of vibration...Then a couple of nutserts and I mounted it basically where the factory pedal would be.
Next up was the unit itself....again, just fab'd a mounting bracket with two mounting studs and plug welded it to the transmission crossmember...and two more studs welded through the floor. Drill an access hole for the wiring in the cross member and the floor right above...
It now sits level with the rocker and maybe an 1/2" lower them the pinch weld...I figure the exhaust will be a lot lower...
Last step was the switch....didn't bother to hide it....drilled a hole and placed it right where a factory rear speaker fader switch would be :D
I'll worry about all the wiring of it and attaching the cable later...
Now it's on to the AC
Side scoops installed
Overkill on the positive battery cable....I didn't want it pinched between the seat and floor, so I welded a piece of pipe through the floor and then used slices of pipe to hold the cable in place. I chose the passenger side to keep it away from the gas pedal
Quote from: anlauto on February 01, 2021, 01:01:17 PM
Next up was the unit itself....again, just fab'd a mounting bracket with two mounting studs and plug welded it to the transmission crossmember...and two more studs welded through the floor. Drill an access hole for the wiring in the cross member and the floor right above...
It now sits level with the rocker and maybe an 1/2" lower them the pinch weld...I figure the exhaust will be a lot lower...
Looks Good Alan!
I was looking into changing the Parking brake in our 69 project car to a hand brake on the floor next to the driver's seat and also looked at the E-Stop but have not pulled the trigger on either yet...
Three questions:
1. Is the E-Stop as loud, slow and sound as annoying in person as in their videos? The beeping would drive me nuts.
2. Does the light in the button stay on even after you turn the key off?
3. Does it draw current when parked and the E-Brake is on and the key is off?
Thanks,
Randy
1. I have no idea how loud, but the speaker is a separate piece...I'm thinking some tape over it should quite it down, if not wire cutters will for sure work. :rofl:
2. You wire it to power on with the key, so I can't see the light staying on :thinking: I think one of the videos said the light goes out.
3. After it's engaged, I don't believe it draws any more power to stay engaged.
Your guess is as good as mine....I'll know a lot more when the car is finished. :alan2cents:
Quote from: cudaragtop on February 03, 2021, 10:47:23 AM
Quote from: anlauto on February 01, 2021, 01:01:17 PM
Next up was the unit itself....again, just fab'd a mounting bracket with two mounting studs and plug welded it to the transmission crossmember...and two more studs welded through the floor. Drill an access hole for the wiring in the cross member and the floor right above...
It now sits level with the rocker and maybe an 1/2" lower them the pinch weld...I figure the exhaust will be a lot lower...
Looks Good Alan!
I was looking into changing the Parking brake in our 69 project car to a hand brake on the floor next to the driver's seat and also looked at the E-Stop but have not pulled the trigger on either yet...
Three questions:
1. Is the E-Stop as loud, slow and sound as annoying in person as in their videos? The beeping would drive me nuts.
2. Does the light in the button stay on even after you turn the key off?
3. Does it draw current when parked and the E-Brake is on and the key is off?
Thanks,
Randy
The 'beeper' can be muffled or disconnected.
The light turns off
It draws no current after it locks in place.
Looks good Alan. You have it mounted quite similar to mine other than the brackets on mine are off the frame connectors rather than the crossmember. And mine is on the passenger side. I removed the cigar lighter and put the estopp button in it's place. Perfect fit.
I ordered Lokar cables to go from the estopp to the brake assy. They come 8' long and you cut to fit. They come complete with the attachment hware needed to attach to the backing plate.
If you didn't do it already, install a 10 amp inline fuse on the +ve feed to the control box.
:alan2cents:
what colour and brand do you use for the side markers?
The marker lights themselves come from PG Classics...
The rear housings were glass beaded and sprayed with RATTLE CAN Tremclad satin Clear.
The front housings were glass beaded, sprayed with RATTLE CAN Dupli-colour GOLD followed by the same satin clear.
Of course there are plenty of better ways to finish these housings, either with the proper plating or even powder coating....but I like cheaper simpler methods...the fronts will get blasted with undercoating on this particular car anyways.
Thanks for asking :drinkingbud:
Each housing has six little barbs to aid in the grounding of the light. I mask up these areas and leave them bare metal. :alan2cents: (you can kind of make it out on the fronts)
Quote from: anlauto on February 05, 2021, 07:43:37 PM
Each housing has six little barbs to aid in the grounding of the light. I mask up these areas and leave them bare metal. :alan2cents: (you can kind of make it out on the fronts)
Do they really need grounding? Isn't one of the leads to the bulb a ground?
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 06, 2021, 02:29:33 AM
Quote from: anlauto on February 05, 2021, 07:43:37 PM
Each housing has six little barbs to aid in the grounding of the light. I mask up these areas and leave them bare metal. :alan2cents: (you can kind of make it out on the fronts)
Do they really need grounding? Isn't one of the leads to the bulb a ground?
YES you are correct, one of the leads at the front is a ground. I just like to be well grounded :rofl:
Grounds or lack of, on these cars are notorious for wiring/electrical issues...
Since the rear markers are just one wire bulb sockets I added a ground wire to insure a good ground.
You can't have too many good grounds.
Not to be confused with dead shorts!
Exactly :twothumbsup:
are the cuda marker lights prone to the same issues?
Quote from: Shoooter on February 06, 2021, 08:33:46 AM
are the cuda marker lights prone to the same issues?
They all depend on the housing to ground to the body. :alan2cents:
More pictures and story can always be found on my website :drinkingbud: http://www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com/71PL4-RESTOMOD.html
Cooling system finished. :banana:
I was able to hide the water control valve along with the heater hoses inside to cowl....All I did was turn the outlets on the box upward and drilled holes in my block-off plate. ... remember I move the box over to the right about 8". Still plenty of room for the factory glove box too :bigthumb:
Also the AC lines inside hidden the wheel well....My plan is to paint all the silver tubes black...
Added bearing...So I restored the steering column today...Because we're running rack & pinion steering, I thought it was a good idea to add a second bearing for more support....The B & A Body lower column bearing fits right in the E Body column...just drill a couple of holes to secure it with the bolts supplied....
The double D rod will get cut to length once I get the front suspension and engine in place...
Got my "Amazon" emblems mounted on my Tommy The Chryco shaker bubble/grills :twothumbsup:
Because I'm installing Dakota Digital dash which is "backlite" I decided to get rid of the factory lights in the light bar....May be slightly over kill for a part that's not really seen....
I thought I would at least start which a standard light bar and not the elusive rally dash light bar....
Looks like you are enjoying the welding projects Alan. You are doing more on this project than normal. Looks good
Yea...for sure...This is something that I would have just taken to the idea to Keith Sim and let him knock it out...For me, it's a learning experience, and fun too....However, I will be invoicing a lot more overall labour hours on this project then on a regular restoration... :bigmoney: Something I made my customer well aware of up front...
Still waiting on the suspension, so I'm messing with everything else. I got the firewall reinforcement plate modified, the brake booster mounted and hooked to the pedal, the proportioning valve mounted and all the lines made....This car will certainly re-assemble pretty quick after it's painted...
This morning I replaced the mangled lower rad support with a new AMD piece, this way I could actually test fit the rad. Fits great ! Got all the AC lines in place with the fenders and the two wiring harnesses are finished with the AC wiring along with the electric fans and the halo lights...last picture is of the fender with NO more antenna hole... :)
surprised you didn't go with a hydro-boost, I sure like the looks & performance of mine!
I don't know what that is exactly ?
Ah, instead of pulling vacuum from the intake and having a big canister it uses a device that runs off of the power steering pump. It has a small vacuum cylinder that provides enough for ~4-5 break pedal pumps in case the power steering belt comes off. It is great if you have a big cam or just can't get enough vacuum. Not the best pic, but all I've got for now.
Quote from: anlauto on February 27, 2021, 03:46:15 PM
I don't know what that is exactly ?
Quote from: 70vert on February 27, 2021, 05:49:34 PM
Ah, instead of pulling vacuum from the intake and having a big canister it uses a device that runs off of the power steering pump. It has a small vacuum cylinder that provides enough for ~4-5 break pedal pumps in case the power steering belt comes off. It is great if you have a big cam or just can't get enough vacuum. Not the best pic, but all I've got for now.
Quote from: anlauto on February 27, 2021, 03:46:15 PM
I don't know what that is exactly ?
Oh, thank you that's very interesting.... :thinking: It will have to be considered "next time" for sure, thank you :drinkingbud:
Alan, Master Pwr Brakes also has a stand alone Electric vacuum pump as used in some Tesla's. expensive but works and will out last the car. i was looking at it for an issue with wife's Mustang but solved the problem.. Pn AC9001K. take a look its cool...
Quote from: SRT392 on February 27, 2021, 07:37:57 PM
Alan, Master Pwr Brakes also has a stand alone Electric vacuum pump as used in some Tesla's. expensive but works and will out last the car. i was looking at it for an issue with wife's Mustang but solved the problem.. Pn AC9001K. take a look its cool...
:haha: I did a quick search of that part number and the first link was Walmart.... :haha: some guys are lucky they can buy their parts at Walmart :looney:
Interesting idea though :twothumbsup:
its on Master Power Brakes Web Site https://www.mpbrakes.com/accessories/ac9001k-silent-drive-electric-vacuum-pump-kit.asp
this should take you to it
Well I guess I'll wait for a flashing blue light special :crazytalk: https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Master-Power-Brakes-AC9001K-Silent-Drive-Vacuum-Pump-System/PRD3NGQSVD6OGHE
I'm still watching every step of this build. It looks great!
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Thanks I appreciate that Mr. Donkey, :drinkingbud:
It should start moving along....I'm scheduled to get the suspension tomorrow from RMS :checkmail:
Yea Randy, I saw that in your build thread, very cool and is going to give you a super clean engine compartment. It won't help supply vacuum boost to your brakes though :thinking:
Doh! It was a late night... :Thud: manual 4 wheel disc brakes :cheers:
hmm, my 2015 JGC has electric power assist brakes but still has fluid and reservoir (special fluid). It is a cool set up though, eliminate another pully & belt.
Lots of "fun parts" arrived today ! :banana: :banana: :banana:
Are you running coil overs with no reinforcement of the shock towers? :o
Is that a RMS 4 link in the rear? I'm don't plan on going that route myself. But what do you think of that suspension? I'm leaning towards buying everything hotchkiss for my rear suspension with a 1" rear leaf spring relocation kit.
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In the past I've installed and worked with Control Freak rear suspension.
This RMS set is much better and easier to install. It won't allow wider tires because it uses the factory spring perches to mount the lower link bars.
There is practically unlimited adjustment in this thing, especially for pinion angles etc... and you can raise and lower the shock mounts and even reposition the lower bars for "track" use....
I just like it 'cause it looks cool 8)
Unlucky week 13 I guess....
First off...I've been playing with cars for 40 years and until yesterday I've never owned METRIC tools :headbang: What the heck ? American Muscle with metric bolts....Two trips to CDN Tire to buy a couple of tools, and likely one more tomorrow.. :pullinghair:
Went to swap on the new Holley center sump oil pan, and in the good ol' quality standards of the day....there was no way the new sump would bolt up with the flange clocked way off....Nothing a bunch of heat wouldn't fix...
After swaping the oil pan, I moved on the clutter up the front of the engine with all the accessories, only to finish my day by finding out that the main harness is designed for a passenger side mounted starter motor, not driver's side like I'm using :drunk: More wire splicing I guess :bricks:
So actually the wiring worked out well. I very carefully cut into the $2000 harness and removed all the major red feed wire. Because they were all soldered together in two splices, I was able to switch them around and head them in different directions. My old starter cable will now go in the car and be my main feed, etc.... Then I was able to re-tape it so the main bulk of the wiring can now enter the can in a more centered location. I have to cut a 2.5" hole in the firewall I figure.
Tim from FHO supplied the TTI exhaust which his lovely wife Adele dropped off at my shop today :twothumbsup:
So I was also able to temporarily install the headers and the RMS front K-Frame with the steering rack....
Just curious. What wiring harness are they using?
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Quote from: Swamp Donkey on March 09, 2021, 05:38:00 PM
Just curious. What wiring harness are they using?
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This one https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/gen-iii-392-hemi-6-4-wiring-kit/
Looking good there. Definitely a different step for you.
Here is a pic of hydroboost setup I put on mine a few years back.
Doubles the necessary power steering lines.
Looks like an awesome project! Nice progress so far! :twothumbsup:
Quote from: Smallblock340 on March 10, 2021, 03:35:52 AM
Looks like an awesome project! Nice progress so far! :twothumbsup:
Thank you....it's been a nice escape 8)
Well here we go....you always remember your first....This is my first stab at a Gen III Hemi install ... so far so good...
Little tight at the back, but my heater hose idea worked out well.....Well not "MY" idea....but you know what :drunk: I mean
Check this out.....ALL the wiring is inside the car along with the new PCM and power box that came with the 392.....and because I moved the Vintage Air over to the right quite a bit, they was enough room to tuck the PCM up and out of sight ! All the cables including the two power cables reached perfectly to where they had to go. :) It's mounted with three bolts welded solid to the fire wall...
Nice! Didn't know there was so much room behind the Vintage Air unit, is it gonna be hard to get to the PCM after everything is installed?
Quote from: soundcontrol on March 11, 2021, 02:41:06 PM
Nice! Didn't know there was so much room behind the Vintage Air unit, is it gonna be hard to get to the PCM after everything is installed?
YUP...1000% for sure...there is NO WAY to access the PCM without a major disassembly ... :fingerscrossed: you never have to access it :headbang:
The PCM "just" fits there, maybe 1/4" between the two, and it's no where near the heater core section of the box., if anything the box will be running cold with the AC blasting during the Summer months. :thinking:
Two questions Alan.
How are you going to put the 2/3 speed wiper on? and
So much for putting the firewall insulation eh?
In that picture the back of the engine will actually move forward a bit when I raise the transmission into it's final resting place. :alan2cents:
Pretty much done the mock-up as far as I'm going to go.
Two more things I want to tackle before I take the engine out, and that a cold air intake system anf mounting the shaker bubble, both of which I'm still waiting for parts. Got a mass of hoses with the power steering and AC lines taking up the same area with a ground strap as well. You can see I'm going with a "black" theme 8)
In the mean time I thought I would put all the body panels together in one pile and get it ready to go to the body shop. I like to assemble everything so I know they have all the parts including all the hardware that needs to get painted...
Looking good Alan! Where did you source your black AC hose ends? Or did you just paint them? At some point this summer I'll be doing the A/C lines on my Javelin project and like the looks of the black over the natural .
Yes, I just prepped them, then black self-etching primer and gloss black paint. Wurth products. I have no clue how it will hold up...but it looks nice, did all the hard lines too :dunno:
Do you have the shaker bubble yet? I am curious how much space is between the intake manifold and the adapter ring.... if any. :popcorn:
Quote from: BFM_Cuda on March 18, 2021, 05:09:38 PM
Do you have the shaker bubble yet? I am curious how much space is between the intake manifold and the adapter ring.... if any. :popcorn:
YES...I set just the bubble directly on top of the motor and it has to come up almost a good two inches....
I've ordered the OEM "new" shaker mounting bracket for the engine, that gives me a "flat" surface to work with, then I figure I can weld on some arms to reach out and mount the 70-71 Shaker adaptor ring...I can adjust the height buy stepping the arms up or down or even just using spacers were the adaptor ring will mount....
Sounds good in theory at least :thinking: :haha: :haha:
:D
Tommy The Chryco :worship:
Quote from: anlauto on March 18, 2021, 06:56:49 PM
Quote from: BFM_Cuda on March 18, 2021, 05:09:38 PM
Do you have the shaker bubble yet? I am curious how much space is between the intake manifold and the adapter ring.... if any. :popcorn:
YES...I set just the bubble directly on top of the motor and it has to come up almost a good two inches....
I've ordered the OEM "new" shaker mounting bracket for the engine, that gives me a "flat" surface to work with, then I figure I can weld on some arms to reach out and mount the 70-71 Shaker adaptor ring...I can adjust the height buy stepping the arms up or down or even just using spacers were the adaptor ring will mount....
Sounds good in theory at least :thinking: :haha: :haha:
Thanks for the info. :cheers:
So... with the new-style shaker parts are you hoping to make the old style shaker functional? I was hoping to add a shaker to mine, but might not bother putting the effort in if it isn't functional. :thinking:
Quote from: BFM_Cuda on March 18, 2021, 08:09:37 PM
Quote from: anlauto on March 18, 2021, 06:56:49 PM
Quote from: BFM_Cuda on March 18, 2021, 05:09:38 PM
Do you have the shaker bubble yet? I am curious how much space is between the intake manifold and the adapter ring.... if any. :popcorn:
YES...I set just the bubble directly on top of the motor and it has to come up almost a good two inches....
I've ordered the OEM "new" shaker mounting bracket for the engine, that gives me a "flat" surface to work with, then I figure I can weld on some arms to reach out and mount the 70-71 Shaker adaptor ring...I can adjust the height buy stepping the arms up or down or even just using spacers were the adaptor ring will mount....
Sounds good in theory at least :thinking: :haha: :haha:
Thanks for the info. :cheers:
So... with the new-style shaker parts are you hoping to make the old style shaker functional? I was hoping to add a shaker to mine, but might not bother putting the effort in if it isn't functional. :thinking:
It will allow air into the engine compartment, but I wouldn't say it was directly functional, purely for external appearance in this case :alan2cents:
Gave up waiting for front tires from Summit and bought them locally and got them the next day :headbang:
All mounted and balanced and look great in my opinion, I love those YearOne rims :drooling:
Not exactly the exact ride height, but my cardboard selection was a little light today... :haha:
Also fabricated the cold air intake today :brainiac: turned out great...
Next is the shaker, and then everything can come apart...
How close is a modern OEM shaker to lining up with the old shaker hood? Any idea? It would be sweet to make that into a cold air intake!
On Saturday, my Neighbour had a friend over with a Shaker hood new Challenger....I asked the guy to pop the hood, it looked like a open tube coming from one side of the shaker feed into the air box where the filter was, that's it ???....The owner told me only one side of the scoop was functional... :dunno:
Where did you buy the crate engine from somewhere in Canada?
Quote from: gygeneral on March 23, 2021, 04:54:58 PM
Where did you buy the crate engine from somewhere in Canada?
I priced it at my local dealer, but the owner got it for a better deal at an Alberta dealership, and had enough connections in the trucking business that he got it sent here pretty cheap....I went back to my local dealer, and told them what happened...they said they would match the price for me on the "next" 392 I want to buy....LoL :rofl:
The estimate I got for just the engine, no accessories was $11Kish CDN, with all the stuff and 13% tax it was just over $16K CDN all in.
[/quote]
I priced it at my local dealer, but the owner got it for a better deal at an Alberta dealership, and had enough connections in the trucking business that he got it sent here pretty cheap....I went back to my local dealer, and told them what happened...they said they would match the price for me on the "next" 392 I want to buy....LoL :rofl:
The estimate I got for just the engine, no accessories was $11Kish CDN, with all the stuff and 13% tax it was just over $16K CDN all in.
[/quote]
Thanks, I'm itching to build and I'm thinking the next one will be a something like your doing.
Quote from: gygeneral on March 24, 2021, 05:25:18 AM
Thanks, I'm itching to build and I'm thinking the next one will be a something like your doing.
I would love to build one for myself as well. We just need all the stars to align :thinking:
IF I did I would use the exact same recipe as this car..I really like the way this is turning out...
If I can be of any help getting a motor, just let me know..
Okay...I bought the "new" shaker mounting bracket and welded six new arms on it, trimmed up my new shaker adaptor ring, made my own diamond washers, and budda bing budda boom...the shaker is mounted... :banana:
:cheers: :canada:
That came out perfect Alan! :yes: :twothumbsup: :banana:
Thank you...I love it when a plan comes together....Motor comes out tomorrow, and it's off to the body shop :banana:
Looking great!
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Looks good Alan, I'm sure the customer will love it. Just me I guess but I would have went with a T/A hood , Made the T/A that "never was" in Winchester grey, or butterscotch .
I've never been much of a Shaker fan I guess, less so knowing it's "fake" /non functioning . Great big heat sink, air restriction ,heavy, PITA to work on , and crazy expensive. At least this one will let some heat out...?
But Customers are always right!
So at the beginning of this my customer gave me an unrealistic time line of 225 days for the complete build....Today is the half way point....
Although it doesn't look like I have much done, I think I'm in a pretty good position to make the deadline.
Today I removed the driveline, placed the car on the cart and got it to the body shop: UNFORTUNATELY it's now out of my hands ....We all know how body shops can be :'(
:fingerscrossed:
I can't tell the difference.........Can you tell the difference ? :brainiac:
With the car out at the body shop, not much happening here. Assembled the rest of the front suspension along with both hubs and the six piston caliper brakes :yes:
Hope to get out to the body shop after the holiday weekend and see if there progress yet :fingerscrossed:
This build is fantastic.
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Awesome job Alan. Your customer is gonna be very pleased.
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Thank you very much....Yea the owner is pretty stoked...we're already discussing doing a matching Cuda, but having a hard time finding a donor car to start with. :'(
To my surprise the body shop is moving right along....They got a lot of the dents knocked out....welded up the BSM holes in the quarters and doors...and today they patched the driver's side lower rear quarter....
Moving right along....I'm impressed
Body work is coming right along....Thought I would share this sequence of pictures they sent me today....I'm glad to see they're not just filling pin hole with goop....This is the front lower corner of the passenger side door...
This is one very cool project... I didn't catch the specs on the wheels and tires, can you share/reshare them with me?
:)
Thank you for all the pics / details, looking forward to the completion on this one.
YearOne 17 X 8 and 17 X 9 Rallies
Nitto 225/50ZR/17 and 255/50ZR/17
Thanks Alan, much appreciated. Those wheels look sharp.
What's in those rockauto boxes? More voodoo magic like when you had the car standing on its side with no traces of support?
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Great job Alan. Keep up the good work.
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If you lived close to KY I could send you some work.
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Quote from: Swamp Donkey on April 15, 2021, 08:45:26 PM
What's in those rockauto boxes? More voodoo magic like when you had the car standing on its side with no traces of support?
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Just a empty box... 8)
Quote from: ebodyproducts on April 16, 2021, 12:15:26 AM
Great job Alan. Keep up the good work.
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The body and paint work is being done by Saunders Customs, I can't take the credit.... :stop:
I totally envy all the guys on here that do their own body work, even painting their cars in the driveway and they turn out great....that's some real talent there :worship:
Body work is moving right along....
Still looking for tail panel reflectors and a wide seam vinyl top :rubeyes:
On the last picture, is all the bare metal just to the left of the shock tower because you had to do some notching of the frame for an oil filter, alternator or ac compressor? Or is it just bare for the fun of it all?
Picked this up from the powder coaters today, turned out nice....Now I've got something to assemble while waiting on the body shop :banana:
Quote from: anlauto on April 27, 2021, 05:51:14 AM
@Blake@diyhemi.com (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/blakeatdiyhemi-com_179) you should scroll through this thread and let me know what you think about my first attempt at installing a crate 392 into an E Body...Challenges with installing PCM and fuse box inside the car instead of in the engine compartment....figuring out the AC system and how to mount the 70-71 Shaker, etc... etc...
I would love any feedback or opinions on how to do things better, easier, more efficient ..... I get the feeling this won't be my last :D
Looking good! I see you employ many of the trucks I use in our builds, so I can definitely see you have been really doing your homework. Thumbs up sir!
Two pieces of advice that may help you out in the future.
1. The tanks in tanks are beautiful, but the fuel pump noise is loud. I recommend getting just the foam insert from an aeromotive phantom efi fuel kit and insulating the pump sending unit before going in. It greatly reduces fuel pump noise and gives added protection from fuel pump starvation. When I Autocrossed my car last with the standard tanks in setup like that, the fuel slosh starved the pump on 2 of my runs, killing my time on those passes.
2. Instead of doing the notch for alternator clearance, buy the alternator for a 2006-2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 5.7 or 6.1. It mounts in the same location, but different bolting flange. It gives additional clearances needed, without notching. Also it doesn't take a special accessory belt, same belt as the car setup because pulley center lines are the same.
Keep up the great work, I will be following!
We have a YouTube video on the alternator swap https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJ2_q_8q0R_r9P2BchvK6mvboE3jHoy6x
Quote from: Blake@diyhemi.com on April 27, 2021, 06:22:01 PM
2. Instead of doing the notch for alternator clearance, buy the alternator for a 2006-2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 5.7 or 6.1. It mounts in the same location, but different bolting flange. It gives additional clearances needed, without notching. Also it doesn't take a special accessory belt, same belt as the car setup because pulley center lines are the same.
Keep up the great work, I will be following!
We have a YouTube video on the alternator swap https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJ2_q_8q0R_r9P2BchvK6mvboE3jHoy6x
Great tip, thanks Blake! Glad I didn't notch the rail yet.... :cheers:
thanks Blake :twothumbsup:
Interesting info on the alternator.
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Thanks, I might have to try that alternator next time, although I didn't mind notching the frame on this car, it's not like we're going to put the 318 back in anytime soon :no: You got some great videos there, I wish I had of found them six months ago :lurking:
My first "rotisserie restoration " :banana: :banana:
All the car's I've done in the past, the different body shops I've dealt with, nobody's ever put the car on a rotisserie before...Kinda cool.. :twothumbsup:
So with the car in the body shop, time to work on getting everything ready....
Bringing up the rear....all that's left is to add oil :D
...and of course the E Brake cables will be cut to length once the rear end is installed :tool:
If you find the stock rally gauge dash wiring a bit of a challenge.....then this is certainly going to take you back a step....
This wiring started as a new M&H rally dash harness, but now includes:
1. The interior and exterior wiring for the new 392 Hemi...Most people mount the PCM in the engine compartment, but I have everything inside.
2. Dakota Digital dash with a BCM box
3. USB jacks for charging your phone
4. Vintage Air...no cables, all electronic
5. ESTOPP electric parking brake
6. Likely things I'm forgetting :tired:
Major body work done...primer this week (tomorrow hopefully)...blocking starts next week... :banana:
Often times on this forum I've mentioned that installing the side glass was one of my favorite parts of any restoration. Well, it takes plenty of preparation. This car came to me with some windows in, some windows out, some hardware here, some hardware there....
Today was STEP ONE:
Inventory, make sure you have everything for all four pieces of glass..
...and I got through my STEP TWO as well which was taking every single bolt to the wire wheel, cleaning them up and giving them a nice coat of rust paint to look new again....YES, they should be plated, but not in the budget ::)
Did you know there's over 60 bolts/nuts/washers, etc... ? :o
Everything sealed up with another coat of epoxy, then a nice coat of high build primer...Blocking should start next week after some cure time...
Body shop started with metal work 41 days ago.....I'm certainly happy with their progress :twothumbsup:
Quote from: anlauto on May 05, 2021, 11:23:58 AM
Often times on this forum I've mentioned that installing the side glass was one of my favorite parts of any restoration. Well, it takes plenty of preparation. This car came to me with some windows in, some windows out, some hardware here, some hardware there....
Today was STEP ONE:
Inventory, make sure you have everything for all four pieces of glass..
...and I got through my STEP TWO as well which was taking every single bolt to the wire wheel, cleaning them up and giving them a nice coat of rust paint to look new again....YES, they should be plated, but not in the budget ::)
Did you know there's over 60 bolts/nuts/washers, etc... ? :o
Wow, you are so methodical and organized, I wish I wold have done this...
Love this build, its going to be awesome when done..
Quote from: Rbob on May 06, 2021, 08:39:10 AM
Wow, you are so methodical and organized, I wish I wold have done this...
Love this build, its going to be awesome when done..
Thanks Rbob....I've been called worse :rofl: :rofl: :drinkingbud:
Quote from: anlauto on May 05, 2021, 07:02:00 PM
Everything sealed up with another coat of epoxy, then a nice coat of high build primer...Blocking should start next week after some cure time...
Body shop started with metal work 41 days ago.....I'm certainly happy with their progress :twothumbsup:
Your lucky if the car looks like that after 41 days, I'm at 700+ and not yet in primer. :headbang:
Outside...got these pictures just now... :worship:
Show me them pearly whites!
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..and speaking of back seats...
Were adding Cipher custom front buckets, so I bought extra matching material directly from Cipher to have my upholstery guy, Scott Davis, sew up a nice complementing rear seat cover... He did a fantastic job matching the two different types of stitching etc....
...and the heart of the beast....This assembly is 100% ready to go....just lift the car and roll right under...
:yes: Visual Impact!
How comfy are those seats? Or have you sat in them yet? Did you modify the brackets? I need details!!!! Haha
I haven't really "sat in them" yet...I did have the bottoms mounted in the car when working on the tracks. They come with brackets that I had to modify to fit in an E Body...I'll see if I get a minute tomorrow to take pictures. :takepicture:
Great project! Impressive pictures from the body shop and 392 Hemi. :twothumbsup:
Nice to see this e-body coming to life :popcorn:
Looking good Alan :bigthumb:
How did you clean up the ashtray interior? Mine looks like crap from smokers in the 70's.
Fantastic, the body , the dash, the beast of an engine, WOW. :ohyeah:
Quote from: dodj on May 20, 2021, 04:13:41 AM
Looking good Alan :bigthumb:
How did you clean up the ashtray interior? Mine looks like crap from smokers in the 70's.
Just sent it out with other parts to be glass beaded, then used a spray bomb to paint it. TONY offers a nice properly plated replacement ashtray, but that wasn't too high on the priority list for this type project.
Silly question but does a radio delete car still get the dash center speaker or is it a different dash pad?
Looks great
Quote from: Shoooter on May 20, 2021, 05:53:54 AM
Silly question but does a radio delete car still get the dash center speaker or is it a different dash pad?
Looks great
They use the same dash pad, but there's a carboard block-off plate where the speaker goes under the speaker grill, and of course no antenna hole in the fender. :bigthumb:
Cool. Do they tilt ahead for easy access for passengers in the rear?
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YES, but not quite as far as a stock E-Body seat...no fat chicks in the back...sorry
Haha. I can handle that.
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I notice on the pictures of the gauges and switches that the top and bottom silver lines don't line up on the gauge and switch bezels, the gauge bezel being higher by about the thickness of the line. My 74 is the same way. Were most of the dashes like this?
Alan, it looks like cipher makes brackets for 1970-74 challengers. This is not the ones you got with your seats I'm assuming with all the modifications you made to your seat tracks. https://cipherauto.com/products/cipher-auto-racing-seat-bracket-dodge-challenger
Quote from: Swamp Donkey on May 24, 2021, 04:41:18 PM
Alan, it looks like cipher makes brackets for 1970-74 challengers. This is not the ones you got with your seats I'm assuming with all the modifications you made to your seat tracks. https://cipherauto.com/products/cipher-auto-racing-seat-bracket-dodge-challenger
Yes, my customer failed to purchase those, so I did just work with the tracks that came with the seats, and an original set as mentioned. I saw those after the fact of course :headbang:
Quote from: blown motor on May 24, 2021, 03:42:11 PM
I notice on the pictures of the gauges and switches that the top and bottom silver lines don't line up on the gauge and switch bezels, the gauge bezel being higher by about the thickness of the line. My 74 is the same way. Were most of the dashes like this?
I fought with that for awhile, but gave up. My excuse was the fact I used an original gauge housing and a reproduction corner housing, they didn't fit together that well on the bench, never mind in the dash...With the reproduction corner piece, I had to drill the top two mounting holes as well...that could have caused the tiny difference in alignment you see :rubeyes: :headbang:
Quote from: anlauto on May 24, 2021, 05:27:40 PM
Quote from: blown motor on May 24, 2021, 03:42:11 PM
I notice on the pictures of the gauges and switches that the top and bottom silver lines don't line up on the gauge and switch bezels, the gauge bezel being higher by about the thickness of the line. My 74 is the same way. Were most of the dashes like this?
I fought with that for awhile, but gave up. My excuse was the fact I used an original gauge housing and a reproduction corner housing, they didn't fit together that well on the bench, never mind in the dash...With the reproduction corner piece, I had to drill the top two mounting holes as well...that could have caused the tiny difference in alignment you see :rubeyes: :headbang:
Maybe you could put a shim on the screws on the housing to bring it down some? How little it is, still would drive me nuts, right in drivers view. :alan2cents:
I agree, I will likely revisit it when I get a moment...personally I don't think it's that "far" off, I've seen a lot worse...
Quote from: anlauto on May 20, 2021, 05:41:47 AM
Quote from: dodj on May 20, 2021, 04:13:41 AM
Looking good Alan :bigthumb:
How did you clean up the ashtray interior? Mine looks like crap from smokers in the 70's.
Just sent it out with other parts to be glass beaded, then used a spray bomb to paint it. TONY offers a nice properly plated replacement ashtray, but that wasn't too high on the priority list for this type project.
Thanks Alan :bigthumb:
It wasn't a night priority for me either, until I put the estopp button there. Now I open it frequently... and see a used, crusty ash tray.
Back on post #108 you mentioned you assembled the electric fan shroud for the frostbite radiator. Is that a 3 or 4 core radiator and do you have a part number for the fan/shroud kit. I'm thinking I will get the 4 row radiator. Holley and google are not being cooperative for a part number for the shroud kit for a Frostbite FB701 radiator.
Quote from: Swamp Donkey on May 27, 2021, 10:02:19 PM
Back on post #108 you mentioned you assembled the electric fan shroud for the frostbite radiator. Is that a 3 or 4 core radiator and do you have a part number for the fan/shroud kit. I'm thinking I will get the 4 row radiator. Holley and google are not being cooperative for a part number for the shroud kit for a Frostbite FB701 radiator.
@Swamp Donkey (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/swamp-donkey_961) My customer bought both through Summit Racing, the FB701 radiator and the FB502H https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fbr-fb502h
Week 25 ....Only 175 days since I picked up this car and the guys at Saunders Customs are moving right along, wanting to paint the roof before it comes off of the rotisserie.
So here it is in first black base, then with a clear top coat. Now the roof will be sanded with 800 grit to prep for the vinyl top. (When I find one :pullinghair:)
Roof is nice and straight now considering all the dents it had :twothumbsup:
Up next is all the jambs, engine & trunk compartment etc...then it goes back on my cart...I think, or it goes on the cart first :dunno: :D
Steady progress.... gotta like that. :ohyeah:
Quote from: BFM_Cuda on May 29, 2021, 05:14:23 PM
Steady progress.... gotta like that. :ohyeah:
Yea, but I think the lack of a vinyl top will prevent me from finishing the car on time. :crying: :crying: :crying:
What other items are there long waiting times and back ordered? I heard dashes are in short supply. Anything else off the top of your noggin?
Quote from: anlauto on May 29, 2021, 05:49:42 PM
Quote from: BFM_Cuda on May 29, 2021, 05:14:23 PM
Steady progress.... gotta like that. :ohyeah:
Yea, but I think the lack of a vinyl top will prevent me from finishing the car on time. :crying: :crying: :crying:
I guess you or "your customer" never called B/E & A Restoration Parts (like I mentioned over a month ago). Mike said he sold the Wide seam vinyl top he had last week to a customer overseas. I assume that didn't mean Canada unless overseas mean's Lake Erie. Sounds like an missed opportunity to get the car done on time.
Oh well :dunno:
Back in black....Plan is Raptor liner for the wheel wells and underneath...
Otherwise she's looking sweet...
The black paint looks nice and it is a nice departure from the typical colors you see them wear. However, its an unforgiving color.
I'm glad I will only have to keep it clean until the customer picks it up :haha:
My SRT is black, looks great for about an hour after I wash it! :D
And I'm still going with black on the convertible...
Quote from: anlauto on June 04, 2021, 02:04:34 PM
I'm glad I will only have to keep it clean until the customer picks it up :haha:
That and the fact that every little ding and scratch scream for attention.
Rolled it out into the sun today to have a look...WoW :drooling: I'm impressed so far and it still has to be polished... These are new guys that I'm using, and I'm very please so far... :worship:
Looks really great! :perfect10: Nothing like a black Chally or Cuda. :banana:
How much clearance is there between the electric fans on the rad and the water pump? Does that car have an electric water pump?
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The water pump is factory belt driven. I don't have an exact measurement for you, but I would describe it as "tons of room" :alan2cents:
Wow! That is quite the fender tag! I'll try to decode it later after work. That has a ton of information about the car, even the builder is on it! Pretty freakin cool !!
Won't be long now....
Oh my! Would you like to come live in my shop for 28 weeks please. I have two different kind of cheese in my beer fridge!
Just ship your car here and make nice easy monthly payments... :bigmoney: :haha: :haha: :haha:
Great build Alan!
Do you have any progress pictures or details of the grill restoration? I'm building a very similar 71 and would love to see your process on the grill resto.
Thanks, Wes
Quote from: moparcar on June 25, 2021, 06:18:45 PM
Great build Alan!
Do you have any progress pictures or details of the grill restoration? I'm building a very similar 71 and would love to see your process on the grill resto.
Thanks, Wes
Sorry, no real detail pics of the process....I drilled out the rivets of the two large snorkels and removed them, and lot of hand sanding and masking... :dunno: Some dull aluminum and flat black paint, then riveted the parts back together...✌
............and now the fun starts... :banana: :banana:
Looks awesome. Did you ever track down a vinyl top?
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Quote from: Swamp Donkey on June 30, 2021, 10:38:27 AM
Looks awesome. Did you ever track down a vinyl top?
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NO still looking for a wide seam black vinyl top :'( :'( :'(
Alan, Looks really good.. I think they should have just painted the roof black and forgot the vinyl.. Nice work so far!!!
Quote from: CNUMB on June 30, 2021, 12:20:43 PM
Alan, Looks really good.. I think they should have just painted the roof black and forgot the vinyl.. Nice work so far!!!
Don't even go there. you know how many times I thought about that :looney: I think vinyl will look good with the louvers... 8)
96* today without the humidex....Got an early start today, but it still took me all day. Started masking the car, and applied seven liters of Raptor Liner to the bottom side....As that was drying, I decide to black-out the tail panel while the car was still covered up...
Day 213....another scorcher of a day feeling like 101*......
Started with assembling the rear....
Awesome.
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Day 214...That flat black looks nice against the gloss black, but it makes it hard to work on... 8)
Still would like a set of reflectors for the tail panel :headbang:
Day 215...More small stuff.... :dunno:
Day 216...Love the black headlights the customer chose, they go great with the "black" theme....
Actually one of my other customers uses one and he loves it :bigthumb:
It's worth the $$$$, but it will not be the Challenger's forever spot. ;)
:haha: :bigthumb:
Day 219...When you spend a day doing little stuff, it doesn't look like much. :tired: I custom mounted and painted the rad overflow bottle and PS reservoir today, along with all the AC lines and rad installed...Ready for the engine I think :thinking:
Do you like my windshield washer hose trick ? I ran it in the wheel well to keep a cleaner look under the hood :D
Dat ting gotta Hemi in it.... ;)
Wow! Been a while since I checked in. Looking awesome, Alan. :twothumbsup:
Awesome. This car is fantastic!
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Nice stamp on bumper brackets!
Quote from: GCragtop on July 14, 2021, 03:03:53 AM
Nice stamp on bumper brackets!
Secret trade mark.... :haha: :haha:
Day 223 Love doing me some side glass... :twothumbsup:
Looks good! Those headlights are growing on me! I like them, goes well with the style of the car! :bradsthumb:
They do look very similar to a modern Challenger :alan2cents: The owner picked them and I was quite surprised, I like them too.. :twothumbsup:
:worship: :worship: :worship:
Day 226...
Headliner turned out beautiful, my upholstery guy, Scott is a genius when it comes to that stuff...
Don't care who you are...Dyna-Mat will take a lot longer to install then you figure it will :pullinghair:
Day 227...
Man o man there's a lot going on under there....hiding all the aftermarket AC combined with and the engine computer stuff and Dakota Digital dash was a challenge, but it's done under there now.....turned out pretty tidy, but have to wonder if it all works :headbang:
I guess I never tought about it, was surprised on the use of the old fuse box. I guess to upgrade that you can't use the dash harness. I would of tought you needed more juice
There's another Mopar fuse box in the second picture that runs the motor, fans, fuel pump etc... :alan2cents:
Oh I see it now, great work
What is A.G.A.R.?
Quote from: Chris D. on July 20, 2021, 05:34:35 PM
What is A.G.A.R.?
Alan
Gallant
Automotive
Restoration.
It's an acronym for the name of my company :twothumbsup:
Thanks. :slapme5:
Quote from: anlauto on July 20, 2021, 05:41:39 PM
Quote from: Chris D. on July 20, 2021, 05:34:35 PM
What is A.G.A.R.?
Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration.
It's an acronym for the name of my company :twothumbsup:
Could you still fit a kid in the back seat with those?
Don't see why not...unless you like to recline way back :dunno:
Did you get the back seats embroidered to match?
Quote from: Shoooter on July 23, 2021, 09:39:43 AM
Did you get the back seats embroidered to match?
Yes I had a custom cover sewn up to match with the same fabric from Cipher...I think if you scroll back there's a picture somewhere :thinking:
Done with this dam Dyna-mat :headbang:
Black on black baby...gotta love it 8)
I like the Skat Pac Bee decal in the right quarter window.
Looks great!
Well lookie lookie what has arrived on Day 240 :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
The last piece of the puzzle proves that good things come to those that wait....My Legendary wide seam vinyl top that was ordered December 6th 2020 arrive today finally...
Hopefully I can get it installed next weekend :fingerscrossed:
Day 245 action shot :ohyeah:
....and finally on Day 246....TAH- DAH.....the elusive wide seam vinyl top has found a home.. :haha: :haha:
Beauty car!!
Thanks Murray, it now has a nice balance of gloss black and matte black....I like it ;)
Looks fantastic!
Looks tremendous! What's left to do?
Absolutely Stunning!!!! Love the color and the vinyl top gives it that 71 class look!! Great Job!!!
Wow! Looks amazing Alan. I should come by and see this in person!
Quote from: 70rag383 on August 09, 2021, 08:46:57 AM
Wow! Looks amazing Alan. I should come by and see this in person!
You're always welcome :welcome:
Quote from: Swamp Donkey on August 09, 2021, 07:12:46 AM
Looks tremendous! What's left to do?
Day 247, the assembly is pretty much finished with one MAJOR exception.....Unfortunately I can not finish the exhaust here. The
TTI tail pipes do not play well with the
RMS rear Street Lynx suspension, so I have to take it to an exhaust shop...that's a first for me..After that we can fire it up and work the bugs out... :dunno:
I'm happy with the subtle changes in the interior...
What size exhaust and rear end are you running? My TTI 2.5" pipes fit fine with the Street Lynx and 8.75", but they do have a footnote stating they don't fit with the 3" pipes, or if running a Dana 60.
Quote from: Dmod1974 on August 09, 2021, 03:27:52 PM
What size exhaust and rear end are you running? My TTI 2.5" pipes fit fine with the Street Lynx and 8.75", but they do have a footnote stating they don't fit with the 3" pipes, or if running a Dana 60.
Well that's odd, I was having a bitch of a time making them work...I have the same set-up as you :pullinghair: mine were hitting the top link bars, and when I turned them away from the bar, there was no way to get the tips lined up...
This is good news though...maybe the muffle shop can figure something out without having to make entirely new pipes... :fingerscrossed:
Day 251...Drove it out of the shop under it's own power.... :banana:
.....not very far...out the driveway, down the road 100 yards and back, on to my trailer...then it was off to the muffler shop, hopefully they'll have better luck with the exhaust..
We need video!!!!
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Quote from: Swamp Donkey on August 13, 2021, 02:50:12 PM
We need video!!!!
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That's a bit beyond my ability...You're talking about a guy who doesn't even own a cell phone
Haha. I'm trying to convince my 16 year old daughter to be my social media expert for the build on my car. Edit up videos etc for me. Anyway, the car looks stunning
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That's an AWESOME ride. So glad the vinyl top got there in time! Looks great!!
I always look forward to following your posts, watching your progress, and enjoying your enthusiastic commentary!
Great work.
Quote from: ZippyZoo on August 13, 2021, 03:52:41 PM
That's an AWESOME ride. So glad the vinyl top got there in time! Looks great!!
I always look forward to following your posts, watching your progress, and enjoying your enthusiastic commentary!
Great work.
Thanks :drinkingbud:
I know a lot of people are pretty bored with the "show boating" of my projects that I do on here, but I appreciate the input both good and bad, and like to show that it doesn't have to take years to get a car finished... :drunk:
This particular one was a huge learning experience for me, but likely the last FULL start to finish thread I do on a build, unless I get something exciting to show off. :thinking:
Thanks to everybody who follows along :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Alan, you are by far the best person to show how a restoration or restomod is supposed to be done. All straight forward and honest. I love seeing your work. Don't stop.
Any more info? Is the car done and picked up by the owner? Did you get to take it for a shakedown run? Handling? Braking? Acceleration? Shifting? I'm dying to know. Haha
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Very nice. The Cipher seats look good, just got a pair of those too.
My mechanic still has the car...I'll do a full report shortly....
P.S. Those seats a super comfy :twothumbsup:
Okay, so the car has been done for a while now, but with a few little problems that popped up, shipping it out was delayed quite a bit....
But today was the day....On it's way to it's new home in Winnipeg Manitoba :banana:
Quote from: anlauto on October 01, 2021, 04:28:17 PM
Okay, so the car has been done for a while now, but with a few little problems that popped up, shipping it out was delayed quite a bit....
But today was the day....On it's way to it's new home in Winnipeg Manitoba :banana:
I'll have to keep an eye out. It HAS to go through Thunder Bay to get to Winnipeg. :wowzers:
Looks great! :thinking:
Car looks fantastic. Still waiting on a driving report or video! Haha
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One of your nicest looking one yet! :bravo: Maybe the owner will join up on here and post of his adventures!
X2 with Brad. Looks good and hope they join in to our forum.
Quote from: Swamp Donkey on October 02, 2021, 08:33:38 AM
Car looks fantastic. Still waiting on a driving report or video! Haha
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I put about 180 Kms on it....It drives really nice....The TKO is not the smoothest shifting tranny, with 3:73 gears, you're shifting out of first pretty quick, and I found down shifting a chore. The steering and braking was fantastic in my opinion, didn't get into hard cornering or anything too radical...but you can take your hands off the wheel at 80 kms and it just tracks straight and smooth....the Vintage AC blows cold ...no real complaints at all...oh other then the fact there's no way it will hook up through first and second...by third it starts going :burnout:
Quote from: Brads70 on October 02, 2021, 08:47:07 AM
One of your nicest looking one yet! :bravo: Maybe the owner will join up on here and post of his adventures!
Thanks Brad....not sure if he would be interested in joining :thinking:
That's number #52 all wrapped up... http://www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com/PAST-RESTORATIONS.html
Updated my website today...takes for ever... :headbang: :console:
Home, and put away for the Winter....
Quote from: anlauto on October 03, 2021, 04:10:36 PM
That's number #52 all wrapped up... http://www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com/PAST-RESTORATIONS.html
Updated my website today...takes for ever... :headbang: :console:
Amazing history, just amazing. :unbelievable:
Thanks...it's been a fun ride.... :cooldance:
Congrats, great work and documentation!
:bradsthumb:
Well done, sir! Well done.
It was great to watch the progress.
Can't wait to follow the "keeper" resurrection.
:bigthumb:
Another beautiful restoration Alan! Kudos to you for stepping outside the chalk-mark brigade and doing such a nice job on a modified car. If I had the dinero, that's pretty much exactly how I'd want it to be. Sweet,sweet ride! :twothumbsup:
Beautiful! well done sir!
Your work is beyond reproach, I wish I had half the talent you do at whipping these cars in to the works of art you create. If I win the lottery you can be expecting a call for his and hers e-bodies :)
I love the larger rallye wheels in aluminum. They look especially good on a black car.
Quote from: anlauto on October 17, 2021, 01:17:07 PM
Home, and put away for the Winter....
Did the owner drive it any before storage and if so what was his impression. BTW, it's a work of art.
Quote from: anlauto on May 19, 2021, 09:06:38 AM
..and speaking of back seats...
Were adding Cipher custom front buckets, so I bought extra matching material directly from Cipher to have my upholstery guy, Scott Davis, sew up a nice complementing rear seat cover... He did a fantastic job matching the two different types of stitching etc....
Was it difficult to source the material to cover the seats? I'd like some reclining seats and these look great. I bet I could sell the '73 seats I have to make the transition fairly easily.
Quote from: ledphoot on October 18, 2021, 09:39:39 AM
Quote from: anlauto on May 19, 2021, 09:06:38 AM
..and speaking of back seats...
Were adding Cipher custom front buckets, so I bought extra matching material directly from Cipher to have my upholstery guy, Scott Davis, sew up a nice complementing rear seat cover... He did a fantastic job matching the two different types of stitching etc....
Was it difficult to source the material to cover the seats? I'd like some reclining seats and these look great. I bet I could sell the '73 seats I have to make the transition fairly easily.
NOT at all
@ledphoot (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/ledphoot_1741) they advertise extra material right on their website, for sale by the yard :banana: https://cipherauto.com/collections/seat-materials
The front seats I used in this car cost LESS then most seat covers from Legendary :alan2cents:
Thanks for the link!
Yeah I am aware of the cost of legendary covers.. I have a full set of seat covers and foams for my seats sitting in boxes. The seats I obtained are in pretty good driver quality so I figured I'd run them for a while.. Looking at these Cipher seats and the lovely recline capability got the wheels in my brain spinning. I can buy these seats, the mounting brackets and recover the rear seat and recoup all the money by selling off what I have pretty easily.
Quote from: anlauto on August 13, 2021, 04:12:29 PM
Quote from: ZippyZoo on August 13, 2021, 03:52:41 PM
That's an AWESOME ride. So glad the vinyl top got there in time! Looks great!!
I always look forward to following your posts, watching your progress, and enjoying your enthusiastic commentary!
Great work.
Thanks :drinkingbud:
I know a lot of people are pretty bored with the "show boating" of my projects that I do on here, but I appreciate the input both good and bad, and like to show that it doesn't have to take years to get a car finished... :drunk:
This particular one was a huge learning experience for me, but likely the last FULL start to finish thread I do on a build, unless I get something exciting to show off. :thinking:
Thanks to everybody who follows along :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Well if they're bored with the "show boating" they don't have to read your posts. Personally, I enjoy watching your restorations. Keep up the good work!
Thank you :drinkingbud:
Quote from: usraptor on October 21, 2021, 05:15:21 AM
Well if they're bored with the "show boating" they don't have to read your posts. Personally, I enjoy watching your restorations. Keep up the good work!
:iagree:
I also agree. I never missed a post! Haha
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Beautiful restoration! Well done sir! :clapping:
It was great to watch the progress. :twothumbsup:
Looks tough!
Can I ask what are the headlights you have used? Are they LED's / HID or something else?
Customer bought them from Dapper Lighting https://www.dapperlighting.com/ :twothumbsup:
My ONLY reason was to hide all the ugly hoses and firewall bulkhead. With everything hidden in the wheel well makes for a much better under hood appearance in my opinion :drooling:
I guess there were no other issues with the front window defroster vents hooking up etc. I looked on your website but could not really tell where it ended up.
Quote from: Swamp Donkey on February 10, 2022, 05:41:15 PM
I guess there were no other issues with the front window defroster vents hooking up etc. I looked on your website but could not really tell where it ended up.
All the venting inside the car is done by those ugly flexible hoses supplied with the kit and there was enough to go around for sure, I ended up cutting off extra hose. :alan2cents:
Nice work on the build. Looks like a really fun car to drive and enjoy!
Did you put the headlights on relays or just use the dapper lights on the factory wiring? I am going to use the dapper lights but wondering if relays are necessary with them as they have much less draw.
Which steering wheel is that? Do you have a favorite "tuff" aftermarket wheel you use?
Tuff wheel is from PG Classics, I don't know about being a favorite...but I think they're nice...
The headlights are plugged right into the factory wiring harness, the halos required some sort of box thingy (supplied) I don't know what it does :dunno:
That turned out amazing - great work! :clapping:
Give me inspiration to push on with my build!
Quote from: daaboots on March 08, 2022, 06:57:34 AM
That turned out amazing - great work! :clapping:
Give me inspiration to push on with my build!
Thanks, this car was a great learning experience for me, I thoroughly enjoyed building it, so much so, that I have two more on the go right now, and a third build available for purchase....
I know this resto-mod thing is just a fad like anything else, but it certainly seems popular right now... :)