Hi all my name is Fabion and this is my 74 cuda I just got this spring. It's my first time restoring a mopar and i have restored 67 mustang coupe which was my first car. The body isn't in that bad of a shape since I got the car from Oklahoma. I'm in the process of replacing the trunk floor,passenger side quarter,passenger wheel well and drop off panels. I'm also putting on the 71 cuda front end learned the hard way it's a expensive swap.
I also have the 74 cuda grill for sale or trade for 71 front end party's like headlight bucket or trim etc. Everything seem to fit nicely accept the rear part of the outer well wheel I'll have to massage it anit. I'm just testing fitting the panels
Looks like you got a good start on the metal work. :twothumbsup: Nice job.
When you get that new door, put 52 pounds of dead weight in it (if it's just a shell) and do your body work with the doors hung so you can see how they line up with the quarters. It makes it a little easier to get really good body lines if the doors have their guts in them or have the same amount of weight so they sag about the same as they will when you install them for the final time. :alan2cents:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on July 05, 2017, 12:11:38 PM
Looks like you got a good start on the metal work. :twothumbsup: Nice job.
When you get that new door, put 52 pounds of dead weight in it (if it's just a shell) and do your body work with the doors hung so you can see how they line up with the quarters. It makes it a little easier to get really good body lines if the doors have their guts in them or have the same amount of weight so they sag about the same as they will when you install them for the final time. :alan2cents:
Thanks for the tip. I'll put the door back on when I start to weld it up.
Hi every body need some help identifying a part. It seems like some type of brace but idk where it goes it came with the car. I highlighted it red plus what year is cuda radiator is this for.
Radiator looks (by the number) to be a 1971. The other part looks to be a filler panel for a bumper? :notsure:
Just looked up the Radiator and it's a 1971 Dart and Valiant Slant 6 225 w/ AC 22" radiator Stamped part 3443 985 / Parts book number 3443 988
Thanks again Cody
Did some more sanding and media blasting. Hopefully it doesn't rain tomorrow so I can weld in the trunk floor.
Every little bit gets you a little closer. :) Try not to let that open metal sit to long. Maybe some epoxy on those areas would be a good idea? :wrenching:
Yes i need to any recommendation
Any good quality 2 part automotive epoxy will work. If you do not have a paint gun and air to spray it, they do make it in a rattle can called 2K.
I got a compressor and a paint gun. I'll try my local auto part store for some primer
Well I found out what color I would like to paint the cuda. It's between dodge Jazz blue and the car that got me into cudas.
Both really cool colors.
The colour on that modern car looks nice.
I'd go with the original Cuda color myself. Not a fan of putting modern colors on classics. :alan2cents:
I found this blue cuda anybody know the name of the color.
Well the front fenders and rear Valance came today. The sherman fender quality seems to be fair I can already tell I'm going to have work on the gill area seems to have more metal then needed in some areas. She looking like a car again :banana:
Good driveway shot of the Mustang too. It has a cool look to it.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on July 10, 2017, 02:23:38 PM
I found this blue cuda anybody know the name of the color.
that's the first $1M Mopar musclecar - it's paint code
GB5 "true blue metallic"
Thanks. It's a nice color
Well got me the 71 cuda grill today at Carlisle and had to see how it looked. I used a bungee cord hold it up
Looks like your working hard on it! I am doing a 74 myself and it's always fun watching others do the same. Keep up the good work it will all pay off in the end!
Quote from: kjwalters on July 15, 2017, 03:57:12 PM
Looks like your working hard on it! I am doing a 74 myself and it's always fun watching others do the same. Keep up the good work it will all pay off in the end!
Thanks trying to get the body work done no later then this month.
Thats gonna look great! Are you keeping the round taillights? I really like them as is.
The 71 grille is one of the best looking front ends on any muscle car ever. Glad you found one at the show. Thanks for the update and keep up the great work.
Orange is my personal like color for an E-body, but......the blue colors are my next choice. Just ask my grand children. Thanks, Al
That's going to look cool.
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 16, 2017, 06:52:06 AM
Thats gonna look great! Are you keeping the round taillights? I really like them as is.
Yes i do plan on keeping the round tailights. I like them alot also.
@Cuda cody these are the 2 best looking front end. Just my opinion
I can not argue with that. Both classic images of what a muscle car should look like. :inlove:
I agree Cody! I also like the mixture of the 71 front end with the later round tailamps as well. They sure aren't giving those grilles away though, are they? :unbelievable:
Quote from: jimynick on July 16, 2017, 08:19:31 PM
I agree Cody! I also like the mixture of the 71 front end with the later round tailamps as well. They sure aren't giving those grilles away though, are they? :unbelievable:
They sure arent 650 for the whole grill assembly Carlisle. There where original ones at Carlisle with some cracks going for 800 to 1200 dollars.
Just alittle update. I did some more sanding blasting and wire wheeling on the front end of the cuda. Plus I cut out the old radiator support. I also order my qa1 upper control arm and strut rods found both under 500 shipped couldn't pass it up. Will be pushing the cuda back in the garage to finish up some more metal work. I will never understand the fascination with sunroof in muscle cars back in the days why people did it.
You are welding that up right? The sunroof... :notsure:
Oh yeah: I passed over a few cars back in the day because the owners thought cutting a hole in the roof was a good idea,
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 18, 2017, 03:00:45 PM
You are welding that up right? The sunroof... :notsure:
Yes i am. I just never got what was so cool about a sunroof back in the days :barf:
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on July 18, 2017, 06:34:51 PM
Oh yeah: I passed over a few cars back in the day because the owners thought cutting a hole in the roof was a good idea,
I will never understand the madness
It seems the cars most picked on for that mod were F-body Camaros thankfully. However, nothing escaped the madness.
Well didn't do too much today accept clean up the mess that media blasting leaves and the garage. I also push the cuda back in to the so welding will start tomorrow. Took out the dumb sunroof and was curious does anybody have a picture of the roof from the inside i want to see if there is structural support that was in place. Didn't know the roof was so thin. Anybody want a sunroof.
Don't think there is any support right there, this is my -73 Challenger, but it should be about the same.
Pretty hard to weld up that big of a hole in the middle of the roof, no ridges to follow, I think you need a slightly curved piece also.
Looks like you have your work cut out for you...literally!! I love the '71 Cuda but if I were to change anything on my '74 would be the gill on the front fenders. I wish they would have kept that on all Cuda's throughout the years.
Happy welding Bud!! :wrenching:
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 19, 2017, 12:53:17 PM
Don't think there is any support right there, this is my -73 Challenger, but it should be about the same.
Pretty hard to weld up that big of a hole in the middle of the roof, no ridges to follow, I think you need a slightly curved piece also.
Thanks and you are correct it's the same.
Quote from: Deadeye74 on July 19, 2017, 02:27:55 PM
Looks like you have your work cut out for you...literally!! I love the '71 Cuda but if I were to change anything on my '74 would be the gill on the front fenders. I wish they would have kept that on all Cuda's throughout the years.
Happy welding Bud!! :wrenching:
You can always mod your 74 fenders to have the gills. It will take some time to get that roof area fix and im going to go one gauge steel above the original but I won't be on it til I finish welding up the rear. I got a problem where I bounce around different areas on the project.
I was putting 71 cuda grill together and one of the grill fins if that's what u would call it wouldn't fit smh.Plus how do u install the trim in the pic below
*
[/quote]You can always mod your 74 fenders to have the gills. It will take some time to get that roof area fix and im going to go one gauge steel above the original but I won't be on it til I finish welding up the rear. I got a problem where I bounce around different areas on the project.
[/quote]
Oh yeah...I had though about the gills back in '95...but I couldn't do it to basically an all original #'s car. When I did change things I kept whatever came off and made sure it could be put back to factory very easily.
:haha: You have the same "oh look..squirrel" technique as I do I see! I did my resto at the steel shop I worked at. During the work day I would sneak over to the building it was in and do whatever I could before the boss came looking for me. Sat & Sun when nobody else worked with me I had the car hanging from the bridge crane blasting and working on the undercarriage. Then I stayed after work until 10-11pm and did some more. I didnt have a garage at the time so you have it made there...work at your own pace.
Sorry..cant help you with the grill...I only have the '74 service manuals.
All six grill inserts are different, you might have got two mixed up or shipped two of the same ?
Quote from: Deadeye74 on July 20, 2017, 09:44:55 AM
*
You can always mod your 74 fenders to have the gills. It will take some time to get that roof area fix and im going to go one gauge steel above the original but I won't be on it til I finish welding up the rear. I got a problem where I bounce around different areas on the project.
[/quote]
Oh yeah...I had though about the gills back in '95...but I couldn't do it to basically an all original #'s car. When I did change things I kept whatever came off and made sure it could be put back to factory very easily.
:haha: You have the same "oh look..squirrel" technique as I do I see! I did my resto at the steel shop I worked at. During the work day I would sneak over to the building it was in and do whatever I could before the boss came looking for me. Sat & Sun when nobody else worked with me I had the car hanging from the bridge crane blasting and working on the undercarriage. Then I stayed after work until 10-11pm and did some more. I didnt have a garage at the time so you have it made there...work at your own pace.
Sorry..cant help you with the grill...I only have the '74 service manuals.
[/quote] lol very true.
Quote from: anlauto on July 20, 2017, 09:54:14 AM
All six grill inserts are different, you might have got two mixed up or shipped two of the same ?
You are correct I did have 2 of the same insert for the left said. I wonder if they could just send me 1. I will call them tomorrow
My QA1 upper control arm and strut rods came today
:iagree: Alan is right. Looks like you got the wrong size.
That QA1 looks pretty cool. :lookatthat:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on July 20, 2017, 02:24:30 PM
:iagree: Alan is right. Looks like you got the wrong size.
That QA1 looks pretty cool. :lookatthat:
They all came in one box with the grill. Hopefully they can just send me one that fits. Qa1 looks cool I'm going to use my stock lower control arm and probably just change the bushing.
[/quote] I'm going to use my stock lower control arm and probably just change the bushing.
[/quote]
Add the reinforcement plates to the LCA's, cheap and good modification.
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 21, 2017, 12:19:12 AM
I'm going to use my stock lower control arm and probably just change the bushing.
[/quote] Thanks I will.
Add the reinforcement plates to the LCA's, cheap and good modification.
[/quote]
Call the company about the grill and there going to send me another grill insert. I also welded in the front radiator support. It took some massage to make it work though.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on July 21, 2017, 04:57:32 PM
Call the company about the grill and there going to send me another grill insert. I also welded in the front radiator support. It took some massage to make it work though.
Good news. Glad to see your progress. It's really coming along nicely. :twothumbsup:
Great to see the progress on your build !
Glad the company will make the grille problem right for you too
" I got a problem where I bounce around different areas on the project."
Don't consider it a problem. Consider it as providing time to sort ideas for any given project.
I jump in with both feet on everything. Work thru what I know and then move on to another. All the while still thinking and planning for the one i moved away from. Many times it takes weeks or even months to "sort" in my head how to tackle something. Once figured you move back to it and then put the other back on the slow burner.
Any progress, no matter how small is progress. I most times only get 15-20 minutes a day. Things like prepping to clean stuff. Then tomorrow clean using what I prepped.
Enjoying what you have going. :bigthumb:
Mike.
Thanks I appreciate it
Well just got back from Vermont and saw a green 70 cuda driving around. Don't know if it's a member on here but it was nice. They sent me another piece for the grill insert and guess what it still doesn't fit smh.
Are you going to change the taillight panel as well to complete the look , it would not be much work seeing how far you have gone with all the metal work anyway ?
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on July 30, 2017, 06:40:13 AM
Are you going to change the taillight panel as well to complete the look , it would not be much work seeing how far you have gone with all the metal work anyway ?
Honestly no just my opinion I think the 72-74 cuda rear end looks the best.
I'm surprised the grille insert does not fit better. I've heard good things about the reproduction 71 grilles.
Nice job on the progress.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on July 30, 2017, 08:46:58 AM
I'm surprised the grille insert does not fit better. I've heard good things about the reproduction 71 grilles.
Nice job on the progress.
Thanks and me 2. Guess I'll have to send it back and see if they are going to send me another 1 that works or I'm going to have to use the heat gun and glue to make it work
Quick question I don't remember if the trunk drop off pan get welded together with the trunk floor where they join together?
I cut out the driver side drop off pan and lower quarter panel.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 01, 2017, 11:49:38 AM
Quick question I don't remember if the trunk drop off pan get welded together with the trunk floor where they join together?
yeah, spotwelded.
Thanks
Quote from: soundcontrol on August 02, 2017, 03:01:53 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 01, 2017, 11:49:38 AM
Quick question I don't remember if the trunk drop off pan get welded together with the trunk floor where they join together?
yeah, spotwelded.
:iagree: When I replaced mine, or had them replaced, they got spot welded.
Little update today. I spot welded the passenger side trunk drop off pan and I'm probably going to paint the car black. Plus they sent me the correct grill insert for the 71 grill. A pic of how it should look painted.
Looking good. On those drop offs, try to get as much lined up first before you weld anything. It's best to put everything together (including the quarters by using clamps, sheet metal screws or anything else to hold it) and once you have 100% of it lined up and perfect, then go back and start welding. Using metal screws allows you to take things apart and put them back together in the same spot because you can align the holes. :alan2cents:
I had everything on and together before I welded it. It all lined up well. Another question I have is do those slots get welded or spot welded to the trunk floor?
Got the front end apart got a guy coming to buy the K member and grill there goes my front valance. Also had a accident my dr side fender fell and hit a rock and dented it smh going to take it to a body shop and see how much they will charge to fix it. I got a question about this part idk what it's call but it connects to the back of the brake spindle and to the steering rod do I have to replace the whole thing or do I just get a new dust cap and put it back together.
RH Lower Ball Joint
Thanks Lol I feel dumb. Also what is the size socket for the pitman arm that connectors to the steering box?
Yes, it's best just to replace that lower ball joint with a new one. Rock Auto gives us 5% off and they sell both Moog and AC Delco. Either of those will be good.
Thanks I'm so use to the lowerball joint being in the lower control arm. Another question I have is what size socket is needed for the pitman arm nut connected to the steering box?
I do not recall. I would have to crawl under a car to check. My first few days of the week are pretty busy, but I plan to be in the shop all day Thursday and can find out for you (if someone else doesn't already know the answer). Just PM me or remind me on Thursday morning if you still need the size and I will get it for you.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 06, 2017, 04:56:19 PM
Another question I have is what size socket is needed for the pitman arm nut connected to the steering box?
1-5/16" 12 point is a little loose , don't have a 6 point to check if that fits better, I am thinking it would slightly.
Thanks guys for the info. Another thing should I get my steering box rebuild or just get a reman from rock auto?
If money is tight, it will be hard to beat the price Rock Auto is going to give you and I'm sure it would be fine. But I personally would have Firm Feel rebuild mine to better / firmer then new specs. They drive so nice with a nice tight steering box.
What's there price to rebuild 1 ?
Most people do stage 2 or 3.
http://www.firmfeel.com/e_body_mopar_power_steering_box_rebuild.html
Looks like rockauto won that battle. What's needs to be rebuild on my LCA. I see i have to get the rubber part pushed out.
For me the LCA is the hardest part in a front end rebuild. Yes, you have to press out the LCA bushing and sleeve and press a new one in. I fight the old one with an air chisel, other guys have luck welding a strap across the old bushing sleeve and pressing it out.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 07, 2017, 10:08:54 AM
For me the LCA is the hardest part in a front end rebuild. Yes, you have to press out the LCA bushing and sleeve and press a new one in. I fight the old one with an air chisel, other guys have luck welding a strap across the old bushing sleeve and pressing it out.
Hmmm since I don't have a press. I'm going to see if I could use the one at my job. Where do I get the bushing for the LCA?
Well got done taking the dash,heater box and other miscellaneous stuff apart along with sanding the engine bay. Trying to get the front end cleaned up so I can primer it and paint it. I can't seem to get the steering box off the steering shaft. I took that little pin out but it's still stuck. Also do I need a new heater box because I'm not to sure if mines is complete or broken in places?
They sell the outside sections of the heater box.
I generally use two pickle forks together to split the steering box from the coupler if they're stubborn.
Did some more sanding and gravity took it's toll on the steering box and just drop off the steering column. While sanding the firewall and found a few little holes. Getting to close to priming and painting a front end of the car which needs to happen due parts adding up and taking up space. Another question how do u get the torsion bar I'll do you hit it from the front out or from the back out?
Has anyone here ever rewired there car using ez-wiring. I have used American auto wire before because thats what I used to rewired my mustang.
Torsion bar should key right through and pull out the back. I don't recall having to hit them with anything. After you have the rider height adjuster screw loose, maybe a slight love tap if it's a bit tight. When you put them back in do not forget the dust boot and the little clip that goes in the back.
M&H wiring is the best and super easy to install. It's pretty much plug and play because it's all factory correct. Year One sells M&H and they are having a 30% off sale right now with the coupon I posted in the deal area.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 08, 2017, 01:59:23 PM
Has anyone here ever rewired there car using ez-wiring. I have used American auto wire before because thats what I used to rewired my mustang.
On the rear of the torsion bar pretty certain there is an internal c-clip. Remove that. Make sure the adjuster on the lower control arm is detensioned to unwind the bar. Then you should be able to work the bar out towards the back. Careful in how you grab the bar to not groove it with a pipe wrench or other device. Grooves=cracks=premature failure. Pretty certain FSM has criteria on grooves in torsion bars and dressing of same with a file.
Thanks for the the heads up I'll try tomorrow. So the stock harness will work with the gen 3 hemi or should I get the gen 3 hemi engine harness
Gen 3 stuff is over my head. Might need to ask the guys in the Gen 3 Hemi swap area what they did. I'm guess the M&H will be of no use to you if you are doing a gen 3 swap. :sorry:
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 08, 2017, 04:29:23 PM
So the stock harness will work with the gen 3 hemi or should I get the gen 3 hemi engine harness
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 08, 2017, 04:29:23 PM
Thanks for the the heads up I'll try tomorrow. So the stock harness will work with the gen 3 hemi or should I get the gen 3 hemi engine harness
You will need a new harness for the Gen 3 Hemi.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 08, 2017, 04:47:39 PM
Gen 3 stuff is over my head. Might need to ask the guys in the Gen 3 Hemi swap area what they did. I'm guess the M&H will be of no use to you if you are doing a gen 3 swap. :sorry:
Quote from: justCuda70-74 on August 08, 2017, 04:29:23 PM
So the stock harness will work with the gen 3 hemi or should I get the gen 3 hemi engine harness
lol Thanks for the help
Quote from: 303 Mopar on August 08, 2017, 04:49:08 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 08, 2017, 04:29:23 PM
Thanks for the the heads up I'll try tomorrow. So the stock harness will work with the gen 3 hemi or should I get the gen 3 hemi engine harness
You will need a new harness for the Gen 3 Hemi.
so I'll need the harness from the firewall to the engine bay and I want use a cable for my throttle
You've got the back of the t-bar out the back so yes the front hex goes through the back as well. Sometimes I use a drift on the front of the bar to hammer it all the way through.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 08, 2017, 06:55:00 PM
You've got the back of the t-bar out the back so yes the front hex goes through the back as well. Sometimes I use a drift on the front of the bar to hammer it all the way through.
Cool thanks
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 08, 2017, 05:15:13 PM
Quote from: 303 Mopar on August 08, 2017, 04:49:08 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 08, 2017, 04:29:23 PM
Thanks for the the heads up I'll try tomorrow. So the stock harness will work with the gen 3 hemi or should I get the gen 3 hemi engine harness
You will need a new harness for the Gen 3 Hemi.
so I'll need the harness from the firewall to the engine bay and I want use a cable for my throttle
If youre doing a Hemi swap, you will need more than that, there is a complete new harness for the Hemi, you need to mount the computer inside the car and make a hole in the firewall for the extra harness, some functions will remain in the stock harness so keep that. Do you have an engine? You also need to read up on the swap, its a lot of other mods you need to do before it works. You can use a cable for the throttle. Hotwire Auto sells the harness among others.
Quote from: soundcontrol on August 09, 2017, 07:03:26 AM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 08, 2017, 05:15:13 PM
Quote from: 303 Mopar on August 08, 2017, 04:49:08 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 08, 2017, 04:29:23 PM
Thanks for the the heads up I'll try tomorrow. So the stock harness will work with the gen 3 hemi or should I get the gen 3 hemi engine harness
You will need a new harness for the Gen 3 Hemi.
so I'll need the harness from the firewall to the engine bay and I want use a cable for my throttle
If youre doing a Hemi swap, you will need more than that, there is a complete new harness for the Hemi, you need to mount the computer inside the car and make a hole in the firewall for the extra harness, some functions will remain in the stock harness so keep that. Do you have an engine? You also need to read up on the swap, its a lot of other mods you need to do before it works. You can use a cable for the throttle. Hotwire Auto sells the harness among others.
Here is my thread of everything you need and how to make the swap - https://forum.e-bodies.org/modern-hemi-swaps/26/392-hemi-swap-2016/67/msg432#msg432
No I don't have a engine yet. Thanks I'll read up on it. Its almost the same efi swap I did in my mustang where the junkyard became my best friend.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 09, 2017, 10:26:34 AM
No I don't have a engine yet. Thanks I'll read up on it. Its almost the same efi swap I did in my mustang where the junkyard became my best friend.
There are a lot of 5.7's available, some 6.1's and very few 6.4's.
Quote from: 303 Mopar on August 09, 2017, 10:47:16 AM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 09, 2017, 10:26:34 AM
No I don't have a engine yet. Thanks I'll read up on it. Its almost the same efi swap I did in my mustang where the junkyard became my best friend.
There are a lot of 5.7's available, some 6.1's and very few 6.4's.
Ill see if u can find a wreck charger,challenger or ram 1500.I also have read the 5.7 have some type of ring or piston problem.
Today I weld the inner fenders braces which was a PITA had modify the braces. Took longer than I though but got it done hopefully it was worth it.
Nice work. :ohyeah: But yea, they are a PITA to weld in. :rebelflag"
Thanks :banana:
Well today I was cleaning up the garage since now I have more parts then place to put it. I also installed my passenger side rear wheel well. I still got some spot weld to put down but it's in and everything lines up good. I got a question about my proportional valve. Do they sell a rebuild kit for them or should I just replace it?
I think you can get a new one for a decent price. I've not had to rebuild any yet so not sure what the options are for that.
Nice job on the brace. That will stiffen things up a lot.
Thanks I'll keep an eye out for 1
Do NOT toss that valve.... Feel free to buy a new one, good luck... An awful lot of the repos have issues with the spool or pintle binding due to poor (off shore) machining..... Which means half the brake system gets no pressure....
That style valve is easy to disassemble, clean & reassemble, there are two O rings which can be sourced but honestly I've reused the O rings in most cases with good results.... Just clean it out, soak the main body in Evaporust & make sure everything moves freely...
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on August 13, 2017, 12:11:12 AM
Do NOT toss that valve.... Feel free to buy a new one, good luck... An awful lot of the repos have issues with the spool or pintle binding due to poor (off shore) machining..... Which means half the brake system gets no pressure....
That style valve is easy to disassemble, clean & reassemble, there are two O rings which can be sourced but honestly I've reused the O rings in most cases with good results.... Just clean it out, soak the main body in Evaporust & make sure everything moves freely...
Thanks for the info will do.
Today I welded in the passenger side trunk drop which went in with a fight. I'm starting to see the end of the light at the end of the tunnel with the rear end.
Keep up the good work. Every little bit is a little closer to done.
Alittle update on the cuda. I got the bushing out in the LCA what a PITA it was without a press I had to burn them out. Plus the bushing I got from auto zone don't fit. I also did a some patch work on the lower front section of the driver quarter panel.
Control arm bushings without a press I imagine is pretty hard.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 15, 2017, 02:20:19 PM
Control arm bushings without a press I imagine is pretty hard.
Indeed it was
Today I finished up the patch panel for the firewall where thewioer motor sits. It was a PITA but it came out nice. I also welded in the brace for the lower control arms.
I love your energy and get it done attitude.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 18, 2017, 02:58:08 PM
I love your energy and get it done attitude.
Thanks I got to keep it up.
Very nice work. :bradsthumb: :rebelflag"
Little update didn't really do much since i was on vaction. Today my brother came over and we took the doors off.
Cuda coming sanding almost done on the front end hopefully primer and paint this weekend :banana:. Question how do you remove the windshield trim from the window I see there are some clips. I'm guessing there is a special tool for it.
You can buy or make the tool to get the trim off. The tool slips under the trim and releases the clip. The tool looks like this....
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 22, 2017, 12:19:27 PM
You can buy or make the tool to get the trim off. The tool slips under the trim and releases the clip. The tool looks like this....
Cool thanks
Be careful! I cracked mine.
Quote from: soundcontrol on August 22, 2017, 03:08:18 PM
Be careful! I cracked mine.
Don't want that happening. I might just leave it in since it's my first time doing it.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 22, 2017, 03:20:08 PM
Quote from: soundcontrol on August 22, 2017, 03:08:18 PM
Be careful! I cracked mine.
Don't want that happening. I might just leave it in since it's my first time doing it.
You might as well take it out, since you taking the whole car apart, there is always rust under there, I had some small rust holes even though
my car was pretty much rust free. It's not hard, I just screwed up and bended the tool with the glass as support, should not have done that. I used an oscillating mulit-tool with a blade from the inside to get the glass out, super easy, 5 minutes. It cuts the glue like butter. There is all kinds of tips on using pianowire etc, but this tool was the best.
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63111.html
Thanks but I took it off with a flat blade screwdriver seems pretty solid. I did break 1 clip tho
Clips are cheap and easy to replace. It's the glass that is hard to get out without breaking.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 23, 2017, 01:28:03 PM
Clips are cheap and easy to replace. It's the glass that is hard to get out without breaking.
I really wasn't planning on taking out the glass plus i have never taken out a windshield before.Couldn't u just heat up the sealant around the glass and cut out the glass?
I think they take a thin wire and run it between the glass and frame to "cut" the sealant. It's kinda tricky. There's almost always rust in the lower window channels of E-Bodies.
Trust me, it's so much easier with the machine I mentioned earlier! No need for heat either.
Oh that is slick!!!!
Wow that thing was cutting thru it. Thanks I'm going to have pick it up
Got a quick question Has anybody ever used this primer before(pic of it) I know it's not the expensive 2k type primer. The store clerk I bought it from said i dont need any lacquer thinner. I have never heard of a primer not needing it. I wanted to try it on a section on the car. So i went to home depot and got some paint thinner and did a 1:1 mix like it said on the can. It seems to lay down ok. What's your thought?
I also learned that these inner frame brace make it hard to paint on the inside of the inner frame brace.
Don't know about the primer, but Eastwood make a good rattle can paint for inside hard to get to places, called Internal Frame Coating. It has a long hose with a 360 degree nozzle. I used it so far in my rear frame rails and inside the rockers, works well. I painted the inside of my fender braces before I welded them in, but I still have to get some paint on the back of the welds later.
Any primers that are not catalyzed with a hardener will be a weak point in the paint so I would stronger suggest a catalyzed primer. The paint is only as strong as the weakest layer. I know of a really cheap super high quality catalyzed epoxy that is used in the commercial world and used to primer salt water boats. See if you can find a local auto paint store that sells Commercial Performance Coatings CRE. That stuff is like a bullet proof coating that will work really good for the money. The hard part is finding a dealer that sells it.
Quote from: soundcontrol on August 26, 2017, 03:22:52 PM
Don't know about the primer, but Eastwood make a good rattle can paint for inside hard to get to places, called Internal Frame Coating. It has a long hose with a 360 degree nozzle. I used it so far in my rear frame rails and inside the rockers, works well. I painted the inside of my fender braces before I welded them in, but I still have to get some paint on the back of the welds later.
I use internal frame coating on all my cars it's good stuff
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 26, 2017, 03:37:35 PM
Any primers that are not catalyzed with a hardener will be a weak point in the paint so I would stronger suggest a catalyzed primer. The paint is only as strong as the weakest layer. I know of a really cheap super high quality catalyzed epoxy that is used in the commercial world and used to primer salt water boats. See if you can find a local auto paint store that sells Commercial Performance Coatings CRE. That stuff is like a bullet proof coating that will work really good for the money. The hard part is finding a dealer that sells it.
I bought that primer from a local paint store. I was confused when the guy said you can use it right out the can I never heard of that. The instruction on the can says it uses a 1:1 mixture
The CRE is a 2k direct to bare metal epoxy primer. It's sold through the commercial line pf PPG so the price is less then the normal automotive line as it's a different department. Any quality 2k epoxy primer should hold up really well if you clean the metal good.
3M makes a popular product for inside the frame rails called Rust Fighter.
Think of it as like a cosmoline inside the frame rails.
It dries to a wax like consistency.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08998-Rust-Fighter-I-Application/dp/B0038D7GB2
Well started the hardest repair on the cuda which is the roof. I bought some 18 gauge from a local supplier and cut it in half. Place it on top of the roof and traced it. It took 2 attempts to cut it right but I got it. Did some spot welds around it.
The dreaded sunroof hack...
That's a tough repair area to fix. Go slow and take your time and you should be good. Keep compressed air next to you when you weld and blow the spot weld off right away to cool. Looks like you are doing a nice job on it. :)
If you are keeping that windshield you will want to cover it. the sparks from welding and grinding will pit it. welding blanket or even tape cardboard to it. it's pricey but 3M has A covering on A roll that sticks to the glass. same go's for any glass ware sparks are flying. :alan2cents:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 30, 2017, 02:10:55 PM
That's a tough repair area to fix. Go slow and take your time and you should be good. Keep compressed air next to you when you weld and blow the spot weld off right away to cool. Looks like you are doing a nice job on it. :)
Its coming along nicely and keeping the warpage down
Quote from: JS29 on August 30, 2017, 03:41:12 PM
If you are keeping that windshield you will want to cover it. the sparks from welding and grinding will pit it. welding blanket or even tape cardboard to it. it's pricey but 3M has A covering on A roll that sticks to the glass. same go's for any glass ware sparks are flying. :alan2cents:
Thanks for the info but the glass has some bad spot in the glass already and plus I cracked it at the edge also.
Ugly job, good on ya for trying it.
Haven't done much to the cuda except take out the front windshield since the tool came and been kind of sick. I broke the glass up even more :dunno:.
Been busy and haven't really did much to the cuda except find more rust in the roof and A pillars. I have order the last bit of sheet metal that I need since places are giving out discount codes. I'm probably going to have fab some metal to fix the roof where the window seats.
Sorry about the additional rust you discovered. That sucks. I also bought that windshield removing tool and while it worked, it was a PIA and took forever. After reading about using the multi-tool to removed the windshield on your thread, I borrowed my sons to removed the back window and I have to say what a difference. Much, much easier as well as considerably quicker. Good luck with the rust repairs. :twothumbsup:
Your in, your working, you will make it. Good progress. :perfect10:
Thanks for the encouragement. I'm in this deep I can't stop now
Hey guy no real updates on the cuda due to it being too cold. Plus I had to change the tranny on my mustang second gear went in the T5. Currently installing a new now. My friend got just got 2 Buick skylark a 69 and 70 that he wants me to help with . I will be getting back on the cuda since spring is here :banana:
Just found this thread, great progress so far, looking forward to see the journey to the finish line.
Quote from: Katfish on March 25, 2018, 06:15:19 AM
Just found this thread, great progress so far, looking forward to see the journey to the finish line.
Thanks. Weather going to start getting nice again will be back on the cuda
Well I finally cam get back on working the cuda. I just about finish putting in a new t5 in the mustang. I'm currently doing the floor pan patch.
Today I was working on my floor pan patch and it's coming along well. Hopefully by this weekend I'll be done with most of panel patches. :banana:
Weld, grind. Lots of hours.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on April 12, 2018, 06:59:42 PM
Weld, grind. Lots of hours.
Yes indeed it. Prep work takes the longest but end results are rewarding
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on April 12, 2018, 06:59:42 PM
Weld, grind. Lots of hours.
isn't that the truth!!!!!! :wrenching:
Went to a local car and was talking to an owner of 73 challenge with a 20 years old paint job which still looked nice. He was right about one thing when u do mopars u do stand out. Here are some pics of the cars.
Orange and White Challenger, best of the bunch!
The driver side floor pan is basically done and I'm working the rear wheel house and quarter panel patch
Another quick update on the cuda. Got the lower quarter panel patch in. I should be done with most of the body work by this week. The roof repair will be last. I want to car show and saw this nice super bee
Thanks for the pix :bradsthumb:
Body work is slow !!
Interesting Oldsmobile.... 63?
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 24, 2018, 09:50:59 PM
Thanks for the pix :bradsthumb:
Body work is slow !!
Your welcome and yes it is due to this weather not knowing what it wants to do.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on April 21, 2018, 03:38:50 PM
The driver side floor pan is basically done and I'm working the rear wheel house and quarter panel patch
Made almost the identical floor pan patch repair in my 'Cuda. Keep up the good work! :twothumbsup:
Thanks
As I keep getting closer and closer to finishing the body work. It dawns on me how expensive Miscellaneous things are for mopars. I'm going with the 70 cuda light because those looks the best next to the 72s and up just my (Opinion). I'm to see if I can save the roof or save up my pennies for a new :bricks:. 70 cuda housing and cost just as much as the a new tail light panel.
Did a little work on the cuda and finish putting a new T5 in my 69 stang. Then my friend came over and he want me to help him install Holley efi sniper on his 70 Buick skylark
Nice on all accounts.
Not that this is the forum for it but how did the T5 go? Contemplating one for a 64 Falcon I have.
Quote from: YellowThumper on May 06, 2018, 06:00:14 PM
Nice on all accounts.
Not that this is the forum for it but how did the T5 go? Contemplating one for a 64 Falcon I have.
Thanks. It wasn't hard to do since the fox body driver train is exactly the same as the 69 fit wise. The only hard part I had is I had no lift all jackstand and Jack. A lift would have made life easier
Another update on the cuda. The quarter panel patch basically done just probably need to weld little bit more ,grind down the welds and then some mud. Other than that it's done. The body work finish line is getting closer and closer. The holes u see in the patch panel is me still deciding if I want side marker lights.
Nice work! :bravo:
Thanks. I need some help on identifying this differential if it has a suregrip.
Quote from: usraptor on May 09, 2018, 04:40:07 PM
Nice work! :bravo:
Your detail pics is going to help replace the tail light panel.
You have pictures of two 8.75 3rd members, one 741 case & one 489 case, non-Sure Grip probably a 3.23 by the width of the ring gear.. Possibly 3.55... If they are Chrysler gears the ratio will be stamped into the ring gear..
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on May 09, 2018, 06:00:22 PM
You have pictures of two 8.75 3rd members, one 741 case & one 489 case, non-Sure Grip probably a 3.23 by the width of the ring gear.. Possibly 3.55... If they are Chrysler gears the ratio will be stamped into the ring gear..
Thanks for the help. Guess the seller didnt know since they came with the car when I bought it and he said it was a suregrip. Oh well
I'm in the progress of replacing my tail light panel is there tips or tricks on doing it?
making progress!! :clapping:
I got the tail light panel out today and the air hammer made the job easy. I'm going to have to start refreshing things up because everything that has a mopar logo on cost a Fortune. I also did a a little test but I have a question is it best to weld the corner brace on first or after I spot weld in the tail light panel
I'm test fitting the tail light panel and I'm kinda lost. I know the tail light panel welds in from the bottom of the trunk floor and at the corner. What about the side of the tail light panel does that get welded or just seam seal? If someone has a pic of there tail light panel install it would help.
Finally got the tail light panel in with the help of a friend yesterday all was well until somehow a piece of metal go into my left eye later in the day. Went to the emergency room at 12am and got the piece of metal out at about 3am man my eye was burning. It feels alot better this morning just tears running out now. I need some help with welding in the tail light panel brace. I know it goes thru the quarter panel but does it weld too the back part of the trunk drop flange which I have Mark with the blue arrow and then it welds from the out side?
I'm not sure these will give you the detail you need, but these are the pics of when my body man installed them. However, he filled over the welds with fiberglass body sealer to smooth out the welds. Pics aren't in any particular order.
Thanks for the reply it helped a bit but still can't see if the trunk drop off panel gets weld first then the quarter panel to the brace
I will check and see if I have some photos of that location when I get home...
Quote from: Cuda Cody on May 21, 2018, 09:18:21 AM
I will check and see if I have some photos of that location when I get home...
ok cool thanks
I got my rear valance bolt kit and need some help on finding out where they go. Is there any manual online I can use.
Little update on the cuda. I got the driver side quarter panel fully welded in and the corner brace. Things are coming along well :banana:
:popcorn: :veryexcited:
Thanks. Any bondo recommendation?
Evercoat rage gold, Good stuff. :wrenching:
Quote from: JS29 on June 01, 2018, 06:44:09 AM
Evercoat rage gold, Good stuff. :wrenching:
Thanks
Hey guys I got a quick question how do u remove the drip rail? I'm currently working on a patch panel for the driver side on corner section of the roof
I'm looking at loose drip rails for my 73 Challenger now, there is screw holes all over and the screws are proberly covered by the rubber seal on yours.
* Added a picture of the driprail without the rubber seal.
Quote from: soundcontrol on June 06, 2018, 12:14:11 PM
I'm looking at loose drip rails for my 73 Challenger now, there is screw holes all over and the screws are proberly covered by the rubber seal on yours.
Thanks I'll check it out when I get home
It's been a heck of a restoration project with some great welding skills it is seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. :lookatthat: :clapping:
Quote from: CudaMoparRay on June 06, 2018, 01:02:38 PM
It's been a heck of a restoration project with some great welding skills it is seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. :lookatthat: :clapping:
Thanks it's been a while but I'm getting back in the groove of things again.
@soundscontrol Thanks for the pic that is it. I got the trim off today. I also made me some frame roller if that's what u want to call it. It just bolts to the frame where the bumpers bolt too.
Cool, you getting things done! I'm getting back to my project soon.
I finish building my little frame roller stands. Now I can roll her in and out of the garage.
I finished the corner roof patch. It took 3 pieces of metal to make it but it came out good.
Another update on the cuda. I'm fixing the sunroof patch it's going to take some time to get it right but the labor is free.
Very impressed with your fabrication and welding skills. Hats off to you. :clapping: :worship: It's going to be really nice when you're done. :bigthumb:
I admire/applaud your efforts on the roof but I have to wonder if at that point going to a new AMD roof would be a better option? I'd be worried after all your efforts you have a " oil canning" issue down the road when it's much harder/expensive to make right? Big flat panels such as roof's , hood, and trunks I would not attempt to weld in patches. But I'm no expert in body work either. :D
Quote from: Brads70 on June 13, 2018, 04:33:13 PM
I admire/applaud your efforts on the roof but I have to wonder if at that point going to a new AMD roof would be a better option? I'd be worried after all your efforts you have a " oil canning" issue down the road when it's much harder/expensive to make right? Big flat panels such as roof's , hood, and trunks I would not attempt to weld in patches. But I'm no expert in body work either. :D
Thanks. There is truth to what youre saying and since this is somewhat of a budget build
I found better use for the 500 plus dollars needed for a new roof. Trick the I did was I used thicker metal in the metal for support and I was even thinking putting a brace on under side of the roof to keep it ridgett.
Picked up my 5.7 hemi today it was for 500 so I couldn't pass on it. I'll change all the gasket and clean it up.
Planning on keeping the truck accessories and intake on it?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on June 14, 2018, 05:44:57 PM
Planning on keeping the truck accessories and intake on it?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For right now unless there is a better option. I see u have a T56 magnum in yours is that the only manual tranny that will work?
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 15, 2018, 09:09:56 AM
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on June 14, 2018, 05:44:57 PM
Planning on keeping the truck accessories and intake on it?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For right now unless there is a better option. I see u have a T56 magnum in yours is that the only manual tranny that will work?
Anything from a factory 4spd to a magnum will work. Some assembly required.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on June 15, 2018, 10:08:38 AM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 15, 2018, 09:09:56 AM
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on June 14, 2018, 05:44:57 PM
Planning on keeping the truck accessories and intake on it?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For right now unless there is a better option. I see u have a T56 magnum in yours is that the only manual tranny that will work?
Anything from a factory 4spd to a magnum will work. Some assembly required.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With the 4 speed gas mileage wont be that good but the magnum cost an arm and a leg. Do u reccomend running the truck accessory?
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 15, 2018, 03:03:44 PM
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on June 15, 2018, 10:08:38 AM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 15, 2018, 09:09:56 AM
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on June 14, 2018, 05:44:57 PM
Planning on keeping the truck accessories and intake on it?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For right now unless there is a better option. I see u have a T56 magnum in yours is that the only manual tranny that will work?
Anything from a factory 4spd to a magnum will work. Some assembly required.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With the 4 speed gas mileage wont be that good but the magnum cost an arm and a leg. Do u reccomend running the truck accessory?
I run the car stuff because I feel it looks better aesthetically. Unfortunately everything on the timing cover would have to be swapped, alt, ac, water pump, etc.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you're doing a metal patch the basic rule is:
Anything over a Nickel thickness of body filler and the panel either needs re work or replaced. :alan2cents:
Quote from: Topcat on June 15, 2018, 06:58:55 PM
If you're doing a metal patch the basic rule is:
Anything over a Nickel thickness of body filler and the panel either needs re work or replaced. :alan2cents:
Very true but I wont be using that much bondo.
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on June 15, 2018, 05:59:15 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 15, 2018, 03:03:44 PM
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on June 15, 2018, 10:08:38 AM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 15, 2018, 09:09:56 AM
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on June 14, 2018, 05:44:57 PM
Planning on keeping the truck accessories and intake on it?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For right now unless there is a better option. I see u have a T56 magnum in yours is that the only manual tranny that will work?
Anything from a factory 4spd to a magnum will work. Some assembly required.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With the 4 speed gas mileage wont be that good but the magnum cost an arm and a leg. Do u reccomend running the truck accessory?
I run the car stuff because I feel it looks better aesthetically. Unfortunately everything on the timing cover would have to be swapped, alt, ac, water pump, etc.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info. Some of those stuff I got to replace to anyways I'll just order the car version.
Looks good, thx for the update, l'll be following along for the hemi install
Quote from: Katfish on June 16, 2018, 05:16:07 AM
Looks good, thx for the update, l'll be following along for the hemi install
Thanks and no problem
Went to a car show not too far from my house and it's for a new restoration shop. They had nice turnout
Nice! I'm in Warrenton. Where is this shop?
Quote from: larry4406 on June 16, 2018, 04:37:51 PM
Nice! I'm in Warrenton. Where is this shop?
oh cool and it's in Manassas on Euclid.
I'm tearing down the hemi along with labeling the harness which I recommend doing to help you understand what and where the sensor's go. I also had 2 exhaust manifold bolts that broke off in the cylinder head.I got 1 out and 1 is still stuck in the cylinder head. My extractor drill bit broke off into the bolt I was trying to get out smh. I'm going to label the harness better
I got a question has anybody put a 5.7 hemi with qa1 member. I was just wondering if u have to change to oil pan and could u use some headers like this https://m.ebay.com/itm/For-Chrysler-300C-Dodge-Charger-Magnum-Challenger-5-7-6-1L-Stainless-Long-Header-/272608035491 1000 dollars for some headers is ridiculous.
Looks like a good turn out for the show. :veryexcited:
I know you're on a budget, but I think a new roof skin would have been the way to go. It's a hard piece to weld in that area and it's super easy to see mistake when the sun hits it and makes it hot. The metal moves when it's warm and will ghost some of the metal work. :alan2cents: But I understand you're on a budget so I might have done the same thing in your position. :popcorn:
I agree with CODY.
But if you went with a vinyl top, that'll hide any band aiding effect in the heat.
I Appreciate the advice on the roof repair. My goal is to have this running,driving and painted no later than next year. I might replace the roof but it wont be anytime soon depends on how well my repair goes. I'm copying this guy idea which seem like a nice repair I would just use a lot less bondo.https://youtu.be/MOXeMvH38xM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 18, 2018, 01:55:08 PM
I got a question has anybody put a 5.7 hemi with qa1 member. I was just wondering if u have to change to oil pan and could u use some headers like this https://m.ebay.com/itm/For-Chrysler-300C-Dodge-Charger-Magnum-Challenger-5-7-6-1L-Stainless-Long-Header-/272608035491 1000 dollars for some headers is ridiculous.
High quality headers are always worth the investment. I'm not sure I'd put $100 ebay headers on my riding mower. Thin flanges, poor coating, poorly fixtured, etc. :alan2cents:
I've bought many sets of headers and have never been more impressed than with my TTIs, but it took me a few sets to understand what poor quality headers are like.
If you're budget-concious, I'd start to question why you need a ~$700 QA1 crossmember...
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on June 19, 2018, 04:14:13 AM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 18, 2018, 01:55:08 PM
I got a question has anybody put a 5.7 hemi with qa1 member. I was just wondering if u have to change to oil pan and could u use some headers like this https://m.ebay.com/itm/For-Chrysler-300C-Dodge-Charger-Magnum-Challenger-5-7-6-1L-Stainless-Long-Header-/272608035491 1000 dollars for some headers is ridiculous.
High quality headers are always worth the investment. I'm not sure I'd put $100 ebay headers on my riding mower. Thin flanges, poor coating, poorly fixtured, etc. :alan2cents:
I've bought many sets of headers and have never been more impressed than with my TTIs, but it took me a few sets to understand what poor quality headers are like.
If you're budget-concious, I'd start to question why you need a ~$700 QA1 crossmember...
I got the qa1 k-member due it saying you could run different types of headers and more room for the oil pan since I knew I was going to be doing a gen 3 hemi swap. Plus I would be mad to pay 700 for a k member and the qa1 k-member are 560 with free shipping. I only dish out 200 plus for it since I sold my old k member. There's a lot of deals and sales out there if u keep looking . I just want to find the most average Joe way of doing this swap since I know a lot of people want to do it but dont want to dash out that much cash like me. So if I got to fab stuff up to make it work I will. Its like doing the coyote swap on vintage stang without cutting out the shock towers completely out.
Today I went to the junkyard to get my gas pedal and fuse box which I got out of a 2007 dodge ram 2500 for 90 bucks. Since the wiring is not so good in my car I'm going to modify the fuse box i got out of the ram to run everything in the cuda plus rewire the car. My wiring skills are ok but if anybody wants to go down this path I will label every wire/relay needed for the hemi swap with a lot of pics.
One thing I like about wiring my own car is i know what every wire does and go to like in my mustang. Anybody a good wiring diagram for the cuda? . Im going to make my own bracket for the gas pedal
Doing something similar with mine. I jy shopped and am using a trunk mounted power block from a Lincoln. In my trunk also. All new will be thru this. More and more original will just end up in used. Also found a firewall rubber plug from a Dodge van that almost perfectly snaps into the old heater motor hole. All my added FI wiring will pass thru it.
Cool and do u know what year van firewall plug. I never thought of putting the fuse/relay box in my trunk that's a good idea. Thanks for sharing
Update on the cuda. I got my bracket for the rear disc brake where u can bolt on 05-14 mustang caliber. I had to change my fuse/relay box which is from 99-04 jeep grand cherokee since the new dodge/Chrysler use a electronic fuse/relay box which is computer control. I'm going thru the harness now and separating the wires that are needed from the ones that are not. I'm starting with the orange connector.
Haven't seen that rear disc set-up, got a link with details?
Yea it's a guy on YouTube that made them and he also makes them for the front also.This video was just the prototype https://youtu.be/kq1RXylrtZQ check out his Facebook page Invincible extremes
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 21, 2018, 03:57:43 AM
Cool and do u know what year van firewall plug. I never thought of putting the fuse/relay box in my trunk that's a good idea. Thanks for sharing
Not specific year. But to take a stab I would say late 80s to 90s van.
So close that 3 out of the 4 snap clips it has works to existing firewall hole. remaining one i used a thin plate of aluminum attached using the previous heater/motor screw holes.
My final plan will be to use Vintage Air setup with the hoses routed inside the fender wells. Not for aesthetics but for turbo room...
Here are some pics.
Will post follow up with more pics
More.
After wiring was installed i sealed harness off with non adhesive electrical tape. Silicone i believe and it stretches tight and seems to hold well.
Finished off with split mesh sleeve that I was also smart enough ahead of time to slip shrink tubing over.
Mike.
Looks good keep up the good work. I'm still going thru the harness along with paint and bodywork.
Another update on the cuda. This is the part of the body work I hate blocking and sanding but its key to the final finish. Its brings back memories when I did my 67 mustang coupe years ago. I also got my rotors for the rear. In order for them to fit u will have to grinding the rotor, hub bore on a ford is 70.5mm and dodge is 71.5mm.
I got my rear calipers today and install them. They don't look bad but I'll have to change bracket so the caliper will be facing forward instead of how it is now.
The rotors where you ground out the bore - I thought the rotors were-hub centric to ensure concentricity with the axle. It looks like you have lost this.
Am I missing something?
Quote from: larry4406 on July 01, 2018, 05:08:29 AM
The rotors where you ground out the bore - I thought the rotors were-hub centric to ensure concentricity with the axle. It looks like you have lost this.
Am I missing something?
That is correct I was suppose to only grind the out the center of the rotor not the hub bore but it still fit fine. I need to use a sanding drum or drill grinding cone for the rotor. There are plenty of other average Joe running the same setup as mine that dont want to spend a ridiculous amount of money for the same setup. I already know most wouldn't agree with it.
These are some good looking rear ends
Quote from: larry4406 on July 01, 2018, 05:08:29 AM
The rotors where you ground out the bore - I thought the rotors were-hub centric to ensure concentricity with the axle. It looks like you have lost this.
Am I missing something?
:iagree:
Cuda70-74 You could use a lathe. If you get a vibration this would be the first place I'd look.
Quote from: Brads70 on July 01, 2018, 09:52:31 AM
Quote from: larry4406 on July 01, 2018, 05:08:29 AM
The rotors where you ground out the bore - I thought the rotors were-hub centric to ensure concentricity with the axle. It looks like you have lost this.
Am I missing something?
:iagree:
Cuda70-74 You could use a lathe. If you get a vibration this would be the first place I'd look.
Thanks for the input. Hopefully by the end of the summer I can get it running at least.
You sure are putting in the hard hours to make it work! :bravo:
Quote from: Brads70 on July 01, 2018, 11:05:59 AM
You sure are putting in the hard hours to make it work! :bravo:
Yes indeed
Body work almost about done. Getting ready to shoot Epoxy Primer. I want to get the engine bay and front end of the car done so I can assemble the front end.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on July 01, 2018, 09:47:49 AM
These are some good looking rear ends
Couldn't agree more! Two of the best to come out of the '70s :twothumbsup:
Sprayed some expoxy primer today.I guess not bad for someone that hasn't painted a car in years. Got one area with some runs and missed a small area but still not a bad job. I'l fix those area it it again
Nice process, looking good
Quote from: Katfish on July 11, 2018, 07:09:38 PM
Nice process, looking good
Thanks. I'm just wondering how do u get paint in the fender braces?
Nice progress. What epoxy you spraying?
Eastwood epoxy primer it comes in black,white and grey https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-gray-epoxy-primers.html
Gen 3 hemi swaps are becoming popular now alot of car at the show had them. The paint job on the demon was 17k it was nice
Went to buy a dent puller so I could fix the dents in the roof and the fender I dropped.The is from harbor freight and it works pretty good.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on July 11, 2018, 07:36:19 PM
Thanks. I'm just wondering how do u get paint in the fender braces?
I painted mine on the inside before I welded them in, I just need to get some on the back of the welds now.
You can always use Eastwoods Internal Frame coating, works well inside stuff you can't reach with a regular spray gun.
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 16, 2018, 02:46:08 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on July 11, 2018, 07:36:19 PM
Thanks. I'm just wondering how do u get paint in the fender braces?
I painted mine on the inside before I welded them in, I just need to get some on the back of the welds now.
You can always use Eastwoods Internal Frame coating, works well inside stuff you can't reach with a regular spray gun.
Thanks I'm going to try that
Well I found a car intake manifold for a 100 buckets off craigslist which I'm going to install. If youre going to install a car intake manifold on a truck engine be advise your going to have to change the timing also plus reroute the map sensor wires. I'll update if there is anything u will have change. I also took the cylinder heads off alot of carbon build. I'm going to clean the top of cylinder heads and send the heads of to a machine shop.
The last piece of sheet metal that needs to be replaced came in today. I also took out the rear floor pan and the timing cover suppose no slipping in the timing change.
Great progress!
Intake looks nice, I'm following along. Really curious what all the differences are between the truck and car Gen3 motors.
Quote from: Katfish on July 19, 2018, 02:57:08 AM
Great progress!
Intake looks nice, I'm following along. Really curious what all the differences are between the truck and car Gen3 motors.
Thanks. The truck motor has 5 more hp bring it up 345 hp compared to the car 340 hp. The manifold and timing cover are also different. I would think the internals on a truck would be stronger. One thing also about the early 5.7 hemi they were known to drop vavles. The wiring for the map sensor is also longer for car compare to the short truck one. As I dig in more into I will find out more and tell more
Almost done sanding the whole body. Just got to do the inside of the car and undercarriage. A good way of getting rid of rust without sanding is with water and vinegar it's cheap. All u got to do is mix 60% vinegar with 40% water.
Great job! What a transformation from when you started. :clapping:
Quote from: usraptor on July 22, 2018, 07:27:34 AM
Great job! What a transformation from when you started. :clapping:
Thanks. Yes it has been
Well I'm done with trying to remove glass from cars I just keep breaking them. Broke my rear windshield trying to get it out another expensive I didn't want smh :pullinghair:. Hope at Carlisle 2019 I can find the front and rear windshield for a good price. I got my 71 headlight bucket and car timing cover today for the 5.7. The 71 headlight buckets were expansive but i blame this expense on the movie phastasm that made me want a 71 cuda.
A little update got most of the car sanded down to bare metal just the quarter panels and underneath the body of the car left. I was almost done with putting in my rear floor pan and my welder just stop working it wont turn on. Good thing it's still under warranty tho. It's a hobart 210 mig welder
Another update. I got most of the body sanded to bare metal just got to finish the undercarriage. When I was sanding down the reproduction quarter panel there was rust underneath it. Has anybody had that happen to them before?
Thanks Mike Ketterer I really appreciate the helping hand. The part came in today
Got spectra efi tank today. I cant do much since my welder is out of service. 268 at rockauto shipped that included the 5% saved
You'll be happy with the Spectra EFI tank. I have 1 in my Challenger and it is working great.
I will say the sending unit is a little on the pessimistic side.
It reads empty when there's still 4 gallons in it. But I'm ok with that, would be worse if I ran out of gas before the gauge reads empty.
Quote from: Katfish on August 08, 2018, 05:57:33 PM
You'll be happy with the Spectra EFI tank. I have 1 in my Challenger and it is working great.
I will say the sending unit is a little on the pessimistic side.
It reads empty when there's still 4 gallons in it. But I'm ok with that, would be worse if I ran out of gas before the gauge reads empty.
Very true. I also have one in my 69 mustang
Got a quick question. What most of you guys/gals use to cover up the lower quarter panel part that goes over the rocker panel? I was thinking bondo
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 13, 2018, 09:59:46 AM
Got a quick question. What most of you guys/gals use to cover up the lower quarter panel part that goes over the rocker panel? I was thinking bondo
Thats one of the areas where I was thinking about using lead, but I have not welded my quarters yet.
Oh ok where would u even get the lead from
:wrenching: Eastwood sells the lead kit with paddles and tinning butter.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 14, 2018, 07:40:03 AM
Oh ok where would u even get the lead from
I bought a kit with everything needed here (Sweden), have not used it yet, but a friend did, and he got very good results with it.
Here's a good video, looks pretty easy, but I'm sure its harder than it looks...
https://youtu.be/BzGZZJZSZ9Y
Thanks
A pencil tip torch tip on a propane 1 qt. canister will be easiest to work and learn with.
Quote from: Topcat on August 15, 2018, 06:45:18 PM
A pencil tip torch tip on a propane 1 qt. canister will be easiest to work and learn with.
Thanks for the tip
A friend of mines let me borrow his welder Its a craftsman Flux core welder. Back to finishing up my body work. I finish installing the side marker patches that i got.
Was at the woodward crusie in Detroit MI and all i can say is wow so many cars of all make,models and years. I was mainly in the car show couldn't really take any pics just lots of videos. Here is a pic of a 70 cuda the owner has owned for 40 plus year's
A little update on my cuda. I got my welder back from the shop so i can finish my body work. I finish welding in the floor pan and one sider marker patch.
Nice work! :bravo:
Thanks. The weather been crap for the past 2 weeks over on the east coast.
I like that you make a little progress whenever you have time. Keep up the work and you'll be done before you know it. :banana:
Thanks
Im just curious on doing the hemi swap with a qa1 k-member do i still need to change the oil pan to a Milodon 31000 oil pan?
Quick question can you use your stock oil pan screws on the milodon pan 31000 oil pan?
You should be able to. Do yours not fit?
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on December 19, 2018, 05:03:26 PM
Quick question can you use your stock oil pan screws on the milodon pan 31000 oil pan?
Quote from: Cuda Cody on December 19, 2018, 05:30:35 PM
You should be able to. Do yours not fit?
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on December 19, 2018, 05:03:26 PM
Quick question can you use your stock oil pan screws on the milodon pan 31000 oil pan?
It does fit. I just saw that milodon had there own bolts for sale. Thought there might be some fitment issues
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on December 19, 2018, 05:03:26 PM
Quick question can you use your stock oil pan screws on the milodon pan 31000 oil pan?
I think the length is different, I was recommended to change them.
Edit: Just read about it again, yes, the factory ones are too long, they can bottom out in some holes and not seal the Milodon pan properly.
https://moparskunkwerks.wordpress.com/2012/12/06/fitting-the-pan/
We used #85025 short bolts for the pan as stock are too long.
Thanks for the responses
Got my rims and tires in today
Different look , Congrats :twothumbsup:
Nice!
I run Sumitomo's too, about the best bang for the buck tires I've found.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 13, 2018, 09:59:46 AM
Got a quick question. What most of you guys/gals use to cover up the lower quarter panel part that goes over the rocker panel? I was thinking bondo
It looks like u used skins by this picture. There is something like 3/4" short. if u look at this whole quarter pic you will see what I mean. I had to add to my skins there it will make that gap almost flush with rocket
Quote from: A.Gramz on February 16, 2019, 08:22:23 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 13, 2018, 09:59:46 AM
Got a quick question. What most of you guys/gals use to cover up the lower quarter panel part that goes over the rocker panel? I was thinking bondo
It looks like u used skins by this picture. There is something like 3/4" short. if u look at this whole quarter pic you will see what I mean. I had to add to my skins there it will make that gap almost flush with rocket
Seems to be a difference in brands of skins, the first picture, my Goodmark skin, is short. The second is my AMD skin, it has the extra length there.
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on February 15, 2019, 09:05:41 PM
Different look , Congrats :twothumbsup:
Thanks. Just my opinion mopars didnt offer alot of appealing wheels
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 17, 2019, 07:29:52 AM
Quote from: A.Gramz on February 16, 2019, 08:22:23 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 13, 2018, 09:59:46 AM
Got a quick question. What most of you guys/gals use to cover up the lower quarter panel part that goes over the rocker panel? I was thinking bondo
It looks like u used skins by this picture. There is something like 3/4" short. if u look at this whole quarter pic you will see what I mean. I had to add to my skins there it will make that gap almost flush with rocket
Seems to be a difference in brands of skins, the first picture, my Goodmark skin, is short. The second is my AMD skin, it has the extra length there.
Yes i did use a goodmark skin
Hey all well yall made me do it lol. Im just going to replace the roof on the cuda and just do it right. Im hating old school muscle cars because i might be getting a 68 charger smh that will be 3 project smh.
Well today was somewhat warm 40 degrees. So I decided to take the roof which wasn't a hard time just time consuming due to all the spot wells.
You made a wise decision replacing the roof.
Quote from: Topcat on March 09, 2019, 05:38:41 PM
You made a wise decision replacing the roof.
yes it and you guys were right
Another update on the cuda. Since im still waiting on the roof skin for the cuda. I patch the worst part of the on the inner structure.
Quick update Roof was on back order. So i decided to change the tail light panel on my 69 stang still working on it.
Whats up everybody my 68 charger came today project # 3. I was just wondering what a 383 engine and auto tranny is worth?
Cool 68 project , seems you like to keep busy !!
the 383 is really the least desirable big block even as a stroker the 400 block is a better starting point , the auto trans is worth a few $$ as the big block autos are getting harder to find but condition will dictate value , if it is original it will need to be built for sure .
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 01, 2019, 10:27:12 PM
Cool 68 project , seems you like to keep busy !!
the 383 is really the least desirable big block even as a stroker the 400 block is a better starting point , the auto trans is worth a few $$ as the big block autos are getting harder to find but condition will dictate value , if it is original it will need to be built for sure .
lol yes i do and thanks. The car haven't ran since 92 and the carb is missing.
Well i finally got my roof skin which is going to be a project on its own. I was just wondering does if those metal pin that was on my old roof are they needed on the new roof.
Do you mean the pins that hold the trim clips on?
You may or may not be aware of this but do not use panel bond on the center brace (for the dome light) to hold it tight to the new roof skin. Just use a small bead of 3M urethane seam sealer. When the panel bond fully cures, it pulls the metal tight.....and leaves a nice mark across your new roof skin. Ask me how I know. Lol
Quote from: YellowThumper on April 09, 2019, 06:42:25 PM
Do you mean the pins that hold the trim clips on?
Yes those pins that seat on the front and back of the roof
Quote from: 6Pack70 on April 09, 2019, 07:37:13 PM
You may or may not be aware of this but do not use panel bond on the center brace (for the dome light) to hold it tight to the new roof skin. Just use a small bead of 3M urethane seam sealer. When the panel bond fully cures, it pulls the metal tight.....and leaves a nice mark across your new roof skin. Ask me how I know. Lol
Thanks for the heads up idk that. I will be looking for 3M urethane seam sealer.
The roof is on :banana:. The only problem now is the front of the roof line is longer. I was going to cut it but i didnt know if it would effect the fit of the front windshield. Since i broke mine taking it out. I dont have one to test fit so im going to have to order a new front windshield
3 projects= you are very motivated in life or just plain nuts.
Keep us updated. Looking good. Glad to see you back out it :bradsthumb:
Quote from: nsmall on April 19, 2019, 09:35:21 PM
3 projects= you are very motivated in life or just plain nuts.
Keep us updated. Looking good. Glad to see you back out it :bradsthumb:
lol its a mixture of both and thanks for the encouragement. Charger coming along well 2.
Finally got the charger on all 4 to push it forward so the cuda could come out. I got rid of all the seam sealer in the car now. Im wondering what type of seam sealer do you guy recommend me to getting?? Im planning sprayed expoxy primer next week.
Painted the cuda today in eastwood grey expoxy primer. Came out pretty nice.
:twothumbsup: :popcorn:
looking good :twothumbsup:
Thanks
Getting them into the first coat of primer is a huge step and feels great.
Paint the cuda with Eastwood black 2k primer
You have to be getting pretty excited now! It's looking great. :clapping:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on July 27, 2019, 07:34:42 PM
You have to be getting pretty excited now! It's looking great. :clapping:
Yes indeed I am and Thanks.
Man, you really got on it and made some quick progress. Keep on it.
Quote from: nsmall on July 28, 2019, 03:12:20 PM
Man, you really got on it and made some quick progress. Keep on it.
Thanks and I will
I will be painting the cuda next week. The Woodward crusie is this weekend in Detroit Michigan and ill be attending it.
Impressive progress!
Finally paint. There are some flaw like my shirt touch the car when i spraying the clear coat. I also lost daylight when i was spraying the 2nd coat of clear.Its still going to look good even with its flaws.
Wait a day or so, carefully wet sand it. if you break thru it should blend easily, then give it another shot of clear. when you clear over clear, it flows out like glass! :perfect10: I give it two coats over the blends. :alan2cents:
Quote from: JS29 on August 20, 2019, 05:40:42 AM
Wait a day or so, carefully wet sand it. if you break thru it should blend easily, then give it another shot of clear. when you clear over clear, it flows out like glass! :perfect10: I give it two coats over the blends. :alan2cents:
Thanks for the advice
.
Really looks nice for spraying out in the open!
Weather here has been awful lately with the humidity and temperatures.
Dang, you are really flying now. It seems like you went from walking to sprinting on this restoration. :bradsthumb:
Quote from: larry4406 on August 20, 2019, 02:29:14 PM
Really looks nice for spraying out in the open!
Weather here has been awful lately with the humidity and temperatures.
Thanks
Quote from: nsmall on August 20, 2019, 10:26:18 PM
Dang, you are really flying now. It seems like you went from walking to sprinting on this restoration. :bradsthumb:
It does seem that way. It has been a long journey with this car. Now the fun part begins putting here back together
Hi need some help finding this bolt for the front shock. Its the bolt that goes thru the shock and lower control arm. I was wondering if I could just go use a grade 8 bolt from the hardware store?
Another one of those many opportunities to spend money on your car:
https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/front-shock-lower-bolts-and-nuts-70-74-b_e-body/
Quote from: Dakota on August 24, 2019, 02:23:09 AM
Another one of those many opportunities to spend money on your car:
https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/front-shock-lower-bolts-and-nuts-70-74-b_e-body/
Thanks
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 23, 2019, 08:40:41 PM
Hi need some help finding this bolt for the front shock. Its the bolt that goes thru the shock and lower control arm. I was wondering if I could just go use a grade 8 bolt from the hardware store?
That's what I did with my rear shocks since the stock bolts wouldn't work since I used my old school traction bars for that period look. I haven't had any issues with the bolts after several burnouts and power shifts. BTW, you can't beat a black 'Cuda. Ask me how I know. :D :banana:
Quote from: usraptor on August 27, 2019, 03:29:30 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 23, 2019, 08:40:41 PM
Hi need some help finding this bolt for the front shock. Its the bolt that goes thru the shock and lower control arm. I was wondering if I could just go use a grade 8 bolt from the hardware store?
That's what I did with my rear shocks since the stock bolts wouldn't work since I used my old school traction bars for that period look. I haven't had any issues with the bolts after several burnouts and power shifts. BTW, you can't beat a black 'Cuda. Ask me how I know. :D :banana:
Cool and thanks. Nothing wrong with a black cuda
Hi can anybody recommend where I can get some longer wheel studs for the axle? With the rear disc on the wheel stud dont really go thru wheels so you cant bolt them up.
Got more done on the car today. Paint corroseal on the undercarriage where the gas tank goes and install gas tank. Also finished up putting the front brakes together and on. I do need some help on installing the torsion bars and some question about it. Like does it matter what end of the torsion bar goes i do know they are side specific and how does the insulator get install for the torsion bar. They are the red rubber things in the pic
Torsion bars are Left or Right, there is no front or back.
As long as you keep the L/R correct, you're good.
Quote from: Katfish on September 01, 2019, 06:02:38 AM
Torsion bars are Left or Right, there is no front or back.
As long as you keep the L/R correct, you're good.
Thanks I just finished installing them yesterday.
I got another issue with the front calipers. When i screw in the front brake hose it seem like its not long enough to reach the tab on the frame where it hooks up to the brake line.
Can't tell from pic, but hose should bolt to top and rear of caliper and route back under the spindle bolt.
Good info & pics here
https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/brakes/disc-main.html
Just a FYI...the torsion bars your using are slant 6 - 318 parts, depending on what engine you choose might be a little light. Also the paint marks you applied should be orange to be correct for those specific bars not aluminum color. I know your not going for OEM correctness but just thought I'd throw in this information.
Quote from: Katfish on September 01, 2019, 06:31:51 AM
Good info & pics here
https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/brakes/disc-main.html
Thanks i had the calipers on the wrong side.
Quote from: 76orangewagon on September 01, 2019, 06:44:39 AM
Just a FYI...the torsion bars your using are slant 6 - 318 parts, depending on what engine you choose might be a little light. Also the paint marks you applied should be orange to be correct for those specific bars not aluminum color. I know your not going for OEM correctness but just thought I'd throw in this information.
Thanks it original had a 318 but i bought it as a shell. Im putting the 5.7 hemi in so I guess im going to have upgrade the torsion bar. Anothet expense
Getting the fenders,hood,valances,trunk lid ready for paint. The doors will be last due to them need the most work and heavy as hell
Was at hot rod drag week today. It was on the east coast this year.
Got my 70 dollars steering coupler rebuild kit and painted the interior with corroseal
Never hrd of corroseal, what's the advantage?
Quote from: Katfish on September 20, 2019, 06:00:36 PM
Never hrd of corroseal, what's the advantage?
Its better than por15. Just brush 2 coats on and watch it eat the rust away. They use this stuff in the ship yard
Today I paint the hood,trunk,front valance, rear valance and fenders with 2k primer
Painted one side of the hood and trunk lid. Finished painting the fenders,front and rear valance. Found out the one used rear tail light cover doesn't fit it bent smh. Going to start working on the doors and get them ready for paint before it gets too cold outside
Looking good, maybe I missed it, what your paint booth look like?
Quote from: Katfish on October 05, 2019, 04:25:42 AM
Looking good, maybe I missed it, what your paint booth look like?
Lol u didnt miss it. The great out doors is my paint booth
Today i was installing the rear taillights bezel and found out the the driver side bezel is bent up out of shape and doesnt seat flushed. I was just wondering is it repairable or do i need just buy one of those expensive used one??
Im installing my steering column and im just wondering is the coupler parts suppose to be further down on the steering box.
Yes, the valley in front of were your coupler is at now, is were the roll pin belongs. :alan2cents:
Quote from: JS29 on October 08, 2019, 10:14:33 AM
Yes, the valley in front of were your coupler is at now, is were the roll pin belongs. :alan2cents:
Thanks. Do I need to hit so it go down further??
Tap it lightly, use a block of wood and center it better. it looks a little crooked. :alan2cents:
Did the top come apart on you? They make an attachment that clips into the holes of the roll pin and clamps over the top. I FOUND THE ONE ON MY CAR ON e-bay.
Thanks again. Yes the kit did come with that clip you are talking about.
:cool:
Quote from: JS29 on October 08, 2019, 01:59:46 PM
Did the top come apart on you? They make an attachment that clips into the holes of the roll pin and clamps over the top. I FOUND THE ONE ON MY CAR ON e-bay.
Any tips for getting that on?
I bought 1 too and gave up.
Quote from: Katfish on October 08, 2019, 02:15:15 PM
Quote from: JS29 on October 08, 2019, 01:59:46 PM
Did the top come apart on you? They make an attachment that clips into the holes of the roll pin and clamps over the top. I FOUND THE ONE ON MY CAR ON e-bay.
Any tips for getting that on?
I bought 1 too and gave up.
Hope these pics help
Put on the drip rail trim and since i wasnt going to pay 45 bucks for the drip rail gasket. I bought some camper gasket from autozone and cut it to length and bam looks just like the original.
I can't remember if it's got a master spine, I think it dose. the roll pin is not doing anything were you have it now. Take it apart and check it out.
Quote from: JS29 on October 10, 2019, 01:21:17 PM
I can't remember if it's got a master spine, I think it dose. the roll pin is not doing anything were you have it now. Take it apart and check it out.
Thanks again ill take it apart this weekend
It's got a master spline. There is a slight V ground into the coupler, that is where the master spline is and it must line up with the master on the shaft.
Yes it is. Look for the v-groove on the coupler matching the master on the splined rod.
Now im starting on the doors.
Looking good, it's coming together.
Like every project, the small details will eat up most of your time.
Quote from: Katfish on October 12, 2019, 06:50:10 AM
Looking good, it's coming together.
Like every project, the small details will eat up most of your time.
Thanks and very true
So I took the coupler off and tried to see if it will fit over the steering box which it with some force from the hammer
That looks more like it. :bigthumb:
Quote from: JS29 on October 14, 2019, 06:18:48 AM
That looks more like it. :bigthumb:
I wonder if i can install the steering column with it on like this
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on October 14, 2019, 03:07:58 PM
Quote from: JS29 on October 14, 2019, 06:18:48 AM
That looks more like it. :bigthumb:
I wonder if i can install the steering column with it on like this
I imagine it's possible, but it's much easier to attach the column to the coupler first, IMHO, than try and put the small, greased up pieces, into the coupler with it installed on the steering box. Just my :alan2cents: having had my column in and out of my car several times.
I've done them that way, it's really no problem other than it's a bit tricky to get the little plate on there permanently.
I got the coupler back on with the steering column but i had to take off the coupler and reinstall it back onto the steering column then reinstall it. I also started sanding down the doors to bare metal so i can fix the old repair and dents.
:iagree: But if that had not been caught, the outcome could have been bad. I don't know about you, but I don't like surprises!
Quote from: JS29 on October 19, 2019, 05:36:44 AM
:iagree: But if that had not been caught, the outcome could have been bad. I don't know about you, but I don't like surprises!
I agree and really appreciate it :cheers:
I have a question on bolting up the 71 cuda headlight buckets. Do i need to drill a hole for this bracket to bolt in??
Today I installed the firewall insulation pad and made a support bracket for the drive by wire gas pedal. I still need to reinforce it and im using the factory gas pedal holes.
I started working on my doors by repairing the dents with my harbor freight stud welder dent repair kit. I also put in my rear window track and tried to find the gold paint but it seems alot darker.
I have a question about the stock gauges. Are they reliable and do they read accurately? Would like some feedback so ill know if i have to upgrade them.
I had redline gagues in SoCal rebuild mine. Not cheap. He told me to buy their stuff if I didnt have him restore my gauges...https://forum.e-bodies.org/interior/6/rallye-gauges-on-cuda/5439/
Lots of folks have had good luck with Dakota gauges.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/electrical-and-audio/11/dakota-digital-gauges-and-new-woodgrain-decal-questions/3300/
https://forum.e-bodies.org/interior/6/dakota-digital-gauges/5553/
https://forum.e-bodies.org/general-topics/7/stop-whatever-you-are-doing-call-dakota-digital/5805/
Here is a non dakota and non-oem idea...
https://forum.e-bodies.org/interior/6/gauge-question-with-pics/4536/msg64877#msg64877
Quote from: nsmall on October 24, 2019, 07:45:31 PM
I had redline gagues in SoCal rebuild mine. Not cheap. He told me to buy their stuff if I didnt have him restore my gauges...https://forum.e-bodies.org/interior/6/rallye-gauges-on-cuda/5439/
Lots of folks have had good luck with Dakota gauges.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/electrical-and-audio/11/dakota-digital-gauges-and-new-woodgrain-decal-questions/3300/
https://forum.e-bodies.org/interior/6/dakota-digital-gauges/5553/
https://forum.e-bodies.org/general-topics/7/stop-whatever-you-are-doing-call-dakota-digital/5805/
Here is a non dakota and non-oem idea...
https://forum.e-bodies.org/interior/6/gauge-question-with-pics/4536/msg64877#msg64877
Thanks for the links. I think im going to use the Autometer gauges like i did in my mustang. Its alot cheaper
Clean up the headlight bucket and painted them. Anybody know what grease should be use on the window regulator??
Synthetic grease dose not dry out! I think that is what break caliper grease is. :alan2cents:
Quote from: JS29 on October 25, 2019, 05:50:15 PM
Synthetic grease dose not dry out! I think that is what break caliper grease is. :alan2cents:
Thanks again. I owe u drink
Got my headlight in today but its been too cold to work on the car. Im also deciding on which side i want the halos to light up on.
So, are you using 4 identical bulbs with halo's or are you just using 2 halo's and 2 others? I've been trying to figure out what I want for my high beams to go with my LED outters on my Challenger. It's funny turning on the high beams and they're a dim yellow, compared with the bright white of the low beams.
Corey
Quote from: JpRngr on November 14, 2019, 09:59:14 PM
So, are you using 4 identical bulbs with halo's or are you just using 2 halo's and 2 others? I've been trying to figure out UPIwhat I want for my high beams to go with my LED outters on my Challenger. It's funny turning on the high beams and they're a dim yellow, compared with the bright white of the low beams. I think im going to go with all 4 halo housing but im only going to wire 2 halos up tho.
Corey
Little update. I installed my headlight but i had to modify the headlight retaining ring. I had to uninstall it and then use some expoxy where the spot welds were. I also got my kwik wiring harness(306$)and sound deadener. The American auto wire harness was way too expensive almost a (1000$ )
Today I installed noico sound deadener and started laying out my wiring harness out.
Today I made a bracket so I can mount my kwik wire fuse panel. I used the exitsing hole and drilled a hole thru the bracket I made. Im also wondering if anybody has a quater glass track slider mines broke apart and fell down into the quarter panel. Does anybody know what size gauges are in the dash?
Thanks to Diyhemi.com im starting to make my own stand alone harness for gen 3 hemi swap. Its looks like a mess but im still labeling the wiring harness
Quick question im rebuilding my heater box. Was just wondering does the fan need to be replaced. It seem to be in good condition??
Why replace something that ant broke! :alan2cents:
Quote from: JS29 on December 05, 2019, 06:13:49 AM
Why replace something that ant broke! :alan2cents:
Thats usually my motto.
My friend gave me a free 70 cuda driver door he had laying around for years. Since mines was hit in the reinforced it was pretty hard to repair. I also started rebuilding my heater blower box and waiting on my heater core. I also wanted to keep the factory markings so masked it off.
Finally installed my heater box that I rebuilt and found the correct longer wheel studs
Making good progress! :clapping: :popcorn:
Quick question has anybody on here installed this type of hydraulic clutch conversion??
https://www.ebay.com/itm/McLEOD-HYDRAULIC-CLUTCH-CONVERSION-MoPAR-A833-4-SPEED-23-SPLINE/130698288385?pageci=ebea8025-532b-447a-becf-6be9cb3d2254
I got my pistol grip shifter in today and didnt know they we're made out of gold. I got it for a pretty good deal 133 shipped.My question is my pistols grip handle only has one hole in the bottom of the handle compared to others I have seen some with 2 holes is that normal??
The one hole photoed is a 70 style, later ones have two holes and bolt onto the shifter box rather than slide in like the 1 hole does.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on February 03, 2020, 02:21:47 PM
The one hole photoed is a 70 style, later ones have two holes and bolt onto the shifter box rather than slide in like the 1 hole does.
Thanks. It will mount up to the shifter with no problems also??
Just read this thread (mostly complete) for the first time. It's like a good book, hard to put down.
Quote from: Mopsquad on February 03, 2020, 05:08:49 PM
Just read this thread (mostly complete) for the first time. It's like a good book, hard to put down.
Thanks appreciate it
Quick question. Im going to be using A a833 tranny in my gen 3 swap. I did read u can use any small block bellhousing. Does that include truck bellhousing?? I was just wondering if this would fit.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Truck-Mopar-Bell-Housing-Small-Block-P435-Trans-318-360-3893728/202868064245
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on February 11, 2020, 04:35:15 PM
Quick question. Im going to be using A a833 tranny in my gen 3 swap. I did read u can use any small block bellhousing. Does that include truck bellhousing?? I was just wondering if this would fit.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Truck-Mopar-Bell-Housing-Small-Block-P435-Trans-318-360-3893728/202868064245
Not 100% sure, different bolt patterns, but the inner bolt pattern might be the same as my inner. Here is the bell housing I got for my 73 project, 5.7 Hemi with a a833.
I don't have a flywheel or the clutch yet. Thinking about going hydraulic.
Probably not, looking at my tranny, its seems to use the 2 top holes.
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 12, 2020, 01:50:29 AM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on February 11, 2020, 04:35:15 PM
Quick question. Im going to be using A a833 tranny in my gen 3 swap. I did read u can use any small block bellhousing. Does that include truck bellhousing?? I was just wondering if this would fit.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Truck-Mopar-Bell-Housing-Small-Block-P435-Trans-318-360-3893728/202868064245
Not 100% sure, different bolt patterns, but the inner bolt pattern might be the same as my inner. Here is the bell housing I got for my 73 project, 5.7 Hemi with a a833.
I don't have a flywheel or the clutch yet. Thinking about going hydraulic.
Thanks. Do u have a part number off that bellhousing. Im also going with a hydraulic clutch setup. Im waiting on my a833 tranny
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on February 12, 2020, 05:59:10 AM
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 12, 2020, 01:50:29 AM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on February 11, 2020, 04:35:15 PM
Quick question. Im going to be using A a833 tranny in my gen 3 swap. I did read u can use any small block bellhousing. Does that include truck bellhousing?? I was just wondering if this would fit.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Truck-Mopar-Bell-Housing-Small-Block-P435-Trans-318-360-3893728/202868064245
Not 100% sure, different bolt patterns, but the inner bolt pattern might be the same as my inner. Here is the bell housing I got for my 73 project, 5.7 Hemi with a a833.
I don't have a flywheel or the clutch yet. Thinking about going hydraulic.
Thanks. Do u have a part number off that bellhousing. Im also going with a hydraulic clutch setup. Im waiting on my a833 tranny
Only numbers on it is the ones you see on the picture, maybe the part No is the one with the Chrysler star, its sandblasted so I cant read it at all.
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 12, 2020, 01:59:29 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on February 12, 2020, 05:59:10 AM
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 12, 2020, 01:50:29 AM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on February 11, 2020, 04:35:15 PM
Quick question. Im going to be using A a833 tranny in my gen 3 swap. I did read u can use any small block bellhousing. Does that include truck bellhousing?? I was just wondering if this would fit.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Truck-Mopar-Bell-Housing-Small-Block-P435-Trans-318-360-3893728/202868064245
Not 100% sure, different bolt patterns, but the inner bolt pattern might be the same as my inner. Here is the bell housing I got for my 73 project, 5.7 Hemi with a a833.
I don't have a flywheel or the clutch yet. Thinking about going hydraulic.
Thanks. Do u have a part number off that bellhousing. Im also going with a hydraulic clutch setup. Im waiting on my a833 tranny
Only numbers on it is the ones you see on the picture, maybe the part No is the one with the Chrysler star, its sandblasted so I cant read it at all.
ok thanks again
Just got in my Speedway Universal Gen III 5.7 Hemi Engine Weld-In Motor Mounts. Im just wondering has anybody install them before??
I bought Schumacher conversion mounts for when I finally get around to my swap.
Didn't know SpeedWay had those, interested in how they work for you.
Quote from: Katfish on March 08, 2020, 01:12:33 PM
I bought Schumacher conversion mounts for when I finally get around to my swap.
Didn't know SpeedWay had those, interested in how they work for you.
Yeah i think they just released them this year. Their the weld in type.
Just got my bellhousing i guess for a reasonable price 281 shipped.
Not bad, with shipping that seams reasonable enough. :bigthumb:
Quote from: JS29 on March 13, 2020, 02:53:47 PM
Not bad, with shipping that seams reasonable enough. :bigthumb:
Yes indeed. I want to get some grade 8 bolts from the hardware store I just want to know how long does the bolt have to be.
Tranny came in today. She is comig along
FYI maximum strength is reached at 1 to 1.5 length of a given diameter. Fine threads, hardened steel and grade 8 products are close to 1 to 1. Anything less such as aluminum should be around the 1.5 length to diameter.
Hi im just wondering if anybody knows how much do u have to shave off the input shaft on the a833 tranny so it will fit in a 5.7 hemi?
:popcorn:
I'm planning to do the same (833 behind a 5.7) and saved the info on this post (below) from Blake at DIY Hemi. He says 7/8" and has a lot of good additional info. Can't recall where I got this from, but Blake is on the site sometimes.
I put an 833 behind my 5.7 and have a Lakewood bellhousing to run a tremec 5 speed. The positives about the 833. 1) A direct swap and easy to find 2) Custom driveshaft not necessary 3) Easy to rebuild 4) Plethora of clutch options 5) manual and hydraulic clutch options 6) fairly lightweight 7) several bellhousing options, including SFI approved American Powertrain sells the correct flywheel for this swap and I was able to get it for 260 shipped to my door. It uses the standard old school 10.5" clutch bolt pattern and there are worlds of clutches available. A little inside scoop, it's a typical Chrysler 8 bolt 10.5" flywheel that some companies pretend is something special. I'm pretty sure it's made by McLeod based on packaging. I'm running a Ram power grip clutch with manual Z bar and timken throw out bearing. Hydraulic throw out is better, but I had everything for the manual setup, so I'm doing that for now. You will need the pilot bearing from a 99ish Dakota V8 with manual transmission (will get the part number). The starter from a 2005 2500 HD Hemi Ram truck fits tighter and is nicer than any aftermarket mini starter. I'll get you a number for that too. You will also need to cut 7/8" off the top of your input shaft. Remember to check your bellhousing runout. Tolerances should be no more than 0.006 total in any direction. I had to order offset dowels to achieve this while using a factory 1970 833 bellhousing. The dowels are cheap and worth the time to set it right. I also used all ARP bolts for the swap. Chrysler small block bellhousing bolt kit , Chevrolet pressure plate bolt kit and 5.7/6.1 flywheel crank bolt kit
Quote from: b5cuda on March 30, 2020, 06:42:50 AM
I'm planning to do the same (833 behind a 5.7) and saved the info on this post (below) from Blake at DIY Hemi. He says 7/8" and has a lot of good additional info. Can't recall where I got this from, but Blake is on the site sometimes.
I put an 833 behind my 5.7 and have a Lakewood bellhousing to run a tremec 5 speed. The positives about the 833. 1) A direct swap and easy to find 2) Custom driveshaft not necessary 3) Easy to rebuild 4) Plethora of clutch options 5) manual and hydraulic clutch options 6) fairly lightweight 7) several bellhousing options, including SFI approved American Powertrain sells the correct flywheel for this swap and I was able to get it for 260 shipped to my door. It uses the standard old school 10.5" clutch bolt pattern and there are worlds of clutches available. A little inside scoop, it's a typical Chrysler 8 bolt 10.5" flywheel that some companies pretend is something special. I'm pretty sure it's made by McLeod based on packaging. I'm running a Ram power grip clutch with manual Z bar and timken throw out bearing. Hydraulic throw out is better, but I had everything for the manual setup, so I'm doing that for now. You will need the pilot bearing from a 99ish Dakota V8 with manual transmission (will get the part number). The starter from a 2005 2500 HD Hemi Ram truck fits tighter and is nicer than any aftermarket mini starter. I'll get you a number for that too. You will also need to cut 7/8" off the top of your input shaft. Remember to check your bellhousing runout. Tolerances should be no more than 0.006 total in any direction. I had to order offset dowels to achieve this while using a factory 1970 833 bellhousing. The dowels are cheap and worth the time to set it right. I also used all ARP bolts for the swap. Chrysler small block bellhousing bolt kit , Chevrolet pressure plate bolt kit and 5.7/6.1 flywheel crank bolt kit
Thanks for the info really appreciated it. :cheers:
Was this the pilot bearing you're talking about i need.https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/
I haven't bought one yet so can't confirm, but I've been told to order the pilot bearing for a '96 Ram with 5.9 motor.
Its this one https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mopar,53009180AB,clutch+pilot+bearing,1964
Thanks - you're a few steps ahead of me, let me know how it goes!
Quote from: b5cuda on March 30, 2020, 01:11:48 PM
Thanks - you're a few steps ahead of me, let me know how it goes!
Sure no problem
Quick question im putting together the shifter and was wondering do the shifter plate go a specific way?? Do u put any lock tight on the bolts that go thru shifter bracket plate??
Lock tight might be a good idea, the way i abuse my shifter i would use removable lock tight. :alan2cents:
Yes: Locktite them and do not overtorque them as that can cause shifter bind. Two levers are in the wrong spot and when you put the reverse lever on, point it up.
Thanks guys
I agree with Sheldon the levers with 2 holes are the 1-2 & 3-4 levers , the single hole is the reverse one & all 3 point up unless you are using the A833 OD version , I believe the dog leg lever goes on the front to clear the shorter 1-2 rod as well
The shifter mount plate only fits one way & you have it right & yes use locktite
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 18, 2020, 07:49:52 AM
I agree with Sheldon the levers with 2 holes are the 1-2 & 3-4 levers , the single hole is the reverse one & all 3 point up unless you are using the A833 OD version , I believe the dog leg lever goes on the front to clear the shorter 1-2 rod as well
The shifter mount plate only fits one way & you have it right & yes use locktite
Thanks. Its my first time messing with this type of tranny
If you haven't done it yet. Now might be a good time to disassemble your shifter, clear the plates and reassembly, especially if it hasn't been done in the past 50 years. That original lube used at the factory can get pretty solidified and loose it's lubrication abilities. Not that hard to do. I have pics of when I did mine. If you need them let me know and I'll post them. :bigthumb:
Quote from: usraptor on April 18, 2020, 04:41:04 PM
If you haven't done it yet. Now might be a good time to disassemble your shifter, clear the plates and reassembly, especially if it hasn't been done in the past 50 years. That original lube used at the factory can get pretty solidified and loose it's lubrication abilities. Not that hard to do. I have pics of when I did mine. If you need them let me know and I'll post them. :bigthumb:
i dont think it has been done. Sure post those pics it will be a big help
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on April 18, 2020, 05:51:28 PM
Quote from: usraptor on April 18, 2020, 04:41:04 PM
If you haven't done it yet. Now might be a good time to disassemble your shifter, clear the plates and reassembly, especially if it hasn't been done in the past 50 years. That original lube used at the factory can get pretty solidified and loose it's lubrication abilities. Not that hard to do. I have pics of when I did mine. If you need them let me know and I'll post them. :bigthumb:
i dont think it has been done. Sure post those pics it will be a big help
Go look at Youtube videos and learn.
Thanks
That video is probably the best instruction you can get. If you're like me, it's easier to visualize and learn than just read about it. My advice would be to take numerous pictures of your shift assembly from every possible angle so that in case you forget or have a question about how something fits, you can go back and refer back at your pics. The other thing is as you take it apart, lay the pieces in the sequence they came out and in the proper orientation to the rest of the parts; ie side to side or back to back or front to front. The first pic below is of my shifter before disassembly and cleaning. The second shows the various shims/parts, still dirty, laid out as they came out of the shifter and orientated to each other as they came out. Unfortunately, I didn't get any pics of the shims/parts after they were cleaned and re-lubed. However, I did take several pics of the assembled and cleaned shifter from various angles showing how it went back together. Just take you time. It's not that hard as long as you don't rush it and follow these simple rules. Good luck. :bigthumb:
Little update I installed my master cylinder,hydraulic clutch master cylinder and im also making a bracket for my hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.
Very nice. That's going to look very clean under the hood when you're done. :twothumbsup:
Quote from: usraptor on May 23, 2020, 03:10:21 PM
Very nice. That's going to look very clean under the hood when you're done. :twothumbsup:
Thanks. I had to get another master cylinder due to that one being a shallow bore master cylinder.
Well i finished plumbing the front brake lines and painted the cailpers.
I was planning on building my own bracket for my hydraulic clutch master cylinder but i found this bracket a guy built on for A body .com. So I bought 1 and install it. It works fines but i just curious has anybody used the hole thats in the middle of the clutch pedal?? Thats what im using.
So im rebuilding the rear suspension and cleaning up the rear axle to paint. I have a question since im doing the gen 3 hemi is the part in the fourth pic needed and whats the purpose of it?
I will tell you, I didn't think it was when I first put mine together. But now, mine is back in my car as part of my carbon canister/tank venting system. I tried venting my tank to atmosphere above my gas cap, but just ended up with fuel down the side of my car and fuel smells in the garage. Didn't think I needed the charcoal canister/evap system, but, yeah, I did. Maybe you can figure something else out, but this worked for me.
That is an expansion tank for the fumes. The 4 lines go to each of the 4 corners inside your tank. This to compensate for splash plugging up any one or two during driving.
If splash makes it's way up the line, it will just drain back. The 1/4 diameter line for venting runs all the way to front engine bay to charcoal canister. Fumes are then drawn into carb from there.
You could eliminate it as noted but will need vented gas cap. Same cap that is prone to leave gas running down quarter. Along with smell. I have removed my charcoal canister. Needed the room. The line that goes all the way up front is not full solid. There is a rubber line connecting front to rear located inside front frame rail. I made a new line that routs I to the outer wheel housing and goes upwards to top of fender inside. Then curves 180° downward. The open end is then capped off with just a fuel filter to keep debris out. With this setup I have not experienced any real fuel smell above what is normal from carb.
Other options are early versions that others can chime in with specifics for options.
Quote from: JpRngr on June 21, 2020, 05:07:19 PM
I will tell you, I didn't think it was when I first put mine together. But now, mine is back in my car as part of my carbon canister/tank venting system. I tried venting my tank to atmosphere above my gas cap, but just ended up with fuel down the side of my car and fuel smells in the garage. Didn't think I needed the charcoal canister/evap system, but, yeah, I did. Maybe you can figure something else out, but this worked for me.
ok thanks
I have a quick question. So i was doing some research on my rear end.I was reading that the centersections that have a case # ending in 741 is least desirable due to its small diameter pinion bearing. I took the centersections and it shows i have 3.55 Gear ratio is it a bad combo due to me have a 741 case#??
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 12, 2020, 08:48:27 PM
I was planning on building my own bracket for my hydraulic clutch master cylinder but i found this bracket a guy built on for A body .com. So I bought 1 and install it. It works fines but i just curious has anybody used the hole thats in the middle of the clutch pedal?? Thats what im using.
You may find that mounting your clutch rod too low will make it very difficult to push the pedal down. You need to check pedal ratio. Off the top of my head I think it needs to be around 6 to 1. Mine worked best after I knocked the pin out from the pedal where the mechanical linkage connects, and used that hole...It will also need to be a straight shot into the master cyl. to keep it from wearing prematurely...
Quote from: JonH on June 22, 2020, 05:26:01 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on June 12, 2020, 08:48:27 PM
I was planning on building my own bracket for my hydraulic clutch master cylinder but i found this bracket a guy built on for A body .com. So I bought 1 and install it. It works fines but i just curious has anybody used the hole thats in the middle of the clutch pedal?? Thats what im using.
You may find that mounting your clutch rod too low will make it very difficult to push the pedal down. You need to check pedal ratio. Off the top of my head I think it needs to be around 6 to 1. Mine worked best after I knocked the pin out from the pedal where the mechanical linkage connects, and used that hole...It will also need to be a straight shot into the master cyl. to keep it from wearing prematurely...
Thanks im going to switch it
Nothing wrong with a 741 case. The difference is the smaller stem on the pinion and I don't see them breaking.
3:55 gear is what I'm gonna use with my Hemi swap also.
Thank's guys
Another quick question. This tranny crossmember that came with the car for some reason all 4 bolts holes are not lining up. Only the 2 inner ones are. So my question is it ok just to have 2 bolts bolted up or should I drill the other 2 outer bolt holes out and install all 4 bolts?
My guess would be that is not an e body crossmember. Others on here with more knowledge will know what it might fit. (b body maybe) Remember that it is also structural, so I would use all 4 holes. I wouldn't be inclined to drill them I would simply look for the correct e body crossmember... :alan2cents:
Quote from: JonH on June 26, 2020, 11:57:04 AM
My guess would be that is not an e body crossmember. Others on here with more knowledge will know what it might fit. (b body maybe) Remember that it is also structural, so I would use all 4 holes. I wouldn't be inclined to drill them I would simply look for the correct e body crossmember... :alan2cents:
Thanks guess they mislabeled it then because it did say 70 cuda crossmember. No drivetrain going this weekend then
That would not stop me from installing the drive train. I would bolt it all in even with just 2 bolts. I just would not be driving it too hard that way. You can always swap in the correct 1 when you get it...
Quote from: JonH on June 26, 2020, 12:48:32 PM
That would not stop me from installing the drive train. I would bolt it all in even with just 2 bolts. I just would not be driving it too hard that way. You can always swap in the correct 1 when you get it...
This I agree with.
Bolt it in and go lightly. Possibly just slot the crossmember holes to allow all 4 connections. If welder is available you could weld on washers to outside faces that align with car holes. This would keep location proper.
Those are significantly off. I would definitely source a factory cross member to replace it though. Above comment is just a bandaid.
Hopefully... the misalignment is not the floor being collapsed.
Hence reason I noted factory part as replacement. Not an aftermarket piece.
Quote from: YellowThumper on June 26, 2020, 01:39:16 PM
Quote from: JonH on June 26, 2020, 12:48:32 PM
That would not stop me from installing the drive train. I would bolt it all in even with just 2 bolts. I just would not be driving it too hard that way. You can always swap in the correct 1 when you get it...
This I agree with.
Bolt it in and go lightly. Possibly just slot the crossmember holes to allow all 4 connections. If welder is available you could weld on washers to outside faces that align with car holes. This would keep location proper.
Those are significantly off. I would definitely source a factory cross member to replace it though. Above comment is just a bandaid.
Hopefully... the misalignment is not the floor being collapsed.
Hence reason I noted factory part as replacement. Not an aftermarket piece.
I don't think the floor collapsed. The crossmember came as a spare and was not installed on the car
As im waiting for parts and some money. I decided to remove the doors skins and i was just wondering if anybody has used the cuda doors skins? Does the door skins cover the inner part of the door which is in the 2nd pic? I wasnt too sure since i cant see the other of the door skins and their's no pics
Today i change the rear main seal,install the flywheel,clutch kit and the starter
I was just wondering doesn't anybody know where I can get the rear sway bar bushings and end link for a 74 cuda?? I weld a stud in where the spot welds go on the rear sway bar for easy replacement
Painting the door shell with some corroseal came out nice.
Well today i was going to install my passenger side door window due to my door falling and breaking the glass. I got the door window hardware kit and cant seem figured out where things go and im missing bolts that go thru the hard plastic clip thing which is in pic 2
I am literally lost on where these window hardware go for the window. One my driver side window has stuff different than what in my door window hardware. I figured out the orange hardware goes into the roller on the channel but im too sure is something is suppose to go in between the orange roller?
I am not sure te rear sway bar busins are available , likely you will need to find a similar busin & make it fit , Poly may be a better option
That was more difficult than I thought, can't get my phone in there to get good shots, too tight. This is what I could get to, not much help maybe...
I'll leave the door side off for now, let me know if you need any more pict.
Thanks for the pics. Do you think u could get a pictures of the front roller of the door
Maybe this will help. From the dodge service, manual.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on July 29, 2020, 07:13:04 AM
Thanks for the pics. Do you think u could get a pictures of the front roller of the door
I'll try now, in a minute!
Only from the outside, I can slide the iPhone in behind the window but the focus is not that short so it just becomes a blur.
Thanks again. Im trying to figure out what type of bolt goes on this one. Here is a picture hopefully this will help
Aha, I see, It's not a bolt, looks like a rivet?
I can not take a pict of the back of that though, but it dosen't feel like a nut either...
The rear one is a bolt, has a 1/2" head.
Ok thanks again.
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 29, 2020, 08:59:54 AM
Aha, I see, It's not a bolt, looks like a rivet?
I can not take a pict of the back of that though, but it dosen't feel like a nut either...
The rear one is a bolt, has a 1/2" head.
It's a screw.
Thanks for all the helps guys. I got the doors skins on but didn't finish due to getting a headache from hammering and dolling around the edge. These are some AMD door skins I got.I was just wondering can I just sand it down with some 400 grit and paint some 2k primer on it and then just paint it the body color?
Quick question what kinda bolt go thru these holes on the door pillar? I see their's no thread in there. Its been so long i forgot lol
The threads are in the door hinge, for the first pict and those bolts go in from the inside, the upper hinge....I don't recall right now, not from the inside I think.
Quote from: soundcontrol on August 06, 2020, 11:32:46 PM
The threads are in the door hinge, for the first pict and those bolts go in from the inside, the upper hinge....I don't recall right now, not from the inside I think.
thanks
Got my radiator and broken electric fans in today. A new fan is on its way. They both look like they belong their just got to fab up a bracket for it. 05-08 charger radiator and electric fans
Quick question anybody ever had a hard time installing a a833 tranny in a gen 3 hemi. I got the input shaft and it wouldn't go in any further so I got the bell housing close to the engine block and kinda forced it in some more but its still not flushed.
Not personally but try and narrow issue down. Loosen bolts to allow it to float rearward or remove trans and see if the bellhousing will close up. If it does, that rules out housing.
Remove housing and install trans to see if it will go in far enough to measure less distance than thickness of bell housing.
Off the cuff I will surmise the hole in rear of crank is not deep enough for the input shaft requirement.
Good luck.
Thanks ill try again tomorrow with my brother. I was thinking of copying the alignment tool since it fits
I've loosened off the pressure plate bolts to allow the clutch to move when installing my 833. Makes install easier.
Don't forget to snug them back down though....
Thanks guys. Got it to go back in looks like i had to shave a little bit more off the input shaft.
Great to hear
What clutch and flywheel did you get?
I still have not bought those parts for my 73 project with a 5.7 / 833a.
Here is the pressure plate bolts
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-130-2201
Here is the clutch kit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-75109
Here is the flywheel
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=FW400
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 16, 2020, 05:32:50 AM
Here is the pressure plate bolts
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-130-2201
Here is the clutch kit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-75109
Here is the flywheel
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=FW400
Thanks! :thankyou:
Hi need some help again on installing these linkage rod. Is it easier to install the linkage while engine and tranny is out of the car or when its in the car?
Adjust it before installing in car. You will have to pull it off before installing the trans into the car though.
Out... but put the trans crossmember on the trans first, assuming you are putting the engine/trans in from the bottom..
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 16, 2020, 04:29:37 PM
Adjust it before installing in car. You will have to pull it off before installing the trans into the car though.
Thanks how do you go about adjusting them. First time working with a tranny with external linkage
Quote from: JonH on August 16, 2020, 04:30:17 PM
Out... but put the trans crossmember on the trans first, assuming you are putting the engine/trans in from the bottom..
Im putting the engine in the old school way using a engine hoist
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 16, 2020, 04:36:43 PM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 16, 2020, 04:29:37 PM
Adjust it before installing in car. You will have to pull it off before installing the trans into the car though.
Thanks how do you go about adjusting them. First time working with a tranny with external linkage
With shifter installed. There is a hole thru all the arms. When in neutral they all line up. Put a pin in to keep them located. Pin, bolt, allen wrench can work also. Ensure all trans levers are in neutral. Then adjust till post from bars drop in freely to hole on bracket. Prior to disassembly, you can mark the positions. Marker, wrap with tape, etc... I have used zip ties fore and shaft also. Basically whatever you have on hand.
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 16, 2020, 06:15:45 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 16, 2020, 04:36:43 PM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 16, 2020, 04:29:37 PM
Adjust it before installing in car. You will have to pull it off before installing the trans into the car though.
Thanks how do you go about adjusting them. First time working with a tranny with external linkage
With shifter installed. There is a hole thru all the arms. When in neutral they all line up. Put a pin in to keep them located. Pin, bolt, allen wrench can work also. Ensure all trans levers are in neutral. Then adjust till post from bars drop in freely to hole on bracket. Prior to disassembly, you can mark the positions. Marker, wrap with tape, etc... I have used zip ties fore and aft also. Basically whatever you have on hand.
Thanks
Need some help on putting these rods on. These linkage rod are for 73-74 cuda and im lost on how to install the last 2.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 17, 2020, 06:56:19 AM
Need some help on putting these rods on. These linkage rod are for 73-74 cuda and im lost on how to install the last 2.
If no one helps today a can give you pics of my setup. Same rods as yours. Will be about 12 hours though.
The long large loop one is I believe reverse. Loop is towards rear and loops under trans mount crossmember. Perfect placement (sarcasm) for speed bump contact. Roll over a speed bump at normal speed and that is where car squats when coming down. It will become a familiar sound...
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 17, 2020, 08:00:41 AM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on August 17, 2020, 06:56:19 AM
Need some help on putting these rods on. These linkage rod are for 73-74 cuda and im lost on how to install the last 2.
If no one helps today a can give you pics of my setup. Same rods as yours. Will be about 12 hours though.
The long large loop one is I believe reverse. Loop is towards rear and loops under trans mount crossmember. Perfect placement (sarcasm) for speed bump contact. Roll over a speed bump at normal speed and that is where car squats when coming down. It will become a familiar sound...
Thanks. I think i might have to wrong crossmember because the reverse rod wont bolt up to the shifter. Another question is it only a clip that hold the shitfer rod in??
Here is a pic from Brewer's website.
Washers and specific style clips.
turn the reverse rod around...large bend under the crossmember. You need bushings in there as well. Go to Brewers web site to find parts you may need
Quote from: JonH on August 17, 2020, 09:01:28 AM
turn the reverse rod around...large bend under the crossmember. You need bushings in there as well. Go to Brewers web site to find parts you may need
Pic above from JonH reverse lever is early style that does not go under crossmember. Follow his setup. But know you will have the large sweep bend instead. End result to trans is the same.
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 17, 2020, 09:29:51 AM
Quote from: JonH on August 17, 2020, 09:01:28 AM
turn the reverse rod around...large bend under the crossmember. You need bushings in there as well. Go to Brewers web site to find parts you may need
Pic above from JonH reverse lever is early style that does not go under crossmember. Follow his setup. But know you will have the large sweep bend instead. End result to trans is the same.
That is correct it is a early style
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 17, 2020, 08:37:32 AM
Here is a pic from Brewer's website.
Washers and specific style clips.
Thanks going to have to put a order in for those
Well it looks like the speedway universal gen III 5.7 hemi engine weld-In motor mounts will not work. I was trying to save some money on the motor mount which backfired :bricks:. The driver side will fit perfectly but the passenger side is offset
These cars are nothing but a pain and money pits but man they are fun to drive when you are done. :bradsthumb:
Quote from: nsmall on August 17, 2020, 09:47:03 PM
These cars are nothing but a pain and money pits but man they are fun to drive when you are done. :bradsthumb:
Thats a fact. The cuda is a guinea pig for the gen 3 hemi swap. Should be smooth on my 68 charger since its going to be a auto
The gen 3 hemi is in :banana:
This is the motor mount u will need if using a qa1 k member https://www.manciniracing.com/mrebugeniiiadd.html
:cooldance: :ohyeah:
Nice progress! That must feel good! :bravo:
Yes it is. Just need to get the cylinder head done,driveshaft and few other things
Painted my doors with epoxy primer today.
OHHH and a Charger too, 68 no less! I'm envious! :bradsthumb:
Quote from: Brads70 on August 27, 2020, 01:54:10 PM
OHHH and a Charger too, 68 no less! I'm envious! :bradsthumb:
68 my favorite year for the charger. She next in line after the cuda
Put the old cylinder heads and upper intake manifold on just to see how it would look in the engine bay. I got some remanufactured cylinder heads coming.
Got my remanufacture 5.7 hemi heads today for 550 and clean the piston heads. Just waiting on my head gasket kit to come this Thursday so I can start putting the engine back together.
Testing fitting the doors on my cuda before i paint them. With help of my brother.
3 years in the making. I also need some help on Installing the front grill. Are their any instructions on it??
Looking good, soon that beast will be making some noise! :woohoo: :burnout:
Quote from: Brads70 on September 11, 2020, 07:15:53 PM
Looking good, soon that beast will be making some noise! :woohoo: :burnout:
Yes indeed :stayinlane:
I love it, I cant see the rear quarters did you change the markers on the rear quarters?
Quote from: dmastr3665 on September 11, 2020, 08:03:05 PM
I love it, I cant see the rear quarters did you change the markers on the rear quarters?
Yes I did. I lucky found some patch panels on ebay for cheap
At cecil racetrack in md and saw these 2
Engine is assembled now time to tackle the harness.
Nice build i'm in the MD area
Quote from: Poolshark314 on September 16, 2020, 05:29:33 PM
Nice build i'm in the MD area
Thanks what part of MD? im in VA
Got a quick question on installing a 71 cuda grill. Does one of those bolt retainer clip go up in the middle of the header. Pic kinda blurry.
Quick question did anybody else cut a hole in the back of their fender so they can plug in their headlights?? The connector wont fit with the headlight plugged in
Installed the manciniracing 45 Degree Oil Filter Adapter
I've never had to cut holes to fit factory wiring, but you gotta do what you gotta do to make it fit.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on September 26, 2020, 10:09:04 PM
Quick question did anybody else cut a hole in the back of their fender so they can plug in their headlights?? The connector wont fit with the headlight plugged in
Quote from: Cuda Cody on September 30, 2020, 10:58:23 PM
I've never had to cut holes to fit factory wiring, but you gotta do what you gotta do to make it fit.
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on September 26, 2020, 10:09:04 PM
Quick question did anybody else cut a hole in the back of their fender so they can plug in their headlights?? The connector wont fit with the headlight plugged in
Im rewiring the car. The head light plug seem to be hitting the back of the headlight housing. I might have to adjust the headlights out further first before I cut or drill any holes.
Change the headlight plugs to factory ones, or are the headlights not stock?
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on October 01, 2020, 07:03:06 AM
Change the headlight plugs to factory ones, or are the headlights not stock?
The headlights and harness is not factory.
Got the engine all together. Thanks to diyhemi
Learned an expensive lesson today and that is if you use Mancini racing
Gen3 Hemi Engine Mounting Bracket Kit Stock K-Frame u can only use the expensive TTI61HC HEADER which sucks. Has anybody used Doug's header with these motor mounts since im not using a stock h-frame im using a qa1 k-member??
Cool thread keep it going !
Working on rewiring the whole car using kwik wiring harness
Looks simple :o :looney: :haha:
Quote from: anlauto on October 26, 2020, 05:59:15 AM
Looks simple :o :looney: :haha:
yea she is coming along. Almost done with the interior wiring
I got my tti header it seem like im having a hard time getting the driver side header on. Its hitting the steering gear box. I called tti and they said i might have to unbolt the motor mount and try it that way. Has anybody had this issue.
I called tti and they told me to unbolt the engine from the motor mount and jack the engine up which I did and it worked
I painted my headers white to make my engine bay stand out a bit. I always like white headers on gasser. I used alvin high temperature spray paint white.
Installed my headers today.
Got my front windshield install today. Its looking more and more like a car again. I have another question can some decode my 68 charger fender tag??
Quote from: Cuda Cody on July 06, 2017, 10:19:26 AM
Radiator looks (by the number) to be a 1971. The other part looks to be a filler panel for a bumper? :notsure:
It is the 5mph bumper insert! This awesome standard feature came in 73 and 74 on E bodies. Who says the later year cars aren't as cool!
In all seriousness though, losing the front and rear 5mph inserts is about a 30lb weight loss. You'll need some 70-72 brackets for it to look right if you don't run the inserts (available from AMD if you can't locate or don't have them). You'll have an unsightly gap between the grill and bumper in front and all the way across the back. Especially if you don't have the filler strips, which are difficult to find at all, let alone in good shape (they are not being reproduced to my knowledge).
Cool project!
Quote from: bcudachris on December 30, 2020, 06:40:02 PM
Quote from: Cuda Cody on July 06, 2017, 10:19:26 AM
Radiator looks (by the number) to be a 1971. The other part looks to be a filler panel for a bumper? :notsure:
It is the 5mph bumper insert! This awesome standard feature came in 73 and 74 on E bodies. Who says the later year cars aren't as cool!
In all seriousness though, losing the front and rear 5mph inserts is about a 30lb weight loss. You'll need some 70-72 brackets for it to look right if you don't run the inserts (available from AMD if you can't locate or don't have them). You'll have an unsightly gap between the grill and bumper in front and all the way across the back. Especially if you don't have the filler strips, which are difficult to find at all, let alone in good shape (they are not being reproduced to my knowledge).
Cool project!
Thanks for the information. I do have the strips which are in excellent condition. Im not going to install the 5 mpj bumper insert since its extra weight.
Well today I got my front parking lights man they were expensive but I found a good deal 388$ shipped. My question is what type not hardware do u need to install them??
I got the car wired up and think my turn signal switch is bad. When i turn on the front left turn signal the left rear turn signal does work even my hazard dont work properly. So im just going to replace the ignition switch also since im in their.
Getting close to getting the car running. I lost all power to my fuse block due to a bad starter solenoid. The starter solenoid was stuck open and keep cranking over the engine and blow the bus on the fuse block. Got a new starter solenoid and that stopped the engine from cranking over by itself. Now when I get home i can see which bus is blown on the fuse block.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CL2ynX7Dho2/?hl=en
Well i got my shifter linkage hooked up and almost finished making the seat track for passenger side. Just need to bleed the clutch and hopefully i can drive it out the garage for the first time under its own power.
:banana:.
It's getting close!!! :stayinlane:
Hey haven't seen you around here lately? Hope your doing OK? How's your cars coming along?
@Cuda70-74 (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda70-74_694)
:burnout:
Quote from: Brads70 on March 14, 2022, 04:11:14 PM
Hey haven't seen you around here lately? Hope your doing OK? How's your cars coming along? @Cuda70-74 (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda70-74_694)
Hey thanks for checking up. Everything is coming along well. Waiting for the weather to break so i can get back to making the gas pedal bracket
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on March 14, 2022, 04:13:55 PM
:burnout:Quote from: Brads70 on March 14, 2022, 04:11:14 PM
Hey haven't seen you around here lately? Hope your doing OK? How's your cars coming along? @Cuda70-74 (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda70-74_694)
Hey thanks for checking up. Everything is coming along well. Waiting for the weather to break so i can get back to making the gas pedal bracket
I hear that! I'm getting anxious to get back to the Javelin also! We have about 8" of snow left in the yard but looking at this weeks weather forecast, looks like it should be gone by the weekend!
Quote from: Brads70 on March 14, 2022, 04:16:28 PM
Quote from: Cuda70-74 on March 14, 2022, 04:13:55 PM
:burnout:Quote from: Brads70 on March 14, 2022, 04:11:14 PM
Hey haven't seen you around here lately? Hope your doing OK? How's your cars coming along? @Cuda70-74 (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda70-74_694)
Hey thanks for checking up. Everything is coming along well. Waiting for the weather to break so i can get back to making the gas pedal bracket
I hear that! I'm getting anxious to get back to the Javelin also! We have about 8" of snow left in the yard but looking at this weeks weather forecast, looks like it should be gone by the weekend!
yea we had a little bs snow last Saturday
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CbAmW7qjiPy/?utm_medium=copy_link
Ah man that ain't a snow storm! We would call that a heavy frost up here! :D
I like the 69 Mustang is that yours also? :bradsthumb:
Nice "herd" you have going on in your driveway! I'm envious! Any "car guy" couldn't pass by your place without smiling! :bigthumb:
Quote from: Brads70 on March 15, 2022, 08:02:16 AM
Ah man that ain't a snow storm! We would call that a heavy frost up here! :D
I like the 69 Mustang is that yours also? :bradsthumb:
Nice "herd" you have going on in your driveway! I'm envious! Any "car guy" couldn't pass by your place without smiling! :bigthumb:
😆 a lil snow dusting. Thanks and yea the 69 is mines. I have owned it for almost 10 years now. Mustang are what got me into classic cars.
Any more progress on the Cuda'? I've been checking frequently. I just purchased a 71 barracuda and will be doing a lot of what you have done. Thanks :cheers:
TTT. :popcorn:
Quote from: whitsend on August 09, 2022, 04:24:46 AM
Any more progress on the Cuda'? I've been checking frequently. I just purchased a 71 barracuda and will be doing a lot of what you have done. Thanks :cheers:
Nice I just installed the door windows. I got side tracked by my other projects like my 92 mustang coupe with an ecoboost swap from 2017 mustang and my 68 charger bodywork. Plus I want to do a coyote swap in my 69 mustang
Understood. You are one busy guy. Looking forward to seeing more. Thanks!
Quote from: whitsend on September 29, 2023, 04:15:54 PMUnderstood. You are one busy guy. Looking forward to seeing more. Thanks!
I'm still trying to figure out why the car will crank up but won't start. The car is dam near finished just got to clean up the wiring harness and get new 70-72 front bumper bracket since my 74 cuda won't work with my 71 cuda grill.
:bigthumb: