I found my car on ebay June 2016, watched it for the complete auction but I didnt buy it at that time. It seemed like the perfect match for me because it was already painted FC7 with many new parts included. This car had went through 2 owners that had experienced the ultimate deal breaker "Divorce" :( I was on Craigslist one day and saw the same car, so I contacted this guy in Georgia, long story short we came to a deal, about 15k less . My wife and I have always wanted a 70 ebody and now we have one. Non matching numbers ,no build sheet but I have the correct fender tag. So I will be posting pictures of my progress.
First picture is the day I saw the car for the first time, Has a N96 hood but I am changing that, I found the original hood.
You're making great progress on it! :clapping: Engine bay is looking nice.
Nice work!!!
question
My painted back glass insert has a several of the screw pegs damaged where the interior panel screw too. Any ideas how to repair it. I dont have any pictures, I was thinking about installing the screws and coating them in wax and then putting JB Weld to form it back to spec. What ya think?
:bigthumb:
My Shaker Hood has the crush panels so I take it , it is not a original. This will be on the for sale list soon.
I'm not completely understanding what area you are referring to. If you can snap a quick photo I'm sure we can come up with an easy and simple solution. :takepicture:
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on January 07, 2017, 04:04:44 PM
question
My painted back glass insert has a several of the screw pegs damaged where the interior panel screw too. Any ideas how to repair it. I dont have any pictures, I was thinking about installing the screws and coating them in wax and then putting JB Weld to form it back to spec. What ya think?
They did make 71 Shakers so it's not completely out of the question. But the odds are small. :alan2cents:
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on January 07, 2017, 05:41:44 PM
My Shaker Hood has the crush panels so I take it , it is not a original. This will be on the for sale list soon.
I am not home at the moment, this is a SE car with the insert for the small back window. The insert has tabs on the inside to screw the interior trim panel . Some of these tabs are damaged and the car is already painted. Dont want to mess with replacing it. Any ideas?
Since it's already painter, looks like your only option is to use some type of 2 part epoxy (like JB weld). There's a lot of options out there and you might look in to Lords Adhesives too. They make a bunch of high quality adhesives for car panels. Good luck! :bigthumb:
Thanks Cody
I believe the SE window insert is fiberglass. I'd recommend repairing the tabs with fiberglass. :alan2cents:
Thanks I will check it out,
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on January 09, 2017, 02:53:27 PM
Thanks I will check it out,
Let me know if you need any photos. My interior is currently out of my car.
I appreciate that
Will be home in a couple of weeks so I will be working again on my car. I bought a new fuel line and it was the correct one this time, Bought a vent tube kit also, now my question is, on the vent tube that goes through the trunk floor, do I run rubber gas line tubing from the end of the vent tube to the tank? Or is there another metal tube I need to buy? If I had took the car apart I would have a idea, but since it was in pieces I rely on you guys help. :help:
Thanks
Is this the line you are talking about? :huh:
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on February 02, 2017, 12:12:54 PM
..now my question is, on the vent tube that goes through the trunk floor, do I run rubber gas line tubing from the end of the vent tube to the tank? Or is there another metal tube I need to buy? If I had took the car apart I would have a idea, but since it was in pieces I rely on you guys help. :help:
Thanks
Bought mine from Y1 but it dont look like that, a single tube connects to the filler neck, goes through the trunk floor and turns toward the tank, 383 car
More like this?
Yep that it, so is there a fuel line running to the tank vent?
No, I don't believe so. On my car, the end of the line (the end with the undercoating) was "stuffed" into a hole in the passenger side rail under the trunk floor. Wasn't even secured. Looks like they just wanted to vent the tank to an inconspicuous place.
Yes, one side goes down in the frame rail to vent and the other side it connected to the fuel filler tube with a small rubber hose. If your filler tube does not have a small nipple then it's for the N95 tank, if I recall correctly. :thinking:
Quote from: headejm on February 02, 2017, 04:12:19 PM
No, I don't believe so. On my car, the end of the line (the end with the undercoating) was "stuffed" into a hole in the passenger side rail under the trunk floor. Wasn't even secured. Looks like they just wanted to vent the tank to an inconspicuous place.
Great, thanks guys for your help. Love this forum. :toast:
Quote from: headejm on February 02, 2017, 04:12:19 PM
No, I don't believe so. On my car, the end of the line (the end with the undercoating) was "stuffed" into a hole in the passenger side rail under the trunk floor. Wasn't even secured. Looks like they just wanted to vent the tank to an inconspicuous place.
Not sure if the 'Cuda's are the same, but on my '70 'Cuda, as Cody explained, the one end is stuffed inside the frame rail. Not sure where the other end connects. It's been a while since I looked at it. I believe after '70 they changed vent systems and added several different nipples on the passenger side of the gas tank.
Rebuilding my k-member,is the upper control arm painted?
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on February 14, 2017, 06:32:11 PM
Rebuilding my k-member,is the upper control arm painted?
Kind of a debatable subject. MOST were natural steel, but some have claimed to be semi-gloss black.. Could have to do with different vendors or assembly plants. Look closely at your original for any signs of paint if it's not too late.
NOS ones are typically painted.
Mine is painted gloss black but it is not original
:congrats: Way to go man!!! :bravo:
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on February 21, 2017, 08:34:16 AM
I start on the 13th of March. I will be home every week end to work on my car.
Employment is a good thing :worship:
Here is a couple
Super nice!!! :clapping:
Are the calipers supposed to go off the back like that ?
Man, nothing gets by Alan. :worship: I completely glanced over it, but he's right. The factory calipers should go on the other side.
Quote from: anlauto on February 21, 2017, 11:39:44 AM
Are the calipers supposed to go off the back like that ?
I am sure they were mounted for a last minute photo shoot. :bricks:
Pretty sure they should go on towards the front of the car? :huh: Do you have any other photos? Maybe we'll see something that we can help with?
Not home right now, return back in 2 weeks, I will get some pics then, thanks, I need all the help I can get.
Quote from: anlauto on February 21, 2017, 02:15:36 PM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on February 21, 2017, 12:44:31 PM
Quote from: anlauto on February 21, 2017, 11:39:44 AM
Are the calipers supposed to go off the back like that ?
Last reply didnt go through,,
Funny you should mention that @anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19) , I thought the same thing, but if you change sides the steering linkage will be on the front.
You're joking right ?
You have the lower ball joints on the wrong side, switch the ball joints and all your problems will be solved.
You are saying to swap the rotor assy to the other side?
Lower ball joint came installed with the rotor assembly
Then maybe the aftermarket set-up you bought is not supposed to be the same as stock original .
Alan and I have a lot more experience with stock set ups, so maybe Alan is right that it could just be the way the aftermarket system is set up. Could be designed to be that way. :notsure: Post more photos when you get home. :bigthumb:
Thanks guys, that is one reason I post, INPUT, love it. These came with the car new in the box. I tried on the other side but didnt look right. Yes I will post more pictures when I get home. BTW, I bought Moog upper ball joints and the wrench to remove them. But when I installed the ball joint it would not tighten up, too loose. Maybe they gave me the wrong part. But I did notice that the previous owner had installed new ones, So now I have a ball joint wrench to go in my tool box :rofl:
I've seen people ruin the upper control arms by pressing the ball joint out when it's a threaded situation. :notsure: Maybe someone pressed an old one out and that's why the new ones didn't fit? But sounds like you got a set to screw in so maybe that's not it and they just sent you the wrong size?
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on February 22, 2017, 07:11:21 AM
But when I installed the ball joint it would not tighten up, too loose. Maybe they gave me the wrong part.
It should work with those calipers mounted on the back like that, but you'll just have a heck of a time routing the flex hose. :alan2cents:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on February 22, 2017, 08:32:00 AM
I've seen people ruin the upper control arms by pressing the ball joint out when it's a threaded situation. :notsure: Maybe someone pressed an old one out and that's why the new ones didn't fit? But sounds like you got a set to screw in so maybe that's not it and they just sent you the wrong size?
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on February 22, 2017, 07:11:21 AM
But when I installed the ball joint it would not tighten up, too loose. Maybe they gave me the wrong part.
I think they sent the incorrect ball joints, I screwed the others in and it was fine. And BTW, I learned of the screw ball joints here. :worship:
Quote from: anlauto on February 22, 2017, 09:16:25 AM
It should work with those calipers mounted on the back like that, but you'll just have a heck of a time routing the flex hose. :alan2cents:
I will check when i get home, now that I will have more time :woohoo: And I will post better pictures
Heater/ AC box installed, I am missing the front cover that connects the dash vents, anyone have a drawing or picture of one.
Is it #6? :notsure: Just sent that to Alan. I can look to see if I have another, but not sure if that is what you need? :huh:
Yep thats it. I have #2 Sure hope someone has one, thanks
@Cuda Cody (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda-cody_1)
I didn't see another one in my pile of parts, but I think I a long AC vent piece. :notsure: I think it's the AC tube piece that goes up the defrost.
I think I have everything ie defrost, vents tube just missing the one you had, Anyone have one? :soshelp:
Who makes the correct heater cut-off valve. Got one from Y1 and its no where close, and all they had.
I don't know that they have them but try 521Restorations and/or Hoover auto parts. They both have a lot of reproduction parts.
This showed up in the mail today, sure looks nice and the contour to the inner fender is good. :woohoo:
I need to get one, One good thing today, got my radiator back and it checked out great, whew didnt want to buy one of those. BUT the guy did a crappy paint job(used a brush) on it but I can fix that.
@71GranCoupe (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/71grancoupe_24) where did you get the bracket?
Got them from Bill Rolik, $40 + 10 for the ride. Fits like a glove.
http://billrolikenterprises.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3441883-P
Been a good day, waiting on parts on the K member so I worked on the drivers door, replacing slides for the window, and plastic clips. All the interior parts of the window mechanism was so nasty so they got a bath in my vibratory cleaner.Tomorrow finish up drivers door. I got a call this evening that my pit man arm came in and when I get the motor mounts from
@TONY (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/tony_147) I will put the motor on the k-member. So glad Tony is a member here, he has been a great help.
I broke down and bought a tool chest, the old one was the size of a tackle box :rofl:
That's AWESOME!!!!
I'll see if I can tilt it upright so your tools don't fall out. :bigthumb:
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on March 10, 2017, 05:41:19 PM
I broke down and bought a tool chest, the old one was the size of a tackle box :rofl:
Working on the drivers door and crank assy. Got it all cleaned up and new bushings and rollers ordered. The actual crank assy was alittle tight , I guess this is normal for a 70 model. So I drilled a 1/64 hole in the top side when installed and took a grease attachment thats made to grease a 4x4 ,it is smooth now. Then put a dot of silicone to keep out the dust. K-member is done. All new bushings , tie-rod ends and pitman.
Long time coming, I got the Motor on the k-member, I bet it has been a long time since a motor was sitting there. My son came by today to help
Another picture
Any progress is good, keep it up. :cheers:
Great progress!!! :banana:
That is exciting!! :cooldance: We'll be doing that in a couple weeks (I hope).
Nice, they start to feel like a car when the engine goes in.
Alway appreciate a good tip.
EB3 looks like you still need the support bracket replaced :bradsthumb:
Beautiful job!!! :clapping:
Quote from: EB3-GranCoupe on March 26, 2017, 02:28:09 PM
Its looking good! Always like to see Overhead Console cars coming back together!
Sorry to chime in so late, but headejm, and 71Gran Coupe steered you in the right direction with the heater valve. Make sure you get a new cable as well; I didn't, and now I have replace it with everything in place. What a pain! :bricks:
Here are my before (unrestored) and after:
Well today was a bust, putting parts on my motor. Its burns me up when you buy these repop parts and you spend so much time making them work. I was working on the finishing touch. Then I tried to install the oil dip stick, tube was too big too go in. Finally got it. Then I torque the exhaust manifold, and the nut stripped out that came in the kit. At least it was not the stud. I was hoping to get a lot done and it did not happen. At least I have my alternator ready . I will post what I done on that . I bought a new one and put all the parts on my old housing.
QuoteWell today was a bust, putting parts on my motor. Its burns me up when you buy these repop parts and you spend so much time making them work. I was working on the finishing touch. Then I tried to install the oil dip stick, tube was too big too go in. Finally got it. Then I torque the exhaust manifold, and the nut stripped out that came in the kit. At least it was not the stud. I was hoping to get a lot done and it did not happen. At least I have my alternator ready . I will post what I done on that . I bought a new one and put all the parts on my old housing
There are days like that. They will be a fond memory when you get her all done!
Alan, yep, took care of that when the AC was plumbed and charged.
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on March 26, 2017, 07:45:08 PM
Well today was a bust, putting parts on my motor. Its burns me up when you buy these repop parts and you spend so much time making them work. I was working on the finishing touch. Then I tried to install the oil dip stick, tube was too big too go in. Finally got it. Then I torque the exhaust manifold, and the nut stripped out that came in the kit. At least it was not the stud. I was hoping to get a lot done and it did not happen. At least I have my alternator ready . I will post what I done on that . I bought a new one and put all the parts on my old housing.
I'm on my third dip stick so don't feel bad. You definitely have to grind down the end that goes into the block to get them to fit, especially if it's chrome. :pullinghair:
I got it fixed after a lot of sweat and saying a few bad words :rofl: Makes me want to drink a glass of wine.
Tim, slow down, you're leaving me in the dust! :))
Yeah right, two steps forward 5 back. BUT I am enjoying this. This is my first time, next time "Resto mod :cheers:
I need some help!!! I just got my torque converter from Frank Lupo, it was made for my car. My flex plate measures 11" across the TC measures 10" what the heck do I have?
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on April 14, 2017, 01:24:01 PM
I need some help!!! I just got my torque converter from Frank Lupo, it was made for my car. My flex plate measures 11" across the TC measures 10" what the heck do I have?
5/16 bolts? or 7/16 bolts?
I will go check
TC bolts are 5/16"
Than any stock 10" flex plate will work, common on 318's & 360's plus all the aftermarket suppliers...
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5899194&cc=1088186&jsn=577
Less than $10 from Rock Auto...
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 14, 2017, 06:41:50 PM
Than any stock 10" flex plate will work, common on 318's & 360's plus all the aftermarket suppliers...
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5899194&cc=1088186&jsn=577
Less than $10 from Rock Auto...
Thanks ,I appreciate your help
Day 225 LOL, engine bay almost done,, I am thinking that the dash should be next, the way it looks the bulk head wiring would be a pain to connect to the fire wall after the engine is installed. Am I correct or what would you guys do next.
Tim
We are at about the same exact place in our resto of the Duster. Dash and wiring next.
You can install the wiring after the engine no problem.
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on April 16, 2017, 04:51:45 AM
Day 225 LOL, engine bay almost done,, I am thinking that the dash should be next, the way it looks the bulk head wiring would be a pain to connect to the fire wall after the engine is installed. Am I correct or what would you guys do next.
Tim
I stopped counting the days/hours a long time ago. Too depressing. :)) Re the bulk head wiring. It's not that hard to connect after the engine is in. I've disconnected/re-connected mine several times with the engine in. I will admit, using some channel lock pliers to release the tabs and pull it away from the bulkhead/firewall make it a lot easier to remove.
Powder coated brackets today,
Sorry buddy, I know nothing about AC cars. :sorry: Never owned one. But maybe someday I will! :fingerscrossed:
That's nowhere near close to being the correct water control valve, so the location is pretty irrelevant at this point. :alan2cents:
Quote from: anlauto on April 16, 2017, 07:19:07 PM
That's nowhere near close to being the correct water control valve, so the location is pretty irrelevant at this point. :alan2cents:
No, it isn't correct for a 70.... But it is for a 71... Since they had so many failures with the original valve Mopar changed it mid year in 71...
If you need correct go ahead & spend 3-4 times as much & expect it to leak within a few years... Or take the hit on correctness & use a valve that works.....
You can find them all over EBay....this one is missing the bracket though... :alan2cents:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MoPar-1970-1971-1972-1973-1974-Cuda-Challenger-Water-Valve-A-C-Charger-RR-/400770718387?hash=item5d4fcbdab3:g:2VUAAOxyjP1R24ii&vxp=mtr
Quote from: anlauto on April 17, 2017, 05:53:16 AM
You can find them all over EBay....this one is missing the bracket though... :alan2cents:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MoPar-1970-1971-1972-1973-1974-Cuda-Challenger-Water-Valve-A-C-Charger-RR-/400770718387?hash=item5d4fcbdab3:g:2VUAAOxyjP1R24ii&vxp=mtr
Thanks
@anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19) , I have a bracket, tough trying to put this car together when its my first rodeo :rofl: But with help I will get it.
It's been my experience that Y1 does not generally carry parts that are anywhere near being correct.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on April 17, 2017, 07:37:19 AM
It's been my experience that Y1 does not generally carry parts that are anywhere near being correct.
I agree, on several occasions I have purchased parts ie. bushings for wiper arms, no where close but it was listed for e-body same for the hot-water control. They said it is all they offer. And me being ignorant( to be polite) it makes it more difficult. I know I get stumped and ask alot of questions but this forum is great and I truly appreciate everyone's help. It wrench turning 101 but the true art is to know where and how parts go that is where I need help. But I really love this car and I will get her going. :wrenching:
If your gonna buy the correct valve look here..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1975-76-Charger-Coronet-78-Charger-Magnum-A-C-Heater-Water-Control-Valve-AC-/400288169747?fits=Model%3ACharger&hash=item5d3308bf13:m:m2A1SADo-kXAca5wCmsE1KQ&vxp=mtr
I've considered buying them all up & charging the typical price for them.... But then I'd be a part of what I hate about this hobby....
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 17, 2017, 08:48:19 AM
If your gonna buy the correct valve look here..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1975-76-Charger-Coronet-78-Charger-Magnum-A-C-Heater-Water-Control-Valve-AC-/400288169747?fits=Model%3ACharger&hash=item5d3308bf13:m:m2A1SADo-kXAca5wCmsE1KQ&vxp=mtr
I've considered buying them all up & charging the typical price for them.... But then I'd be a part of what I hate about this hobby....
Thanks for your help
Working on my car today, and I had a stud for the exhaust manifold that I had to replace, I was nervous as a cat on a hot tin roof. But it worked out. I was wonder what you guys/gals would do, replace all or whats bad. I have a complete set of studs that came with the car. I know the old saying "It aint broke dont fix it" :pixiepop:
But, if it didn't leak before maybe not worth risking it. :notsure: Like you said, no reason to fix what isn't broke.
Not much to tell on my build, hunting for parts that I did not know I was missing. While I am waiting for some parts to come in, I started to dissemble my dash. I was wondering why I kept on smelling Rat P, I found out, the the whole right side was full of nest. I hate RATS. After reading other posts I ordered the paint for the gauge needles. You can really learn a lot here.
Tim
I learned the hard way. I would clean up the clocks, lube, sand the "shorting" points where they make contact and double check they work.... but they always stopped working after I installed them. Maybe a few weeks, maybe a few years, but they always seemed to stop. Now I just change the guts out right from the start and never worry. They always work then.
I use these guts for the clocks. Pretty easy to install too.
[ebay]371537829782[/ebay]
I was at Yearone Saturday and I ask for the low voltage switch for the dash. They had one but it was completely different. What is people using, i.e. stock ( If available)or a updated one?
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on May 22, 2017, 09:20:11 AM
I was at Yearone Saturday and I ask for the low voltage switch for the dash.
???? Are you looking for a instrument voltage regulator?
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on May 22, 2017, 12:39:20 PM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on May 22, 2017, 09:20:11 AM
I was at Yearone Saturday and I ask for the low voltage switch for the dash.
???? Are you looking for a instrument voltage regulator?
Yes that be the one
Slow but sure, jumping around on different things waiting on parts. Front turn signals left is after right is before. Bought new lense also.
Any progress is good progress. :bigthumb:
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on May 22, 2017, 02:10:10 PM
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on May 22, 2017, 12:39:20 PM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on May 22, 2017, 09:20:11 AM
I was at Yearone Saturday and I ask for the low voltage switch for the dash.
???? Are you looking for a instrument voltage regulator?
Yes that be the one
Normal replacement part... http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1970,challenger,7.0l+426cid+v8,1078466,electrical,instrument+cluster+voltage+regulator,4885
Electronic version.... http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/RTE_limiter
Build your own electronic version.... http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-instrument-voltage-regulator64.html
Great read on your build. Your front calipers will work fine mounted to the rear but the stock rubber brake hose will bind. My '71 has rear mounted calipers and I put longer rubber hoses on and they work fine. I can try to get the hose part numbers if you need, just post.
Ricky
Quote from: Got JOB on May 27, 2017, 12:12:15 PM
Great read on your build. Your front calipers will work fine mounted to the rear but the stock rubber brake hose will bind. My '71 has rear mounted calipers and I put longer rubber hoses on and they work fine. I can try to get the hose part numbers if you need, just post.
Ricky
This is a aftermarket kit that came with the car and hoses. Wont be long before I get to put them on. Thanks for your help
Coming along. And I got AC vents out of the parts lot I bought
Looking good! :ohyeah:
Well I have been busy on the dash, almost done. I will say this to anyone getting ready to do a wire harness. When you remove the old one, just disconnect the wire ends from what ever it goes to. When I bought my dash wire harness, I thought good this will be simple, Well,HELLO, that is just the start. There are so many different wire harnesses you have to buy to make it complete. Silly me. I know most of you guys already know this but as I mentioned to
@anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19) this is my first rodeo. :rofl:
As suggested by @cudacody I found a local guy to rebuild my 3 speakers, not a bad price either. I had a key made for my glove box, guy came to my work and brought it back 85 bucks and he left the lock out so I could have it painted. Does the glove box key fit the console?
And the saga continues!!!!
Every little bit helps. You're getting closer all the time. :banana:
Looking great as you work through the process :banana:
Where is the "subscribe" button.... looking, looking, looking.
I have picked up so many things on this thread it's ridiculous. Great job guys!
Quote from: wldgtx on June 30, 2017, 05:13:03 AM
Where is the "subscribe" button.... looking, looking, looking.
I have picked up so many things on this thread it's ridiculous. Great job guys!
You and me both, these guys and gals are a big help.
Is there a separate harness for the low fuel relay?
Second picture ! What is it. Not sure if it is for my car but came with it.
Yes, I think there is a hardness for SE cars for that relay. (date stamp on your part is 2549 = 254th day of 1969)
The second photo is a Factory Radio Cross Over (2759 = 275th day of 1969)
Is this the separate harness that plugs into that low fuel relay ?
Or is this just the overhead consolette??
I have the dash with harness for same S/E car too.
Quote from: autoxcuda on July 02, 2017, 03:41:38 PM
Is this the separate harness that plugs into that low fuel relay ?
Or is this just the overhead consolette??
I have the dash with harness for same S/E car too.
The low fuel relay harness is part of the O/H console harness.... The blue power wire from the IVR gets unplugged from the fuel gauge & instead the blue wire from the low fuel relay gets plugged into the terminal...
Wiring the dash almost complete. Can anyone tell where this tan wire goes ?
Is it a 1970 Wiring harness? I thought double tan was an accessory lead, but it has a different plugs on the end?
https://forum.e-bodies.org/electrical-and-audio/11/colored-wiring-diagrams-70-cudachallenger/1349/
Yes it is a 70, my original has the same
Is the tan wire in the main harness or the AC harness ?
Tan is the AC harness, I think I got it, best I an tell is it connects to a B/W wire that goes to the fan blower. Does that sound correct
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on July 08, 2017, 06:45:48 PM
Tan is the AC harness, I think I got it, best I an tell is it connects to a B/W wire that goes to the fan blower. Does that sound correct
Yup
Another wiring harness question, on the main harness there is a blue wire going to the fuel gauge. The low fuel gauge wiring harness also has a blue wire. Do I disconnect the blue main wiring harness wire and connect the blue low fuel wire? Everything else I am good on.
I have been working on the plastic trim that the map light mounts, in the past someone had drilled holes in it. Who knows what for. So checking around I saw where you could put the same plastic (scrap) in acetone and it makes a glue.I punched. Plugs out of some scrap I had and I think it turned out pretty good. If the glue is too thin just wait and it will thicken up as the acetone evaporates
That came out nice. :banana: I used Plastex Repair kit on my broken grille and it worked really well.
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on July 04, 2017, 04:57:12 PM
Wiring the dash almost complete. Can anyone tell where this tan wire goes ?
it goes right here.
:twothumbsup:
Quote from: manycj on July 24, 2017, 09:19:49 AM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on July 04, 2017, 04:57:12 PM
Wiring the dash almost complete. Can anyone tell where this tan wire goes ?
it goes right here.
The plastic repair turned out good.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on July 24, 2017, 09:39:20 AM
The plastic repair turned out good.
Its not perfect but a lot better than the holes .Just got to install the radio and then the dash is going in.
Add a little texture and those holes would pretty much disappear.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on July 24, 2017, 09:52:07 AM
Add a little texture and those holes would pretty much disappear.
Good idea!
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on July 14, 2017, 08:12:27 AM
Another wiring harness question, on the main harness there is a blue wire going to the fuel gauge. The low fuel gauge wiring harness also has a blue wire. Do I disconnect the blue main wiring harness wire and connect the blue low fuel wire? Everything else I am good on.
If you have this taken care of, great! If not, actually the answer is both. The dash harness blue wire from the sending unit connects to the signal side of the fuel gauge. What changes is the local 5 volt limiter that typically drives the oil, temp and fuel gauges, does not connect to the power side of the fuel gauge and is not used. You can tape that hole opening off. The low fuel relay also creates the necessary pulsing 5 volts to drive the gauge. Inside of the low fuel relay, when the fuel level drops to underneath 1/4 tank, the resistance increases to nearing around -60 Ohms on a different internal arm that cools down, closes the circuit and lights the low fuel overhead console bulb.
As a side note, due to the fact that the low fuel relay runs as a thermal device, it is not uncommon for them to fail over time. I do service those. ;)
Jim
Quote from: Slotts on July 24, 2017, 10:58:01 AM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on July 14, 2017, 08:12:27 AM
Another wiring harness question, on the main harness there is a blue wire going to the fuel gauge. The low fuel gauge wiring harness also has a blue wire. Do I disconnect the blue main wiring harness wire and connect the blue low fuel wire? Everything else I am good on.
If you have this taken care of, great! If not, actually the answer is both. The dash harness blue wire from the sending unit connects to the signal side of the fuel gauge. What changes is the local 5 volt limiter that typically drives the oil, temp and fuel gauges, does not connect to the power side of the fuel gauge and is not used. You can tape that hole opening off. The low fuel relay also creates the necessary pulsing 5 volts to drive the gauge. Inside of the low fuel relay, when the fuel level drops to underneath 1/4 tank, the resistance increases to nearing around -60 Ohms on a different internal arm that cools down, closes the circuit and lights the low fuel overhead console bulb.
As a side note, due to the fact that the low fuel relay runs as a thermal device, it is not uncommon for them to fail over time. I do service those. ;)
Jim
So the blue from the low fuel relay plugs onto the gauge instead of the black 5 v wire?. In other words two blue plug on the gauge? correct? And that is good information to know that you service the low fuel switch.
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on July 24, 2017, 06:29:41 AM
I have been working on the plastic trim that the map light mounts, in the past someone had drilled holes in it. Who knows what for. So checking around I saw where you could put the same plastic (scrap) in acetone and it makes a glue.I punched. Plugs out of some scrap I had and I think it turned out pretty good. If the glue is too thin just wait and it will thicken up as the acetone evaporates
Acetone works well on a lot of things...........good choice............. :perfect10:
Quote
So the blue from the low fuel relay plugs onto the gauge instead of the black 5 v wire?. In other words two blue plug on the gauge? correct? And that is good information to know that you service the low fuel switch.
Yes, here is a picture from the FSM.
Jim
Quote from: Slotts on July 26, 2017, 07:29:56 AM
Quote
So the blue from the low fuel relay plugs onto the gauge instead of the black 5 v wire?. In other words two blue plug on the gauge? correct? And that is good information to know that you service the low fuel switch.
Yes, here is a picture from the FSM.
Jim
Which book do you have, mine dont have that page
Just bought this NOS , it sure looks better than the old one
Good looking shifter. Mine has the ball and button.
BOOM
Looks good!!!! Before you get much further you might want to paint the blackout around the window openings. :bigthumb:
That's looking nice! It's hard not to work 24 hours a day on them at this point. Sure beats grinding and sanding!
Lookin good. :ohyeah: :rebelflag"
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 13, 2017, 03:57:15 PM
Looks good!!!! Before you get much further you might want to paint the blackout around the window openings. :bigthumb:
All around the window openings?
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 13, 2017, 04:06:03 PM
That's looking nice! It's hard not to work 24 hours a day on them at this point. Sure beats grinding and sanding!
You got that right, Dash took awhile making sure it was correct and I got the radio in that I got from
@anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19) . BUT I need the lower trim that goes below the 8 Track.
Yes, the area around the windows gets blacked out so you do not see body color behind the glass.
https://www.e-bodies.org/Resources/Engineering_Illustrations/Black_Out_Sill_Pillar.pdf
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on August 14, 2017, 09:02:27 AM
All around the window openings?
the one I have listed is for '70 Barracuda/Cuda only (to be correct). it would probably be fine/fit any Barracuda '70-74, but don't think it would fit any Challenger e-body.
Going through some of the parts that came with my car and I found the trim that goes down the door. Did they come with that or it is a add on. It the trim with rubber to protect the door. Also Buffing my bright work, looking really good.
@Cuda Cody (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda-cody_1) I painted the trim inside the windshield (A pillow),thanks for the tip.
Are you talking about the door edge or along the body line of the door?
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on August 28, 2017, 01:44:58 PM
... I found the trim that goes down the door. Did they come with that or it is a add on. It the trim with rubber to protect the door.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 28, 2017, 01:48:06 PM
Are you talking about the door edge or along the body line of the door?
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on August 28, 2017, 01:44:58 PM
... I found the trim that goes down the door. Did they come with that or it is a add on. It the trim with rubber to protect the door.
Along the body line of the door, it had the door edge guards but I dont think I will use them
There were holes all along the body line that those mounted in to? Right? Hang on to them. They are rare and I do not think anyone is reproducing them.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 29, 2017, 09:25:03 AM
There were holes all along the body line that those mounted in to? Right? Hang on to them. They are rare and I do not think anyone is reproducing them.
The person that done the body and paint filled in the holes, at least the door is smooth now.
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on August 29, 2017, 09:30:36 AM
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 29, 2017, 09:25:03 AM
There were holes all along the body line that those mounted in to? Right? Hang on to them. They are rare and I do not think anyone is reproducing them.
The person that done the body and paint filled in the holes, at least the door is smooth now.
While the molding helped prevent door dings, I always thought the door looked much cleaner without them. My :alan2cents:
Quote from: usraptor on August 29, 2017, 05:13:44 PM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on August 29, 2017, 09:30:36 AM
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 29, 2017, 09:25:03 AM
There were holes all along the body line that those mounted in to? Right? Hang on to them. They are rare and I do not think anyone is reproducing them.
The person that done the body and paint filled in the holes, at least the door is smooth now.
While the molding helped prevent door dings, I always thought the door looked much cleaner without them. My :alan2cents:
I agree 100%
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on February 02, 2017, 01:49:05 PM
Bought mine from Y1 but it dont look like that, a single tube connects to the filler neck, goes through the trunk floor and turns toward the tank, 383 car
I know this is way back but read thru the thread last night and thought I would post how my vent tube was.....in the end it vents into the frame rail...........and these are OLD pics before I did a lot of work..........
Quote from: DAYLEY/CHALLENGER on August 30, 2017, 04:10:19 PM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on February 02, 2017, 01:49:05 PM
Bought mine from Y1 but it dont look like that, a single tube connects to the filler neck, goes through the trunk floor and turns toward the tank, 383 car
I know this is way back but read thru the thread last night and thought I would post how my vent tube was.....in the end it vents into the frame rail...........and these are OLD pics before I did a lot of work..........
Thanks for the pictures, I have not been on the site much, too much work
I put my motor in today, The fastest way to do it is from the bottom. Only took about a hour. Yes I could have put more parts on the motor before I installed it but I wanted to see it in place. I have a dolley I made to hold the motor and tranny. If anyone can use it come and get it (free) all I ask is when you are done give it so someone else that can use it. I used a old bumper to raise the body.
She is starting to look like something again...............I am sure it feels good to be making progress............ :ohyeah: :ohyeah:
It's always great to install the engine.
You'll never want to do it from the top again :alan2cents:
Of course Alan is talking about putting in an engine!! :wave:
Quote from: DAYLEY/CHALLENGER on September 10, 2017, 10:01:18 AM
Of course Alan is talking about putting in an engine!! :wave:
[/quote
I hope so. :bradsthumb:lol
So, I get to the point to install the drive shaft, I thought what the heck, I have replaced everything else on the car what not the universal joints. SO I go to a auto-part store and bought them, but when I installed the first one the c-clip would not go on, one did of course but the other would not go into place. SO I went to another auto-parts store got another brand and it fit perfect. So while I was under there I decided to go ahead with the exhaust, Driver side PERFECT, pass side not so lucky. As you all know I bought this car with a bucket load of new parts,WELL the manifold did not match the header pipe. When I lined up the pipe it could have been a T/A coming out the side LOL. So I guess I will contact Accurate Exhaust for the correct one. Be glad to get this baby done.
Ugh: If it is a Big Block you may have a 68-69 manifold.
Getting alot done, exhaust done including the tips, did not pay a outrageous price, I bought a set of tips off ebay for less than i could have bought one anywhere else. They looked nice stainless steel and they matched up perfectly.
So today I started on my grill. How does everyone clean theirs? Well let me tell you how I am doing mine. Those little egg crate are something else. So I put a round brush in my drill and dipped it in a liquid buffing compound. I have one side done, more tomorrow.
Man, nice work on the grill. :banana: I never thought of doing that. :rebelflag"
You did a real good job on your grill, and it's going to be a winner when you get the other half done.cleaning it up and painting the grill makes a big difference and I think sets the tone for the rest of the car. I mean, it's right out there in front. Few years ago I thought the same thing, except I didn't remove mine like you did. But I meticulously cleaned the egg crate, and painted the egg crate with a light coat of stainless steel paint and then a coat of clear, polished out the aluminum egg crate surround then painted the rest of the grill in light (which is incorrect) Astro tone paint. I will be repainting it in the proper dark Astro tone paint. Good luck on it, just take your time and it'll look great. By the way that egg crate is a PITA to clean to prep for paint. Here's the way mine turned out.
Thanks, Al
Quote from: 70/6chall on October 06, 2017, 05:53:09 PM
You did a real good job on your grill, and it's going to be a winner when you get the other half done.cleaning it up and painting the grill makes a big difference and I think sets the tone for the rest of the car. I mean, it's right out there in front. Few years ago I thought the same thing, except I didn't remove mine like you did. But I meticulously cleaned the egg crate, and painted the egg crate with a light coat of stainless steel paint and then a coat of clear, polished out the aluminum egg crate surround then painted the rest of the grill in light (which is incorrect) Astro tone paint. I will be repainting it in the proper dark Astro tone paint. Good luck on it, just take your time and it'll look great. By the way that egg crate is a PITA to clean to prep for paint. Here's the way mine turned out.
Thanks, Al
I could not agree more, the front is what is seen rear view mirrow and the back end as well when the car is passed. What I did is too get in the corners I ran the drill in the clockwise direction and then reversed it. Tht gets the corners clean. What color is the rest of the grill painted?
Egg crate done, now to polish and clean the rest of the grill
Alright Timbuc2! What you have done on your grill looks great, it cleaned up real well. Man I didn't envy you cleaning up that egg crate at all. Like I said I hit the egg crate part of my grill with a stainless steel toned paint. Since this grill is the OEM original grill, the egg crate resembled that stainless steel color. After polishing out the egg crate surround to a chrome like appearance and since my Dodge is a non R/T car, I bought 2 cans each of the light and dark Astro tone paint from Dave's Totally Auto. The grill ended up looking sweet, but I shot it with the light paint, wrong!! I said "what the heck did I do that for?" I will be prepping it again and shooting it with the dark proper paint.
Thanks, Al
Quote from: 70/6chall on October 07, 2017, 07:24:28 PM
Alright Timbuc2! What you have done on your grill looks great, it cleaned up real well. Man I didn't envy you cleaning up that egg crate at all. Like I said I hit the egg crate part of my grill with a stainless steel toned paint. Since this grill is the OEM original grill, the egg crate resembled that stainless steel color. After polishing out the egg crate surround to a chrome like appearance and since my Dodge is a non R/T car, I bought 2 cans each of the light and dark Astro tone paint from Dave's Totally Auto. The grill ended up looking sweet, but I shot it with the light paint, wrong!! I said "what the heck did I do that for?" I will be prepping it again and shooting it with the dark proper paint.
Thanks, Al
Lol, it was tough, really time consuming but it was like eating Lay's potato chip could not eat just one. Got started and looked so good I had to finish. Now I need to find the correct paint to paint the rest. It is a dark color.
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on October 06, 2017, 04:24:53 PM
Getting alot done, exhaust done including the tips, did not pay a outrageous price, I bought a set of tips off ebay for less than i could have bought one anywhere else. They looked nice stainless steel and they matched up perfectly.
So today I started on my grill. How does everyone clean theirs? Well let me tell you how I am doing mine. Those little egg crate are something else. So I put a round brush in my drill and dipped it in a liquid buffing compound. I have one side done, more tomorrow.
Great idea, turned out great! You have more patience than me..... here is what I did.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/body-shop/5/-cleaning-up-a-argent-1970-challenger-grill/69/msg1793#msg1793
Quote from: Brads70 on October 08, 2017, 05:13:35 AM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on October 06, 2017, 04:24:53 PM
Getting alot done, exhaust done including the tips, did not pay a outrageous price, I bought a set of tips off ebay for less than i could have bought one anywhere else. They looked nice stainless steel and they matched up perfectly.
So today I started on my grill. How does everyone clean theirs? Well let me tell you how I am doing mine. Those little egg crate are something else. So I put a round brush in my drill and dipped it in a liquid buffing compound. I have one side done, more tomorrow.
Great idea, turned out great! You have more patience than me..... here is what I did.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/body-shop/5/-cleaning-up-a-argent-1970-challenger-grill/69/msg1793#msg1793
Your grill looks great, good idea using acetone . I am going to remove the rivets also.
Still raining here, I am about 1 hour from Montgomery. Good day to work on the Challenger.
I was reading that SE came with Silver Argent on the grill. But mine looks very dark with a hint of black. BUT it may not be original to my car.
@Cuda Cody (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda-cody_1) where can I get the correct color?
Timmbuc2........ That argent silver your referring to, is the dark argent or dark astrotone you can buy from Daves Totally Auto. That's the paint that has the sparkely look to it. It's also used on the '70 Challenger SE rear finish panel. Dave will sell it to you in a reasonably priced spray can.
Thanks, Al
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30646.0;attach=196055;image
I didn't do my tail to,spec. And the SE panel is black since I have the BB stripe.
I,would have posted the actual,pic, but am on the iPad. Now.
Quote from: 70/6chall on October 08, 2017, 06:15:08 PM
Timmbuc2........ That argent silver your referring to, is the dark argent or dark astrotone you can buy from Daves Totally Auto. That's the paint that has the sparkely look to it. It's also used on the '70 Challenger SE rear finish panel. Dave will sell it to you in a reasonably priced spray can.
Thanks, Al
Thanks I ordered today from Dave
Quote from: DAYLEY/CHALLENGER on October 08, 2017, 06:23:17 PM
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30646.0;attach=196055;image
I didn't do my tail to,spec. And the SE panel is black since I have the BB stripe.
I,would have posted the actual,pic, but am on the iPad. Now.
Thanks I ordered the paint today
Dayley/Chall........ I can see why you painted your rear finish panel black, looks good like that. The black trim against the yellow really stands out. When I restored my finish panel, I went ahead and ordered the paint from Daves Totally Auto, but 2 cans each of the light and the dark argent. But I screwed up and shot the light tone instead of the proper dark tone, Duh! So now I have to repaint with the dark tone. Made myself some extra work.
Timbbuc2....... Great you've got the paint on order, with all the work you've done to the grill already your efforts will not go unrewarded. Thanks, Al
IN reality, the BB stripe should not have extended to go behind the bumper, but my painter got off on the ending spot on the sides so,to make it blend I just painted it all . I will post some better pics tomorrow, so there won't be a link to go,to.
pics.....these are from 2007
While I am waiting for the paint I went ahead and painted the black around the egg crate. Everything is taped off waiting for the paint to come maybe tomorrow
This was patterned off the original paint.
Thats sharpe
I love the Bee stripe on Challengers !! :bigthumb:
Grill done
Looking good there Tim. Time is all it takes. We just never get done!
Quote from: DAYLEY/CHALLENGER on October 14, 2017, 07:33:17 PM
Looking good there Tim. Time is all it takes. We just never get done!
You are correc t one piece at a time
I also painted my SE trim panel black above the taillights ,rather than Argent , my choice !
You are going witht he Argent grille with a shaker hood , I woul;d have though you would go black ?
Step by step it is coming together at least , keep up the good work !!
Ihought about black. It was paintwf black before I got it
Suspension is all done including torsion bars. Being this is my first restoration of a Mopar, I had a tough time with the rubber boots on the torsion bar. So I came up with this little trick., its a small funnel i cut to the size of the torsion bar. May be better ways but this worked for. Plan on cranking the motor for the first time next week :banana: I have to rebuild my carb.
Great that you are getting that close , cool trick for the T bar seals too
I have a,question , the chrome strip that goes on the back side of the hood near the windshield, whats the best way to install without damaging the paint?
Tim
:thinking: 8 years ago when I installed mine
It slips on , looks like it might damage the paint if done correctly
The chrome edge has a gripping effect and I think the top is slick to,not dig into the paint, but the bottom edge has to,have some sort of teeth or something to,hold the strip on. Mine has been on since 07, and have not seen any problem with paint. It's just not made to be put on and off Just make sure it goes on right the first time. Same as the short strips for the fender ends.
No sign of attaching hardware when removed from my car, late 2006. By all signs it appeared as if they had remained in place from new.
Installing the starter but it wont go all the way end. I had a starter i bought off cc.com so went to a box store and got another one and same thing. Looks like it has a metal insert in the trans housing. Should I try and get it out. This is the 727 that came in my car. What the heck is this? Part of the old starter?
My old starter fell off one day in the Lowes Parking lot in town.........Roll Back to the house...., remove the header and New starter install.........I don't know if the pics of what I bought will help but here they are.......
Quote from: DAYLEY/CHALLENGER on October 31, 2017, 02:54:37 PM
My old starter fell off one day in the Lowes Parking lot in town.........Roll Back to the house...., remove the header and New starter install.........I don't know if the pics of what I bought will help but here they are.......
Thats exactly what I have, but it will not go in as far as it should. Over the years its no telling what has been done
Mine has the 727 also...........Mystery..........
Quote from: DAYLEY/CHALLENGER on October 31, 2017, 03:29:26 PM
Mine has the 727 also...........Mystery..........
I think over the past 40 years someone didi some shadetree mechanicing lol
What is diameter of removed starter nose and starter replacement noses ?
Quote from: 73440 on October 31, 2017, 06:09:51 PM
What is diameter of removed starter nose and starter replacement noses ?
I will measure today but they are the same size. Since I have owned the car I have not had a starter installed.
Quote from: DAYLEY/CHALLENGER on October 31, 2017, 03:29:26 PM
Mine has the 727 also...........Mystery..........
Mystery solved. Looks like someone put this insert for some reason. Put a screwdriver inside and it came out no problem. Who knows lol Now the starter goes in no problem
looks like the cap from a dipstick :dunno: wonder if it got magnetized & randomly stuck to the starter shaft at the nose-cone somewhere along the line?
This car has been in pieces for the last 20 some years so it is no telling
Glad to help! :drinkingbud:
Steering wheel installed today and everything works. But while I was installing the wheel I saw one wire that I forgot to connect. The infamous title lamp. I saw a thread that
@Cuda Cody (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda-cody_1) help someone else, now that problem is solved. Anyone that is working on a e-body have come to a great site.
What would be a good carb for my 383, the carter I have is beyond repair.
For a stock 383 a 650 AVS works nicely.
Thanks
Do a video if you can Tim. :banana:
Awesome good that you are getting close :cooldance:
Since this engine is not original to my car, I have a question the vacuum nipple on the back of the intake. This nipple is for brake booster I presume, but where do I get the vacuum for the AC? Does a car with AC have a double nipple on the intake?
Tim
Can't wait to hear that engine run. :banana: There's nothing better than hearing it fire and run for the first time validating all the hard work you put into it. And what a great time to do it. Talk about a great Christmas Present! Make sure you video it and post it. Good luck! :twothumbsup:
That is an interesting place to run the shaker cable . . . mine I believe comes through the firewall closer to the brake booster and runs behind the intake. Sweet car and look forward to the big day of getting that running! Very cool!
:clapping:
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on December 21, 2017, 03:23:53 PM
Since this engine is not original to my car, I have a question the vacuum nipple on the back of the intake. This nipple is for brake booster I presume, but where do I get the vacuum for the AC? Does a car with AC have a double nipple on the intake?
Tim
If you don't already have the answer then yes a double nipple, one 3/8" & one 1/8"
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on December 29, 2017, 08:47:02 AM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on December 21, 2017, 03:23:53 PM
Since this engine is not original to my car, I have a question the vacuum nipple on the back of the intake. This nipple is for brake booster I presume, but where do I get the vacuum for the AC? Does a car with AC have a double nipple on the intake?
Tim
If you don't already have the answer then yes a double nipple, one 3/8" & one 1/8"
Who sells them thanks
:unitedstates: :rebelflag" https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Power-Brake-Vacuum-Fitting-Port-Intake-Manifold-AC-Air-Grabber-GTX-Cuda/231847853912?fits=Make%3ADodge&hash=item35fb357f58:g:qjsAAOSwpDdVDk~P&vxp=mtr
Personally I'd be scrounging, they are still around... But if easy is more important than cheap... Here ya go....
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xmopar+vacuum+fitting.TRS0&_nkw=mopar+vacuum+fitting&_sacat=0
Thanks for the info, I will get one ordered
Is there a drawing somewhere with the correct color code vacuum lines for a ac heater box. Opps i forgot to install when I had the box out.
Regarding the shaker cable location with AC, I know shakers didn't come from the factory with AC but is there a problem using the "factory" cable location? Where is the factory location?
I have a 71 barracuda vert with factory AC which will have a shaker with AC (dormant project).
Quote from: larry4406 on December 31, 2017, 06:24:46 AM
Regarding the shaker cable location with AC, I know shakers didn't come from the factory with AC but is there a problem using the "factory" cable location? Where is the factory location?
I have a 71 barracuda vert with factory AC which will have a shaker with AC (dormant project).
https://forum.e-bodies.org/reference-material/18/e-body-hole-locations-firewall-door-interior-ect/303/90
Maybe I copied the link correctly
Does anyone have pictures of a alternator bracket and water pump tension pulley. This is a 383 ac car.
Thanks
https://youtu.be/uH0EMHkByjA
This is how I cleaned my grill . This is a brush with abrasives embedded into the bristles. And also used Mothers buffing compound. I had to run it in reverse also to get the left side corners. This was time consuming . But turned out well.
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on June 09, 2018, 11:36:47 AM
https://youtu.be/uH0EMHkByjA
This is how I cleaned my grill . This is a brush with abrasives embedded into the bristles. And also used Mothers buffing compound. I had to run it in reverse also to get the left side corners. This was time consuming . But turned out well.
good idea!
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on May 27, 2018, 11:26:33 AM
Does anyone have pictures of a alternator bracket and water pump tension pulley. This is a 383 ac car.
Thanks
These help?
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on June 09, 2018, 12:04:32 PM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on May 27, 2018, 11:26:33 AM
Does anyone have pictures of a alternator bracket and water pump tension pulley. This is a 383 ac car.
Thanks
These help?
That's what I need thanks
1970 Challenger RT/SE with 383 and AC. Hope they help. :handshake:
Well a 2 week vacation is coming to end. So you ask"Did you crank your car" well actually life happens again. Better half decided she wanted new kitchen cabinets. After what I have spent on my car ,no way I could say no. So I had to prep the kitchen,such as remove wallpaper and paint. I did manage to get one full day. But what the heck, going to have a new kitchen. And also I had my grand daughter for 5 days. That was great
Cars are a hobby, we play when we can... Keeping Momma happy is definitely a higher priority & spending time with the grand daughter well it just don't get much better than that.... The car will be there when you have time for it....
I agree: Cars are a great diversion and hobby but family stuff is more important.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on July 07, 2018, 07:51:05 AM
I agree: Cars are a great diversion and hobby but family stuff is more important.
:yes: :iagree:
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on June 09, 2018, 12:04:32 PM
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on May 27, 2018, 11:26:33 AM
Does anyone have pictures of a alternator bracket and water pump tension pulley. This is a 383 ac car.
Thanks
These help?
Thanks @ 1wildR/t, those pictures really helped.
Also thank you @ heademj for the pictures they really helped.
More pics of the engine
Been awhile since I posted any updates, but I have been on it. Bought my tires and now getting ready to install my vinyl top. All interior parts have been prepped.
Opinions wanted on this, I have all the trim that goes down the side and it's in good shape. Currently there are no holes in the side of the car to attach it, so what does everyone think, should I put them on the car or leave it off?
Once you drill A hole there is no going back, one slip of the drill it's back to the paint shop. personally I like A stripe better! :alan2cents:
I assume you are talking about the bump trim mid door level , I bet you could attach it with good 2 sided tape & no holes , the trim on my van is just taped in place
Personally I would leave it off. If you do decide to install it you can use a double sided tape. 3M makes a good one in a variety of widths. I would be sure you use the clear tape and not the white foam tape. It is good stuff--I use it every day in the sign business. One of my first jobs out of high school was prepping cars for auctions..I spent my whole day putting vinyl side moldings on and pin stripping cars-cutting in white walls. I think only the factory drilled holes for the side moldings everything else was stick on.
JS27
Quote from: js27 on March 13, 2019, 11:37:27 AM
Personally I would leave it off. If you do decide to install it you can use a double sided tape. 3M makes a good one in a variety of widths. I would be sure you use the clear tape and not the white foam tape. It is good stuff--I use it every day in the sign business. One of my first jobs out of high school was prepping cars for auctions..I spent my whole day putting vinyl side moldings on and pin stripping cars-cutting in white walls. I think only the factory drilled holes for the side moldings everything else was stick on.
JS27
Thats kind of how I was thinking.
Ok here goes, the method and process is one I am going to use and. may not be correct for a trained professional. After research and speaking with trained technicians, I started by taping off the area that I am not working on, easier for me than cleaning up glue.
After taping I sanded the top with 320 sandpaper where I could not see any shine. You have to give something for the glue to adhere to. Once sanded I corrected any imperfections I found.
Then you must find the center of the roof line, on my car there is a factory notch front and rear(see pics) I ran a string front to back then sprayed a small of primer over the string leaving a center guide. Then I am going to mark the back side of the vinyl top with a pencil.
Let mention once again this is my first time and will be a drawn out process since I have to wait for my son(muscles) to help.If anyone sees something they think is incorrect please chime in.
With this being a SE with wide seams ,I was told it is one of the most difficult. Measure, measure, measure, you want the seams the same on each side.
The contact glue I bought from Amazon, it's sprayable, I have a cheap gun I bought at Harbor Freight that I will be using
:popcorn:
Marked the center of vinyl top on the back side
Had a good day, my son came up and helped me with top. I prefit the vinyl top chrome to see how far to glue the top. So once the chrome is in place I used painter's tape to help keep the over spray and draw exactly where to trim the top. All information I could find is the top is trimed to fit half distance of the chrome,
Once I had the center glued, about a 4" wide strip front to back, I sprayed car and top to the seam. Let it dry to the touch, then I put pieces of cardboard to keep the 2 surfaces separated until I was ready. So slowly slide the cardboard out about 1 to 2 inches while putting tension on the top,once you rub the top it's pretty much set. Continue until you reach the seam. Don't freak out when you see the puckers on the seam. Do only one side at a time. I had a plastic tool that really helped to get it smooth. The side pieces take a little work but it's doable. This is a 2 person job.
By the way my seams were perfect
Need to see how you did the bottom of the back window :bigthumb:
After the top was on, installed the trim at the bottom of the window to see what needed to be trimmed, I took a pencil and marked the outside of the trim and then trimmed off the vinyl so it would Jack up the chrome. The vinyl is is under the chrome alittle more than half of the width of the chrome. The fasters do go through the vinyl for support.
Still have to trim out the window. I do have a question about the post for the clips, Do the post screw in. The clips I got from MoparDave came with screws. So can I screw the old posts out.
The bottom of mine was approx 6" too wide , not sure why ?
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on March 17, 2019, 10:51:34 PM
The bottom of mine was approx 6" too wide , not sure why ?
Had the same issue, maybe not 6" to wide but enough to cause me to have to do extra ...this is how I fixed mine. Tim's looks ok and the seams look good too.
Extra material is likely because you didn't pull out the sides enough :alan2cents: We've done a lot of tops here and never had that issue :dunno:
Is the rear interior window trim padded. My trim was broke ,having to repair it. It has what looks like 3/8" foam under the fabric.
I didn't have any interior trim. Had to fabricate it all. That's a whole nother set of pics. They are on the desktop. Will have to get to them tomorrow. I did use foam, but thicker., and corrugated plastic as the base/carrier.
Quote from: anlauto on March 20, 2019, 09:44:23 AM
Extra material is likely because you didn't pull out the sides enough :alan2cents: We've done a lot of tops here and never had that issue :dunno:
The guys that put my top on didn't have a lot of experience with vinyl. I just made the best of a situation . I can live with it for now. Sort of have to!
I believe they should have slid the vinyl forward a bit and that would have resulted in less material in the back. The original SE's had foam around the roof plug but I found it was better to fill it with bondo instead. If your SE top is on with no issues, you should celebrate.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on March 20, 2019, 07:15:19 PM
I believe they should have slid the vinyl forward a bit and that would have resulted in less material in the back. The original SE's had foam around the roof plug but I found it was better to fill it with bondo instead. If your SE top is on with no issues, you should celebrate.
I had pretty much the same amount of fabric front and back to pull and not get glue on my hands. Now I did buy a Legendary top. My car was painted when I bought it and I did have a area that had a indention at the plug area. I sanded and put glazing putty, turned out pretty good
OK. some pics of the trim I made...........
Looks good, I bet that was a lot of work, Mine had been redone somewhere it's past history, and I hope this work was not done by a upholstery shop, if it was they are probably not still in business.
It's been a while since I've restored an SE but doesn't that interior trim piece take place of the metal moldings ? I see you're using both :huh:
The metal fit the shape of the window so I thought it belonged, but three was nothing else that I saw to fill in the space. Have never seen an actual SE interior, just winged it that was the result. Like the vinyl top, just the way it is. Maybe not how it was but I think everyone does what they need to do to make these OLD Cars presentable.
Is anyone reproducing the over head dome light for a SE? I found the lense
Been a busy week, I am prepping the headliner and overhead consolette for new material. The fiber board over the years has had some damage,time consuming. Several of the clips for the consolette were missing so I had to make those, working like original, and repairing the rear window trim. But the good thing is I have one and have something to work with.
A few of the pics of my top.................Good Luck.
Originally from the factory, there wasn't any foam backing on the fabric material that was used to cover the SE headliner or the SE interior rear window trim piece. Unfortunately, that type of fabric doesn't seem to be available anywhere without foam attached. My purple SE has it's original headliner intact. I'll try to get some pictures later today.
Quote from: PlumCrazyRTSE on March 23, 2019, 06:41:47 AM
Originally from the factory, there wasn't any foam backing on the fabric material that was used to cover the SE headliner or the SE interior rear window trim piece. Unfortunately, that type of fabric doesn't seem to be available anywhere without foam attached. My purple SE has it's original headliner intact. I'll try to get some pictures later today.
I bought my material from Legendary, and it has the foam backing, pictures would be great, thanks. The headliner I took out , the consolette had the seams glued, on the window trim it was sewn in the corners.
By the material I took off had no foam backing, very thick material.
Dayclona reproduces the board in fibreglass, they fit like a glove. I was lucky enough to find original style material from an upholsterer that was as old as I am.
Tim.........just had to add to this.........original equipment on the SE.................Look to see if you have these parts too.......
:rofl:
Quote from: DAYLEY/CHALLENGER on April 01, 2019, 02:58:21 PM
Tim.........just had to add to this.........original equipment on the SE.................Look to see if you have these parts too.......
Dang, another part I don't have :looney:
:rofl:
Hey, what you guys doing down that way trying to mess with the Wood Brothers racing rig?
Wood Brothers Racing hauler involved in crash on way back from Texas
The Wood Brothers Racing hauler containing Paul Menard's NASCAR Cup car was reportedly involved in a traffic crash this morning in Birmingham, Alabama.
The hauler and rig were reportedly on their way back from Texas Motor Speedway to the team's home base in Mooresville, North Carolina, when the accident occurred.
A team spokesman told NBC Sports: "We can confirm that our team's race hauler was involved in an accident in Birmingham, as it was returning to Mooresville from Ft. Worth. There were no injuries and our transportation team was not at fault. The tractor was the only piece of equipment damaged."
T
The accident got as much coverage on th local news as they do on race day, nothing, maybe more at 11
OK well that is weird as my headliner had foam backed material & it was the foam that deteriorated & caused the headliner to hang down , it did not seem to be replaced material as i have owned the car since 80
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 01, 2019, 10:07:39 PM
OK well that is weird as my headliner had foam backed material & it was the foam that deteriorated & cause the headliner to hang down , it did not seem to be replaced material as i have owned the car since 80
Mine was replaced sometime in its life, it was not a very good job
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 01, 2019, 10:07:39 PM
OK well that is weird as my headliner had foam backed material & it was the foam that deteriorated & cause the headliner to hang down , it did not seem to be replaced material as i have owned the car since 80
:iagree: with Chryco. My headliner had foam backed material that sagged in several places. The foam had basically turned to dust. The black material was still okay. I believe the headliner was original to the car.
Quote from: headejm on April 02, 2019, 07:54:29 AM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 01, 2019, 10:07:39 PM
OK well that is weird as my headliner had foam backed material & it was the foam that deteriorated & cause the headliner to hang down , it did not seem to be replaced material as i have owned the car since 80
:iagree: with Chryco. My headliner had foam backed material that sagged in several places. The foam had basically turned to dust. The black material was still okay. I believe the headliner was original to the car.
What I bought has the foam
Quote from: PlumCrazyRTSE on March 23, 2019, 06:41:47 AM
Originally from the factory, there wasn't any foam backing on the fabric material that was used to cover the SE headliner or the SE interior rear window trim piece. Unfortunately, that type of fabric doesn't seem to be available anywhere without foam attached. My purple SE has it's original headliner intact. I'll try to get some pictures later today.
How long have you owned your SE? Cause I owned mine starting in 74 & my uncle bought his new... They both had foam between the fabric & the fiber board... It was thinner than what is used today but there was foam.... :alan2cents:
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 02, 2019, 11:12:48 AM
Quote from: PlumCrazyRTSE on March 23, 2019, 06:41:47 AM
Originally from the factory, there wasn't any foam backing on the fabric material that was used to cover the SE headliner or the SE interior rear window trim piece. Unfortunately, that type of fabric doesn't seem to be available anywhere without foam attached. My purple SE has it's original headliner intact. I'll try to get some pictures later today.
How long have you owned your SE? Cause I owned mine starting in 74 & my uncle bought his new... They both had foam between the fabric & the fiber board... It was thinner than what is used today but there was foam.... :alan2cents:
As I mention, the material on my headliner was redone sometime in the life of the car, because it was a crappy job. The material that person used was a very heavy material.
I got many new parts with my car and some ie fuel lines were not for my car. Today I stuck the package tray in and it's short about two inches on each side. Is this normal or do have another incorrect part?
My package tray is about 6" short on either side. That 6" is made up by a flat black extension piece that is part of the package tray.
Quote from: headejm on April 07, 2019, 08:20:38 PM
My package tray is about 6" short on either side. That 6" is made up by a flat black extension piece that is part of the package tray.
Thank you so much for the info, I don't have that
I'd just add that piece to yours. Pretty sure it is hidden anyway. :cheers:
Bought a pair of "SE" emblems that go on the sail panels, my sail panel has 2 holes for the emblem, one ontop of the other. The emblems only has one pin to mount . What is correct?
Hey Tim. My SE emblems are not the correct ones.........mine attach with a center screw. But that is what I got with the car. I think they are Charger emblems. Anyway a couple of pics If yours have pins I think they mount with the same type of nut like the hood letters are secured.
OOps,,,,,,,,,,,,didn't realize the pics were out of focus, but....they are on the car now..........so that's it.
The 2 holes in your sail panel are factory. The original emblems used weird little clips to mount them and most break once they are removed. Yes Daley's emblems are for a Charger but a lot of people just fill in the center hole and repaint to use on a Challenger.
That's how the reproductions come, they are the right size but you'll probably have to mount them using some adhesive or whatever. Only the early NOS emblems came with replacement clips. I've only ever seen maybe a handful of them for sale over many years, they are really really hard to find these days.
Exciting time, interior going in, headliner in , carpet going down
You're doing well, that's looking nice.
Your getting there. Just takes time. Looking good.
:bigthumb: Nice
I hate to be that guy but, I be leave the dome light is sup post to face the other direction. :alan2cents: the over head console's are one of my favorite parts of the package! :ohyeah:
:happybday:
Quote from: JS29 on April 19, 2019, 06:05:47 AM
I hate to be that guy but, I be leave the dome light is sup post to face the other direction. :alan2cents: the over head console's are one of my favorite parts of the package! :ohyeah:
No problem , thanks for the info. First time headliner has been in the car in many years. I will check it out.
Thanks for the update. How about some pics???
Here is acouple
Those seat covers came out really nice. :clapping: :worship: :twothumbsup:
Another piece of the puzzle. Bought a battery topper just because I didn't want to pay ridiculous amount for a battery. I think it looks pretty good.
Got her running today. Boy did she sound good. Uploading a video to YouTube and I will post a link here. I am thinking this is the first time in 30 to 35 years since she ran,
It got hot running in the cam but I think it will be ok, not the first one I have seen to get hot since everything was new. This thing sounded so good. I had a oil leak on one valve cover I will fix that. Well pleased with the sound and performance
Congrats on getting it running.... that's an exciting time!!
https://youtu.be/WCbVtMM2FRA
Getting close to being done, I didn't want to hack up my wiring for my radio and also not change my speakers to go with a modern radio with the vintage ebody look. So with that being said I decided to go ahead and step up to the plate and buy a original 70 ebody Am/FM radio. OUCH that hurt. But I have one. Will be here this week
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on September 22, 2019, 07:22:38 PM
Got her running today. Boy did she sound good. Uploading a video to YouTube and I will post a link here. I am thinking this is the first time in 30 to 35 years since she ran,
Congrats on making some noise! I'm looking forward to that day on my car project.
Looks and sounds great, won't be long.
Congrats on getting her running! :yes:
:iagree:
AT least you are making progress , always fun when you get it running !!
Maybe the neighbors won't mind some noise.....!!! Baby steps are getting farther apart.........growing up............ :ohyeah: :ohyeah:
Quote from: DAYLEY/CHALLENGER on October 01, 2019, 01:19:44 PM
Maybe the neighbors won't mind some noise.....!!! Baby steps are getting farther apart.........growing up............ :ohyeah: :ohyeah:
Neighbors will betting a ear full, while I was running in the cam one neighbor said "Hey did you get it running? "I thought what. Here's your sign .... lol
I have one electrical gremlins, my title lamp stays on all the time. I first thought the time delay would cut it off but it dont I bought a new time delay but it didn't help. Any ideas?
I've been away for a while, but it sure looks like it is coming together!! Nice work!
Quote from: EB3-GranCoupe on October 13, 2019, 06:47:58 PM
I've been away for a while, but it sure looks like it is coming together!! Nice work!
Thanks, but between the flu and a new job have not worked on it for a couple of weeks
Hey Tim. Hope you are feeling better. Crazy weather causes a lot of bad things. Supposed to be 82 here tomorrow!
Thanks Dave, much better now. Coming along on my car just got a 70 model am/FM installed. Sounds and looks good
I had an AM/FM in my original '70 Cuda with rear speakers and fader switch. I thought I was the hot ticket back then. :lookatthat: My current Cuda came with a AM 8 Track. I sent it to re be rebuilt and had them add a port for my I-Touch so I can play my music. Unfortunately it doesn't have rear speakers and I didn't add any as it is #s car. However, I did upgrade/replace the three speakers in the dash so it sounds pretty good considering. :bigthumb:
So I have not been working on my as much as I should, doing the grandpa thing, "Baby Sitting". Love the babies but I had forgot how much work it takes. Eat-change a diaper-eat, change a diaper lol.
I did work on my back seat. Cleaned and painted the springs, bought burlap and .40 spring steel for the seats. Waiting for a warm day to put on the seat covers.
Also bit the bullet and bought new rocker panel moldings. Also bought the plastic clip set, there is a metal clip that goes on the front and I was lucky enough to have the original set.
But my original moldings gas a hole for a screw in front of the rear wheels, the repop don't have a screw hole. Should I put a screw in it like the original?
I used 1" tape as a guide to replace the spring steel wire. Then removed it after I finished
Few more pics
That looks really nice! :clapping:
Quote from: Timbbuc2 on October 06, 2019, 08:12:03 AM
I have one electrical gremlins, my title lamp stays on all the time. I first thought the time delay would cut it off but it dont I bought a new time delay but it didn't help. Any ideas?
Looking really good!
The title lamp is the overhead console dome lamp I believe? Not sure if this will fix your problem, and I was not aware of this until just the other day or I would have included one with the lamp I sold you, but there is supposed to be a short ground wire that runs from the dome lamp to the overhead console. I believe it goes to the post as shown in the first picture. It has a clip-on connector at one end and a ring terminal at the other end. Easy to make if you don't have one with your overhead console / headliner setup, or if you would like just PM me your address again and I can send you one.
Thanks but I had one from my other lamp
Got the back seat covered last week, now that boys and girls was tough, I had took eeverything apart to clean, repair and paint so the padding was relaxed. It took my wife and i to get the covers on. And it turned out reall nice.
I do have one question and I have read things, does the trunk lock assy go through the rear trunk chrome pannel or does the lock assy go on firts, a good picture would be great.
For sure the trunk lock goes in before the SE tail panel goes on.
Quote from: EV2RTSE on April 26, 2020, 05:48:12 PM
For sure the trunk lock goes in before the SE tail panel goes on.
Thank you
I have heard some will use the lock to hold the panel down when the hardware is gone. :alan2cents:
Quote from: JS29 on April 27, 2020, 08:05:44 AM
I have heard some will use the lock to hold the panel down when the hardware is gone. :alan2cents:
Which hardware. Asking because I don't know lol
The hardware that attaches the trim panel to the body. :alan2cents: